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HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D

257 ratings

$21.95

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Customer Rating	(257)	(2507)	(1156)	(137)	(351)	(3467)
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Product Description

HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with die set. Crimp tool for D-Sub and Open Barrel Connectors. For use with AWG 18-22,24-30. For use with 4pin and 3pin Molex connectors. Specifications Model Number: HT-225D Material: Frame is made from middle carbon hardened steel; Die made of SAE J404C Alloy Steel Handle is rubber coated Black oxide finish Weight: 390g Crimping Range: AWG 18-22,24-30 Hanlong Industrial Co., LTD Tools MFR Since 1978

Product information

Technical Details

Manufacturer

‎Hanlong Industrail Co

Part Number

‎840556092698

Item Weight

‎15.2 ounces

Package Dimensions

‎11.3 x 4.7 x 0.7 inches

Item model number

‎HT-225D

Is Discontinued By Manufacturer

‎No

Item Package Quantity

‎1

Batteries Included?

‎No

Batteries Required?

‎No

Additional Information

ASIN

B007JLN93S

Customer Reviews

257 ratings

4.7 out of 5 stars

Best Sellers Rank

#229,467 in Tools & Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement)
#661 in Crimpers

Date First Available

March 12, 2012

Warranty & Support

Product Warranty: For warranty information about this product, please click here

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Customer reviews

5 star		81%
4 star		11%
3 star		3%
2 star		1%
1 star		3%

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Top reviews from the United States

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B-man

Excellent Molex Crimps Using 16 AWG

Reviewed in the United States on December 21, 2014

Verified Purchase

As most of the other reviews note, this crimping tool is absolutely an exceptional value, particularly at this price of just over twenty dollars. The crimper simultaneously crimps the two sets of tabs on the pin, one set for the insulation and the other for the conducting wire. Although the tool is rated for 18 AWG wires and hire, I was able to use them with 16 AWG wires and the 0.093 Molex connectors just fine. Going through the full range of compression (the full 6 clicks) with the 16 AWG was a bit too much and would end up over-bending the Molex pin, but releasing the crimp prematurely by engaging the release lever after 5 clicks resulted in a perfect crimp. I include pics here that show the crimps using the 16 AWG wire and how it's done using this tool. It doesn't come with instructions, and this was my first time using such a tool, so I had to research it online, watching youtube videos, etc. I hope this helps!

73 people found this helpful

Helpful

thehammer

Work Great for Pinball 0.156 and 0.100 Crimps

Reviewed in the United States on November 6, 2018

Verified Purchase

The reviews for this are all over the place, but I took a chance and ordered it and could not be happier. I do occasional plug replacements for pinball machine and these handle the common 0.156 and 0.100 connections. What is most helpful is the ratchet function that works to hold the crimp in place. This allows me to free up a hand to grab and insert the wire into place and complete the crimp.
I am not at all certain what all the negative reviews are about other than there does not seem to be other die sets available - so that is misleading. But the die set included here suits what I do perfectly.

6 people found this helpful

Helpful

MidWest

Nice ratcheting frame, less than desirable die set.

Reviewed in the United States on February 21, 2016

Verified Purchase

It could be a 2-4 star tool, depending on your needs. For me it did not work very well.
This is a review of the HT-225D Crimping Tool HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D

4 stars for the ratcheting tool frame.
2 stars for the die

The ratchet mechanism is not one of the problems. It works very well, though the ratchet release could be easier to work for early release when needed with one hand. That would avoid over crimping without resetting and readjusting the crimp stop depth when changing wire gauge or insulation thickness. That is a pretty minor issue though. The ratchet mechanism overall would get a 4 stars for function and 4.5-to 5 if the depth and/or release were easier to control/change..

Using Molex open barrel pins there are a few problems.

The real issue is the die set. The surface finish on the die set where the tool crimps and contacts the wire/pin is too rough and frequently grabs the edges of the metal and rotates the pins resulting in an undesirable crimp. Often I need to secure the position of the wire/pin with another pair of needle nose pliers or very firm finger pressure.

