|Item Weight||5.06 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||12.99 x 8.81 x 2.24 inches|
|Item model number||HTG157|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Warranty||One year limited|
Other Sellers on Amazon
Lanzar Amplifier Car Audio, Amplifier Monoblock, 1 Channel, 3,000 Watt, 2 Ohm, MOSFET, RCA Input, Bass Boost, Mobile Audio, Amplifier for Car Speakers, Car Electronics, Crossover Network (HTG157), BLACK
|Item Weight||2.3 Kilograms|
About this item
- AUDIO EVOLUTION: This amplifier car audio features excellent frequency response rates and crossover network that place these amps in a class of their own
- SOUND SPECIALIZATION: This high-powered Power Amplifier is cutting edge technology at its finest Nickel-plated RCA connectors and speaker screw-down terminals ensure a secure connection between amplifier and speakers that allow distortion-free sound
- INTELLIGENT DESIGN: The amplifier monoblock features include power and protection LED indicators; soft turn-on/off; and 1 channel amp design
- RCA JACKS: The Line-Out jacks allow you to build multiple amplifier systems without having to use splitter cords to distribute the signal This makes it easier to bring one set into the first amp, then use the line out jack as the feed to the next amp
- GREAT DEAL: Often a monoblock amp comes with a high price tag Yet the Lanzar mono amplifier is budget friendly with all the features, reducing crosstalk between channels
Frequently bought together
More items to explore
Customers who viewed this item also viewed
Have a question?
Find answers in product info, Q&As, reviews
Your question may be answered by sellers, manufacturers, or customers who purchased this item, who are all part of the Amazon community.
Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question.
Please enter a question.
From the manufacturer
Lanzar Amplifier Car Audio, Amplifier Monoblock, 1 Channel, 3,000 Watt, 2 Ohm, MOSFET, RCA Input, Bass Boost, Mobile Audio
- 1 x 650W RMS @ 4 OHMS
- 1 x 1250W Peak @ 4OHMS
- 1 x 1500W RMS @ 2 OHMS
- 1 x 3000W Max @ 2 OHMS
- Electronic Crossover Network
- Bass Boost Circuit
- 2 Ohm Stable
- Nickel RCA Inputs
- Line Outs for Left and Right Channel
- Low Pass Filter Controls
- Power and Protection LED Indicators
- Soft Turn-on/Turn-off
- THD: <0.01%.
- S/N Ratio: >90dB
- Freq. Response:10Hz~45KHz
- LPF Freq. Response: 50Hz-250Hz
- HPF Freq Response:80HZ
- Fuse: 40A x1
Compare with similar items
Lanzar Model : HTG157
3000 Watt 2 Ohm Stable Mono Block Mosfet Amplifier
This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Top reviews from the United States
There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later.
My subs are set up as 4 ohms total so I am not doing 3000 watts peak.
It's more like 650 RMS and 1250 peak.
Great sound out of the 2 Lanzar 12" subs I bought with it.
I would buy this again.
UPDATE: This amp crapped out on my less than 3 years into ownership. I'll have to subtract some stars for that.
I changed my attitude about this product . . . I would NOT buy this again. Goin for something a little more reliable.
Not bad for the price.
Top reviews from other countries
For any potential buyers out there please understand that this is Mos-Fet technology (metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistor), which is older but tried and tested, Mos-Fet was used in all but a few valve power amp up until recently, they are designed to cope with a fair amount of operating heat and have great advantage in delivering REAL TRUE power, it is very difficult for a big company to make a 'bad Amp' using this technology. The unit is operating fine straight out of the box!
Many people ignore the operating parameters given by the corporation and then complain when something goes wrong.
I began as a Sound Engineer some long time ago, and am still a working DJ, I am going to tell all that is to be known about this Amp, the real deal! Before buying things on Amazon, I rely on the reviews both the good and the bad ones, and I believe in accuracy and clarity and truth. (however I've learned to weed out whining wimps, some people should not be allowed anywhere near good equipment, I've learnt this over the years through lending out disco equipment, usually comes back badly damaged with a bizarre & ridiculous story), the moaners are really saying the equipment was NOT 'idiot proof' enough. (And will never be!)
I am playing various music as heavy as possible, as hard as I can, and will update shortly. (Hope it helps someone)......
First Update.....After one week, I'm using two 4 Ohm subs, both with peak handling capabilities of around a 1000 watts, together that's 2000 watts peak.
That means that the nominal or RMS power between them is around 500 watts (always roughly one quarter of the peak amount)
I've wired them in series for a total of 8 Ohms Load to the amp, the amp has a peak of 3000 watts into a 2 Ohms load, so why don't I go for the peak power set-up? Because it would be a waste of time! In the 8 Ohms configuration the unit will deliver a comfortable 600-750 watts rms far more than my two speakers can ever handle, but more importantly it has plenty of head room in reserve (NO DISTORTION)! Why does that matter?
The amp is rated to be 2 Ohms stable, and when the bass drops, (when the speakers are driven hard) the impedance rises and falls to much more than half of its rated value, and when impedance falls to zero it creates an open channel to the power source, in this case the battery, (that means a direct current from the battery through the amp (smoke and tears) which can in some cases, end up frying the speakers also), some power Amps are rated down to half an Ohm (.5) stable, that is a different matter! Those Amps can handle a 2 Ohm load and be driven hard all day. (In other words there is NO point starting with the speaker impedance matching the STABLE rating of the Amp, because any BASS will always cause the impedance to fall below that point, causing heat and damage, wasting money!!) If one takes a 10,000 watts Amp + 16 midrange 10 watts speakers rated 4 Ohms, wire them in parallel, the Amp will blow after a few seconds, its not the speakers, its not the Amp, its the incorrect wiring!
The present set-up means that I can drive the two subs to the extreme limit, because the bass will cause the impedance to fall to 4 or 3 Ohms no lower, (that will correspond nicely to the peak 2000 watts ability of my two subs, because as the impedance is force to fall, the power from the Amp rises, all be it for fractions of a second) end result is a rich deep bass, which is brutal and hits like a sledgehammer, and I am playing heavy weight reggae, drum n' bass, and garage etc, I have run the amp all day long and it has not even warmed up, (I will give a demo to anyone who wants to get in touch, using your choice of music, and dare you to turn the bass more that half way! You will have a kidney massage, as this thing kicks like a mule). As a result it is better to get 100% out of 500 watts 2000 peak, than 20-30% from a higher setting with distortion and thermal runaway.
I've temporally added two fans (Pictured) with a remote control switch under the drivers seat, in the event the amp 'was' to heat up, but so far it has been running very cold, next I will change the set-up, by adding another sub and wiring all into a 4 Ohm load, but this will also need a power cap which I am not using at present, (because I have a super heave duty deep cycle truck battery, which does the job nicely).
The 4 Ohm set-up will double the power drawn from the Amp, and an extra sub will also double the sound pressure level, which in turn means I will be able to play higher level at a lower crossover point. (Will feel the bass more than hear the bass!)
Will update at that point, but for now I contend that this a very, very good quality piece of kit.
Final update, the Amp is still working fine, and delivering real and seriously heavy bass, clean and rich, I do use a (Subwoofer Bass Controller - Level and Frequency) with it, which I recommend, I have found that the fans are not necessary or needed, so all is still well after several months of audio fun!
Last tip, This amp draws a huge amount of power, so use the heaviest power cable you can get hold of, I recommend getting a 800 to '1200 amp pro jump cable' and cut them for this job this saves money and is overkill, also make sure the alternator is up to the Job, have fun!
Amp is Probably worth $50AUD at most.
Lesson learnt, it looks too good to be true because it isn't.