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GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Three-Way On/Off Kit

by GE
3.8 out of 5 stars 200 customer reviews
| 79 answered questions

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  • Easily replace any three-way switch configuration with the GE Z-Wave three-way ON/OFF kit to turn lighting on or off with your mobile device or computer using any Z-Wave certified gateway
  • White lighting control matches most standard wall plates (wall plate not included)
  • Can be controlled in groups of multiple lights or turned on or off within ambient interior lighting scenes
  • Easily locate the switch in a dark room with the integrated blue LED indicator
  • Perfect for hallways and stairs ? controls one light from two separate locations
  • Compatible with any Z-Wave certified gateway, providing remote access from many popular home automation systems and applications (application software not included)
  • Compatible with incandescent, fluorescent, compact fluorescent, xenon, halogen and LED lighting up to 960 watts
  • Screw terminal installation provides improved space efficiency when replacing existing switches compared to flying leads (Neutral connection required for installation) Tech Support:Phone: 800.654.8483

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Product Description

Product Description

Transform any home into a smart home with the GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Three-Way On/Off Kit. The GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Three-Way On/Off Kit enables wireless control of on/off functions of hardwired incandescent, LED, xenon, halogen and fluorescent lighting. The kit includes a primary switch and auxiliary switch for control of one light from two locations. The primary switch includes a blue LED indicator light to easily locate the switch in a dark room. The kit is the ideal setup for lighting stairs, halls and multi-entrance rooms. Take control of your home lighting with GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Controls! Z-Wave is the world’s largest ecosystem of interoperable smart home products. Z-Wave lighting controls provide an easy-to-install and affordable system to control lighting and small appliances in your home. Add GE Z-Wave lighting controls to a Z-Wave certified gateway to access and control your home from anywhere in the world using your smartphone, tablet or computer as a home automation command center. Never worry if you accidentally left the lights on because you can turn them off remotely or program your lights to go on/off at specific times. Create customized lighting scenes for any occasion such as a “go to sleep” scene or a “movie night” scene. Give the illusion that someone is home by programming the lights to turn on/off while you are away—perfect for deterring crime and adding additional security!

From the Manufacturer

The GE Z-Wave 3-Way On/Off Kit enables wireless control of on/off functions of hard-wired incandescent, LED, xenon, halogen and fluorescent lighting. The kit includes a primary switch and auxiliary switch for control of one light to easily locate the switch in a dark room. The kit is the ideal setup for lighting stairs, halls and multi-entrance rooms. It features a gloss white finish that matches modern wall plates.The 120V (Hot or Neutral) wire(s) should not be connected to the traveler circuit. Doing so will damage the units leaving them inoperable.Please refer to the User manual for troubleshooting issues.

Please Note : These switches require neutral wiring for them to function.

Product Information

Technical Details

Part Number 45614
Item Weight 7.2 ounces
Product Dimensions 8.1 x 7.2 x 2.2 inches
Item model number 45614
Size 8.10in. x 7.25in. x 2.25in.
Color White
Item Package Quantity 1
Switch Type 3-way
Switch Style Rocker
Usage personal
Included Components Ge Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Three-Way On/Off Kit, Primary Switch, Auxiliary Switch
Batteries Included? No
Batteries Required? No
Warranty Description PENDING

Technical Specification

Additional Information

ASIN B0035YUOWC
Customer Reviews
3.8 out of 5 stars 200 customer reviews

3.8 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank #115,017 in Home Improvements (See top 100)
#288 in Home Improvement > Electrical > Switches > Wall Switches > Light Switches
Shipping Weight 7.2 ounces
Date First Available January 25, 2010

Warranty & Support

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Customer Questions & Answers

Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

By D. Hollinrake on September 28, 2011
Verified Purchase
Quick Review:

If you're converting your 3-way light switches to z-wave controlled ones but want to use fluorescent bulbs, this is the answer. Installation is easy enough once you understand how the switches and light fixtures are wired together. Get them for around $50 here on Amazon.

Full Review:

I decided to start switching over my home to use z-wave for home automation and needed to find light switches to use around my house. After reading some of the reviews for the 3-way dimmer version of this switch, I opted to go for these to convert my home. I already have fluorescent light bulbs for almost every light fixture and being able to dim most of the lights was not a priority for me.

This product is just a GE 45609 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch packaged with an auxiliary switch (GE 45610) so that you can have it control a 3-way (or 4-way, you'll need another aux switch) circuit. It's meant to replace and EXISTING 3-way circuit without any new wiring required. I used these instead of the GE 45613 Z-Wave Technology 3-Way Dimmer Switch Kit due to the fact almost every single light in my house is florescent.

To wire the primary switch, you need to have ground, neutral, line (hot), load (to the light), and a travel wire leading to the other switchbox where the aux switch will be located. The aux switch only needs a ground, neutral, and the travel wire that leads back to the primary switch. Now you should be able to check your wiring and verify you have all the needed wires before tearing everything apart.
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Verified Purchase
I recently installed two sets of these switches to control my outside flood lights. For the most part, installation was fairly easy, and they've worked perfectly so far. The key to having a successful installation is understanding how a traditional 3-way switch system is wired, and how these Z-Wave switches differ from those of a traditional installation. Once you understand the difference (which took me a while), installation becomes pretty straightforward.

My only complaint is that these switches are much deeper than traditional switches, and thus they leave very little room behind them for wires. The most frustrating part of installation for me was trying to cram wires in the back of the electrical box so that the switches would fit. I'm sure the size of these switches is necessary for the Z-Wave functionality, but it made for a very unpleasant portion of the installation. I'm fairly new to electrical work, so I wasn't about to swap out the electrical box for a roomier one.

I'd like to share what I've learned about 3-way switches in general and these switches in particular in order to help others who may be fairly new to doing their own electrical work:

A traditional 3-way switch has three terminals: one common, and two travelers. In a typical configuration, depending on where the switch is situated in the circuit, the common wire is either bringing power from your service panel ("line") or continuing on to the light fixture ("load"). The two 3-way switches are connected together by the two traveler wires. When both switches are connecting their respective common wires to the same traveler wire, the circuit is completed, and the light goes on.
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Read a few reviews before I purchased this pair of switches. Installation wasn't too bad. To make things easier for me, I created a simplified wiring diagram to go from the standard 3-way switches to the Z-Wave switches. I didn't know which box had the hot wire so I created both situations because I wanted the primary (45609) switch to be in the kitchen and the auxiliary (45610) to be in the garage. The primary has an option to change the LED default from on when the load (in my case the garage lights) is off to the opposite mode. I wanted to have the blue LED on when the garage lights were on so I didn't have to open the door to see if they were on or off.

I turned off the breakers to the two junction boxes I needed to work on first. Both had other light switches in them and I needed to turn off a total of 3 circuit breakers. Once the switch covers were off and the old switches removed with the loose wires not touching anything, I turn the breaker I needed back on to see which box had the hot wire using a voltmeter; the other box would have to have the load wire from the lights. After I did that, I turned the breaker back off. Since these switches require a neutral wire, I removed the existing white (neutral) wire nut in each box and attached a short length of white wire then put each wire nut back on and tightened it. In the auxiliary switch box where the hot wire was, I tied the known hot wire to the black wire of the 4-conductor cable that ran to the other switch with an additional wire nut. All I needed to do now was connect the wires to each switch and make sure the primary switch had the two black wires in the right place. I double checked both switches and turned the breakers back on. What a pleasant surprise; all the lights worked like they were suppose to.
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