| Manufacturer | General Finishes |
|---|---|
| Part Number | JQ |
| Item Weight | 2.17 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 5 x 5 x 5 inches |
| Item model number | JQ |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Size | 1 Quart |
| Color | Java |
| Finish | Satin |
| Material | Oil Based |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Included Components | General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Java |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |
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General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Java
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- This is the stain that has the most "finishing feel" of all General Finishes' products
- Woodworkers love the lustrous finish that shows up
- Heavy-bodied, and so does not penetrate as deeply into the wood as liquid oil-base stains do
- Can help you get a more even appearance on difficult woods such as aspen or pine
- Easy-to-use stains simply wipe on with a cloth or applied with a foam brush (no spills or splashes)
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This item General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Java | General Finishes Oil Based Gel Topcoat, 1 Quart, Satin | General Finishes Water Based Wood Stain, 1 Quart, Espresso | Varathane 358300 Premium Gel Stain, Quart, Cabernet | Old Masters 24991 80704 Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Dark Walnut, 32 Fl Oz | Old Masters, Dark Walnut 80708 Gel Stain Pint, 16 Fl Oz | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Customer Rating | 4.7 out of 5 stars (11342) | 4.7 out of 5 stars (1455) | 4.6 out of 5 stars (1646) | 4.4 out of 5 stars (637) | 4.5 out of 5 stars (434) | 4.7 out of 5 stars (557) |
| Price | $54.95$54.95 | $49.95$49.95 | $44.95$44.95 | $24.99$24.99 | $34.18$34.18 | $24.75$24.75 |
| Sold By | Prime Tools | Prime Tools | Prime Tools | Amazon.com | Gatzies | A-Z Best Deal |
| Item Dimensions | 5 x 5 x 5 inches | 5 x 5 x 5 inches | 4.5 x 4.5 x 4.88 inches | 4.25 x 4.25 x 4.88 inches | 8.75 x 8.75 x 5.5 inches | 4.25 x 4.25 x 2.69 inches |
Product Description
These oil-based Gel Topcoats and Stains are quite possibly the easiest of all finishes to use and achieve a "hand-rubbed" look without all the work. Application is easy with a foam brush or lint free cloth. The heavy bodied gel formulation permits the product to flow out evenly (no drips or runs) preventing uneven penetration for consistent color control. Combined with no sanding (your choice to sand or not) between coats and a quick “re-coat” time, you’ll be finished sooner with less effort and better results than ever before.
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Technical Details
Additional Information
| ASIN | B001DSY50Y |
|---|---|
| Customer Reviews |
4.7 out of 5 stars |
| Best Sellers Rank | #3,209 in Tools & Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement) #6 in Household Stains |
| Date First Available | June 22, 2008 |
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Customer reviews
Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.
To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Learn more how customers reviews work on AmazonReviewed in the United States on October 22, 2016
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1. I cleaned the banisters with Krud kutter ( not the deglosser) and a green scotch bright pad and wiped clean. 2. Clean with a green scotch bright pad and and a good amount of Dawn soap and water. 3. Give a medium scrub down with mixture of 50 denatured alcohol and 50 water with yet another scotch bright pad. Let dry 2 hours. 4. Give a light sanding with a 220 grit sanding pad ( or 400 sheets I believe it what the company said). I used the 220 klingspor flexible sanding pad they recommended in one of the company videos. They are great! One pack was more then enough for the entire banister. 5. Vacuum up the dust really well. 6. Wipe with a damp cloth to remove more dust. 7. Wipe with an oil free tack cloth. I only needed one. 8. Tape everything off with green frog tape and use drop cloths. 9. Start staining! When staining I used these items. A paint cup, foam paint brush, short handled stain grade paint brush ( don’t cheap out), 2- 1” chip brush, extra paint brush, several terry cloth rags, odor free mineral spirits, a plastic cup, gloves, and a cardboard box to sit everything in as I worked.
