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Product Description
Easy Assembly
This 3D Printer comes with pre-assembled parts, all and spare parts will be included, it will take about 1 hour to put all parts together well. The assembly video insctruction is included in the SD card.
The printer comes with the heated bed, it supports PLA/ABS/Soft rubber/wood etc.
Each printer will print more than 12 hours before shipment, we will make sure every printer works great. Then they will be disassembled and packed well.
3D Printer for Adult and Children
This printer is light with middle printing size 5.9x5.9x7.8 inches., it only has 9.2 lb. If you are new to 3d printing, then this is the one you deserve to have. Low price, easy to assemble and small body are suitable for your children. It will take your children to a wonderful 3d printing world.
Net weight: 4.2KG Loading weight: 5.5kg
Printing size: 150×150×200mm Machine size: 300*330*540mm
Packing size: 445*400*115mm Filament: PLA/ABS/Soft rubber/wood etc.
Filament diameter: 1.75mm Nozzle diameter: default 0.4mm, support 0.3 / 0.2mm
Speed: 100mm/s Accuracy: ±0.1mm
Working mode: Online or SD offline Printing thickness: 0.1-0.4 adjustable
Voltage: 12V Rated power: 120W
Actual power: 100W Power requirement: 110-240V input: 12V output
File Format: STL,OBJ, JPG, PNG, Gcode Operating page: English
Drawing interface: English Software: Cura,Repetier-Host,simplify3D
Operating system: WIN, XP, MAC, Linux, Vista
Customer Questions & Answers
Customer reviews
Top reviews from the United States
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Reviewed in the United States on June 14, 2017
Verified Purchase
Awesome 300x300x400 print volume - easy assembly, minimal adjustments and tweaking to perfect prints.
Reviewed in the United States on September 1, 2017Verified Purchase
Awesome 300x300x400 print volume - easy assembly, minimal adjustments and tweaking to perfect prints.
By Infidex on September 1, 2017
Some background on me, I'm a very avid 3d Printer, having several machines from plug & play to kits, as well as some custom home built printers I made from scratch. I have printers from 100 x 100 x 100mm build platform to 1000 x 1000 x 500mm built platform. My formal education is in plastics engineering and polymer science, so I have great in-depth knowledge of thermoplastics and lead our additive manufacturing technology areas at work.By Infidex on September 1, 2017
This CR-10 model has been on my radar for some time, and I don't regret the purchase. Assembly is very easy, 15-20 minutes (a few bolts, couple brackets, and then connecting wires (each set of wires has a yellow plastic piece with X, Y, Z, or E on them to know what axis motor to connect to. The bed heater and extruder have different pins in the connector so you can't mix them up as they will only fit in one place on the control box. This is the same as the yellow creality version, exact same printer other than Hictop name on the controller (all the motors and other parts say creality on them). Some items to be aware of / potential issues you may encounter:
- Check the Z axis coupler when you get your machine, these can easily stretch during shipment (very common on this printer). You can compress it back temporarily, purchase another online, or do what I did, reach out to Hictop for a replacement. Hictop was very responsive, got a new one 2 days from sending an email. Easy to swap out, no big deal, very happy with customer service so far.
- Be sure to adjust the wheels on each axis, if you can spin the wheel and not move the axis, it needs a little adjustment (lots of great videos on setting up this printer online, watch a few while you wait to get your printer and you'll be all set here).
- The glass may not be flat, this is very common in this printer and many others. If you find it not quite level, purchase a pack of 12x12x12 mirrors on IKEA, or purchase replacement glass. You can also reach out to Hictop customer service to get it replaced. This is a common issue on larger printer beds and glass, so it's not isolated to this product.
- Cura is the software you are referenced to use, I don't use this software but have heard great things. I can tell you that if you use simplify3d software, do not use the default profile for CR-10 in their software (if you do, you need to adjust starting g-code otherwise you'll run the nozzle across the binder clips holding the glass on). Uncle Jessy and other profiles are out on the web, join the facebook CR-10 group and you'll get tons of help, including from me!
- There is a micro SD card in the jump drive, you can try test prints directly from that on the printer.
Once you get up and running, there are some parts you will want to print to help make your life and the life of your printer last much much longer! Find these on thingiverse or similar sites, search for CR-10 on there and you'll find tons:
- Strain Relief part for the bed heater cables - you will assemble this between the spring and bottom plate of the bed, zip time the power cables to it and you'll not have to worry about breaking wires or solder joints on the bed.
- Large bed leveling knobs - get the big ones, this makes adjusting bed level so easy compared to trying to reach the factory tiny knobs that it comes with.
- Filament guide - This keeps your filament from rubbing the z axis, while that won't really hurt it, it keeps the filament from picking up grease from the threaded z rod.
- Control Box Legs or Extensions - there are some out there that will help keep your control box from tipping if you get a little tangle on the filament reel (it's mounted on top of it, so this can cause it to tip over). Also some have places to hold tools, SD cards, octoprint boxes, etc....
- Camera Holder - many of these out there, I got one installed on the bed so it moved with the bed to keep things in focus and up close.
Lastly, I'll leave you with some pictures of my printer, setup, and the first benchy test print I did before making any adjustments to my printer so you can see how this printer prints out of the box; as well as some tips.
- Don't get frustrated, ask for help. This can be a great first printer or a great printer for your 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and so on. Many of the issues that you may have will be operator error or settings you put into your slicer program. Ask for help, I'm on reddit and facebook forums to help all the time, others are too.
- First layer adhesion and bed level is extremely important. You are going to want to either print on the glass direct, put tape on the glass, or buy a PEI sheet to print on. if you do the glass or tape route, aqua net purple can unscented hair spray is the best, spray the bed down good, use a razor to scrape it off when it gets too built up. Adhesion is your friend, not too much, not too little.
