Memory Speed | 2133 MHz |
---|---|
Number of USB 2.0 Ports | 1 |
GIGABYTE GA-AX370-Gaming 3 (AMD Ryzen AM4 X370 RGB FUSION HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-A ATX DDR4) Motherboard
Brand | Gigabyte |
CPU Socket | Socket TR4 |
Compatible Devices | AMD A Series |
RAM Memory Technology | DDR4 |
Compatible Processors | AMD A Series |
Chipset Type | AMD 785E |
Memory Speed | 2133 MHz |
Platform | Not Machine Specific |
Series | GA-AX370-Gaming 3 |
Memory Storage Capacity | 64 GB |
About this item
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- Supports AMD Ryzen & 7th Generation A-series/Athlon Processors
- Dual Channel Non-ECC Unbuffered DDR4, 4 DIMMs
- Fast 2 USB 3.1 Gen 2 with USB Type-A
- 2-Way Crossfire Multi-Graphics Support with Ultra Durable Metal Shielding over PCIe Slots
- Ultra-Fast PCIe Gen3 x4 M.2 with PCIe NVMe & SATA mode support
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Product information
Technical Details
Brand | Gigabyte |
---|---|
Series | GA-AX370-Gaming 3 |
Item model number | GA-AX370-Gaming 3 |
Item Weight | 1.3 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 8.86 x 8.86 x 1.18 inches |
Item Dimensions LxWxH | 8.86 x 8.86 x 1.18 inches |
Number of Processors | 1 |
Computer Memory Type | DDR4 SDRAM |
Manufacturer | Gigabyte |
ASIN | B079JYKLSJ |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Date First Available | March 12, 2018 |
Additional Information
Customer Reviews |
4.3 out of 5 stars |
---|---|
Best Sellers Rank | #1,614 in Computer Motherboards |
Warranty & Support
Feedback
Product Description
Supports AMD Ryzen & 7th Generation A-series/Athlon Processors Dual Channel Non-ECC Unbuffered DDR4, 4 DIMMs Fast 2 USB 3.1 Gen 2 with USB Type-A 2-Way Crossfire Multi-Graphics Support with Ultra Durable Metal Shielding over PCIe Slots Ultra-Fast PCIe Gen3 x4 M.2 with PCIe NVMe & SATA mode support ALC1220 120dB SNR HD Audio with Smart Headphone Amp Realtek Gigabit LAN with cFosSpeed Internet Accelerator Software USB DAC-UP 2 & 2 Front USB 3.0 Ports with Adjustable Voltage RGB FUSION with Multi-Zone LED Light Show design Swappable Overlay for Accent LED Smart Fan 5 features 6 Temperature Sensors and 5 Hybrid Fan Headers GIGABYTE UEFI Dual BIOS APP Center Including Easy Tune and Cloud Station Utilities. ATX Form Factor; 30.5cm x 23.0cm.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2017
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Top reviews from the United States
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The issue is that EXACT bios revision and AGESA version caused Windows 10 1803 to BSOD after the upgrade. I went through having to do a clean install and it still didn't work. I had been using f22b because it provided the best OC I had been able to get. 3.975GHz on the CPU and 3400MHz on the ram stable. I had to upgrade to BIOS f23 to get everything to boot up and lost 200MHz on the ram. The system also runs hotter on this revision but the AGESA code is current 1.0.0.4 so It's worth it in the end.
As for the motherboard it is very picky as to which PCI-e slot I use for my Wi-Fi card so I always put it in the bottom (could also be an issue with the wifi card Rosewill RNX-1900) It works perfectly in that slot though. When it it is the top x1 slot it disconnects some times so I just routed Extra USB 3 connectors there instead then moved it to the bottom x4 slot. This way I can still utilize the x8 for SLI or crossfire in the future.
Performance is good when you're on a stable (for you) bios revision. I'd say the weakest and most frustrating part of owning this board is the BIOS revisions. I am the type to keep everything up to date, but with this board if you find a good BIOS for you just do yourself a favor and keep using it until you MUST update it. For instance if you had a problem like I did where you can't boot into a new build of windows. Also with Gigabyte a lot of the time their beta bios's are better than the final revisions so make sure you save them if you like them because they often pull the betas from the download list when the final version is released.
