![D-Planet [2-Pack] LM2596s Buck Converter DC to DC Step-Down Voltage Regulator Power Module 36V 24V 12V to 5V 2A Voltage Stabilizer with LED Display](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51-QknzVW+S._SX342_SY445_.jpg)
I purchased these for my Ender 5 to attach 3 12v LEDs to my hotend. My machine only has outputs for 24v so I used these to step the voltage down to the appropriate 12v required.
My main attraction to these was the screw terminals rather than the others that are necessary to solder. I dont mind soldering all that much, but I wanted the ability to easily remove the LEDS from my setup if I wanted and these work perfectly for that.
Setup was easy enough and I was even able to find a model on thingiverse that was specifically made for this converter which allowed for simple mounting to the side of my machine.
All in all I'm happy with my money spent and I would purchase these again.
Thank you!
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![D-Planet [2-Pack] LM2596s Buck Converter DC to DC Step-Down Voltage Regulator Power Module 36V 24V 12V to 5V 2A Voltage Stabi](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71X03q8LXKS._AC_UL116_SR116,116_.jpg)
$9.99
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Reviews with images
No/Failed Solder On One
On the first module, I inspected the solder points before trying it. Immediately, I noticed that the voltage input commection swas completely missing solder one one pin (IN+ pin, the top left pin in the picture) and other pin had a *very" weak solder connection (IN-). I shouldn't need to explain why that's not great. Out of the two pack I purchased, the second module seems okay physically. Luckily I only needed one, and I am capable of fixing the solder points, but I shouldn't have to.Second point of concern, those connections that weren't soldered properly? Absolute garbage. The design relies entirely on having a thick cable and squeezing the cable against the "floor" if the connector. Well, when working with small fans (in this case, reducing 24v from a 3d printer to 12v for use with a fan), the wires aren't thick enough to actually form any kind of connection at all. The poorly soldered connection was actually to my advantage, as I had to desolder them anyway and solder wires directly to the board.As far as actually reducing voltage, it does in fact do it's job and is easy enough to set. I specifically went with these modules for the on-board LCD, so that I didn't need to adjust with the help of a multimeter. The LCD is a *little* slow to update, but as long as you don't crank the potentiometer screw as quick as you physically can it's fine.If the LCD is a selling point and you are willing to do a bit of soldering to make these work, this is fine. I'd look elsewhere if you want a hassle free solution.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2020
Reviewed in the United States on September 24, 2019
Reviewed in the United States on April 17, 2022
Reviewed in the United States on September 16, 2021
On the first module, I inspected the solder points before trying it. Immediately, I noticed that the voltage input commection swas completely missing solder one one pin (IN+ pin, the top left pin in the picture) and other pin had a *very" weak solder connection (IN-). I shouldn't need to explain why that's not great. Out of the two pack I purchased, the second module seems okay physically. Luckily I only needed one, and I am capable of fixing the solder points, but I shouldn't have to.
Second point of concern, those connections that weren't soldered properly? Absolute garbage. The design relies entirely on having a thick cable and squeezing the cable against the "floor" if the connector. Well, when working with small fans (in this case, reducing 24v from a 3d printer to 12v for use with a fan), the wires aren't thick enough to actually form any kind of connection at all. The poorly soldered connection was actually to my advantage, as I had to desolder them anyway and solder wires directly to the board.
As far as actually reducing voltage, it does in fact do it's job and is easy enough to set. I specifically went with these modules for the on-board LCD, so that I didn't need to adjust with the help of a multimeter. The LCD is a *little* slow to update, but as long as you don't crank the potentiometer screw as quick as you physically can it's fine.
If the LCD is a selling point and you are willing to do a bit of soldering to make these work, this is fine. I'd look elsewhere if you want a hassle free solution.
Second point of concern, those connections that weren't soldered properly? Absolute garbage. The design relies entirely on having a thick cable and squeezing the cable against the "floor" if the connector. Well, when working with small fans (in this case, reducing 24v from a 3d printer to 12v for use with a fan), the wires aren't thick enough to actually form any kind of connection at all. The poorly soldered connection was actually to my advantage, as I had to desolder them anyway and solder wires directly to the board.
As far as actually reducing voltage, it does in fact do it's job and is easy enough to set. I specifically went with these modules for the on-board LCD, so that I didn't need to adjust with the help of a multimeter. The LCD is a *little* slow to update, but as long as you don't crank the potentiometer screw as quick as you physically can it's fine.
If the LCD is a selling point and you are willing to do a bit of soldering to make these work, this is fine. I'd look elsewhere if you want a hassle free solution.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States on January 16, 2022
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Funciona tal como lo dice, 100% recomendado !
Reviewed in Mexico on January 14, 2021