|Item Weight||6.4 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||2.4 x 7.3 x 8.2 inches|
|Item model number||12724|
|Size||3-inch x 3.54-inch x 5.5-inch|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Type of Bulb||LED|
|Special Features||Z-Wave Lighting, LIMITED LIFETIME, 120 watts|
|Included Components||Ge Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724, Installation Guide, White And Light Almond Paddles|
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724
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- ALEXA COMPATIBLE - REQUIRES AN ALEXA SUPPORTED HUB for voice control with Echo Products (Alexa device and hub sold separately). CANNOT connect directly with ECHO PLUS (Only ZigBee products can connect directly to Echo Plus).
- Requires a Z-Wave certified gateway - Compatible with the following Z-Wave certified Hubs: Pulse, Trane, Wink, Alexa via Samsung SmartThings Hub, Nexia, Honeywell, HomeSeer, Smart Security, Harmony Home Hub Extender, Vera, Connect and Iris. Please Note: Kindly refer the User Manual and the Instructional Video before use.
- The dimmer allows you to wirelessly schedule, control and adjust the brightness of any hard-wired, dimmable light in your home anywhere in the world, at any time of the day. Can be controlled in groups of multiple lights or turned on or off within ambient interior lighting scenes.
- Easily replace any standard in-wall switch with the GE Z-Wave controlled dimmer switch to turn lighting on/off or adjust dim levels with your mobile device or computer using any Z-Wave certified gateway.
- Screw terminal installation provides improved space efficiency when replacing existing switches compared to flying leads. Neutral connection required for installation.
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Add Alexa for voice control
Why does this item need a hub?
A hub is a device this item needs in order to communicate with Alexa devices.
CHOKING HAZARD -- Small parts. Not for children under 3 yrs.
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From the manufacturer
Z-Wave is the world’s largest ecosystem of interoperable smart home products. Z-Wave lighting controls provide an easy-to-install and affordable system to control lighting and small appliances in your home. Add GE Z-Wave lighting controls to a Z-Wave certified gateway to access and control your home from anywhere in the world using your smartphone, tablet or computer as a home automation command center.
Z-Wave In-Wall Smart Dimmer
Wireless Lighting Control Dimmer Switch
Transform any home into a smart home with the GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Control Dimmer Switch. The dimmer switch replaces your current light switch, uses your existing wiring, and provides Z-Wave wireless and in-wall control of overhead lighting. Use the dimmer feature to customize the lighting output and create the perfect ambiance for any room.
- Easily locate the switch in a dark room with the integrated blue LED indicator
- Enables wireless control of indoor and outdoor dimmable CFL, LED, and incandescent lighting
- Includes white and light almond paddles
Control and dim your lights, schedule a timed event or create a custom scene from anywhere in the world, at any time of the day.
Each GE Smart Control repeats the signal up to 100 feet. Adding additional controls extends the range of your Z-Wave network for whole home wireless control.
Adjust brightness level to cut energy costs and extend bulb life. Set the scene for an evening ambiance or a fully lit work space.
Wireless control from smartphones, tablets, PCs and Z-Wave enabled remotes.
Other Great Z-Wave Products from GE
Z-Wave Plug-In Smart Switch
The GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Control Fluorescent Light and Appliance Module provides a Z-Wave enabled outlet for the lamp or appliance that you would like to control and a regular pass-through AC outlet for other electrical appliances. Perfect for plug-in fans, heaters, lamps and more!
Z-Wave In-Wall Smart Outlet
The GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle replaces your current electrical outlet, uses your existing wiring and provides a Z-Wave enabled outlet for the lamp or appliance that you would like to control and a standard pass-through AC outlet for other electrical appliances. The receptacle requires in-wall installation with hardwired connections.
Z-Wave Plug-In Outdoor Smart Switch
The GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Control Outdoor Module control enables wireless control of outdoor applications and is compatible with CFL, LED, incandescent, fluorescent, xenon and halogen lighting. The weather-resistant housing with a protective outlet cover safeguards the outlet from dirt and debris when not in use.
