- Save 20% on extruder kit of CR-10/10S when you purchase 1 or more Qualifying items offered by HIC Technology. Enter code F7RMOUG4 at checkout. Here's how (restrictions apply)
- Save 20% on heated bed tape when you purchase 1 or more Qualifying items offered by HIC Technology. Enter code Y5PSWKPH at checkout. Here's how (restrictions apply)
- Receive 1 kg white abs free when you purchase 1 or more Qualifying items offered by HIC Technology. Enter code H7LN3LXS at checkout. Here's how (restrictions apply)
- Receive 1 KG Black PLA free when you purchase 1 or more Qualifying items offered by HIC Technology. Enter code 8T9EG62T at checkout. Here's how (restrictions apply)
HICTOP Creality CR-10 3D Printer Prusa I3 DIY Kit Aluminum Large Print Size 300x300x400mm
Fulfillment by Amazon (FBA) is a service we offer sellers that lets them store their products in Amazon's fulfillment centers, and we directly pack, ship, and provide customer service for these products. Something we hope you'll especially enjoy: FBA items qualify for FREE Shipping and Amazon Prime.
If you're a seller, Fulfillment by Amazon can help you increase your sales. We invite you to learn more about Fulfillment by Amazon .
Specifications for this item
|Number of Items||1|
Frequently bought together
Customers who bought this item also bought
Special offers and product promotions
High Accuracy, Big Printing Volume, Stable, Low noisy
Are you still looking for a big assembled 3D printer? Then this is the one that you deserve to have. It comes with three parts, it just needs a few steps to build up. This machine(3DP-20) has big printing capacity. You can print a big model with an i3 printer. NO soldering, NO measuring. It is easy to do calibration. Every printer must have a more than 2-4 hours test printing before shipping. We will make sure all printers are in good condition. REMOTE FEEDING mode makes the extruder more lighter, faster and stable.
It comes with three parts. It only takes a few steps to build it up, it is very easy and you just need about 10 mintues to build. All wires are attached with lables, Don't worry about wrong wiring. All you have to do is hook everything up.
Printing Size： 300*300*400mm
Layer thickness: 0.05-0.4mm (adjustable)
Nozzle temp: 250 degree
Extruder temperature: PLA: 210
Hot bed temperature: PLA: 50
Printing Speed：Normal: 80mm/s, Max.: 200mm/s
Working condition temp: 10-30℃, Humidity:20-50%
Nozzle: 0.4mm, 0.3mm, 0.2mm
This 3DP-20 can print big models, the max printing size is 300x300x400mm/11x11x15 inches.
It also could be upgraded to 500x500x500cm if you need.
Continuous working time last more than 2-4 hours.
Extruder quantity: 1
Body Structure: Imported V-Slot Aluminum Bearings
Nozzle Diameter：Standard 0.4mm
Printing Method: TF card(off-line), contact to the PC(online)
LCD screen: 3 inch LCD screen with aircraft knob
Power supply: input: 110-240V output: 12V/30A
Hot bed: 4mm aluminum alloy platform, 3mm special tempered glass
Operating Software：CURA、Repetier-Host simplify 3D
Software supporting: PROE, Solid-works, UG, 3d Max, Rhino 3D design software, etc.
Cura language: English
Interface language: English
Format : STL, G-Code
Operating System: Linux, Windows, OSX
High accuracy bearings and quality parts, it makes the printer much more stable and quiet when printing.
Product Size: 490*600*615mm
Package Size: 540*640*310 mm
Net Weight: 10.3kg
Gross Weight: 14kg
The hot bed is aluminum PCD board. There is also a glass board attached, No worry about bent heated bed. Flat bed platform with big printing size
*HICTOP 3D printer DIY kits (including build plate and tempered glass)
*Spare screws and Wrench kits
*Assembly instructions and user manual.
*TF card*1(the user manual is in TF card)
*0.2kg PLA Filament
All in one design, the control board, LCD and power supply are designed together. It is safe, easy and good-looking.
Would you like to tell us about a lower price?
Top customer reviews
Warped bed plate kind of sucks. Thinking of trying to print the wedge to try to level it. Have only had it a week or so, so trying to decide how much that matters to me. If you order it, check those two things immediately.
