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JFJ Easy Pro Video Game, CD, DVD, Blu-Ray Repair Machine 110V
- 30-day unconditional money back guarantee. 1-year warranty on parts and labor.
- Use a one step machine for skipping, finger print or light scratches or multi stage for deep gauges
- Light weight, silent motor, safe compounds make the CD or DVD look brand new every time
- No water, you do not have to deal with filter, water pump, water hose or dirty water
- Includes JFJ Pro Disc Repair Machine, Anti Static Spray Cleaner, JFJ Pro Solutions 1 & 2, Sanding Pads, Buffing Pads
- Easy pro maintenance is between 15 to 20 cents per repair
|Special Shipping Information: This product may not be available for 1 or 2 day shipping due to federal regulations that require it to ship via ground ship methods only. This product can only be shipped within the 48 contiguous states.
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From the Manufacturer
JFJ Easy Pro Video Game, CD, DVD, Blu-Ray Repair Machine
More than 100,000 units sold over the past 10-years to businesses and individuals. The sanding feature enables the Easy Pro to remove deep scratches, gouges, and even the ring of death from Xbox 360 discs. Use as a one-step machine for skipping, fingerprints or light scratches, or as a multi-step machine for deep scratches and gouges.
Repairable Disc Formats
The JFJ Easy Pro machine will clean and resurface anything from a fingerprint to a deep gouge on the following type of discs: Music CDs, CD-ROMs, Sony PlayStation, PSone, PS2, PS3, and PS4 game discs, Microsoft Xbox, xbox360, and xbox one game discs, Nintendo Wii/Wii U, Nintendo GameCube (supplies sold separately), DVD Movies, double-sided DVD, VCD, CDR, DVDR, XBX360, HD DVD, Blu-ray (repairs limited on blu-ray formats) and future Compact Disc based products.
When it comes to repair, it does not matter how deep, or bad the scratches are, JFJ is able to repair it, or your money back! 30-Day 100 percent money back guarantee!
- A simple machine with industrial results. #1 preferred choice, for your home & small business.
- Low cost disc cleaning and repair
- JFJ Easy Pro is a worldwide product
- Blu-ray compatible (repairs limited)
- 1-year manufacturer’s warranty covers all parts, labor, and even normal wear and tear. Additional 1 and 5-year extended warranty options available.
The JFJ Easy Pro machine will clean and resurface anything from a fingerprint to a deep gouge on the following type of discs: Music CDs, CD-ROMs, Sony PlayStation, PSone and PlayStation 2 game discs, Microsoft X-box game discs, Nintendo Wii, Nintendo GameCube, DVD Movies, double-sided DVD, VCD, CDR, DVDR, XBX360, HD DVD PSX3 and future Compact Disc based products. This machine comes with a 30-day money back guarantee and 1-year warranty. For technical support please contact us at (800) 245-3675 or firstname.lastname@example.org. This is a 110 volt machine and will not work in countries requiring 220 voltage. Please contact the manufacturer (JFJ Disc Repair) for 220 volt units.
Top Customer Reviews
I should also mention that I have at this time successfully repaired several hundred discs. I have not used ANY of the sandpaper pads, the #1 Blue polishing solution, or anything else supplied with this machine other than the #2 White solution and the foam buffing pads. That's because this combo will repair 99% of discs that are worth repairing. I frequent garage sales, thrift stores, and flea markets, looking primarily for music CDs to expand my collection. I dont't usually waste my time or money on discs that are so bad they would need to be sanded, though I can imagine if you were in IT for example and had a really destroyed data disc you needed to recover, it might warrant use of some other repair strategy, for me the White Solution + foam pads are all I ever need.
Choosing discs to repair: The data layer on an optical disc is near the "top" of the disc - that is, the label side, just beneath the label. That's how this machine works - there's a thick layer of polycarb on the non-label side which can be polished to remove scratches on it's surface without affecting the data on the disc. So most discs which don't have damage to the data layer can be fixed. Simply hold the disc up to a strong light. If you can see daylight through any of the shiny areas of the disc then the data is damaged and you will not be able to fix the disc 100% no matter how much polishing or sanding you do. As an aside, optical discs are read from the hub first and out towards the edge, so the first track on your CD, for example, will be located nearest to the center of the disc and so forth. This gives you some idea where to look for that scratch which is causing your disc to skip or your DVD to lock up.
This machine is simple to operate. There's no real need to "practice" as some reviewers maintain - unless you plan to use the more radical sanding options. Here's tip #1 from my record store friends: Get a spritzer bottle of water and moisten the foam pad before each use. Don't soak it, just get it damp and then apply the white solution. I apply the solution to the pad in a ring and then spread it out to the edges with my fingers. There is a 1-1/4" patch in center of the pad which doesn't need solution on it - this corresponds to the hub of the disc which doesn't get polished.
Next, attach your disc to the spindle on the lid. The clear, non-label side will face down when the lid is closed. Here is another very important piece of information that my friends warned me about. BE VERY CAREFUL SCREWING DOWN THE DISC! Make sure that the plastic screw, which is threaded somewhat imprecisely, doesn't get cross-threaded, so that the disc can wobble ever so slightly when it is being polished. This is the source of the cracked disc hubs that other reviewers have mentioned. So use both hands to press the disc down absolutely flat against the top surface, make sure it hasn't gotten hooked on the screw threads, and then carefully and gently screw on the nut that holds the disc in place. If it doesn't go on easily, back off and try again until it does. Once you've got it on right, tighten it down good and finger tight.
