Ka-Bar Full Size US Marine Corps Fighting Knife, Straight
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- 100% Leather Sheath
- 1095 Cro-van steel. Edge Angles - 20 Degrees
- 7" Straight Edge Blade
- The most famous fixed blade knife design in the world
- Overall length 11.875 inches
- The most famous fixed blade knife design in the world
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From the manufacturer
Presentation Grade USMC KA-BAR Knife
Perfect for gift giving, celebrating a military anniversary or retirement or just to showcase your pride in serving the USA. The KA-BAR Knife features a gold-plated brass guard and pommel. Made with tough 1095 Cro-van steel, the blade of this knife is durable and sharp.
Protective Leather Sheath
Durable, rugged, and strong. This leather sheath won't break like its plastic counterparts. Not only does it feel and look good, this sheath will keep the blade of your KA-BAR knife protected and sharp.
Our Most Famous Knife
The the legendary USMC KA-BAR is an icon in the world of knives. During the second World War, it was one of the general issue knives to the United States Marine Corps, and quickly gained popularity around the world. Today, this knife remains the first choice for many men and women of service who carry it as their personal knife.
We've been making knives since 1898, and each knife undergoes our unique manufacturing processes and testing to ensure corrosion resistance, strength, edge holding ability and an out-of-the-box razor sharp cutting edge.
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The Ka Bar' was designed to serve our troops during WW II and is still doing its job, with honors, more than 70 Years later.
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Top customer reviews
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My first KaBar got lost when I was wounded in Viet Nam so I purchased a model 1209 at a USMC PX in 1970 to replace it. Still have it and have used it for 47 years, but wanted something to leave in the camper so it will always be there. Lots of other brands, but KaBar has my vote.
The new full size model with a 7" blade is larger than the 1209 and has the classic stacked leather handle and pinned butt cap. Edge angle is a flat 20 degrees for a good utility knife. Treated the sheath with Neatsfoot oil and it got darker and more pliant, but still very sturdy with stitching and rivets. Both knifes will probably last longer than I will.
First...My knife didn't come with a razor sharp edge either, which I'm glad for. This way I could put my own angles on the cutting edge without having to fight the factory edge. Anyone who knows anything about knives should be able to sharpen their own knives like they want, not complain about having to take it to a specialist. What 'chu gonna do when it's dull and there is no specialist?
Next...The steel is 1095 CroVan, which is awesome. Stainless is very hard to achieve a good edge on without the proper honing instruments, such as ceramic. If your out in the middle of nowhere without a sharpening stone or any other store bought tool, you can sharpen this steel on virtually any rock you find with decent results. Not so with stainless. Sure it can rust, which brings me to my next piece of input.
The sheath...Leather is one of the toughest things out there. Sure it's made in Mexico, but, do you really know anything about Mexican leathercraft? It is some of the best there is. I live in New Mexico and have plenty of expierience in the matter. When you get your sheath, soak it really good with neatsfoot oil or olive oil really well. I mean REALLY well. The oils in the leather will make it waterproof and keep most moisture out, plus, everytime you sheath it, you will put a fine coat of oil on the blade. Rust problem solved. Plus, you can ALWAYS repair leather with needle and thread, not so with the synthetic sheaths.
Anyway, there's my two cents on the matter.
For anyone worried about Chinese knockoffs, I suggest clicking on the one-star reviews to read those and look at the pictures others have posted. My knife, received at the end of 2017 and purchased from this product page, was not one of those. I got the real deal, with the proper cross guard, "Orlean, New York" Ka-Bar stamp on the blade and a "Made in Mexico" (They do good leatherwork in Mexico.) sticker on the sheath.
I'm no expert, but for those wondering about maintenance, here's what I did:
For the leather grip and sheath, I used Sno-Seal (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQJDQ90/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Follow the directions and heat up the leather with a hair dryer, rub in this beeswax product with a cloth until excess builds up on the surface and wipe away the excess. The wax will slightly darken the leather, but I like that look. You can use lots of different stuff to treat the leather, but it's my understanding beeswax is best for a knife grip like this one, because oils will make the leather softer, which you don't want on the grip of your knife. The leather grip on this knife is, and should be, hard. Beeswax protects without softening. Doing this once per year ought to do.
For oiling the blade, you can use all sorts of stuff, from gun oil to olive oil. Olive oil, however, can go rancid in hot temperatures, and mechanical oils aren't good for dressing game and have an odor. Now, I'm not likely to kill a wild boar for dinner with this knife, but I still decided to get this knife oil (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEOCK8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which is odorless and food safe. It's a big bottle and will last years.
I mentioned I'm no expert, so I prefer an easy solution for sharpening my knives. I have a couple pocket sharpeners, but I like this one the best (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085PPSIQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I don't recommend the coarse carbide option, as I have knicked a blade with those before. I prefer using the fine ceramic for sharpening.