Update: After reading my review they sent out a new aluminum plate. Haven’t had a chance to swap it yet, but just for customer service alone I’m upping to 4 stars.
This CR-10 model has been on my radar for some time, and I don't regret the purchase. Assembly is very easy, 15-20 minutes (a few bolts, couple brackets, and then connecting wires (each set of wires has a yellow plastic piece with X, Y, Z, or E on them to know what axis motor to connect to. The bed heater and extruder have different pins in the connector so you can't mix them up as they will only fit in one place on the control box. This is the same as the yellow creality version, exact same printer other than Hictop name on the controller (all the motors and other parts say creality on them). Some items to be aware of / potential issues you may encounter:
- Check the Z axis coupler when you get your machine, these can easily stretch during shipment (very common on this printer). You can compress it back temporarily, purchase another online, or do what I did, reach out to Hictop for a replacement. Hictop was very responsive, got a new one 2 days from sending an email. Easy to swap out, no big deal, very happy with customer service so far.
- Be sure to adjust the wheels on each axis, if you can spin the wheel and not move the axis, it needs a little adjustment (lots of great videos on setting up this printer online, watch a few while you wait to get your printer and you'll be all set here).
- The glass may not be flat, this is very common in this printer and many others. If you find it not quite level, purchase a pack of 12x12x12 mirrors on IKEA, or purchase replacement glass. You can also reach out to Hictop customer service to get it replaced. This is a common issue on larger printer beds and glass, so it's not isolated to this product.
- Cura is the software you are referenced to use, I don't use this software but have heard great things. I can tell you that if you use simplify3d software, do not use the default profile for CR-10 in their software (if you do, you need to adjust starting g-code otherwise you'll run the nozzle across the binder clips holding the glass on). Uncle Jessy and other profiles are out on the web, join the facebook CR-10 group and you'll get tons of help, including from me!
- There is a micro SD card in the jump drive, you can try test prints directly from that on the printer.
Once you get up and running, there are some parts you will want to print to help make your life and the life of your printer last much much longer! Find these on thingiverse or similar sites, search for CR-10 on there and you'll find tons:
- Strain Relief part for the bed heater cables - you will assemble this between the spring and bottom plate of the bed, zip time the power cables to it and you'll not have to worry about breaking wires or solder joints on the bed.
- Large bed leveling knobs - get the big ones, this makes adjusting bed level so easy compared to trying to reach the factory tiny knobs that it comes with.
- Filament guide - This keeps your filament from rubbing the z axis, while that won't really hurt it, it keeps the filament from picking up grease from the threaded z rod.
- Control Box Legs or Extensions - there are some out there that will help keep your control box from tipping if you get a little tangle on the filament reel (it's mounted on top of it, so this can cause it to tip over). Also some have places to hold tools, SD cards, octoprint boxes, etc....
- Camera Holder - many of these out there, I got one installed on the bed so it moved with the bed to keep things in focus and up close.
Lastly, I'll leave you with some pictures of my printer, setup, and the first benchy test print I did before making any adjustments to my printer so you can see how this printer prints out of the box; as well as some tips.
- Don't get frustrated, ask for help. This can be a great first printer or a great printer for your 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and so on. Many of the issues that you may have will be operator error or settings you put into your slicer program. Ask for help, I'm on reddit and facebook forums to help all the time, others are too.
- First layer adhesion and bed level is extremely important. You are going to want to either print on the glass direct, put tape on the glass, or buy a PEI sheet to print on. if you do the glass or tape route, aqua net purple can unscented hair spray is the best, spray the bed down good, use a razor to scrape it off when it gets too built up. Adhesion is your friend, not too much, not too little.
- Build yourself and octoprint box from a raspberry pi to monitor your prints remotely, to start them remotely, lots of great videos on how to do this. I have one on mine, works perfect, and I get time lapse videos of my prints.
- PLA will clog nozzles over time. One tip, put a little dab of canola oil on the filament just before it goes in the extruder every 50 hours of print time and you'll help prevent build ups from happening. If you run other materials or change back and forth with other materials, no need.
Again, ask for help if you get stuck or have issues. Great printer, very happy with quality of this, and the large build platform is awesome.
Most recent customer reviews
The tempered glass that it came with is warped.Read more