1. Stir the gel stain well and pour some in the paint cup. Pour and inch or two of mineral spirits in your plastic cup. Put all your supplies in your box and you are ready to go!
2. Dip your rag in the mineral spirits and lightly wipe down the section you are going to work on. This is key! It allows you more time to work and blend. I worked in about 8-10” sections at a time. Try to find natural divisions as blending sections is the hardest part. By the time I got to the second railing I had realized that I could do the side first, then the top and it was easier to blend rather then all the way around the rail before moving on. 3. Dip the foam brush in the gel stain and brush on the wood. Don’t go crazy but use enough that it’s a solid color. 4. Give it just a few seconds then use the short handled stain brush to brush through the gel and start removing some color. Have your rag in your other hand with just a little mineral spirits on it. Dab your brush on the rag to remove the excess stain. 5. Use the chip brush to remove stain in groves and along edges. The chip brush in particular will make it look super streaky. Don’t panic! 6. Keep using your stain brush and the chip brush until quite a bit has been removed and you are sure you have destroyed it because it’s so streaky. 7. Take the extra paint brush, which you use dry, and start very gently brushing over everything. This will blend it all together. You should have removed enough product that you can still see the grain of the wood. It’s stain not paint after all. 8. When you are happy with it move on and wipe the next section with the mineral spirits rag and continue. 9. Let dry 24hrs. At that point you can very carefully touch up any areas that are too light. Give a wipe with mineral spirits, dap on a touch of color with the foam brush and blend. 10. Let dry and then seal with a top coat. I haven’t done this yet, as it’s still drying, but plan to use Arm R Seal semi gloss.
Tips: -if you totally mess up a section you are working on you can remove all the product with a mineral spirit rag and start again. You will NOT be able to do this later or tomorrow so do it immediately if you aren’t happy. -If you work in too large of a section and the gel starts to dry or it’s too thick you can dip your extra chip brush in mineral spirits and gently brush over that area to remove some.
- If you can’t finish in one day be sure to stop at a natural division line. You will not be able to remove the stain tomorrow or get it to blend in perfectly. I left some on one newel post and then when I started the next day I couldn’t get it off so that area is darker and is what it is.
-Do NOT go back to a section you did earlier. You will mess it up!!! Wait until tomorrow to fix it.
By Bill/Jeannette on September 5, 2022
1. I cleaned the banisters with Krud kutter ( not the deglosser) and a green scotch bright pad and wiped clean. 2. Clean with a green scotch bright pad and and a good amount of Dawn soap and water. 3. Give a medium scrub down with mixture of 50 denatured alcohol and 50 water with yet another scotch bright pad. Let dry 2 hours. 4. Give a light sanding with a 220 grit sanding pad ( or 400 sheets I believe it what the company said). I used the 220 klingspor flexible sanding pad they recommended in one of the company videos. They are great! One pack was more then enough for the entire banister. 5. Vacuum up the dust really well. 6. Wipe with a damp cloth to remove more dust. 7. Wipe with an oil free tack cloth. I only needed one. 8. Tape everything off with green frog tape and use drop cloths. 9. Start staining! When staining I used these items. A paint cup, foam paint brush, short handled stain grade paint brush ( don’t cheap out), 2- 1” chip brush, extra paint brush, several terry cloth rags, odor free mineral spirits, a plastic cup, gloves, and a cardboard box to sit everything in as I worked.
1. Stir the gel stain well and pour some in the paint cup. Pour and inch or two of mineral spirits in your plastic cup. Put all your supplies in your box and you are ready to go!