It also does not have camel-hump face on the top to re-curve the pin tabs back into the wire/jacket so they are not as secure as they could be when using other crimpers. With only two crimp size options you might or might not have the right size for your needs. Some Molex pins are $0.75+ per pin so mistakes and poor crimps can add up. The IWISS Dupont Professional Pin Compression Ratcheting Tool (sold under various names) IWISS Dupont Professional Pin Compression Ratcheting Modular Insulated Terminal Crimper Pin Crimping Tool 2.54mm 3.96mm 28-18AWG 0.1-1.0mm2 with Wire-electrode Cutting Die is the same price generally, has 3 crimp size combinations instead of 2 and the die set has tighter tolerances and a smoother finish on the crimp faces. It also shapes the crimp much more like the actual OEM Molex crimp tools and the wire seems harder to pull free in my testing.

I also did not see replacement dies for other types of crimps being very available as others commented for the HT-225D.

So there is my experience with this tool.

6 people found this helpful

Helpful

Rob59AZ

Excellent tool (but learn the details to get consistently good results)

Reviewed in the United States on April 7, 2015

Verified Purchase

What a revelation! I had been struggling with a Dupont (2.54mm) crimper (sold under many names: mine is a Weierli SN-28B). I inspected the tool in detail to understand how the crimping function worked, and tried many different approached and adjustments, yet I could not get it to work consistently. It took 3 steps to get anything acceptable (that would fit in the header). I finally gave up in frustration and ordered these.

I did the same inspection and a lot of research, and after a brief orientation period of trying different approaches I am now achieving excellent results with a very low failure rate (maybe 1 in 20). The are a couple of keys to success. First, the jaws have 2 different functions: crimping the tabs that go around the insulation and second, the tabs that go around the stripped part of the wire. Proper alignment is an absolute necessity to achieve the proper result. The connector must be inserted to the right depth (this varies with the male and female connectors), it must be flat and not twisted in the jaws. (Oh, and you have to use stranded wire, of course!) Some reviews have you align the connector on the left (looking down on the tool) but this is incorrect. The following works consistently for me:

1. Strip stranded (I used standard AWG22 stranded hookup wire) wire to 2.5mm for female, 3mm for male. This does not seem like much, but you only want enough length to cover the area under the wire-gripping tabs. Measure your connectors with calipers to ensure they are the same.
2. Close the crimper 1 click
3. Insert connector from the left with insulation-gripping tabs facing up
For the Dupont 2.54mm (0.1") connector (e.g Arduino boards) use the smaller opening (towards the end of the tool) even though it says
it is for 24-30 AWG wire.
4. Looking at the right side of the tool (from above) align end of wire-gripping tabs with the outside edge of the upper crimping jaw
5. Observing from the left, ensure the connector is perfectly flat along top of bottom jaw, centered, and not twisted in the channel
6. Insert wire at a slight angle, angling it slightly top to bottom inclined towards the crimper then aligning it parallel to the bottom jaw
(this is to clear the insulation tabs which stick up)
7. Observing the right side, ensure end of stripped portion of the wire aligns with the edge of the wire-gripping tabs, and then pull it back towards the left slightly so it is just inside the edge of the outer tab
8. Close the crimper the remaining 5 clicks and release

By following all these steps consistently, and doing so under a bright desk lamp so I could see everything in detail, I get nearly perfect results. It may seem like a lot of steps, but once you get the rhythm down, muscle memory takes over and this goes very quickly. You're also dealing with something very small, so accuracy and attention to detail matter a lot. The ultimate measure of success if the ease of which you can insert the connector into the header, and these will go in smoothly with minimal force and a satisfying click.

Now that I see the differences between the 2 tools, I understand now why the others are so terrible. This unit has curved faces on both jaws (in the Weirli, the top is flat) to help shape the insulation-gripping tabs rather than just flattening them. The jaw also has a slight rotating action as it closes, which seems to help the crimping process. The HT-225D also has much more surface area inside the channel (deeper walls) which helps to keep the connector aligned and not crushed. All of these small differences add up to much more than the sum of their parts.

Highly recommended. Hard to see how these realistically could be better. And still less expensive than other very similar crimpers I found online.

16 people found this helpful

Helpful