Now you're ready to polish the disc. Watch a movie or something. Put on some headphones because this machine is pretty noisy. Keep a rag handy to wipe the compound off of your fingers if you're going to be doing a number of discs. Remove all the discs from their cases at the beginning, so you don't have to handle the cases with polish-covered fingers. Now, using the #2 polish and a foam pad as I do, there's no risk of over-polishing a disc. If you just want to remove finger-prints etc, a single two-minute run will be enough. Otherwise, I have found that giving all my scratched discs three two-minute runs for a total of six minutes of polishing works best. I don't add more compound between runs. Most discs that are not repaired after this time are not salvageable, but if your really really want that disc, you can try another six minute set on it. Note that this machine will get hot, especially if you are doing six minutes for each disc, so keep an eye on it and give it time to cool off every now and then. If the nut has gotten too hot and you can't loosen it to remove the CD, I have found that a spritz of cool water will usually loosen it.
After polishing, it is safe to stack the repaired CDs on top of one another, and even to put them aside for later washing. The compound will not "harden" on the discs. To remove the compound, I take a batch at a time into the bathroom spread them out on the counter label side down, then I put a drop of dishwashing liquid (non greasy, like Dawn) on each disc. I run some very warm water and using my fingers I wash and rinse the discs and then stick them inside the folds of a cotton bath towel to dry. Here's another tip from me: Make sure you get all the compound off the disc, especially in the central hub are, which often has a groove around it in which the compound can remain. If you don't get all the compound off, it will smear around your disc when you give it the final touch up. For me, the touch up is nothing fancy. Like I said, I don't use any of the other equipment or sprays you are provided with this kit. I just dry the discs off and look for scratches. There are some advanced scratch removal techniques you can employ at this time which involve spit, your fingertips, and a white cotton T-shirt, but these are not part of my official recommendations. :)
Here are a couple more non-official non-recommendations which are sure to void your warranty, so try at your own risk:
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (Car polish) is almost, but not quite as good a JFJ Compound #2, and quite a bit cheaper. It works!
After you've polished a number of discs, you will see a lot of gunk inside the machine which is made up of used compound, tiny worn fragments of foam pad, and presumably, tiny bits of poly carbon. This can be scooped off and re-used as buffing compound as long as you're using a spritzer bottle to keep everything moist. Just smear it all back on the pad. (Update: I wouldn't do this if you have used the sandpaper on any discs!)
BTW I have repaired several hundred discs at least, and have only used the original two foam pads that came with the system. Neither of them has completely worn out, so I think you can expect to get a couple hundred uses at least (remember I do SIX MINUTES! per disk) out of these pads - IF YOU KEEP THEM MOIST.
In summation, this is a great product, works exactly as described, and has been a boon to my CD collection, enabling me to scoop up and refurbish many rare used discs that others simply pass by. Like many such tools (like ink-jet printers for example) they really nail you on the supplies, however. I hope my tips will prove useful and help others to mitigate this at least a little.
So, you can't just put a disc in and hit 2 minutes, or even one minute, except for perhaps the blue polish stage. Any disc you try to repair, you take a chance of ruining the disc. In summary, if your disc plays fine, either leave it alone or try just the polish stage. If your disc didn't work in the first place, this might fix it, but you really need to do each step in 10 or 20 second increments. Definately start with some cheap old discs to get used to how finicky the machine can be.
I’ve now resurfaced about 50 discs (CD, DVD, Blu-ray) and after some time with it I can now resurface a disc to a mirror-like condition without swirl marks. XBOX 360, no problem. Note: you can only polish, not sand a Blu-ray disc.
Here is a huge tip; get a small spray bottle and fill it with water. Hit the white and blue pads with a few sprays before adding the creams. This will cut down on the amount of white and blue cream you use and keeping those pads moist is the key to a mirror like finish.
Don't fear the sanding discs, they are the only way to remove deep to medium scratches
Easily go from a trash disc to NM (near mint)
When I first bought the product and was waiting impatiently for its arrival, I read some more reviews on the JFJ machine. Apparently, there are two versions of the machine: one with a glass-like plastic top, and one with a lighter plastic. I called the company and asked them several questions:
1.) If I get the product with the top made of "lighter" plastic, can I get the new lid?
-- yes, but you have to send it off and spend about 50 dollars for the piece and labor.
2.) I have heard that, after thousands of repairs, the plastic cap that holds the disc while it spins will eventually strip on the metal screw...
-- no problem. The company will usually just send you one free of charge if that's all you need
Basically, whatever future parts you need, you can get a repair kit inexpensively...even after the warranty ends. That's something very important to me.
When you get it out of the box (mine was the new model with the better lid. I bought before Xmas 2008), you can tell it's a well-made product. This thing is built like a bomb shelter, no joke. And, unlike a previous poster suggested, there is no learning curve. The idea is to choose the least-drastic method for the disc at hand. For example, if it's a minor scratch, don't use the sand paper.
If you do use the coarse sand paper, you follow it with the fine, then the white and blue solutions in that order. You simply work your way down the grit level. It also includes a glossy instruction booklet. Better yet, there are vids on youtube (I'll also be posting). If you can work a microwave, you can work this machine. If you can screw this up, you shouldn't be allowed to leave your house without your helmet. That's really all I can say.
The only con is that it won't make hot cocoa for me when I come home from class, I guess. This really was a solid investment, and I hope you find my review useful.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
After using the jfj easy pro, they looked great. Took the scratches out within minutes. Nice and clean.Read more