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Showing 1-10 of 49 reviews(Verified Purchases). See all 52 reviews
on June 14, 2017
I waited to write this review until I'd had a chance to print several long prints (28hrs long) so that I could give a true review. Out of the box, it was easy to put together which isn't true of most 3D printers, so this one was way above the rest in that respect. There was quite a smell to it when we opened it, but I'm sure that was just the materials and manufacturing and with the help of a fan and ventilation we were able to air it out just fine. Just be warned, it smelled very bad at first. Before you assemble the printer, I suggest you take out the included microSD card and provided adapter and read through the material there. It isn't extensive, but it does even include a video on printer assembly. A couple of screws had came loose during shipping, so we did need to figure out where they came from and reattach them but it wasn't a big ordeal or anything. Calibration on this printer takes time, but that isn't any different than any other printer of this style. You can use the YouTube videos for the CR-10 even though they are for a different brand. It still works just fine. I have been using Simplify3D as my slicer and not the included Cura ( which is also included on the microSD card), because I'm already familiar with the other software I had already purchased. When using the software, you can use the Creality CR-10 printer profile, just be sure to remove the start script code where it says to lift the nozzle before printing or your prints won't stick to the bed even if you calibrated it correctly. I've been very happy with the quality of my prints and the reliability of this printer. With other printers, you are always having to wipe the nozzle to ensure the nozzle doesn't clog and stall your print, but I've found with the CR-10 code, it wipes the nozzle before printing on the edge of the print bed and I haven't had any issues even when I don't take good care of the nozzle. Because of the wipe, I also haven't had to use as many skirt layers to prime the nozzle either. Like most printers, the motors do make noise that can at times be a low level screech. I haven't yet bought dampers for this printer, but I'm sure that would take care of the noise. I use green painters tape on the print bed but they did include some masking tape with the printer along with a cutting tool and some white PLA filament. That was a nice unexpected bonus, and great for beginners who wouldn't know they might need those things. I've been printing at 210 for the hot end and 50 for the bed and my prints have came out great. On larger, faster prints, I did use a glue stick to ensure the edges of the print stuck to the bed which worked great. The only negative I can think of is that the spool holder for the filament doesn't accommodate the filament spool size I use from Cubicity, but I was able to connect the holder from my other printer for now until I can get or print another holder. I have found that I do get reliable prints when printing from the SD card which means I don't have to leave my laptop connected all night when running a lengthy print. I didn't need to do any adjustments to the firmware, I did lower the Z offset in my slicer to 0 since I had already got the nozzle positioned perfectly before printing. ( for newbies, the Z offset tells the printer to add or remove distance between the nozzle and print bed when printing which is needed mainly when you have a self calibrating printer that didn't get correctly set). I do think this is a great printer for beginners, but I do suggest learning all about printing before you buy because 3D printing isn't like ink jet, you can't just hook it up and print. There's a lot of tweaking that needs to be done to get a perfect first layer of your print which is very important if you want a successful print. However there are some great rescources online and I do suggest you join a Facebook group for whatever printer you buy as the online community is usually very good at helping troubleshoot issues on the fly. This printer, like most, does originate in China, so support can be delayed due to time zone differences.
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on August 8, 2017
easy to assembly. high volume. help me to create RC part in once
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on September 3, 2017
Needed to make some adjustments to the z axis to make it work. Other than that, it works great! Very satisfied with my purchase.!
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on September 20, 2017
Extremely happy with the quality of the 3D prints. Would highly recommend.
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on September 19, 2017
Arrived much earlier than expected and assembly was easy, only taking 15 minutes.
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on September 1, 2017
Some background on me, I'm a very avid 3d Printer, having several machines from plug & play to kits, as well as some custom home built printers I made from scratch. I have printers from 100 x 100 x 100mm build platform to 1000 x 1000 x 500mm built platform. My formal education is in plastics engineering and polymer science, so I have great in-depth knowledge of thermoplastics and lead our additive manufacturing technology areas at work.

