GMC Denali Road Bike
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- Alloy calipers and alloy brake levers with hi profile alloy Vitesse racing rims
- Shimano 21 speed derailleur
- 700 mm hi performance tires
- Shimano Revo shifters
- Alloy water bottle cage
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Mens GMC Denali Light weight aluminum, 22.5" road bike, 21 speed Shimano derailleur, ~ For any service questions contact Kent at 1-800-451-KENT (5368), EST.,for replacement parts, repair kits, tools and warranty information, (or) firstname.lastname@example.org.
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I started to feel a wobble in the pedals again (it probably has around 650 miles on it now). I decided to upgrade the Bottom Bracket with a Sealed Cartridge Bottom Bracket (no ball bearings to deal with, just a bottom bracket). The new Bottom Bracket cost about $12 at my bike shop and the installation was about $8. It is now much better and feels way tighter. I put a lot of miles on my bike and push it to its limits (I was able to get to 38 MPH; downhill in the highest gear; still having/able to pedal) the bike is a great buy and just like anythinig it needs some maintenance over time. I try to clean it every 300 miles (degrease and clean the entire bike and relube it). It still is going good and I still love it!!!
I will add that I am starting to see the teeth on the Freewheel looking a little wore (mainly the 6th cog, since I ride mainly in largest front, 6 back). I expect I will be replacing the freewheel in the future. For now it is OK, but that is only a $10 item.
Still loving the bike! I have put about 300 miles on it and it still is running great! I wanted to add that I got a new saddle for this bike (since I have been sharing all my changes with this bike), the saddle is the "Tour de France ASA Full Cut Bicycle Saddle (Black/ Yellow, 275 x 135mm)" from Amazon, it was super cheap (about $20) and looks amazing on the bike (really professional looking and the seat matches the bike really well). The saddle that came with the bike is great and works perfectly! I got this just for the looks. It is professional looking and really adds to the look of this bike (more professional and the colors match up nicely) - I have the Yellow/Black version. I just wanted to share in case you were looking for a saddle for this bike and wanted one that matches it really well (I had a hard time finding a Black/Yellow saddle that had that professional road bike look to it).
Since many people have mentioned the brakes having issues, I thought I would add some tips for the brakes. These brakes are very basic and you can buy a relatively cheap set of road bike brakes that would be better. However, if you do not want to buy new ones you can do what I did. I took the brakes completely off the bike and apart (note the order of the pieces), I than (using pliers) extended the springy thing out more (so the brakes would open better when not being pulled), and than putt them back together carefully making sure that the parts are in the proper grooves and the bolts are tightened properly on both sides (takes some practice). Once I did this I had perfect brakes, they stop me much better than the out of the box config (I noticed that the front spring did not have much tension and was not completely in the housing properly). Once this was fixed braking is much better. When the brake pads wear down I will probably consider buying new brakes (which will come with new pads) and replacing these generic ones. However, a little time perfecting your brakes on this bike will make them much better (or if they work great out of the box than you will not have any issue or need to do this, or if you do not feel comfortable doing this (it is pretty simple once you see how they work) than you could take it to a bike shop. -- Hope that helps.
OK, so the other day I was riding and I could feel some wobble in the pedals, I got off and checked and found that when one pedal was moved the other pedal was moving, so that meant something was going on with the bottom bracket. I do not have a bottom bracket tool, so I took the bike to a local bike shop and they tightened it for me and relubed the ball bearings and put everything back in proper place. Problem fixed! In the future I will probably consider putting a new bottom bracket on it [if I have any other problems] that does not have exposed ball bearings (about $20 for the new bottom bracket). The bike shop charged $8 for the service, it could easily be done at home if you have the tool (but the tool would have cost more than what the bike shop charged). It is possible that the bottom bracket came loose/shifted when I rode on it with the loose pedal, so make sure to tighten your pedal stems to the proper torque (check manual) so this does not happen. Other than this, this bike has been perfect, probably got close to 200 miles on it so far and I love it, it looks sharp and shifts great! Can easily get a fast speed going down hill and still be able to gear high enough to keep pedaling and get more speed up!