The board works well with my G.SKILL Trident Z cl16 3600MHz ram though different BIOS and AGESA versions have it perform at different levels. The best I have ever got stable was 3466mhz and that is dependant on the BIOS, AGESA, and IMC in your CPU. This board pairs quite well with a lot of ram which is nice.
The VRM cooling isn't great and if you push too much voltage on your CPU and RAM it will get toasty! It shoudn't go over 90c even when you're pushing a ton of voltage but if you have a very small fan laying around that you can put over the VRM heat sinks you will lower your temps about 5c (the x470 version of this board fixed this issue with a nice finned heat sink. It's just too bad you can't replace the one on the x370 with it.)
Overall though I've had issues here and there with this board it really has a fantastic set of features for the money and as long as you test your OC with OCCT and your ram with memtest. It will run VERY well especially on BIOS F23. It is the latest version and is finally quite good.
Ryzen gen 1 was a rough launch but gen 2 seems to have been quite smooth and as an early adopter I knew what I was getting into. To be honest a year later I am still glad I got a Ryzen 1700 and I had the segmentation fault too. AMD replaced my CPU in about 1.5 weeks and the replacement has been excellent.
If you can afford the newer X470 Gaming 7 go for it as it is basically this board with all the newer bells and whistles plus it has Wi-Fi included which is a nice addition. Oh and the better VRM cooler is great too.
The front panel audio is wonky for a lot of users, but I don't use it as I have a nice DAC/Headphone amp. The rear audio IO works perfectly and I use it in 7.1 all the time. The headphone AMP is actually a bit too strong IMHO. Paired with Sennheiser HD6xxs it pushes them too hard (at least it used to) I haven't used that feature since I bought the nice DAC/AMP combo unit from Amazon.
Current setup that works in this build:
R7 1700 @3.975GHz
16 GB - G.Skill Tridrnt-z RGB 3600 MHz Samsung b-die
Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming rev 1.0
2x Samsung 1TB HDDs in Raid 0
2x Mushkin 1TB Reactor SSDs in RAID 0 (HIGHLY DO NOT RECOMMEND THEY ARE CAUSING MAJOR ISSUES ON TWO DIFFERENT AM4 MOTHERBOARDS IN RAID) HIGH FAILURE RATE!! (go with Samsung, Crucial, Intel, Micron, Kingston, SanDisk etc...instead)They have grewat customer service but horrid reliability. Two died (one in a year, and one exactly 30 days after purchasing it from Amazon so now I can't return it (-_-)
Rosewill RNX-1900 AC Wi-Fi
Fractal Design Celsius s36 AIO cooler Push/Pull config
CoolerMaster Master Case 5 pro
KINGWIN Lazer LZ-850 850W Modular 80 PLUS BRONZE PSU

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on September 17, 2017
The issue is that EXACT bios revision and AGESA version caused Windows 10 1803 to BSOD after the upgrade. I went through having to do a clean install and it still didn't work. I had been using f22b because it provided the best OC I had been able to get. 3.975GHz on the CPU and 3400MHz on the ram stable. I had to upgrade to BIOS f23 to get everything to boot up and lost 200MHz on the ram. The system also runs hotter on this revision but the AGESA code is current 1.0.0.4 so It's worth it in the end.
As for the motherboard it is very picky as to which PCI-e slot I use for my Wi-Fi card so I always put it in the bottom (could also be an issue with the wifi card Rosewill RNX-1900) It works perfectly in that slot though. When it it is the top x1 slot it disconnects some times so I just routed Extra USB 3 connectors there instead then moved it to the bottom x4 slot. This way I can still utilize the x8 for SLI or crossfire in the future.
