HICTOP Creality Open Source CR-10 3D Printer All Metal Frame 12x12x15.5 Inch Build Volume and Heated Bed Includes Glass Bed
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- EASY ASSEMBLY: Delivery with three sets, just need about 10 minutes to assemble well.
- PRINTING SIZE: Prints max size of 300X300X400mm. No longer will you be limited to small models.
- LONG SERVICE LIFE: Imported Linear navigation with low friction. Industrial-grade PCB can continuously print for 200 hours without pressure
- HEATING BED: Industrial grade aluminum alloy platform&special tempered glass to ensure the formation of flat and to prevent wear and tear. Easy to take out the model.
- EASY WIRING: Wires are already connected to the control board & cables are also attached,easy for wiring.
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High Accuracy, Big Printing Volume, Stable, Low noisy
Are you still looking for a big assembled 3D printer? Then this is the one that you deserve to have. It comes with three parts, it just needs a few steps to build up. This machine(3DP-20) has big printing capacity. You can print a big model with an i3 printer. NO soldering, NO measuring. It is easy to do calibration. Every printer must have a more than 2-4 hours test printing before shipping. We will make sure all printers are in good condition. REMOTE FEEDING mode makes the extruder more lighter, faster and stable.
It comes with three parts. It only takes a few steps to build it up, it is very easy and you just need about 10 mintues to build. All wires are attached with lables, Don't worry about wrong wiring. All you have to do is hook everything up.
Printing Size： 300*300*400mm
Layer thickness: 0.05-0.4mm (adjustable)
Nozzle temp: 250 degree
Extruder temperature: PLA: 210
Hot bed temperature: PLA: 50
Printing Speed：Normal: 80mm/s, Max.: 200mm/s
Working condition temp: 10-30℃, Humidity:20-50%
Nozzle: 0.4mm, 0.3mm, 0.2mm
This 3DP-20 can print big models, the max printing size is 300x300x400mm/11x11x15 inches.
It also could be upgraded to 500x500x500cm if you need.
Continuous working time last more than 100 hours.
Extruder quantity: 1
Body Structure: Imported V-Slot Aluminum Bearings
Nozzle Diameter：Standard 0.4mm
Printing Method: TF card(off-line), contact to the PC(online)
LCD screen: 3 inch LCD screen with aircraft knob
Power supply: input: 110-240V output: 12V/30A
Hot bed: 4mm aluminum alloy platform, 3mm special tempered glass
Operating Software：CURA、Repetier-Host simplify 3D
Software supporting: PROE, Solid-works, UG, 3d Max, Rhino 3D design software, etc.
Cura language: English
Interface language: English
Format : STL, G-Code
Operating System: Linux, Windows, OSX
High accuracy bearings and quality parts, it makes the printer much more stable and quiet when printing.
Product Size: 490*600*615mm
Package Size: 540*640*310 mm
Net Weight: 10.3kg
Gross Weight: 14kg
The hot bed is aluminum PCD board. There is also a glass board attached, No worry about bent heated bed. Flat bed platform with big printing size
*HICTOP 3D printer DIY kits (including build plate and tempered glass)
*Spare screws and Wrench kits
*Assembly instructions and user manual.
*TF card*1(the user manual is in TF card)
*0.2kg PLA Filament
All in one design, the control board, LCD and power supply are designed together. It is safe, easy and good-looking.
- Is Discontinued By Manufacturer : No
- Product Dimensions : 23.62 x 19.29 x 24.21 inches; 22.71 Pounds
- Item model number : 3DP20
- Date First Available : March 22, 2017
- Manufacturer : HICTOP
- ASIN : B06XSF5MGT
Best Sellers Rank:
#138,023 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific)
- #305 in 3D Printers
- Customer Reviews:
Top reviews from the United States
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This CR-10 model has been on my radar for some time, and I don't regret the purchase. Assembly is very easy, 15-20 minutes (a few bolts, couple brackets, and then connecting wires (each set of wires has a yellow plastic piece with X, Y, Z, or E on them to know what axis motor to connect to. The bed heater and extruder have different pins in the connector so you can't mix them up as they will only fit in one place on the control box. This is the same as the yellow creality version, exact same printer other than Hictop name on the controller (all the motors and other parts say creality on them). Some items to be aware of / potential issues you may encounter:
- Check the Z axis coupler when you get your machine, these can easily stretch during shipment (very common on this printer). You can compress it back temporarily, purchase another online, or do what I did, reach out to Hictop for a replacement. Hictop was very responsive, got a new one 2 days from sending an email. Easy to swap out, no big deal, very happy with customer service so far.
- Be sure to adjust the wheels on each axis, if you can spin the wheel and not move the axis, it needs a little adjustment (lots of great videos on setting up this printer online, watch a few while you wait to get your printer and you'll be all set here).