I started riding the other day [at this point the bike probably has about 150-200 miles on it] and found that the left (non drive side) pedal stem was wobbly. I pulled off the road and found that the bolt (under the plastic cap) on the pedal stem was almost completely out. This was probably loose from the beginning, since I did not check the pedal stem bolts during assembly. When I got home I got a ratchet and tightened the bolt super tight (as tight as I could get it), I also checked the drive side [side with gears] and it was already super tight and did not budge so it was good. There was nothing wrong with the bike, it was just that this bolt either came loose in shipping or was never tightened all the way. I recommend tightening this bolt really tight when you put the bike together, it is not in the instructions, so check under the plastic cap and give it a good amount of pressure to make sure it is nice and tight and will not come loose.
I got this bike as my first Road Bike. I have been using a Hybrid bike to train on and I now feel that I have become a better rider so I decided it was time to get a road bike. I browsed through the choices of road bikes and found that with the exception of this one most of them were extremely expensive. I could not bring myself to buy an expensive bike (as I would not enjoy it and would be paranoid about it all the time). This one is a great price where I can enjoy it. There are many aspects to this bike, so I thought I would break my review up into sections. I will also update this review if anything happens or if I change anything as time goes by.
When I got the bike it was in a big box and required some assembly. The only tools I needed were a ratchet set and a hex key (or bike tool). The first step was to get the bike out of the box (this was tough since the box had been handled rough and the protective edge pieces were torn through the box (the bike was fine). I finally got the bike out by lifting straight up. I cut the ties that held all the parts together (frame, front wheel) and got the front wheel off of the frame (tough since the spokes are hooked between the handlebar and pedal stem). After I had it off I took the part box (where the instructions are) and the seat out of the box and set them aside (the part box has the reflectors, pedals and water bottle cage -- make sure to check for screws in the box since the reflector had one screw come out that was in the bottom of the box.
I propped the bike up and loosened the front wheels bolts so I had room to slide it onto the fork. Make sure to turn the fork around (as it is turned in the box for shipping) -- the brakes should be facing forward (if you do not turn it proper you will find that the pedals will hit the front wheel, which is not good). I slid the front wheel on and put the wheel hooks on the fork holes and tightened the bolts with a ratchet. You will need to loosen/tighten each side while making sure that the wheel is centered between the fork, than tighten it (the instructions have torque specs, but I just tighten). Make sure that the wheel spins straight between the fork (I will worry about the brakes later), if it does not than retry until it is straight.
Next, I put the handlebars on. They are already hooked to the brakes/gears so all you have to do is stick it in the fork and tighten the expander bolt. I have stand up over the bike and use my thighs to hold the bike straight up and my feet to hold the front wheel striaght and stick the handlebars into the fork. I raised them to the minimum insertion line (your preference, just has to be in to at least the minimum line), than while holding the frame/wheel straight make sure the handlebars are straight (I look down and make sure it is lined up with the wheel) tighten the bolt that is in the top of the handlebar (under the black cover piece - do not forget to put this back on) - I use a screw driver that can take bits and used a star bit that fit, but you could use a hex key or bike tool). Tighten this to the proper torque (I just tightened it), while making sure that everything stays nice and straight. Once it is nice and tight you can now steer!
Next I installed the pedals, there is a sticker on the pedal stem that states left or right and a L or R on the pedal (mine was located on the end of the screw part) that states which pedal is which. Make sure they are lined up and screw it in by hand (I use some pliers wrapped in a towel to tighten a little more than I can by hand (I use the towel to make sure I do not scratch anything)). The pedals should spin freely (but not out of the screw hole).
Next I put in the seat, this requires some tuning (your preference). I waited to do this for when I was going to go on a ride. Once I got outside with my shoes and gear on I put the seat at an eyeball level. Stood over the frame and prepared to mount, If it was too high I lowered it, and if I got on the bike and had too much bend in my knee I would raise it. Once I was happy with it I tightened it super tight. I find the proper height for me is when my foot on the pedal at the lowest point has a very slight bend in the knee (almost straight), that seems to give me the best power on my bike. This bike does not have a quick release seat, so you will have to use a hex key to tighten/loosen the clamp to get the height right (I would try and ride around the yard and repeat until happy), once you are happy you can make sure that the seat is straight (stood over the rear wheel and looked down and aligned the point of the seat with the frame) and hold it in place and tightened. There is a torque setting, but like everything I do I just tightened it until it felt right. I want to add that the seat was nice and horizontal once I got it on the bike, so I did not need to adjust it, but if you like it angled or moved forward/backward slightly you can do so by loosening the bolt under the seat and moving it appropriately (like any normal bike seat), you could also replace it as well with any normal bike seat.