Performance is good when you're on a stable (for you) bios revision. I'd say the weakest and most frustrating part of owning this board is the BIOS revisions. I am the type to keep everything up to date, but with this board if you find a good BIOS for you just do yourself a favor and keep using it until you MUST update it. For instance if you had a problem like I did where you can't boot into a new build of windows. Also with Gigabyte a lot of the time their beta bios's are better than the final revisions so make sure you save them if you like them because they often pull the betas from the download list when the final version is released.
The board works well with my G.SKILL Trident Z cl16 3600MHz ram though different BIOS and AGESA versions have it perform at different levels. The best I have ever got stable was 3466mhz and that is dependant on the BIOS, AGESA, and IMC in your CPU. This board pairs quite well with a lot of ram which is nice.
The VRM cooling isn't great and if you push too much voltage on your CPU and RAM it will get toasty! It shoudn't go over 90c even when you're pushing a ton of voltage but if you have a very small fan laying around that you can put over the VRM heat sinks you will lower your temps about 5c (the x470 version of this board fixed this issue with a nice finned heat sink. It's just too bad you can't replace the one on the x370 with it.)
Overall though I've had issues here and there with this board it really has a fantastic set of features for the money and as long as you test your OC with OCCT and your ram with memtest. It will run VERY well especially on BIOS F23. It is the latest version and is finally quite good.
Ryzen gen 1 was a rough launch but gen 2 seems to have been quite smooth and as an early adopter I knew what I was getting into. To be honest a year later I am still glad I got a Ryzen 1700 and I had the segmentation fault too. AMD replaced my CPU in about 1.5 weeks and the replacement has been excellent.
If you can afford the newer X470 Gaming 7 go for it as it is basically this board with all the newer bells and whistles plus it has Wi-Fi included which is a nice addition. Oh and the better VRM cooler is great too.
The front panel audio is wonky for a lot of users, but I don't use it as I have a nice DAC/Headphone amp. The rear audio IO works perfectly and I use it in 7.1 all the time. The headphone AMP is actually a bit too strong IMHO. Paired with Sennheiser HD6xxs it pushes them too hard (at least it used to) I haven't used that feature since I bought the nice DAC/AMP combo unit from Amazon.
Current setup that works in this build:
R7 1700 @3.975GHz
16 GB - G.Skill Tridrnt-z RGB 3600 MHz Samsung b-die
Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming rev 1.0
2x Samsung 1TB HDDs in Raid 0
2x Mushkin 1TB Reactor SSDs in RAID 0 (HIGHLY DO NOT RECOMMEND THEY ARE CAUSING MAJOR ISSUES ON TWO DIFFERENT AM4 MOTHERBOARDS IN RAID) HIGH FAILURE RATE!! (go with Samsung, Crucial, Intel, Micron, Kingston, SanDisk etc...instead)They have grewat customer service but horrid reliability. Two died (one in a year, and one exactly 30 days after purchasing it from Amazon so now I can't return it (-_-)
Rosewill RNX-1900 AC Wi-Fi
Fractal Design Celsius s36 AIO cooler Push/Pull config
CoolerMaster Master Case 5 pro
KINGWIN Lazer LZ-850 850W Modular 80 PLUS BRONZE PSU

BIOS FIRMWARE
If you're planning to buy this board for your Ryzen build, make sure you install the latest BIOS firmware from Gigabyte. Otherwise, you will get a two alphanumeric-character error, which is shown on the onboard display in red. I forgot what was shown on mine, but it wasn't found in the manual among the list of error codes. So, download the latest BIOS firmware, install it and you're good to go.
You might be able to boot to Windows or the operating system of your choice without updating the BIOS firmware, but you will soon find out that your system crashes from time to time. I installed Windows 10 on mine and it frequently crashed before I decided to install the latest BIOS firmware from Gigabyte.
HDMI PORT
Notice the HDMI port on the back. It doesn't work unless your CPU has built-in GPU (graphics board). I plugged an HDMI monitor on mine and wondered why there was no video signal. The manual doesn't mention anything that a video-enabled CPU is needed for this port to work, or perhaps it did but I missed that part? Anyways, I only found out after reading some forums on the Internet.