2. Dip your rag in the mineral spirits and lightly wipe down the section you are going to work on. This is key! It allows you more time to work and blend. I worked in about 8-10” sections at a time. Try to find natural divisions as blending sections is the hardest part. By the time I got to the second railing I had realized that I could do the side first, then the top and it was easier to blend rather then all the way around the rail before moving on. 3. Dip the foam brush in the gel stain and brush on the wood. Don’t go crazy but use enough that it’s a solid color. 4. Give it just a few seconds then use the short handled stain brush to brush through the gel and start removing some color. Have your rag in your other hand with just a little mineral spirits on it. Dab your brush on the rag to remove the excess stain. 5. Use the chip brush to remove stain in groves and along edges. The chip brush in particular will make it look super streaky. Don’t panic! 6. Keep using your stain brush and the chip brush until quite a bit has been removed and you are sure you have destroyed it because it’s so streaky. 7. Take the extra paint brush, which you use dry, and start very gently brushing over everything. This will blend it all together. You should have removed enough product that you can still see the grain of the wood. It’s stain not paint after all. 8. When you are happy with it move on and wipe the next section with the mineral spirits rag and continue. 9. Let dry 24hrs. At that point you can very carefully touch up any areas that are too light. Give a wipe with mineral spirits, dap on a touch of color with the foam brush and blend. 10. Let dry and then seal with a top coat. I haven’t done this yet, as it’s still drying, but plan to use Arm R Seal semi gloss.
Tips: -if you totally mess up a section you are working on you can remove all the product with a mineral spirit rag and start again. You will NOT be able to do this later or tomorrow so do it immediately if you aren’t happy. -If you work in too large of a section and the gel starts to dry or it’s too thick you can dip your extra chip brush in mineral spirits and gently brush over that area to remove some.
- If you can’t finish in one day be sure to stop at a natural division line. You will not be able to remove the stain tomorrow or get it to blend in perfectly. I left some on one newel post and then when I started the next day I couldn’t get it off so that area is darker and is what it is.
-Do NOT go back to a section you did earlier. You will mess it up!!! Wait until tomorrow to fix it.
But when I say this made my job easier, I mean it! It goes on so smooth. I applied it with a brush and then wiped the excess off with Terry rounds and it gave me the exact look I wanted. This stain is very workable. You can do very light coats or go darker. I will always use this brand.
A little goes a LONG WAY! Have fun!
By Andrew Custer on October 8, 2022
But when I say this made my job easier, I mean it! It goes on so smooth. I applied it with a brush and then wiped the excess off with Terry rounds and it gave me the exact look I wanted. This stain is very workable. You can do very light coats or go darker. I will always use this brand.
A little goes a LONG WAY! Have fun!
I took steps similiar to many others, but broke it down into 3 sections of the kitchen since it was too large to get down at once. Prep time was probably the most tedious part that included- 1) Empty cabinets, 2) clean cabinets (I used krud kutter), 3) sand cabinets (I tried various grits and found 220 grit to be perfect lightly by hand; if I could go back I would have used a sander), 4) vacuum/wipe down cabinets, 5) tape down areas as needed. Imagine doing this 3 times. I used the sock method (with two non latex gloves). I just bought cheap socks from target/walmart I believe. I also had a small brush and sponge brush. I would the small brush was a lifesaver for the small crevices and corners. I did 4 layers of the Java stain in total. I waited 48 hours first the first coat to dry and 24 hours for the rest. I was expecting some streakiness, but was a little concerned after seeing it on the 3rd coat. 4th coat was the key winner. I think part of that is not optimally preparing some of my surface areas; poteintially due to different amount of protective coating found in different areas of my kitchen. Also the area above my range was probably not cleaned as well as it should have been. I did all my doors/drawers in the garage and numbered each one. I did not sand inbetween coats. After the final coat the stain was beautiful. Even the floor, granite installers, contrator was impressed with the work. The satin gloss is very subtle. I was damn impressed.