Transform any home into a smart home with the in-wall GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer. The dimmer allows you to wirelessly schedule, control and adjust the brightness of any hard-wired, dimmable light in your home anywhere in the world, at any time of the day. Helping to cut energy costs and keep your home safe, it requires in-wall installation with hardwired connections for full control from smartphones, tablets, PCs and Z-Wave enabled wireless remotes. Take control of your home lighting with GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Controls! Z-Wave Certification ID: ZC08 - 14110010
This product is ALEXA COMPATIBLE however it REQUIRES AN ALEXA SUPPORTED HUB for voice control with Echo Products (Alexa device and hub sold separately). **This product CANNOT connect directly with ECHO PLUS (Only ZigBee products can connect directly to Echo Plus)**
*Newer version is available – GE #14294
From the Manufacturer
Transform any home into a smart home with the GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Control Dimmer Switch. The GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Control Dimmer Switch enables wireless control of on/off and dim functions of hard-wired incandescent lighting. The dimmer switch replaces your current light switch, uses your existing wiring, and provides Z-Wave wireless and in-wall control of overhead lighting. Use the dimmer feature to customize the lighting output and create the perfect ambiance for any room. Providing ultimate flexibility, the GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Control Dimmer Switch allows you to operate the switch by itself or easily integrate the switch with two-way, three-way or four-way wiring configurations by adding the GE Auxiliary switch for Z-Wave. Two-way wiring configuration turns the light or appliance on/off from one location. Three-way wiring configuration turns the light or appliance on/off from two separate locations. Four-way wiring configuration turns the light or appliance on/off from three separate locations. The GE Auxiliary Switch for Z-Wave is required for three-way or four-way installations. The dimmer switch includes an LED indicator light to easily locate the switch in a dark room. Take control of your home lighting with GE Z-Wave Smart Lighting Controls! Z-Wave is the world’s largest ecosystem of interoperable smart home products. Z-Wave lighting controls provide an easy-to-install and affordable system to control lighting and small appliances in your home. Add GE Z-Wave lighting controls to a Z-Wave certified gateway to access and control your home from anywhere in the world using your smartphone, tablet or computer as a home automation command center. Never worry if you accidentally left the lights on because you can turn them off remotely or program your lights to go on/off at specific times. Create customized lighting scenes for any occasion such as a "go to sleep" scene or a "movie night" scene. Give the illusion that someone is home by programming the lights to turn on/off while you are away—perfect for deterring crime and adding additional security!
Top customer reviews
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Installation is a little tricky if you've never messed with swapping out a switch before. The instructions aren't super clear, but if you study them long enough, it eventually makes enough sense. Here's what I had to do:
1.) Turn the light off. Kill the breaker to the switch.
2.) Unscrew the plate and existing switch. Popping the existing wires out of the back of the old switch was the hardest part here.
3.) Pull out the white wires (neutrals) from the back of the box
4.) Unscrew the wire nut off the neutrals. Add in the short neutral wire included in the GE switch box and screw the wire nut back on.
5.) Connect the 4 or 5 wires that are now open to the new switch: line, load, neutral, traveler (only if 3-way config), ground.
6.) Turn breaker on. Check to see you've got a blue LED.
7.) Put your hub in discovery mode. Push the switch once to make it pair.
8.) Turn breaker back off. Screw everything back in and put on a fitting plate. Done!
A couple other notes for people who are totally new to this:
Line = wire coming from the breaker
Load = wire going to the light fixture
Traveler = wire that runs between two (or more) switches that allows you to flip the same light on/off from multiple places. Normally red.
It can be hard to tell which is which between line/load as both of these are usually black. From my experience, the line wire was almost always connected via wire nut in the back of the box while the load wire was just free by itself. The load wire was also generally closer to the traveler wire.
**UPDATE: So I just finished an install of 4 of these in the same gangbox. It was a LOT harder than I expected. Things get immediately more complicated when you're putting in more than 1 of these in the same box. Here's what I ran into:
1.) Each of these switches takes a dedicated ground wire. However, all multi-switch boxes in my house have the ground wire daisy-chained and shared between them. This meant I had to cut the existing ground wire and run separate short ones from a wire nut to each switch. Very annoying. Really wish these things had some way to pass through the ground wire. Almost enough to drop this to 4 stars.
2.) The neutral wire bundle in the back of the box already has 4 in there. That means you can't just cram 4 more neutral wires from these switches into that same wire nut. I had to combine the 4 new neutrals into their own new bundle and then use a short wire that would connect the two wire nut bundles. Also annoying.