ETHERNET CARDS
I use this PC for 3D modeling, animation and games and software developments. And on this board are two graphics cards -- a GTX Titan X and a GTX 1080 for graphics rendering. Both cards work flawlessly. However, it's possible that some Ethernet wireless cards will not work on this board.
I have a Trendnet TEW-807ECH card that cannot be detected by Windows 10 even after installing the latest driver that supports the OS. I tried reseating the card on the slot and moving it to another PCIE slot to no avail. I also (temporarily) installed Windows 8.1 on the second SSD of my new computer (dual boot setup), booted on that system and installed the latest driver for the card. To my surprise, the TEW-870ECH card was also not detected. This card was working fine on the AMD FX-8370 computer with the 970A-UD3 motherboard (also from Gigabyte) running Windows 8.1.
My initial thought was that the new motherboard was defective, but that was immediately proven wrong after I installed my older wireless Ethernet card. I don't know what brand this is as there are no names on the circuits except for some numbers, and I didn't keep its box. The card, however, works with the motherboard.
DUAL BIOS
The Dual BIOS feature is what I like the most from the Gigabyte boards. If your BIOS gets corrupted for some reason (ex: due to viruses, or you mess around with your BIOS settings and now it won't POST), you can activate the backup BIOS with its default factory settings, and it will overwrite the primary BIOS firmware.
AMD4 CPU COOLER BRACKET
If you also buy the Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 liquid CPU cooler, you need to have the AM4 bracket that's compatible with this board. The two ones that came with the H100i v2 in the box aren't (one's for Intel board, but the other one isn't for AM4 boards). You can buy the AM4 bracket directly from the Corsairs website or even here on Amazon. But at the time of purchase, they ran out of AM4 brackets for the cooler. If you happen to be in that situation, buy the NZXT AM4 bracket model RKA4-RL-KRX62-02. It's the same bracket under a different name, so it fits perfectly with H100i v2.
Overall, I'm happy with this motherboard. It comes with all the drivers and software for overclocking and for changing the fan speed and the colors of the onboard lights (among others).
*************************************************************************
UPDATE 02.16.2018: INSTALLING A THIRD GRAPHICS CARD
*************************************************************************
I now added a third graphics card to this board -- another Nvidia GTX Titan X, which I plugged on the bottom PCIe slot where the card extended over the front panel (FP) connections. I removed the G connector that I used for the FP connections because it got in the way.
(The G connector is that small block that comes with the motherboard where you connect the wiring from your power and reset buttons and the hard drive LED light. You then plug this block to the front panel connection). But even without the G connector, the graphics card is still touching those FP connections, so be careful you don't damage those and make sure that you lock the card in place.
ISSUE - WINDOWS WON'T START
Then came the moment of truth. I powered on the computer. It got into POST and then the Windows loading animation. Then the PC rebooted and got into POST again, but instead of seeing the Windows loading animation, I got a "Preparing Automatic Repair" message and then a "Diagnosing PC." Then I was presented with the option to restore the system or cancel. I chose "Restore," but it still didn't fix the problem.
To cut the story short, I removed my old wireless Ethernet card and that did it. It is now working. To connect to the Internet, I am now using an ASUS wireless Ethernet dongle (USB-AC51 Dual Band AC6000).
Also, I noticed when I got into Windows 10 for the first time after installing the new card, it took a few minutes for Windows to recognize the card. To test that the graphics cards are working, I connected a monitor to each of them and all three showed my desktop. Also, the CUDA settings in my OctaneRender showed the two Titan X and a GTX 1080. So, I'm very happy about it.

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on January 22, 2018
BIOS FIRMWARE
If you're planning to buy this board for your Ryzen build, make sure you install the latest BIOS firmware from Gigabyte. Otherwise, you will get a two alphanumeric-character error, which is shown on the onboard display in red. I forgot what was shown on mine, but it wasn't found in the manual among the list of error codes. So, download the latest BIOS firmware, install it and you're good to go.
You might be able to boot to Windows or the operating system of your choice without updating the BIOS firmware, but you will soon find out that your system crashes from time to time. I installed Windows 10 on mine and it frequently crashed before I decided to install the latest BIOS firmware from Gigabyte.