- The glass may not be flat, this is very common in this printer and many others. If you find it not quite level, purchase a pack of 12x12x12 mirrors on IKEA, or purchase replacement glass. You can also reach out to Hictop customer service to get it replaced. This is a common issue on larger printer beds and glass, so it's not isolated to this product.
- Cura is the software you are referenced to use, I don't use this software but have heard great things. I can tell you that if you use simplify3d software, do not use the default profile for CR-10 in their software (if you do, you need to adjust starting g-code otherwise you'll run the nozzle across the binder clips holding the glass on). Uncle Jessy and other profiles are out on the web, join the facebook CR-10 group and you'll get tons of help, including from me!
- There is a micro SD card in the jump drive, you can try test prints directly from that on the printer.
Once you get up and running, there are some parts you will want to print to help make your life and the life of your printer last much much longer! Find these on thingiverse or similar sites, search for CR-10 on there and you'll find tons:
- Strain Relief part for the bed heater cables - you will assemble this between the spring and bottom plate of the bed, zip time the power cables to it and you'll not have to worry about breaking wires or solder joints on the bed.
- Large bed leveling knobs - get the big ones, this makes adjusting bed level so easy compared to trying to reach the factory tiny knobs that it comes with.
- Filament guide - This keeps your filament from rubbing the z axis, while that won't really hurt it, it keeps the filament from picking up grease from the threaded z rod.
- Control Box Legs or Extensions - there are some out there that will help keep your control box from tipping if you get a little tangle on the filament reel (it's mounted on top of it, so this can cause it to tip over). Also some have places to hold tools, SD cards, octoprint boxes, etc....
- Camera Holder - many of these out there, I got one installed on the bed so it moved with the bed to keep things in focus and up close.
Lastly, I'll leave you with some pictures of my printer, setup, and the first benchy test print I did before making any adjustments to my printer so you can see how this printer prints out of the box; as well as some tips.
- Don't get frustrated, ask for help. This can be a great first printer or a great printer for your 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and so on. Many of the issues that you may have will be operator error or settings you put into your slicer program. Ask for help, I'm on reddit and facebook forums to help all the time, others are too.
- First layer adhesion and bed level is extremely important. You are going to want to either print on the glass direct, put tape on the glass, or buy a PEI sheet to print on. if you do the glass or tape route, aqua net purple can unscented hair spray is the best, spray the bed down good, use a razor to scrape it off when it gets too built up. Adhesion is your friend, not too much, not too little.
- Build yourself and octoprint box from a raspberry pi to monitor your prints remotely, to start them remotely, lots of great videos on how to do this. I have one on mine, works perfect, and I get time lapse videos of my prints.
- PLA will clog nozzles over time. One tip, put a little dab of canola oil on the filament just before it goes in the extruder every 50 hours of print time and you'll help prevent build ups from happening. If you run other materials or change back and forth with other materials, no need.
Again, ask for help if you get stuck or have issues. Great printer, very happy with quality of this, and the large build platform is awesome.
1. The Creality CR-10 (not the blue Hictop but the Orange ones) have received many upgrades over the past 6 months that are NOT included in this model. This is basically the original, with all the original problems, such as the fan director on the extruder, the curved and sharp glass, the SD card slot that's hard to get the card into sometimes, the knob on the control unit that very often double-scrolls past your selection, etc. Not deal breakers, but for a slightly lower price you can get a newer non Hictop version that has these already fixed.... or you can get this one and print a bunch of upgrade parts, which is what I'm currently doing.
2. Some parts off the setup were really challenging... the X axis limit switch cable was impossible to plug in, so I had to disassemble the switch housing, remove the switch board, plug the cable in, and reassemble the housing. Leveling the hotbed with those little screws is hard on the fingertips.
Other than the above points, the few prints I've made so far are absolutely awesome! So... it's a good and affordable 3D printer, but maybe get the newer CR-10's from Creality instead of Amazon.
Top reviews from other countries
First as always amazon shipping rocks. People who order it from asia wait for weeks and after import duties and shipping the difference is not that much in price.
Second the HICTOP company - there was a part missing in the package, non essential, but missing. Contacted HICTOP, got reply the same day that they are sending me replacement part. Got it in about 2 weeks plus some screws few other spare parts and a freebie. Missing part sucks, yes, but I take great support over that any day and HICTOP did everything as fast as they could to fix it, so no issues here.
Now the printer - Iike I said, I had been printing since I've got it without stopping - everything, from junk and toys to actually useful stuff and stuff I designed. You can go to thingiverse and look up Oscarko. And yet not a single failed print. Seriously everything was 10/10 (knock on wooden filament). Almost unreal, when you consider that people still in this day have issues with printers from kickstarter etc... and the output quality is among the best I ever seen.
