LGDehome IIC/I2C/TWI LCD 1602 16x2 Serial Interface Adapter Module Blue Backlight for Arduino UNO R3 MEGA2560(Pack of 2)
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- Components: Blue 16x2 1602 lcd display with i2c serial interface backpack ;1602 lcd screen can perfectly display 2-lines x 16-characters.The i2c lcd adapter built-in industry standard HD44780 equivalent LCD controller
- Default Address: 0x27 for PCF8574T chip;0x3F for PCF8574AT chip; Please kindlly check the chip of the i2c interface. ( Remember to download the LiquidCrystal_I2C library on GitHub before uploading the code to the control board)
- How to wire: GND—GND; VCC—VCC; SDA—A4; SCL—A5
- Compatibility: Fit for Arduino and Raspberry pi.Working Voltage: 5V ;Come with a potentiometer used to adjust backlight and contrast
- Application:Used to display Characters, letters and Numbers ,real time clock, temperature, humidity,etc... ;
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Display: 2-lines x 16-characters
Backlight: Blue with white character color
Four Pin Definition:GND,VCC,SDA ,SCL
Default I2C bus address:0x3F for PCF8574AT chip,0x27 for PCF8574T chip;
LCD controller: HD44780
2 pack blue 16x2 1602 lcd display + 2C serial interface
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NO Instruction were included
NO software or demo scripts or links were included in the box
Does not work as expected when powered by 3.3V to the LCD (5V is really needed for power)
To get it working without instructions required more than an hour of frustration. The default address of this LCD was found to be 0x3F. I was able to find the address by running an I2C scanner script. Once you know the I2C address of the LCD display, you will need a script that is compatible with the chip on this LCD display and then you must enter the I2C address. The only script I could find that worked with this LCD was the LiquidCrystal_I2C library on GitHub and I installed it into my Arduino library. To set the LCD address properly in the Arduino script software, I changed a line of the script to read
The 0x3F is the address, 16 are the characters, and 2 are the number of rows of this LCD display.
The second issue was that the LCD the characters do not work properly when run from a 3.3V source. When connected to a 3.3V source, the characters were dark on a dark blue background and not visible except at an extreme angle and with the pot on the back pushed past it's normal range. The work around was to power the LCD Vcc by the USB 5V power and thankfully the I2C pins on my 3.3V Arduino board are 5V tolerant, so the Arduino chip did not burn up. I also had to adjust the potentiometer on the back of the LCD display, to get the contrast right after applying 5V.
I photo is attached and it looks good now that it is working and I hope you have a faster success than myself.
PCF8574T CHIP: default slave address of 0x27
PCF8574AT CHIP: default slave address of 0x3F
Also using the SCL and SDA pins in the Arduino instead of A4 and A5.
LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27,16,2); // set the LCD address to 0x27 for a 16 chars and 2 line display
lcd.init(); // initialize the lcd
// Print a message to the LCD.
To get the displays to work, I ended up using a library from an instructables article called "Arduino I2C LCD Driver Library and PackMan"
If you download the library, you should make the following changes in the examples:
1: In all library examples, change LiquidCrystal_I2C_PCF8574 lcd(0x27,20,4); to LiquidCrystal_I2C_PCF8574 lcd(0x27,16,2);
2: In the LCD_I2C_HelloWorld example, change lcd.print("Hello, world!"); to lcd.writeStr("Hello, world!");
3: LCD_I2C_PCF8574_SingleDisplayFunctionality is a great way to learn how to use the displays but there are multiple locations in this example where they hard code 20 characters and 4 rows of text so some of the functions may not show up on the display unless you find and fix these.
Once you get the text brightness/contrast turned up so that you can actually see the text, these boards work well, and the White-on-Blue color pallet looks good in my opinion.
Or in this case, you get a bulk part in sealed in an electrostatic bag. These were 2 for $9 bucks - I've seen them as high as $20 for one without the backpack.
These arrived filthy and look like they cut the PCB boards with a very dull blade - edges are jagged and rough enough to give me fiberglass splinters. Soldering of the components seems cleanish.
If you are a beginner, READ THE COMMENTS others have left. There's critical info on how to get the display working properly. The part doesn't come with any documentation, so a big thanks to those who offered up solutions.