This CR-10 model has been on my radar for some time, and I don't regret the purchase. Assembly is very easy, 15-20 minutes (a few bolts, couple brackets, and then connecting wires (each set of wires has a yellow plastic piece with X, Y, Z, or E on them to know what axis motor to connect to. The bed heater and extruder have different pins in the connector so you can't mix them up as they will only fit in one place on the control box. This is the same as the yellow creality version, exact same printer other than Hictop name on the controller (all the motors and other parts say creality on them). Some items to be aware of / potential issues you may encounter:

- Check the Z axis coupler when you get your machine, these can easily stretch during shipment (very common on this printer). You can compress it back temporarily, purchase another online, or do what I did, reach out to Hictop for a replacement. Hictop was very responsive, got a new one 2 days from sending an email. Easy to swap out, no big deal, very happy with customer service so far.
- Be sure to adjust the wheels on each axis, if you can spin the wheel and not move the axis, it needs a little adjustment (lots of great videos on setting up this printer online, watch a few while you wait to get your printer and you'll be all set here).
- The glass may not be flat, this is very common in this printer and many others. If you find it not quite level, purchase a pack of 12x12x12 mirrors on IKEA, or purchase replacement glass. You can also reach out to Hictop customer service to get it replaced. This is a common issue on larger printer beds and glass, so it's not isolated to this product.
- Cura is the software you are referenced to use, I don't use this software but have heard great things. I can tell you that if you use simplify3d software, do not use the default profile for CR-10 in their software (if you do, you need to adjust starting g-code otherwise you'll run the nozzle across the binder clips holding the glass on). Uncle Jessy and other profiles are out on the web, join the facebook CR-10 group and you'll get tons of help, including from me!
- There is a micro SD card in the jump drive, you can try test prints directly from that on the printer.

Once you get up and running, there are some parts you will want to print to help make your life and the life of your printer last much much longer! Find these on thingiverse or similar sites, search for CR-10 on there and you'll find tons:

- Strain Relief part for the bed heater cables - you will assemble this between the spring and bottom plate of the bed, zip time the power cables to it and you'll not have to worry about breaking wires or solder joints on the bed.
- Large bed leveling knobs - get the big ones, this makes adjusting bed level so easy compared to trying to reach the factory tiny knobs that it comes with.
- Filament guide - This keeps your filament from rubbing the z axis, while that won't really hurt it, it keeps the filament from picking up grease from the threaded z rod.
- Control Box Legs or Extensions - there are some out there that will help keep your control box from tipping if you get a little tangle on the filament reel (it's mounted on top of it, so this can cause it to tip over). Also some have places to hold tools, SD cards, octoprint boxes, etc....
- Camera Holder - many of these out there, I got one installed on the bed so it moved with the bed to keep things in focus and up close.

Lastly, I'll leave you with some pictures of my printer, setup, and the first benchy test print I did before making any adjustments to my printer so you can see how this printer prints out of the box; as well as some tips.

- Don't get frustrated, ask for help. This can be a great first printer or a great printer for your 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and so on. Many of the issues that you may have will be operator error or settings you put into your slicer program. Ask for help, I'm on reddit and facebook forums to help all the time, others are too.
- First layer adhesion and bed level is extremely important. You are going to want to either print on the glass direct, put tape on the glass, or buy a PEI sheet to print on. if you do the glass or tape route, aqua net purple can unscented hair spray is the best, spray the bed down good, use a razor to scrape it off when it gets too built up. Adhesion is your friend, not too much, not too little.
- Build yourself and octoprint box from a raspberry pi to monitor your prints remotely, to start them remotely, lots of great videos on how to do this. I have one on mine, works perfect, and I get time lapse videos of my prints.
- PLA will clog nozzles over time. One tip, put a little dab of canola oil on the filament just before it goes in the extruder every 50 hours of print time and you'll help prevent build ups from happening. If you run other materials or change back and forth with other materials, no need.