HDMI PORT
Notice the HDMI port on the back. It doesn't work unless your CPU has built-in GPU (graphics board). I plugged an HDMI monitor on mine and wondered why there was no video signal. The manual doesn't mention anything that a video-enabled CPU is needed for this port to work, or perhaps it did but I missed that part? Anyways, I only found out after reading some forums on the Internet.
ETHERNET CARDS
I use this PC for 3D modeling, animation and games and software developments. And on this board are two graphics cards -- a GTX Titan X and a GTX 1080 for graphics rendering. Both cards work flawlessly. However, it's possible that some Ethernet wireless cards will not work on this board.
I have a Trendnet TEW-807ECH card that cannot be detected by Windows 10 even after installing the latest driver that supports the OS. I tried reseating the card on the slot and moving it to another PCIE slot to no avail. I also (temporarily) installed Windows 8.1 on the second SSD of my new computer (dual boot setup), booted on that system and installed the latest driver for the card. To my surprise, the TEW-870ECH card was also not detected. This card was working fine on the AMD FX-8370 computer with the 970A-UD3 motherboard (also from Gigabyte) running Windows 8.1.
My initial thought was that the new motherboard was defective, but that was immediately proven wrong after I installed my older wireless Ethernet card. I don't know what brand this is as there are no names on the circuits except for some numbers, and I didn't keep its box. The card, however, works with the motherboard.
DUAL BIOS
The Dual BIOS feature is what I like the most from the Gigabyte boards. If your BIOS gets corrupted for some reason (ex: due to viruses, or you mess around with your BIOS settings and now it won't POST), you can activate the backup BIOS with its default factory settings, and it will overwrite the primary BIOS firmware.
AMD4 CPU COOLER BRACKET
If you also buy the Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 liquid CPU cooler, you need to have the AM4 bracket that's compatible with this board. The two ones that came with the H100i v2 in the box aren't (one's for Intel board, but the other one isn't for AM4 boards). You can buy the AM4 bracket directly from the Corsairs website or even here on Amazon. But at the time of purchase, they ran out of AM4 brackets for the cooler. If you happen to be in that situation, buy the NZXT AM4 bracket model RKA4-RL-KRX62-02. It's the same bracket under a different name, so it fits perfectly with H100i v2.
Overall, I'm happy with this motherboard. It comes with all the drivers and software for overclocking and for changing the fan speed and the colors of the onboard lights (among others).
*************************************************************************
UPDATE 02.16.2018: INSTALLING A THIRD GRAPHICS CARD
*************************************************************************
I now added a third graphics card to this board -- another Nvidia GTX Titan X, which I plugged on the bottom PCIe slot where the card extended over the front panel (FP) connections. I removed the G connector that I used for the FP connections because it got in the way.
(The G connector is that small block that comes with the motherboard where you connect the wiring from your power and reset buttons and the hard drive LED light. You then plug this block to the front panel connection). But even without the G connector, the graphics card is still touching those FP connections, so be careful you don't damage those and make sure that you lock the card in place.
ISSUE - WINDOWS WON'T START
Then came the moment of truth. I powered on the computer. It got into POST and then the Windows loading animation. Then the PC rebooted and got into POST again, but instead of seeing the Windows loading animation, I got a "Preparing Automatic Repair" message and then a "Diagnosing PC." Then I was presented with the option to restore the system or cancel. I chose "Restore," but it still didn't fix the problem.
To cut the story short, I removed my old wireless Ethernet card and that did it. It is now working. To connect to the Internet, I am now using an ASUS wireless Ethernet dongle (USB-AC51 Dual Band AC6000).
Also, I noticed when I got into Windows 10 for the first time after installing the new card, it took a few minutes for Windows to recognize the card. To test that the graphics cards are working, I connected a monitor to each of them and all three showed my desktop. Also, the CUDA settings in my OctaneRender showed the two Titan X and a GTX 1080. So, I'm very happy about it.