- Build yourself and octoprint box from a raspberry pi to monitor your prints remotely, to start them remotely, lots of great videos on how to do this. I have one on mine, works perfect, and I get time lapse videos of my prints.
- PLA will clog nozzles over time. One tip, put a little dab of canola oil on the filament just before it goes in the extruder every 50 hours of print time and you'll help prevent build ups from happening. If you run other materials or change back and forth with other materials, no need.
Again, ask for help if you get stuck or have issues. Great printer, very happy with quality of this, and the large build platform is awesome.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States on October 18, 2017
Verified Purchase
Top reviews from other countries
Oscar
Best thing since sliced bread
Reviewed in Canada on September 25, 2017Verified Purchase
Best thing since sliced bread
Reviewed in Canada on September 25, 2017
I delayed the review for about a month or so so I can be objective. It was literally printing all days and nights straight since I got it.Reviewed in Canada on September 25, 2017
First as always amazon shipping rocks. People who order it from asia wait for weeks and after import duties and shipping the difference is not that much in price.
Second the HICTOP company - there was a part missing in the package, non essential, but missing. Contacted HICTOP, got reply the same day that they are sending me replacement part. Got it in about 2 weeks plus some screws few other spare parts and a freebie. Missing part sucks, yes, but I take great support over that any day and HICTOP did everything as fast as they could to fix it, so no issues here.
Now the printer - Iike I said, I had been printing since I've got it without stopping - everything, from junk and toys to actually useful stuff and stuff I designed. You can go to thingiverse and look up Oscarko. And yet not a single failed print. Seriously everything was 10/10 (knock on wooden filament). Almost unreal, when you consider that people still in this day have issues with printers from kickstarter etc... and the output quality is among the best I ever seen.
Now after assembly - check all the screws, joints and bearings for play. Nothing should be wobbly. All should feel tight.
First thing I build was a full enclosure and vent it out from my basement window. Yes, urban legend has it that PLA is very safe being made out of starch and pixie dust and whatnot. Right, I heard that story million times! The PLA of today is not just a plain vanilla PLA (that stuff was brittle, didn't adhere to itself and you could break it just by looking at it). Modern PLA is full of plasticizes, additives, color powders and who knows what. Yes it works wonders now - almost as good as any modern plastic I ever used, but you don't really want to breath the fumes day and night! And having CR-10 you will be printing day and night!
Making the enclosure was absolutely worth it and CR-10 is build for enclosure with the separated control board.
Bed: I tried the sticky tape I've got with the printer for the bed - just once, since then I use 60 degree heated bed and the washable purple glue stick directly over the glass. Absolutely perfect.Learn how to remove things from the glass - use razor blade at first, then get a thin spatula when you get comfortable yanking plastic out of glass.
The printer keeps level like no other I heard of - I don't even bother checking for level anymore before print. Every while I will recheck it, or when I put some upgrade or change something or bump into things too much.
As for upgrades: don't just start making mods, there are only few things that are worth, the printer by itself is excellent. The first thing is the support bracket for the bed heater cables - this is a must, the bed moves and within weeks or months the soldered joint will have fail - no other choice. This has been known for long time, yet still the same faulty design. Support bracket from thingiverse will fix this! Second mod is to put the large leveling knobs. (The giant cart wheel ones) Those small one are so hard to turn precisely. Buy the micro SD to SD card extender cable on amazon with your printer. Not sure who thought that micro SD card is a good thing to use on daily basis. Probably someone who has very tiny fingers and eagle eyesight. That's it everything else is optional and take your time, don't rush with it.
The optional upgrades and mods would be: get raspberry pi 3, logitech C615 and astroprint. I tried octoprint before but I run into issues when it will randomly disconnect (I am not alone as it turns out) . With astroprint I had been printing big and small, long and short - without a hiccup, not a single issue. I sit in my office and send the files directly over wifi to the raspberry pi in the basement, then check on camera in my browser (google chrome works great, firefox don't like the streaming format)
Fans: they used small cheap fans in the control box and it is a bit like airplane starting. Replace the 50mm inside for $10 silent one and print an adapter for the 30mm on the wall so you can use 60mm (the 30 mm is a screamer with high RPM trying to push air). Now the control box is like 10 times more quiet. No need to go overboard, I've got the fractal design silent series - day and night difference.
That's mostly it - don't get tempted with any of the UN-necessary mods like replacing hotend (the light stock hotend is perfect, just get spare) or adding any of the nozzle cooling contraptions some people devised. This will make the head assembly heavier and you will potentially start having issues with quality on larger pieces. And it is not needed. or at least don't get tempted from the beginning, get to know the printer as it is, then you will be able to judge if you made it better or worse. I did add the dampers to X and Y step motors which reduces vibrations and bit noise (but the vibrations didn't cause problems anyway). There was no difference in quality of print.
As for filament, I've got like 5 spools of the Amz3d right from amazon - it is a perfect filament - strong never brittle, print like butter. For the price you can't get better for this printer. I print at 216 with 60 bed. And the bonus is - the spool hole is the exact size for the spool holder for CR-10.
I've also got one hatchbox filament - also good, but no difference from AMZ3d. Don't try to save 2 bucks on untested mee-too filaments, go what others use.
I don't remember when I had such fun for so long....there is always something to make.
Images in this review
jem
Review from a noob for noobs
Reviewed in Canada on February 7, 2018Verified Purchase
Canadian Porkchop
Way too high maintenance
Reviewed in Canada on September 3, 2017Verified Purchase
Parisien D.
Great printer as long as you don't mind tinkering with it in the beginning.
Reviewed in Canada on November 22, 2017Verified Purchase
datagod
Easy to assemble, produces high quality prints
Reviewed in Canada on January 4, 2018Verified Purchase
