Used to attach a TMP36 (TO-92 Case) to a heat sink for controlling cooling.
Pros
Thermal Glue easy to apply
Creates a fairly decent bond
Conducts heat very well
Appears non-conductive
Cons
My experience it is a single use product. Once opened, I had 6 days before Thermal Glue setup in tube.
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Product Description
Features: It has heat conducting properties, strong adhesion.
Suitable for all heatsink without fixed clip.
Helps disperse the heat from Chipset to heatsink effectively.
Wide range application
It has good thermal conductivity and wide service temperature range(-60~250 degrees Celsius)
Use for MOSFET, LED, heat sinks , North-south bridge, graphics card , Chipset, heat dissipation part, heat dissipation, electrical appliances, instruments and other industries.
- The curing rateis related to the relative humidity and temperature in the air, the higher the temperature, the faster the curing speed, and vice versa.
- Recommended coating thickness: 0.1-0.5mm, the thinner the better.
- Please close the lid immediately after use to prevent the glue from curing.
- Do not use thermal glue between CPU and HEATSINK.
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I purchased this adhesive in June 2018 and first used it over the past couple of days to assemble homemade heat sinks and apply them to NVME SSDs. Before bonding parts I applied the adhesive to lapped 1/2" square pieces of 1/16" thick aluminum 1100 and applied moderate pressure. A joint gap of .001" was measured with calipers. At a thermal conductivity of 1.2 W/m-K, this bond thickness has neglible thermal resistance for my application. Bonding of parts was done at a humidity of ~30% and a temperature of ~70°F. The adhesive did not "skin over" or otherwise exhibit an increase in viscosity during the fifteen minutes or so that I was working with it. I prefer a slower curing adhesive so that I do not have to race to get parts assembled before increased viscosity causes problems. This applies in particular to parts being bonded to circuit board components since large clamping forces have the risk of damaging the circuit board. Silicone (polysiloxane) adhesives require moisture to cure and this moisture can be provided from the atmosphere or adsorbed moisture on surfaces that are being bonded. Thin joints will cure faster than thicker joints. If you are not going to be able to leave the bonded parts alone for at least 24 hours, it is a good idea to bond pieces of scrap metal and/or plastic and test the bond strength of the test pieces prior to putting your bonded assembly into service. Cleaning surfaces to be bonded with a cotton swab and isopropanol and/or acetone (not suitable for some plastics) is also recommended since the solid filler used to enhance thermal conductivity inhibits the flow and wetting capability of the silicone adhesive. TANSTAAFL. Two pieces of copper were cleaned, bonded, and tested after a 24 hour cure (see photo). The lap joint (~.3 sq.in.) held up under the application of a 10 pound shear force, but failed at 20 pounds. The adhesive in the interior region of the failed joint was still plastic, indicating that the joint wasn't fully cured; however the bond was strong enough for my application.
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on December 17, 2022
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on September 17, 2021
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on May 26, 2021
I purchased this adhesive in June 2018 and first used it over the past couple of days to assemble homemade heat sinks and apply them to NVME SSDs. Before bonding parts I applied the adhesive to lapped 1/2" square pieces of 1/16" thick aluminum 1100 and applied moderate pressure. A joint gap of .001" was measured with calipers. At a thermal conductivity of 1.2 W/m-K, this bond thickness has neglible thermal resistance for my application.
Bonding of parts was done at a humidity of ~30% and a temperature of ~70°F. The adhesive did not "skin over" or otherwise exhibit an increase in viscosity during the fifteen minutes or so that I was working with it. I prefer a slower curing adhesive so that I do not have to race to get parts assembled before increased viscosity causes problems. This applies in particular to parts being bonded to circuit board components since large clamping forces have the risk of damaging the circuit board.
Silicone (polysiloxane) adhesives require moisture to cure and this moisture can be provided from the atmosphere or adsorbed moisture on surfaces that are being bonded. Thin joints will cure faster than thicker joints. If you are not going to be able to leave the bonded parts alone for at least 24 hours, it is a good idea to bond pieces of scrap metal and/or plastic and test the bond strength of the test pieces prior to putting your bonded assembly into service. Cleaning surfaces to be bonded with a cotton swab and isopropanol and/or acetone (not suitable for some plastics) is also recommended since the solid filler used to enhance thermal conductivity inhibits the flow and wetting capability of the silicone adhesive. TANSTAAFL.
Two pieces of copper were cleaned, bonded, and tested after a 24 hour cure (see photo). The lap joint (~.3 sq.in.) held up under the application of a 10 pound shear force, but failed at 20 pounds. The adhesive in the interior region of the failed joint was still plastic, indicating that the joint wasn't fully cured; however the bond was strong enough for my application.
Bonding of parts was done at a humidity of ~30% and a temperature of ~70°F. The adhesive did not "skin over" or otherwise exhibit an increase in viscosity during the fifteen minutes or so that I was working with it. I prefer a slower curing adhesive so that I do not have to race to get parts assembled before increased viscosity causes problems. This applies in particular to parts being bonded to circuit board components since large clamping forces have the risk of damaging the circuit board.
Silicone (polysiloxane) adhesives require moisture to cure and this moisture can be provided from the atmosphere or adsorbed moisture on surfaces that are being bonded. Thin joints will cure faster than thicker joints. If you are not going to be able to leave the bonded parts alone for at least 24 hours, it is a good idea to bond pieces of scrap metal and/or plastic and test the bond strength of the test pieces prior to putting your bonded assembly into service. Cleaning surfaces to be bonded with a cotton swab and isopropanol and/or acetone (not suitable for some plastics) is also recommended since the solid filler used to enhance thermal conductivity inhibits the flow and wetting capability of the silicone adhesive. TANSTAAFL.
Two pieces of copper were cleaned, bonded, and tested after a 24 hour cure (see photo). The lap joint (~.3 sq.in.) held up under the application of a 10 pound shear force, but failed at 20 pounds. The adhesive in the interior region of the failed joint was still plastic, indicating that the joint wasn't fully cured; however the bond was strong enough for my application.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on September 27, 2022
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on March 31, 2022
Added a heatsink to my NAS network chip, put a few small dabs of the glue and put a small weight on top of the heatsink and let it setup for 24 hours, feels solid like cement no flexing, temps are lower than before installation. Would recommend, just keep in mind this isn't thermal paste this is glue. That heatsink isn't ever going to be removed.
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