Top reviews from other countries

the bios would go on to the wrong monitor
the options in the bios were VERY limited. like 90% of the options are missing
the motherboard stopped working for me after i changed the vcore voltage. and my computer wouldn't turn on, and resetting after pulling out the motherboard battery didn't work either. had to send it back because my computer was dead after this even though it was completely within spec to make that change.
this motherboard made me have to rebuild my computer which was annoying to do. even though i know what to do, it still takes 30-1hr to do it.
also made me buy a psu power detection tool because I thought it might be a PSU issue not just motherboard.
also made me buy new thermal paste
also made me have to wait 3 days without a working computer. which fortunately I have a backup computer but if i didn't I would be more annoyed.
I mean the motherboard was working for a about a year just fine. but the main reason to get an x370 motherboard instead of a b350 or whatever they are called is because you expect the bios to be good and you expect a certain level of quality that just isn't there.

Firstly and most obviously, the GIGABYTE app centre is incredibly lacking, buggy and all round a pain which really doesn't feel like you're using a top of the line product. When I first installed it on top of my normal version of windows 10 which had previously been an older intel based system, it failed to install the C++ redist it required to work and so would constantly crash and just generally not work. The fix for this required me to uninstall all versions of the C++ visual studio from my computer, which in turn made many games stop working as many games install a version of this when they open for the first time (It's often what steam is doing when you click play for the first time after downloading a a game). So, not off to a good start.
I then tried to use the RGB software seeing as this is a large unique part of the board and probably why a lot of people choose this board over more mainstream options like ASUS or MSI. To put it simply, it's severely lacking and just generally seems like it was thrown together. There are only 5 preset modes, and then the other presets are greyed out for some reason I guess they are not supported for some reason even though this is their top of the line motherboard (!?) Some presets have speed sliders also which just do absolutely nothing. You can select a colour cycle but cannot control anything about it. Also just to make it clear it is impossible to control RGB parts of the motherboard separately. You choose a colour for all of them and that's it. The other insane thing is I have an RGB CPU cooler also, and for some reason you can ONLY control the colour of the whole motherboard and the CPU cooler at the same time. Meaning most of your computer HAS to be the same colour at any time. (See photos). I also have an RGB strip which thankfully I can control separately (they are plugged in to different parts of the motherboard).
HOWEVER the "advanced" settings for the lighting is also very broken. I wanted to setup two different colour cycles, one for my strip and one for the rest of my motherboard which cycle at slghtly different speeds so that over time every colour combo is displayed slowly. However, there is an issue with the custom mode where before starting to fade into any next given colour, it will for a second just switch back to blue. No matter what I tried including fully uninstalling all gigabyte apps. This is on top of the software generally crashing and also taking a second or two to apply ANY changes you make to the lighting settings. On top of this, whatever lighting profile you choose, it is not applied until roughly 10 seconds after you sign in to windows at which point all the lights suddenly switch off, then start your profile. (this is booting off an M.2 SSD which overall takes 30 seconds to get into windows in the first place)
It just feels shoddy and a huge waste on what could be such a nice motherboard.
Some positives however is that the windows fan control software is very comprehensive and useful. Can't fault it so good job on that gigabyte.
In terms of the BIOS, can't really complain, it's got everything you'd need including a similar version of the fan control software as found in windows except for some reason mouse sensitivity in the BIOS is ridiculously slow. I have tried with three different mice, two from razer and one from Logitech and all of them have exactly the same incredibly slow mouse sensitivity which makes navigating the BIOS take 3 times as long as it should. You can use the keyboard for most of it however for whatever reason the fan software has no keyboard support so it took me around 10 minutes to set my own curves for 4 fans.
Another quick thing about the GIGABYTE software. They decided to make it try and be an all encompassing software updater for the system so will in theory see when you need to upgrade chrome etc. The reality because it's so shoddy is that every 15 minutes, it will pop up that there's updates for my computer when it displays none. It's incredibly infuriating and I'm thinking of uninstalling it and losing my custom fan profiles and RGB settings just because of it. When you're paying this much for a premium motherboard, it should not feel like I'm using an old laptop from 2012 that hasn't been updated in years.
