HE3D Open Source Ciclop DIY 3D Systems Scanner Kit for 3D Printer Advanced Laser Scanner, Injection molding Plastics Parts
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- Totally open source 3D scanner for 3D printing , free to get the software
- Easy to assemble and use
- Full kits, it include all the parts for the scanner
- Injection molding red plastics parts, not printed! that make the scanner more beatiful, you won't encouter the problem caused by not precision size
- Upgrade to new intergrated motherboard
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Beautiful red DIY 3D scanner
This scanner belongs to desktop 3D scanners, which can not match with industrial standard scanners, and it is not suitable for scanning irregular and complex objects, only scan nearly cylindrical object, the effect will be more ideal, there are many factors affect scan result. like scanned objects, environment and light. there is a big relationship between them, so we recommend you scan in Constant Light Studio, scanning results will be better.
This Scanner is easy to scan:
1, object space volume is bigger than 5*5cm
2, object space volume is smaller than 20.3cm*20.3cm
3. object weight is less than 3kgs
4. still object
5. opaque object
FAQ: which things are hard to scan or can not scan ?
1.object space volume is smaller than 5*5cm
2.transparent oject (glass or organic plastics)
3.luminous object or highly reflective objects
4.dark object and fuzzy object(such as plush toys )
5.object space volume is bigger than 20.3*20.3cm
6.object weight is more than 3kgs
7.moving objectPackage List
1 Intergrated motherboard X1 piece
2 USB wire X1 piece
3 C270 HD webcam X1 piece
4 42 stepper motor X1 piece
5 Laser X2 pieces
6 12V 1.5A Power supply X1 set
7 8mm Bobbin X1 piece
8 M3*12 self-tapping screw X4 pieces
9 M3*20 self-tapping screw X2 pieces
10 M3*10 screw X10 pieces
11 M3 nut X6 pieces
12 M8 nut X28 pieces
13 M8 washer X18 pieces
14 Hexagon wrench 2.5mm X1 piece
15 M8*30 screw X3 pieces
16 16014 bearing X1 piece
17 M8*382mm Screw X2 pieces
18 M8*302mm Screw X1 piece
19 M8*152mm Screw X4 pieces
20 Injection molded plastics parts X11 pieces
21 Calibration checkered paper X1 piece
22 Calibration board (3mm acrylic plate) X1 piece
23 Countertop (7mm acrylic plate) X1 piece
24 black non-slip mat for the acrylic plate X1 piece
Red injection molded plastics parts
The advantage of plastic injection molding.
1. The surface of injection molding plastic parts is more smooth and clean.
2. Compared with printed plastic parts, You do not need to fix it.
3. It is more durable than printed plastic parts.
Two big advantages of the new design.
1. it is more easy to install.
2. you can stable the board on this plastic parts.
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I am using a mac, (sierra OS). If you manage to locate the Horus (bq) wiki, and work out that the FTDI drivers do not work, google CH34 usb drivers. If you are using Sierra use the amended CH34x)_Install_V1 driver (the official driver will cause a Kernel panic). The updated version does not, and it was this that got Horus to work on my mac.
Setting it up is NOT easy. Getting the lighting, position etc correct is a WIP and I still have not had a good scan yet. I would say that in order to get the thinnest parallel laser you will have to turn the optic until it is thinnest on the board, you may find it is not vertical. I would physically rotate the laser until the line is as thin as it can be, then micro adjust the optic.
A WIP, but good quality parts.
Update: It is is very difficult to scan using both lasers, so I suggest you use one or the other. Although I have read it is not important to have the lasers line up with the center of the bed, I suggest you try and do that if you want to use both lasers. Success is a function of lighting and how you calibrate the device. It is NOT plug and play, and even if you get a decent .ply, you need to know how to use mashlab. HINT, compute normals and screened possion.
As far as quality of the delivered product, I have no serious complaints.
-The molding is decent quality, more than good enough for the task.
-The webcam is a Logitech C270; the same one specified by the open source design. It isn't the best camera out there, but I can't complain about them sticking to the open source spec.
-Some dimensions on the bed seem to be just a bit off; I needed to add a couple washers because the screws protruded too far...not a big deal but it tells me no one bothered assembling one to see if it goes together.
-The line lasers are cheap trash...but so are the ones used in the original design from what I can tell. One laser line is about twice as wide as the other, and I had to use a bit of RTV on the threads to keep the lenses from rotating just from the vibration of the machine running...but I wasn't expecting quality lasers so that's not really a complaint.
-Assembly instructions were missing and assembly is not the same as for the 3D printed version (like you find online). It wasn't too bad to assemble.
-They used some kind of knock-off arduino that wouldn't work with normal Arduino drivers...so now I have some hacked Chinese drivers installed, which I don't like much.
-The bed turns on a bearing. This bearing is pretty rough...not sure if it hurts scan quality given the relatively low resolution of the camera and the low quality line lasers. Also, this bearing isn't sealed...nor is it setup in a way that I would want to put grease in it. Thankfully it doesn't turn fast.
-The calibration pattern was printed on a sheet of paper, and I think they used "scale to fit" because the squares were the wrong size. I had to print my own...which gave OK enough results, although the paper doesn't sit perfectly flat like it should. Again, while I know this would be a problem with a good camera and lasers, I am not sure if it makes a difference with the components you get in this kit.
-Overall, if I ignore deficiencies in the open source design, they got pretty close. I did have to add some parts and glue to get it together, I had to install some sketchy drivers, and I had to print my own calibration pattern. For these things I took one star off.
Then onto the open source project itself...the scans are not great. Anything that is more than about 45 degrees from the camera won't scan. The FAQ shows a scan of a bust that has the top of the head. Not sure how they pulled that off; I never get the top of anything unless it comes to a point. I've had to make multiple scans with objects placed in different orientations, and then try to match those point clouds up. This is neither easy nor accurate. There are a lot of things they could do to make this better. They might double the price by the time everything was fixed...but the quality would go from borderline useless to genuinely useful...or in other terms...it would be $230 well spent instead of $115 wasted.
If I was just reviewing the open source project I think it would get a 1 or 2 star review...but this review is for the retail-ready item based on a design, not for the design itself.
Basically, I would tell you that you do not want a Ciclop pattern scanner at all because it's just a bad design from the start. There are other DIY/low cost 3D scanners out there that do a better job for only a little more money, and even if this was not the case, you really have to fight to get anything even remotely useful out of this. But...if you insist on buying one, then this package is pretty decent for the price.
Top international reviews
ROI - Shows beyond right side
Play - Shows image on monitor but does not “record”
Calibrations - All calibration attempts fail before completion
Any attempt to scan now shuts down camera through software.
All attempts to contact RepRap, Hoyi Sunway go unanswered.