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Honda EU3000iS, 2800 Running Watts/3000 Starting Watts, Gas Powered, Portable Inverter
|Sale:||$2,049.99 & FREE Shipping|
Usually ships within 2 to 3 days.
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- Honda overhead valve engine for clean, consistent, reliable power
- Lightweight and compact for easy transport
- Runs up to 24 hours on a single tank for optimal fuel economy less back and forth
- Eco-Throttle mechanism for super efficient operation
- Totally enclosed motor produces only 48 to 58 decibels of sound for quiet operation
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|Color||Black & Red|
|Item Dimensions||19.8 x 13.25 x 22.3 inches|
|Legal Disclaimer||Never Used.|
|Manufacturer Part Number||EU3000IS|
|Shipping Weight||75.65 pounds|
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This item Honda EU3000iS, 2800 Running Watts/3000 Starting Watts, Gas Powered, Portable Inverter
WEN 56200i, 1600 Running Watts/2000 Starting Watts, 4-Stroke Gas Powered Portable Inverter Generator, CARB Compliant
|Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping|
|Sold By||Electric_Generator_Depot||Hardware Sales Inc.||PWC Parts||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com|
|Item Dimensions||13.25 x 22.3 x 19.8 in||16.75 x 20.13 x 11.4 in||1 x 1 x 1 in||29.8 x 33.3 x 28.7 in||11 x 19.3 x 17.9 in||11 x 18 x 18 in|
|Wattage||2,800 watts||1,600 watts||2,800 watts||4,000 watts||1,600 watts||1,600 watts|
Honda Power Equipment has you covered with its EU3000iS 3000 watt generator. This super quiet generator runs between 49 and 58 dBA and is great for powering, fans, tvs, lights, appliances, furnaces fridges, freezers, microwaves, and power tools. It features advanced inverter technology that gives you stable power for computers and laptops. If 3000 watts is not enough power to suit your needs you can purchase a second EU1000iS and a parallel cable to generate 6000 watts. This generator also is fuel efficient and can run for over 20 hours on a 3.4 gallon of gas.
Top customer reviews
Honda EU3000is Generator Remote Control Wiring
DISCLAIMER: This information is believed to be correct as offered by the author, however, it is up to anyone interested in creating a remote control for a generator, to refer to the wiring diagram provided by the manufacturer, and determine for oneself if this information is accurate for this purpose AND if you have the ability to take on a project like this.
Yes, I realize the following information is wordy, and perhaps could be better organized, but I am “ripping” this information out during my spare time based on two separate requests, so hopefully, it will be appreciated in format provided.
(Disconnect the battery prior to doing any wiring until the project is completed)
For START and STOP control, you will be patching into the wires which go into the key starter switch from the backside (inside the generator). To access this area, you have to remove the end cover and disassemble the panel which will require mechanical ability, common sense, a long Philips screwdriver to remove the screw that holds the fuel shutoff valve, and you will have to disconnect the cable which goes to the choke. (Pay attention on how the choke cable end connects to the carburetor. You may make the mistake upon reassembly as it goes together differently than you would expect.)
To patch into STARTER: Splice into wires going into/out of key started switch. White wire is load, Black w/White tracer is to the Starter.
To patch in to OFF/KILL: Splice into Black and Green Wires
ECO THROTTLE: Splice into the Black w/Red tracer and Green w/White tracer wires which reside on each terminal on the back side of the ECO switch.
By closing the circuit of the above spliced wire pairs, you now control the function the wires belong to.
HARDWIRE MOMENTARY SWITCHES . . . you can run a length of appropriate gauge wire to a momentary switch to engage each function. This is what I originally did, placing momentary switches throughout the RV, with the ability of each switch destination to close the circuit. For the 24 foot run maximum, I used 16 gauge wire with no issues.
WIRELESS REMOTE CONTROL . . . I later upgraded (added to the existing hardwire momentary switches) a 4 channel wireless remote which is really all you would need (save yourself the hassle of running wires). With basic electrical knowledge, you can use a 4 channel wireless remote control http://www.amazon.com/Thunbird-Channel-Wireless-Receiver-Momentary/dp/B00BQ842DG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463522751&sr=8-1&keywords=4+channel+wireless+remote to close the circuits of the desired functions. The remote is shipped in the momentary switch state, which is how you would use it. The remote control board can be velcro’ed on the face of the generator, similar to how Pinellas Power Equipment does theirs. Check out his videos on line and it walks you through disassembly and installation of his remote control which he gets good money for. $6.50 and some wire is the way I would go . . . if you have the skills. Do your research on the remotes by visiting customer reviews. I.E. you will want to replace the provided battery with a quality one right from the beginning as the cheap one provided will die soon. Also, I was able to source additional remote fobs on the internet for less than $3 each, so I have 8 positioned around so I always have one within reach.
Using the remote method of starting the generator, you leave the key in the “run” position. Don’t worry, no power is being consumed in this position. The start and stop functions are controlled by closing circuits. In the run position. No circuits are closed. Also, I always left my gas valve opened and never had an issue. The ECO switch should be left in the ON position at the generator (ON is when the generator idles down, not rev’ed).
What is left is the choke. In the beginning, my generator would start without using the choke. As it aged, the choke was necessary. I fabricated an automatic choke using automobile door lock mechanisms and some linkage which I leave to anyone to use their imagination to create and wire. I don’t have the time to outline what I did, especially in words. I will see if I can post a picture of what I did.
Good Luck with your remote project if you decide to take it on.
UPDATE 2015 - So now it has been 11 years, and I have run this generator more than I ever anticipated. IT STILL PERFORMS PERFECTLY. I love this generator and I am more satisfied than ever. When it dies (or, should I say if it ever dies), it will be replaced with like kind. No regrets!
I purchased a Honda EU 3000 inverter spring of 2004. Since this time, it has provided my electrical power needs over the spring/summer (4 to 5 months) per year as I camped as a host in a primative campground. I have run the generator (inverter) on an average of 3 hours per day for recharging my batteries, running my air conditioning, microwave (not at the same time) and entertainment center. I ran flawlessly until last summer when it first started running rough, and then running very rich. After some trouble-shooting including replacing the carborator ($60.00 parts) I discovered the issue was a clogged spark arrestor which resides inside the muffler below the tailpipe. Point is, this is a regular maintenance item which I failed to clean, but once it was cleaned, it ran as good as new.
I do my own maintenance, and recently purchased the shop manual. I also patched into the wiring harness to establish remote locations in my RV to start, stop, as well as control the econo-throttle. I have also always run synthetic motor oil in the unit (Amsoil).
While expensive, this generator outperforms anything I am aware of in its class. Reliabiliy, quiet (yes, you will not find anything quieter), and inexpensive to run. If I wear mine out, I will be replacing it with the same. Make the investment . . . .
Most recent customer reviews
We'd run them 15 hours a day, and they almost never failed.Read more