One last thing. you NEED to install the AMD chipset drivers on this motherboard. I don't know if this is true on all ryzen boards but my system was blue-screening consistently until I installed them. I have never had to install them on any of the many systems I have built (including AMD) until now but they appear to be essential as they immediately stopped my bluescreens.
And just for context, everything I've been talking about has been true both before and after a full clean windows installation.


Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on August 29, 2018
Firstly and most obviously, the GIGABYTE app centre is incredibly lacking, buggy and all round a pain which really doesn't feel like you're using a top of the line product. When I first installed it on top of my normal version of windows 10 which had previously been an older intel based system, it failed to install the C++ redist it required to work and so would constantly crash and just generally not work. The fix for this required me to uninstall all versions of the C++ visual studio from my computer, which in turn made many games stop working as many games install a version of this when they open for the first time (It's often what steam is doing when you click play for the first time after downloading a a game). So, not off to a good start.
I then tried to use the RGB software seeing as this is a large unique part of the board and probably why a lot of people choose this board over more mainstream options like ASUS or MSI. To put it simply, it's severely lacking and just generally seems like it was thrown together. There are only 5 preset modes, and then the other presets are greyed out for some reason I guess they are not supported for some reason even though this is their top of the line motherboard (!?) Some presets have speed sliders also which just do absolutely nothing. You can select a colour cycle but cannot control anything about it. Also just to make it clear it is impossible to control RGB parts of the motherboard separately. You choose a colour for all of them and that's it. The other insane thing is I have an RGB CPU cooler also, and for some reason you can ONLY control the colour of the whole motherboard and the CPU cooler at the same time. Meaning most of your computer HAS to be the same colour at any time. (See photos). I also have an RGB strip which thankfully I can control separately (they are plugged in to different parts of the motherboard).
HOWEVER the "advanced" settings for the lighting is also very broken. I wanted to setup two different colour cycles, one for my strip and one for the rest of my motherboard which cycle at slghtly different speeds so that over time every colour combo is displayed slowly. However, there is an issue with the custom mode where before starting to fade into any next given colour, it will for a second just switch back to blue. No matter what I tried including fully uninstalling all gigabyte apps. This is on top of the software generally crashing and also taking a second or two to apply ANY changes you make to the lighting settings. On top of this, whatever lighting profile you choose, it is not applied until roughly 10 seconds after you sign in to windows at which point all the lights suddenly switch off, then start your profile. (this is booting off an M.2 SSD which overall takes 30 seconds to get into windows in the first place)
It just feels shoddy and a huge waste on what could be such a nice motherboard.
Some positives however is that the windows fan control software is very comprehensive and useful. Can't fault it so good job on that gigabyte.
In terms of the BIOS, can't really complain, it's got everything you'd need including a similar version of the fan control software as found in windows except for some reason mouse sensitivity in the BIOS is ridiculously slow. I have tried with three different mice, two from razer and one from Logitech and all of them have exactly the same incredibly slow mouse sensitivity which makes navigating the BIOS take 3 times as long as it should. You can use the keyboard for most of it however for whatever reason the fan software has no keyboard support so it took me around 10 minutes to set my own curves for 4 fans.
Another quick thing about the GIGABYTE software. They decided to make it try and be an all encompassing software updater for the system so will in theory see when you need to upgrade chrome etc. The reality because it's so shoddy is that every 15 minutes, it will pop up that there's updates for my computer when it displays none. It's incredibly infuriating and I'm thinking of uninstalling it and losing my custom fan profiles and RGB settings just because of it. When you're paying this much for a premium motherboard, it should not feel like I'm using an old laptop from 2012 that hasn't been updated in years.
One last thing. you NEED to install the AMD chipset drivers on this motherboard. I don't know if this is true on all ryzen boards but my system was blue-screening consistently until I installed them. I have never had to install them on any of the many systems I have built (including AMD) until now but they appear to be essential as they immediately stopped my bluescreens.
And just for context, everything I've been talking about has been true both before and after a full clean windows installation.