Now after assembly - check all the screws, joints and bearings for play. Nothing should be wobbly. All should feel tight.
First thing I build was a full enclosure and vent it out from my basement window. Yes, urban legend has it that PLA is very safe being made out of starch and pixie dust and whatnot. Right, I heard that story million times! The PLA of today is not just a plain vanilla PLA (that stuff was brittle, didn't adhere to itself and you could break it just by looking at it). Modern PLA is full of plasticizes, additives, color powders and who knows what. Yes it works wonders now - almost as good as any modern plastic I ever used, but you don't really want to breath the fumes day and night! And having CR-10 you will be printing day and night!
Making the enclosure was absolutely worth it and CR-10 is build for enclosure with the separated control board.
Bed: I tried the sticky tape I've got with the printer for the bed - just once, since then I use 60 degree heated bed and the washable purple glue stick directly over the glass. Absolutely perfect.Learn how to remove things from the glass - use razor blade at first, then get a thin spatula when you get comfortable yanking plastic out of glass.
The printer keeps level like no other I heard of - I don't even bother checking for level anymore before print. Every while I will recheck it, or when I put some upgrade or change something or bump into things too much.
As for upgrades: don't just start making mods, there are only few things that are worth, the printer by itself is excellent. The first thing is the support bracket for the bed heater cables - this is a must, the bed moves and within weeks or months the soldered joint will have fail - no other choice. This has been known for long time, yet still the same faulty design. Support bracket from thingiverse will fix this! Second mod is to put the large leveling knobs. (The giant cart wheel ones) Those small one are so hard to turn precisely. Buy the micro SD to SD card extender cable on amazon with your printer. Not sure who thought that micro SD card is a good thing to use on daily basis. Probably someone who has very tiny fingers and eagle eyesight. That's it everything else is optional and take your time, don't rush with it.
The optional upgrades and mods would be: get raspberry pi 3, logitech C615 and astroprint. I tried octoprint before but I run into issues when it will randomly disconnect (I am not alone as it turns out) . With astroprint I had been printing big and small, long and short - without a hiccup, not a single issue. I sit in my office and send the files directly over wifi to the raspberry pi in the basement, then check on camera in my browser (google chrome works great, firefox don't like the streaming format)
Fans: they used small cheap fans in the control box and it is a bit like airplane starting. Replace the 50mm inside for $10 silent one and print an adapter for the 30mm on the wall so you can use 60mm (the 30 mm is a screamer with high RPM trying to push air). Now the control box is like 10 times more quiet. No need to go overboard, I've got the fractal design silent series - day and night difference.
That's mostly it - don't get tempted with any of the UN-necessary mods like replacing hotend (the light stock hotend is perfect, just get spare) or adding any of the nozzle cooling contraptions some people devised. This will make the head assembly heavier and you will potentially start having issues with quality on larger pieces. And it is not needed. or at least don't get tempted from the beginning, get to know the printer as it is, then you will be able to judge if you made it better or worse. I did add the dampers to X and Y step motors which reduces vibrations and bit noise (but the vibrations didn't cause problems anyway). There was no difference in quality of print.
As for filament, I've got like 5 spools of the Amz3d right from amazon - it is a perfect filament - strong never brittle, print like butter. For the price you can't get better for this printer. I print at 216 with 60 bed. And the bonus is - the spool hole is the exact size for the spool holder for CR-10.
I've also got one hatchbox filament - also good, but no difference from AMZ3d. Don't try to save 2 bucks on untested mee-too filaments, go what others use.
I don't remember when I had such fun for so long....there is always something to make.
This printer is not difficult to assemble but I'd recommend searching Youtube to get a few pointers on what should be tweaked and tightened right away.
If I have one piece of advise to novice printers, its... level that bed. That can solve so many problems. It will take a little practice but once you done it a hundred times, it'll get easy. :) I use stock paper not regular paper and go for only a slight pull from the paper as I slide it with my fingers pushing down very lightly on either side of the nozzle.
- The belts you have to assemble and adjust yourself will take work. They're either too tight or too loose.
- The bed is loose on its rail, a little tap will tip it (If you get this issue, tighten the wheels underneath your bed, tools included will help).
- The feed motor for the filament had its mechanism loose, which I had to assemble (Wasn't in the instructions)
- The little file explorer slows down to a crawl (Taking 3+ seconds to switch items on a file list) if you have more than 3 files in the folder you're at
- The internal fan for the controller chips is making a lot of noise, I had to replace it myself
- The feed tube on top where you put your filaments will only work with the AMZ3D filaments, any other and you need something else to hold it.
- The bottom of the printer has no rubber pads, so unless you get some yourself, you'll have vibration issues on your printer and bad prints.
- There is a fan control in this printer but no fan to control. Had to add it myself (Not mentioned in the manual, etc..)
- Many more.
Get a better printer. Seriously.