Now the most daunting part of setting up a bike, the gears and brakes. I started with the gears. I had someone hold the rear of the bike up (tire off ground), or you could put the bike on a car rack or a stand rack if you have it. I started to pedal and turned the right shifter (rear derailleur) one at a time. Each turn moved me to the next cog. I tried each one (their are seven of them) and each one shifted perfectly, so I did not need to do any adjusting (if you did need to read the instructions and tighten/loosen the appropriate screw), I than moved to the front derailleur and tried shifting the left shifter (do not left the friction system, but I will touch on that later), I started shifting it and when I got to the center of the friction shifter it jumped to the second cog, I than brought it as far as the shifter goes and it jumped to the largest cog. Gears were perfect! Did not need any adjustments -- this is normal, they are supposed to be ready at the manufacture, but it is good to check.
Brakes, on my old bike this was the hardest part. This bike has road bike brakes and have easy adjusters for cable management. To start with make sure you have them properly tightened to the frame (not too tight, not too loose, if they are wobbly it is too loose, if pulling the brake cable does not move them they are too tight). Next you are going to tighten the cable to make them close to the rims, but not touching (you will need to play with this to get the proper pull in the brake levers for your preference; I like a little more pull especially with drop downs when pulling from the hood. I loosened the cable holder and pulled until it had the right consistency (you may have to play with it - use a ratchet for it not pliers or you may scratch it up). Than tighten it where there is still some give in the cable (you will fine tune it later with the turn bolt). Now squeeze the brake and see if the brake pads are on the rims. If they are not loosen the pad and hold it in the proper place and tighten it, they should be aligned on the rim (make sure they do not touch the tire). Do this for both sides. Now tighten the turney piece above the brake cable to make it fine tuned to to how you want it (brake pull and feel) and than repeat this process to the other brake.
Almost forgot, add air to the tires, the tubes are empty when I got mine, check the wheel for the proper PSI, mine was 50-75, I put in about 75 since I like to have them nice and full, but adjust to your proper preference and make whatever your wheel says,
That is it! My bike is now assembled, it took about 30 minutes (plus 15 minutes fine tuning the seat height later) This is a lot of information, but I thought it might help if you were having trouble, it did not take that long to do, and if you are not comfortable doing it you can take it to a bike shop and they will usually put it together for you (although they charge a high fee for setup; although it may vary by bike shop, so it would not hurt to call if you are not comfortable doing it yourself, but the bike is essentially assembled and than partially taken apart for shipping).
The look of this bike is amazing (I got the yellow/black). It is very sharp and sporty looking and the wheels are very sleek and nice looking with a little accent to enhance the bike, the handlebars are a nice shiny metal look and feel with black with goldish flake handlebar tape (you could change the tape if you wanted to to add a gel tape or change the color, I am happy with the black/gold flake). The brake handles are a shiny metal (almost chrome looking). The seat is a nice high quality material that looks sharp. The pedals are plastic body with a metal frame and teeth on it that look really sharp and the cogs are nice and shiny and front ones are very sharp looking. I left the decals on, since I liked the GMC and and Denali logos the way they were on the bike and I thought it was not overbearing, but still looked really good. If you were not happy with you could remove them, but I like them and left them. Overall the bike is gorgeous and looks way more expensive than it is!
The bike rides really good. You have the road bike racing feel when on it. I am 5' 9.5" and when standing over the frame the bar is right under the crotch (about half an inch), so I am happy with this. You can easily start the bike, from standing over the frame you can easily put a foot on the pedal (I start with right) and push down and lift yourself up to the saddle. The bike is easy to start and is well made where you feel safe. Getting off the bike is also simple, when stopping you can stand slightly and start to stand over the frame and put your feet down when ready. Very easy ride. This is a road bike so it does not have shocks, so be prepared to slow down over bumps and try to avoid them. It rides very well and their is no wobble in the wheels (if you have some than you need to align/tighten your tires). The bike is well made and is responsive, handlebars are easy to hold onto and the tape they use is very comfortable (I do not have to wear gloves with this bike like I did with my old bike).