3.) Those metal tabs on the sides. The instructions say you "may" need to snap them off when installing multiple switches next to each other. There was no "may" about it for me as there's no way more than one of these things will fit into a box and plate with those tabs. The tabs themselves are not hard to remove as long as you use some large pliers (locking pliers make it easier). I did leave the outside tabs on the outer-most switches, though.
4.) Box space. Oh man. Because of #1 and #2, you end up adding a lot of extra wire into the back of the box. Things get really tight really fast. The majority of my time on this task was getting everything crammed back in. It was so tight that when I would push everything in, the box itself was sliding back deeper into the wall. The short screws I had would never reach to attach the switches to the box. So I went out and bought longer screws, which made it tons easier. I also ran into problems where every time I'd smash stuff in, some random wire in one of those bundles would pop out, and I've have to pull everything out and start over. Endless trips to the breaker and back. At least I hit my fitness tracker step goal.
5.) INSPECT USED UNITS. Closely. Most of the time they're fine, but two of mine were missing the neutral wire in the box (luckily I had extra wire to make my own). One of them had the screw totally broken off on the neutral wire port, so I had to try and rig the wire to stay put. Finally, one of them was actually the older version of the switch that doesn't even take a neutral wire, even though the box it came in had the newer model model # printed on it - that one's obviously getting returned.
But in the end, all 4 switches work, and having them dimmable, networked, automated is glorious. I'm just glad I don't have any more 4-switch boxes.
Overall, the experience has been great, but there are some wrinkles.
1) Sometimes Alexa does not seem to acknowledge the group you have set up, so I have had to go back in twice to re-create groups. But that happened the first month and I do not seem to be having that issue any longer
2) Be aware: These Z-Wave light switches require integration with a smart hub which then interfaces with Alexa. These do not interface directly with Alexa. I use a Wink hub and the integration was pretty quick with only a few hiccups. Not as smooth as I would have liked (I had to move my Wink hub around the house so that it was close enough to each switch when I initiated synchronization. But once the link was established the the Wink hub could be moved back to its original location and would connect with the device without problem.
3) I hardly never touch my light switches any more. I just tell Alexa what to turn on and off (including group settings of turning off all of the main floor lights or all lights in the house before going to bed ... not to mention sleep command which will turn off all lights as well as make sure the front door is locked), however, if you do touch the light switches, be aware of a few points so as to not think they are broken. The lights have a delayed response from when you touch the toggle switch. Push the switch and then wait 1 second for a response (either to turn on or off). If you do more than tap the toggle but hold it down for a second or two, you will only turn on the lights part way. The dimmer will have been activated. You will need to then push the toggle for a few seconds, until you see the light blink, in order to get it to maximum brightness. Read the instructions and play around with the settings a bit to full familiarize yourself with their responses.
Fortunately, I read about the GE 12730 Z-wave fan control. It completely and easily replaced my existing fan speed controls. I worried a bit about pairing it with the Wink hub since the generic dimmer switch option has disappeared from the Wink menus and I didn’t know what suitable replacement Wink have picked, so I used the “Inclusion Mode” under the Wink hub menu. (Hub icon->three dots in the upper right->Z-wave controls->inclusion mode.) The fan speed control paired quickly and showed up as a “light bulb” on the lights menu, meaning pairing this switch as a generic Z-wave light bulb would probably work as well.
The next issue was figuring out how to use the switch. It’s not intuitive enough to figure out without reading the manual. I originally thought that tapping on the top or bottom of the switch would cycle through the speeds and to off. But no, here’s how you do it:
Turn On: tap the top of the switch
Turn Off: tap the bottom of the switch
Speed the fan up: press and hold the top of the switch
Slow down: press and hold the bottom of the switch
In the Wink app, you control the fan by tapping the “bulb” icon associated with it, or sliding your finger from left to right to select slower or faster. It’s easier to set the fan speed on the app than at the wall control since you’ll know exactly where you’re starting and where you’re ending.
If you don't have a wired fan speed control, this is not the device for you.
Most recent customer reviews
Didn't have to purchase another switch plate - it replaced an existing dumb switch :)
low = 30%
medium =...Read more
Work great running off of a Samsung Smartthings hub.Read more