GMC Denali Road Bike
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- 21-speed road bike features a lightweight aluminum frame
- Alloy calipers and ally brake levers
- High-profile alloy Vitesse racing rims
- Shimano derailleur and Shimano Revo shifts makes it easy to change gears quickly and smoothly
- High-performance 700c tires are up to the challenge of rigorous street racing
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|Frame Material Type||Aluminum|
|Wheel Size||29 inches|
Mens GMC Denali Light weight aluminum road bike has a 21 speed Shimano derailleur. ~ For any service questions contact Kent at 1-800-451-KENT (5368), EST.,for replacement parts, repair kits, tools and warranty information.
The GMC Denali 700C 21-Speed Road Bike is built around a lightweight aluminum road bike frame for racing or commuting. You'll stop on a dime with the alloy calipers and brake levers, and the high-profile alloy Vitesse racing rims look as good as they perform. The Shimano derailleur and Shimano Revo shifts make it easy to change gears quickly and smoothly, and the high-performance 700c tires are up to the challenge of rigorous street racing. Lastly, this road bike will help you stay hydrated with the included alloy water bottle cage.
- Frame: Aluminum 7005 straight gauge
- Fork: GMC Series 7000 steel
- Chain: KMC Z 51
- Crankset: Prowheel Alloy 335P6 28X38X48 170mm
- Front Derailleur: Shimano FD-TZ 31 Index
- Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS 7SPD
- Shifters: Shimano Revo SIS L2/R7
- Brake levers: Promax BL-250AP Aluminum
- Brakes: Promax 501A Alloy Caliper Brake
- Rims: Vitesse Alloy black 700CX14GX36H
- Tires: Kenda Black With Grey Band 7X28C
- Stem: Aluminum black EXT:100mm 0D.
- Handlebar: Maesbend W: 430mm D:22.0mm
- Saddle: Cionlli Black
- Seat post: HL Aluminum Micro Adjust 27.2 X 300mm
- Pedals: VP-990S plastic body with steel cage
- Weight: 29.0 lbs
Amazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide
Finding the Right Bike
To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike:
The Right Ride
In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories:
- Road and Racing Bikes--As a general rule, road and racing are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain.
- Mountain Bikes--With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine.
- Comfort/Cruiser Bikes--For tooling around on bike paths, light trails, or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family.
The Right Price
A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability.
- Entry-level--You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use.
- Mid-range--Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the "sweet spot." Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension.
- High-end--Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultra-lightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action.
The Right Size
Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips:
- Stand-over Height--To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want three to five inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between one and two inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have two to four inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height.
- Top Tube Length--You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half and subtract six inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about two inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit.
- Bikes for Women--Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube and many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance.
The Right Accessories
When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons:
- Helmet (this is a must!)
- Seat pack
- Hydration pack, or water bottles and bottle cages
- Spare tubes
- Portable bike pump
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Top customer reviews
This bike has tried to kill me on a regular basis. It started off ok, and then after about half a year, the bottom bracket gave out. This means that now, when I put too much force into pedaling (usually at high speeds) the pedals will "skip", causing my feet to slip off, resulting in... pain.
In terms of general maintenance, the rims of mine must have been defective because there are all sorts of sharp edges within them, which pop your tires. After I filed them down, things have gotten better though.
Additionally, none of the screws seem to stay tight.
Brake lever attachment screws: No matter how much I tighten them, which involves disconnecting it from the brake itself, they always loosen up and fall off in about a week.
Handlebar screws: Remember how I said the bottom bracket broke, well when it does throw me off, the handle bars rotate in their attachment, because the screws loosen themselves, and without a something to brace myself on, I get thrown over the handlebars.
Also, if you get this bike, be sure to swap out the brake pads. Something about them will make it so they are unable to grip the rim of your tire well.
Finally, the derailleur are absolute crap. the front one doesnt have the range to effectively reach all 3 gears, so I have had to adjust it to just work on the first 2, and the back one only works for the middle range of gears.Because the bottom bracket is broken my bike pedals wobble when i pedal, and this wobble can shift the front gears for me in between strokes, which causes more skipping.
Well, that covers just about every component on the bike that I've had trouble with, and just about every component on the bike as well.
DONT BUY THIS BIKE!
Here are the things I did:
1. Remove all decals (heat gun)
2. Swap in better pedals (the stock ones were small and annoyingly they have a top and bottom so you have to make sure your foot goes on the correct side of the pedal).
3. Replace the weird heavy mutant road handlebars with: XLC Riser-Bar 30mm height HB-M04. Clamps right in using the shim already on the bike.
4. Replace the horrid twist-grip shifters and brake levers with Shimano EF-51 Shifter/Brake Lever Combo (3 x 7 Speed)
5. Install rubber grips on the handlebars: Avenir Comfy Soft Grips (Black/Grey, 137mm)
6. Install Mirrycle MTB Bar End Mountain Bicycle Mirror
7. Install Shimano M361 Hybrid Crankset (Black) (I sacrificed high-end speed for better granny-gears up SF hills.)
8. Install Shimano MF-HG37 Tourney Freewheel (13-28T 7 Speed)
9. Install Tektro dual-pivot road bike brake calipers
The drive-train component upgrades give me much improved shifting as well as a much "tighter", non-flexy, feel when I'm pedaling hard (uphill). The brake upgrade is like night and day; the stock brakes were so bad as to be dangerous (and not just the pads--they were single-pivot calipers with very little mechanical advantage).
Of course I had to true the wheels, and the derailleurs were both out of line; I had to bend the rear one to make it straight and re-mount the front one.
The one residual complaint I have about the bike is that the fork (steel) is very stiff. I will probably look into replacing it at some point. Ideas about that are welcome.
I'm 5'11" tall, and the bike fits me and my 6'1" son fine. I don't think it would fit anyone shorter than me.
(And hey reviewers, don't assume that all versions of this bike come with exactly the same components.)
My new, black and green Denali bike, bought just last month with my birthday money from my relatives, has been used as my main source of transportation to and from school for every day of the week. To anyone that has rid this bike knows that it is smooth, comfortable, and fast which adds to the desire of wanting to ride the bike. I would encourage anyone that’s looking in the bike market to consider this bike, whether you are on a tight budget or an expensive one, because this bike has the quality of a $1000 bike at the price of only $200. The worst part about this bike is finding the unique tools to build the bike out of the box, which can be a hassle and I would suggest that if you don’t know a lot about bikes, that you should take it to a bike shop; but the bike is worth it in the long run. This is the best bike I’ve ever
Most recent customer reviews
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