The gears are basic Shimano entry level derailleurs and Shimano Revoshift shifters. The bike changes gears easily and you can easily see what gear you are in for the right shifter (rear). The front one uses a friction shifter (which I do not love, maybe I will learn to love it), that you just turn until you feel that you are in the right position (you will hear noise when not in the first, last or direct middle of the shifter). I quickly got used to it and regardless you do not shift the front that often. The largest cog has a plastic catch that if for some reason the chain goes to far off the biggest cog, it holds it and you can pull the shifter back a notch to get it back on the cog (without stopping), this rarely happens, usually from shifting too fast or a bad gear combination.
The shifters work well and the derailleurs have no problem. I have not had an issue and as long as you keep your chain and cogs clean you should be good (I like the chain cleaning tool that hooks to the chain so you can clean it without taking the chain off). If you were not happy with the derailleur you could buy a higher end model and it would not be that much money; however, these works perfect for me!
The handlebars are really nice looking and were wrapped perfectly. The electrical tape they used had some sticky residue on it at the bottom, so I added an additional wrap of electrical tape on the electrical tape that they put on (the electrical tape holds the handlebar tapes end in place and the push in on the drop down holds the other side. If you wanted to replace the handlebar tape you can easily do that (I am happy with stock and will use it until it loses its feel), you can upgrade to gel and different colors and all kind of cool things if you want to. The handlebar has really thick metal and since it has separate shifters and brakes it does not have much room for other items. I use an iPhone in an armband for tracking and music and I will add a light to the metal going into the frame and that is all I need.
The shifters are Revoshift and are on the flat part of the handlebar. The brake levers are just plain brake levers. Higher end bikes usually have these as one item (shift from the brake levers), but that usually costs a bit more money (even just buying an entry level brake lever/shifter will run around a $100 for the pair). This works for me and in the future if I find one on a super sale I might consider upgrading. The shfiters are easy to turn (you do have to move your hands to the flat part of the handlebar (take them off the hood or drop down). The brakes are easy to pull and are basic brake levers but do the job. You can easily pull them from the hood or the drop downs (can pull much easier from drop downs, but still can pull them from the hoods). The handlebars are nice and are easy to use. I have no issue with them and if I do come across a combination shifter brake lever for a great price I might consider upgrading, but it would have to be a great price since the separate shifter/brake lever are just as good for me.
The brakes are very basic and are not the best. They work and will stop you, but it does take some pull to get stopped quickly. I might replace them with some higher level ones. However, these do work and if you get them setup properly they work fine. I just have used better ones and prefer the better ones. I will probably upgrade these in the future (maybe when their pads are up I will just buy news brakes instead of new pads for these...). I am not saying that these are bad brakes. but they are just not the best and I will probably replace them in the future, but they do their job and do help maintain speeds and stop you. These are probably the weakest element of this bike.
The pedals are really nice and the metal frame and spikes keep your feet in place (I am not a fan of clip ons, but if you prefer those you could easily change them. --I am paranoid about being hooked to the bike, but will probably make the switch in the future so I can get more power in my pedaling). The pedals look really nice on this bike and add to the high quality of this bike. I do want to note that the pedals have metal sharp edges that are great for hooking into your shoes (keeping your foot from slipping), however, in wet weather or if you slip up and remove your foot from the pedal you will wind up getting hit in the back or front of the leg with these pedals which will cut your leg up (trust me... - a truck forced me to close to the edge and the road was crumbly and I slipped off the side and put my foot off the pedal to balance and keep from falling and the pedal came around and hit me in the back of the leg and cut the back of the leg up [ruined a good sock...], so be careful with these, they are great pedals but if your foot slips prepare to get sliced up [did not even realize it cut me until I looked down]).
The seat is like a normal road seat and the connection to the seat post is a normal bike saddle, so if you do not like this one you can use any one you prefer. I personally like this seat, it is very comfortable and looks good on the bike (the side logo of the manufacture on the seat will rub off with your thighs, but I have never had a seat not do this). However, if you are not happy with it change it out. It is a standard road bike seat and is comfortable and high quality. The seat post connection is a screw and not quick release (you could change this for about $10), but I got my seat to the height I like, so I do not need to change it.