Then came the clear coating. I waited an entire week before applying it. I then very lightly sanded with highest grit sanding sponge I could find (I believe it was 220) and wiped the dust down. I used wipe on with rag/sock and sponge brush. I found all methods to work great. Very easy to go on and gives you a lot of wiggle room. I initially purchased the GF Gel Top Coat in Satin. http://www.amazon.com/GF-Gel-Topcoat-Satin-Quart/dp/B001F7R320. I did 3 coats on my island and a standalone cabinet and it came out great. It also whitstanded through the demo believe it or not. The satin sheen was similiar to the Java satin sheen and if anything you could see the grains of the oak cabinets a little more. I did not notice it enriching the color significant either. It kept it pretty consistent. I was very happy about the results, but I decided to try another product due to the high VOC content of the top coat (wife is pregnant and insist to use part of the kitchen). Since this was still 1/4 way through I had to be reasonable and ended up purchasing a non-VOC top coat off in satin from another website. This is when it all went downhill. I didn't realize what type of skill is needed to apply a top coat, until I purchased this. It made me realize how good the GF topcoat was. My cabinets looked horrible. I should have tested it out first. It was 10x more diffiucult to apply and my cabinets not only looked streaky, but their satin looked more like semi-gloss. It also darkened the cabinets noticably more compared to the original coating. I thought I ruined my kitchen. I decided to do more research and found that the most important coat is the last coat. I learned better technique and tools and redid a large portion of my kitchen. Luckily my new technique did wonders and I was able to coat it streak free and the sheen was also a lot less subtle for some reason. Possibly due to putting it on thinner and I made sure I mixed it very well. I did 3 coats total.
The end result came out great despite the scare. I ended up using 2 quarts and still have a little left over. It took me about 6 weeks solo to do my large kitchen, working full-time and other priorities that I could not push back. Like I mentioned if I could go back I would have just hired someone, but that is only because I can supplement my income in a lot less time I spent doing this project to just hire someone. I think that there are so much variables to consider before just doing it so do your research, be patient and trial and error. Everyone's surfaces are different; different wood, coatings, dirt, details, etc. So understand the optimal way to prep for your actual surface. I also think technique and having the right tools plays a role especially if you have a more challenging surface such as a door with all types of crevices, details, corners, etc. Too me that was the most difficult part was because of those challenging areas of the door. So my two biggest tips would be good preperation for your project and learning the proper technique/tools to do the job. Oh yeah and patience too.
By jydweston on October 5, 2022
Top reviews from other countries
The Results are Amazing!! I Love the Georgian Cherry - it is dark, but with a beautiful Cherry Tint that has a Satin Finish! I did 2 Chairs that have the table in between, so of course I just had to do the table as well. I am Thrilled with the Results!
Reviewed in Canada 🇨🇦 on March 23, 2022
The Results are Amazing!! I Love the Georgian Cherry - it is dark, but with a beautiful Cherry Tint that has a Satin Finish! I did 2 Chairs that have the table in between, so of course I just had to do the table as well. I am Thrilled with the Results!
Will I try to do this again? Answer is No!
Lost count of how many coats I applied cos each time I try to apply, it scrapes some of the previous application, and yes I waited 24 hrs between coats but had to keep touching up some scratches. The finished work looks good, but no worth the stress for me to be honest.
I’ll do the second vanity and that’s it. I had plans to do kitchen at some point but No I will not be. If you are not the most patient person, use of this product might not be for you.
That said, seems a great product.
Caution, the Java is really dark and might be too heavy for say a kitchen.
Reviewed in Canada 🇨🇦 on May 19, 2019
Will I try to do this again? Answer is No!
Lost count of how many coats I applied cos each time I try to apply, it scrapes some of the previous application, and yes I waited 24 hrs between coats but had to keep touching up some scratches. The finished work looks good, but no worth the stress for me to be honest.
I’ll do the second vanity and that’s it. I had plans to do kitchen at some point but No I will not be. If you are not the most patient person, use of this product might not be for you.
That said, seems a great product.
Caution, the Java is really dark and might be too heavy for say a kitchen.
Not sure if the can was filled with the wrong color but it looks nothing like one the picture of one other reviewer of Georgian Cherry. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of this disaster.
Reviewed in Canada 🇨🇦 on November 28, 2021


