Again, ask for help if you get stuck or have issues. Great printer, very happy with quality of this, and the large build platform is awesome.
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on May 15, 2017
The unit came and it really does only take a few minutes to put it together. Everything is prefabricated and all you do is plug the connectors on the wires into the connectors on the motors. You also have to connect the horizontal aluminum frame to the base with a few bolts (4) and brackets on each side. That's it.

Gotchas: 1) It comes on 220 volts. In the US, you need to flip the switch to 110. 2) The instructions don't tell you to connect the white Teflon tube to the Extruder motor (motor on the top part). Push the tube into the white part on the side and fish the filament through from the other side. The spring on it lets you pull it back out if you press it. BTW, software instructions are on the SD card.
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on August 7, 2017
Get it! You will not regret it!
I spent months researching different printers before i landed on this one. The main selling points: Huge print area 300x300x400, heated bed for ABS, and the kicker: it's already assembled. The best DIY setup out there, hands down. I was up and printing in less than 30 minutes after delivery. I highly recommend that your first prints be upgrades such as the fan duct, filiment guide, hot wire support, and frame supports for stability; all of which can be found for free at Thingaverse. I spent my entire first week printing off various upgrades to my machine to increase stability and print quality. For this price, it simply cannot be beat!
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on June 13, 2017
For those that don't know, this is in fact the CR-10. I have one and can verify by direct comparison. This is a fantastic printer for the price. Getting it here on Amazon with prime shipping at $130 more than the one from Gearbest is just fine with me. I had it in 2 days, which is far better than waiting over a month from China like my first one. You will not be disappointed in the slightest. If you are new to 3D printing, this is the best possible bang for your buck at the moment. All the reviews confirm this as well as my own. If you have issues, it is quite likely, unless there was a serious error from the manufacturer, it is on your end and well worth the time and patience to figure it out and join the CR-10 group on Facebook. Happy 3D Printing!!!
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on September 5, 2017
First off the machine worked great for the first month, out of the box it ran as intended, but i noticed it was a real hassle to level the bed, which at first i put down to it being a large bed and a manual leveling system. Later i realized that my bed was slightly warped so the middle was higher than the rest, it didn't stop me from printing for the most part but it made it harder to use the full print space. I wasn't using the heated bed at this time because i was going in phases, turns out once you heat up the bed to about 70 degrees the bed actually evens out more, i don't know if this is design or accident but it works. the detached control box works well enough, more of a nuisance when moving it than anything else but once you have it in a permanent home not a problem. There is a slight gap in between the sd card slot and the actual housing and i dropped the sd card in there once when i was just getting used to the machine, had to pop it open and fish around the internals to get it out but once you know its there its easy to avoid. I did try using the usb connection to print directly from a computer but i personally didn't like it, after a while sometimes it loses connection or the computer will go to sleep and that will make-it lose connection, i only tried it twice and believe i could have eventually gotten it to work if i spent the time and energy to figure out the exact conditions that would have been needed to work but the space i was going to have the printer on wasn't big enough for a laptop anyways so i gave up pretty quickly on it.

Now comes the difficult part, the wires that connected the control box to the heated bed are just soldered straight to the bed, they don't have any real solid connections, after about a month and a half of use one of the wires snapped off a few cm away from where it was connected to the heated bed. This was due to the bed moving back and forth and the wires being free floating behind it and over time the bending became to much, with some help from my father since i had never soldered anything before i managed to get that wire connected back and working again, but only for a day because than a different wire snapped in half to, requiring us to solder that back on to. This one we had a heck of a time with and after a few hours we got it back on and the bed has been working for a few days now. But it never feels good when you have to do self repair on something like that which, in my honest opinion, should have something integrated into the design to reduce stress on the wires, i suggest wrapping them in some electrical tape right off the bat.

The good- Other than that it has easily taken everything i have thrown at it, cheap filament nice filament taking it apart several times and putting it back together, and even with a warped bed the print quality on this machine is superb, right out of the box it printed magnificent, i didnt even need to do a benchy to get it working well, the only thing i changed was the the retraction distance to reduce stringing.
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