The wheels are really nice looking and accent the bike nicely. They do arrive flat so you will need to add air. I have a bike pump for this bike since mine needs 75 PSI, and my car's pump does not go that high, so I did get a bike pump that has a reader that goes that high. They inflate fast and had no problems. The wheels are high quality and look good. They are not quick release (they are bolt on), it would have been nice if they were quick release, but that is OK, except for repairs I do not take the wheels off. I have gone over downtown streets and bumps and what has looked like broken glass and limbs and have not had any punctures or any problems, I also find that these wheels/tube keep their air longer and I have not had to add more air (compared to how often my other bike had to be refilled with air).
The frame is very light (in my opinion), I can easily lift it with one hand and carry it on my shoulder. The frame is aluminum and the fork is steel. It is super light and is much lighter than my old hybrid bike. The bike includes a water bottle holder (no water bottle), so I will have to buy a water bottle since it does not fit any that I have at home (it will fit any normal bike water bottle you find in the bike section at the stores). To add, I got a water bottle at Walmart for really cheap that had the lining that is suppose to keep water colder longer, it fits perfectly and is easy to get to while riding (although I usually stop before getting water).
In the end this is a great bike. It was a reasonable price and since it is a regular road bike frame it can be easily upgraded in the future (derailleurs, brakes, shifters/brake levers, handlebar tape, cogs, freewheel, whatever you want). I am very happy with this bike, I will probably change the brakes in the future (maybe upgrade to shifter/brake levers if I can find them for cheap), but the bike is perfect the way it is (brakes could be better) and looks amazing. It is very sporty looking and super light (can carry with one hand or one shoulder with little effort) and it rides amazingly, the gears change smoothly and get a great speed with no problem. It handles nicely and is easy to drive.
The key to any bike it putting it together properly from the beginning. If you have problems check online for videos or take it to a bike shop for help, if you get it setup properly you will not have any issues.
I highly recommend this bike and am very happy with it, it was a great purchase and a great quality bike!!!!!
While bikes like these are mass-produced in a factory, each bike comes with its own quirks and problems. Luckily, the unit I received had no glaring manufacturer flaws, however the quality is not the best. The front hand brakes will need adjustment, and they are held together with a pin that while physically can support the stress, really feels like a cheap solution.
The handlebars are seemingly wrapped in electrical tape, but can endure a surprising amount of abuse. Surprisingly the derailleur system was decent. Shifting on this bike is smoother than one would expect for the price. The frame is heavy, but not too bad considering the total price. The wheels were not bent or warped when my unit was received, and the brakes were adjusted properly.
Yes, you can get a better used bike for less. Yes, there are people selling used Cannondales on CL for less than 100 bucks. However, if you have no idea about how bikes work and just want something that'll get you to class, this is for you.
Beautiful Bike, lighter than my two mountain bikes, lot lighter,
does not come with the Derailer's adjusted I knew nothing about adjusting them but quick Google and had many vids on how to do it.
took a good while but I got it pretty good.
If u are not handy I would advise take it to a bike shop. I had made me a bike stand and it was slow going , with out a stand it would be almost impossible to do it right.
I have all the metric tools and T handle Alan's in metric .
The finish is beautiful . I have the yellow and black.
I have only ridden it a few miles and it is twice as easy to pedal as my mountain bike's
The seat was to hard and wrong shape but I had ordered a Sunlite Cloud-9 Bicycle Suspension Cruiser Saddle for 20 bucks from amazon. worked great, I am 72 years old, I needed more padding.
It is well worth the money, I looked at a lot of used bikes, they wanted more than this Bike cost and a unknown history,
I would buy it and recommend it.
watch the inseam size, mine is the 22.5, I am 6-3 with probably 31 inch inseam, When I stand one the bike I have about 1 or 1 1/2 inch's over the cross bar , it says on the box 33 inch is min stand over. be sure of this if you order one, I am old school and thought that 26 meant 26, not this bugger is pretty tall, could have gotten the 19.5 and would be sure it was not to big.
1. The bolt in the stem constantly comes loose, it's probably cheaper to buy a whole new bike than replace the fork and/or quill stem.
2. Most bikes usually need a set of hex keys for most things - this bike needs a range of tools: screwdrivers, hex keys, and socket wrenches
3. The brake set that comes with the bike aren't very good. They're hard to set correctly so that one side does not rub while you ride.
But with a little bit of work and patience you can make this into a good enough beginner bike.