I installed some raised-panel wainscoting in our sun room, and wanted to get a quality HVLP to paint the trim in place. After doing a significant amount of research I figured the Fuji Semi-PRO 2 was the best bang for the buck.

I used it to spray Zinsser BIN on all my molding and panels prior to installation, and the Fuji handled the BIN like a champ. But, IMO that's not saying much, since virtually any HVLP can handle BIN just fine.

The real test came when I was spraying Benjamin Moore Impervo Satin, which is extremely thick. I've tried in the past using cheaper HVLP systems (Wagner and such) with Impervo, and the finish quality was horrid. So, yesterday I took a shot with the Fuji. I EVENTUALLY was able to get a good finish, but that was after approximately 2 hours of trial and error out in the garage. In fact, I sprayed about 1.5 cans of Impervo on every piece of scrap MDF I could find (and several old doors I had in the shop).

After much trial and error, here is my procedure for Impervo:

1. Make sure your Impervo is fully mixed;
2. Strain Impervo using old pantyhose into the Fuji cup;
3. Dilute about 15% with paint thinner;
4. Add the appropriate amount of Penetrol based on Penetrol instructions;
5. Test viscosity with included cup until THE ENTIRE CUP runs out in 25 seconds;
6. Assemble Fuji and turn it on;
7. Open air control valve all the way;
8. Turn paint control knob clockwise until it is completely closed;
9. Turn pattern control knob until it is completely vertical;
10. Turn paint control knob counterclockwise 1 full rotation (you can mark it with a sharpie so you have a reference point);
11. Spray a test piece and you'll probably get a fair amount of overspray (and the edges of the pattern won't be fully atomized);
12. Turn pattern control knob about 45 degrees;
13. Spray a test piece, if you are still unhappy with it turn the pattern control knob fully horizontal'
14. You'll probably have to partially close the air control knob at this point.
15. Test again, you should have a fully atomized (albeit pretty small) pattern.

I think having a bigger tip would really help with this application, but I was in a hurry.

I checked my results this morning, and the finish was actually very, very nice. No orange peel, and minimal overspray. The hardest thing for me was seeing where I was painting, since the surface was already white with the BIN.

One note: the small filter that is on the bottom of the metal supply tube (that goes down in the paint) seemed like it was getting clogged as the paint started drying in the can. I seriously considered just taking it off, but after so much trial and error I was reluctant to change anything. But, if you've strained your paint in pantyhose I can't imagine why you'd need a strainer. The strainer is also very hard to get completely clean, since it is not made of metal.

Relatively speaking clean-up is quick with this model. Pour out the paint, fill with some mineral spirits (or whatever is appropriate for your paint), and spray until it runs clear. I did remove the nozzle so I could clean it out properly. Total clean-up time was 5 minutes, tops.

Finally, please be aware of the importance of the paint control knob (which you can think of as the trigger adjustment knob located on the back of the gun). I had it wide open for the first hour or trial and error, and didn't realize that my entire problem was I was feeding too much paint.

Once you've got the settings right for a product do yourself a favor and write them down.

Update 11/11/2014

So I've had this for several months, and have sprayed a ton of water-borne finishes through it (paint, primer, water-borne stains, poly, etc.). I've gotten to where I can set it up, mix the paint (or whatever), paint, and clean-up in about 20 minutes. I painted a bookshelf and kitchen table last weekend in less than 1 hour. This thing really is an excellent value, so I've upped it to 5 stars. Clearly getting some time on it helped quite a bit. IF I HAVE ONE TIP IT IS TO MAKE SURE YOU FULLY CLOSE THE PAINT CONTROL KNOB FULLY BEFORE SPRAYING (when it is close you can't pull the trigger). Then, slowly open it and spray a test piece until you get a nice, wet, smooth finish. I've found I don't need to thin it as much as I used to, and I've found that I typically can get to a perfect patter in less than 1 minute.

One other tip: try to avoid oil-based products if you can. The clean-up takes forever, and honestly I am getting such good results with water-borne paints I don't see the need for oil-based.

In the past have used several different automotive sprayers for finishing furniture and cabinets. I was never completely satisfied with the other sprayers I had used; getting a consistent flawless finish was very tricky. I was ready for a sprayer that would consistently give me a factory type finish and not waste a bunch of paint because of overspray. The Fuji 2202 Semi-Pro 2 HVLP is exactly what I was looking for. It puts out a consistant and smooth flow of paint without a ton of overspray. I also love that it is so customizable. The sprayer I purchased has the paint cup that attaches to the bottom of the spray nozzle . I don't really know what the advantages are of the gravity feed (paint cup on top) verses the paint cup on the bottom, maybe it is just preference. However, if there is a project that would do better with a gravity feed paint cup you can easily upgrade you sprayer by buying the parts to attach it to the top. I also like that you can adjust the amount of paint that comes out, the air pressure and spray fan. You can even purchase different air caps for thicker paints. I purchased a #5 air cap for spraying on primer. A #5 might not be the best choice for final finishes because it lets a lot more paint out and you may end up with orange peal for your final coat. But, it works great for priming because the paint is thicker and it does let more paint out. I always sand after priming. For me it does not matter if the primer finish is orange peal. I am more concerned about getting a nice base coat of primer before I paint my final top coats. The Fuji spray system also comes with a great instruction book, tools you will need for clean up and a viscosity cup. I had to thin the latex primer and paint before I put it in the sprayer. I used the viscosity cup and followed the directions in the instruction book for thinning and it worked great. Lastly, I wish I could say if you buy this sprayer you will always be happy with the finish on everything you paint. But I know from experience that the paint you use is the other half of the equation. I receintly painted our closet built ins with Dunn Edwards Inter-Kote (wood primer) and UltraShield low sheen paint. It is a rock hard finish. Our kitchen cabinets are brand new and factory finished, painted white and I can't tell the difference between the finish on the kitchen cabinets we purchased already painted and our closet built ins that I sprayed white.

I had been using lower priced HVLP systems including spray guns that were advertised as an HVLP system. I had various rates of success but was never satisfied with the end result. I began my search looking for a HVLP system that would produce professional results at a reasonable price. I almost purchased the Earlex HV5500 Spray Station after reading several positive reviews about the product. However, I had also researched Fuji spray systems and at first, thought they would be out of my price range. Looking on Amazon I saw the Fuji 2202 Semi Pro 2 HVLP System was only $100.00 more than the Earlex. I'm glad I spent the extra money and purchased the Fuji System.

I have used the Fuji system to spray General Finishes stain, their exterior acrylic top coat, and their polyurethane topcoat. Each time, the end result was fantastic. A client asked me to build a cabinet door with a glass insert with the stiles and rails painted. I purchased the Aircap Set #6 to spray the latex. I thinned the paint, added Floetrol, and the finish came out great.

I am really impressed by the quality of this product and the finishes it can produce. The gun is easy to clean and maintain. I would highly recommend this system to a friend.

I owned a refinishing company for over 20 years and used a system costing over $1500.00 when I brought it 20 years ago. I retired in 2000 and used the system until it stopped working 3 months ago. I wanted a system I could use as needed without paying a high price. After checking different systems I settled on the Fuji and this system works as well as the $1500.00 one I had. I know it might not hold up for professional work day in and day out but this is a very good system. Glad I brought it.