- Self-leveling, self-cleaning, tetherless printing, and an integrated power supply make powerful 3D printing easy
- A large build volume of 280 mm x 280 mm x 250 mm (11.02 in x 11.02 in x 9.8 in) enables large prints, or many small prints at once
- Maximum temperatures of 300°C (572°F) for the hot end and 120°C (248°F) open a world of material possibilities
- Modular tool head carriage design allows plug-and-play with different print heads for growing selection of 3D printing filament materials
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LulzBot TAZ 6 3D Printer
|Price:||$2,500.00 & FREE Shipping. Details|
Specifications for this item
|Number of Items||1|
|Color||TAZ 6 Printer|
|Style||TAZ 6 Printer|
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From the manufacturer
The LulzBot TAZ 6 is the most reliable, easiest-to-use desktop 3D printer ever
The LulzBot TAZ 6 3D printer features proven self-cleaning, self-leveling technology. Get a clean start to each new print job and never worry about leveling your print bed again.
Big Printer, Huge Possibilities
The LulzBot TAZ 6 has one of the largest build volumes of any desktop 3D printer. So whether you need one big part, or lots of small ones, the LulzBot TAZ 6 has capacity to spare.
At the LulzBot factory in Loveland, Colorado, USA more than 140 LulzBot 3D printers run 24-hours-a-day producing components used to build more 3D printers. Reliability is a critical feature.
Anatomy of a Workhorse
Advanced Tool Head
Features a proven extruder, hot end capable of reaching 300-degrees Celsius, and dual part cooling fans. Modular design allows easy upgrades to flexible or dual material printing.
Heated Print Bed
The heated PEI print surface ensures your parts stay in place while printing and are easily removed when cool.
Quality Built In
Every component of the LulzBot TAZ 6 was selected for a long life of trouble free operation. From the aluminum frame to the power supply, the TAZ 6 is built to last.
More than 30 supported filament materials:
- Nylon Copolymers
- Copolyesters (nGen, INOVA-1800, n-vent)
- Wood, Metal, and Stone PLA composites
- New material profiles added frequently
Free as in Freedom
All LulzBot 3D printers use free software and are open source hardware. This means you have total access to the source code for both the software and the hardware. You can use that information to make modifications to the hardware, improve the software, or just to learn more about how your 3D printer works.
Cura LulzBot Edition Software
Cura LulzBot Edition software makes it easy to load your model files and slice them for printing. Best of all, it's free software, meaning you will never pay for upgrades and the source code is available to all.
- Easy to use with hundreds of Quick Print Profiles built in for LulzBot 3D Printers
- Easy access to advanced options for advanced users
- Free Software with no limit on installations
- Works with GNU/Linux, Windows, and Mac
- Compatible with STL and OBJ model files
The LulzBot TAZ 6 features innovative self-leveling & self-cleaning, and a modular tool head design for flexible and multi-material upgrades. With proven technology & one of the largest print volumes in its class, the LulzBot TAZ 6 is ready to work. The LulzBot TAZ 6 is a Free Software, Libre Innovation, and Open Source Hardware product, respecting your freedom to create
Manufacturer Contact Information
If you encounter any issues with your LulzBot purchase or have any questions, please contact the expert support team at +1-970-377-1111 ex. 2 or email at firstname.lastname@example.org
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Top customer reviews
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I received my Taz6 on August 15, 2016. The printer was unboxed and I ran the test print which came out just fine. I then started printing different items for the next 6 weeks without any issues. Then the other night an awful sound starting coming from the Z-Axis and the printer would not calibrate. I thought it may be a fluke, so tried again and the printer started right up. I went to check on my print after a few minutes and saw the
Z-Axis failed and drove the extruder into the heat bed. This caused a huge bubble right in the center of the heat bed. I contacted Lulzbot customer service via phone and spoke to a very rude gentleman. He informed me that the Z-Axis just need manually adjusted and it would be just fine and hung up. He could have cared less about the issue.
I then sent pics and videos to the Lulzbot tech email and after communicating back and forth they came to the conclusion that the heat sink has failed on the Z-Axis. Here is the exact text from his email stating that the heatsinks are faulty.
Text from service rep
"The reason being is that we've tested the cooling properties of the heatsink and found that it does not provide adequate cooling in the larger control box on the TAZ 6 (it was required in previous models but the TAZ 6 has much better cooling inside the control box) and actually traps heat, and secondly we've had a recent run of heatsinks with faulty adhesive making it a double-edged sword. We actually no longer install them in production of TAZ 6 for these reasons"
Since the heatsink failed this is causing the driver to go bad and let's not forget this printer in only 6 weeks old. Now, I have to ship the printer back. I bought this printer to start a business and things need to be printed for customers this week.
I would have thought Lulzbot would have their act together since this is there 6th rendition of the printer. Plus, at a price tag of $2,500 you would expect a higher standard of quality, not the quality of a cheap cloned knockoff.
Lastly, this is not a one-off incident. Other people have written reviews of the heatsink failing on the Z axis. I know my recommendation probably means nothing to anybody but I would strongly advise not to purchase from Lulzbot.
All I had to do is rotate the right side cylinder by 360 degree counter clockwise. It move the z of that side up by couple mils.
Only other thing I want to touch on is the support - you won't get better support with any other 3D printer company (at least in my experience)!
The green filament that comes with is enough to print the rocktopus as well as some green accent parts for the LCD Knob, Wiper, Filament Holder and more.
The auto leveling saves a lot of time. Combined with Cura, you can essential print right outside the box. I'm currently printing what Cura said to be a 24 hour job. That's not correct. 22:44 minutes at 62.2 % is where I'm at now. That is OK, just don't schedule your life around it.
Looking forward to printing other things once my project completes.
I did take an excellent 3 hour class on 3d printing at a makerspace in Columbus Ohio before my purchase. After that I printed 2 parts on the makerspace's RepRap printer. That was very helpful in getting me started.
I'm very happy with the printer thus far. Mostly I've printed with ABS and that has gone quite well. I've only had 2 or 3 truly failed parts, primarily because of failed bed adhesion. At the fastest speed (which is useful for prototyping) the quality isn't great but I can tweak my design as I go. I'm about ready to print a production part at highest quality.
Setting up the printer was surprisingly easy. I was prepared for it to take a couple of hours to install the bed, attach the cabling, etc. It took me at most an hour. The instructions were clear and well illustrated. However, after setting it up and running initial tests I noticed that during the bed leveling process at the beginning of each run, the print head was striking the side of the right front pad rather than floating over it and then tapping down on it. I deduced that the printer frame was out of square and when I looked closely I could see it was. I found very clear squaring instructions on the web site ( [...] ).
Since squaring the frame requires you to remove the print bed, my recommendation would be to check that the frame is square before you install the print bed right from the start. Checking is easy. You just take a tape measure and (following the instructions on the frame squaring page) measure the two diagnonals of the frame, front and back. They should be pretty much equal. Mine were not, they were more than 5/8" off. It took me an extra 45 minutes of tweaking with a hex wrench (supplied) and the tape measure to bring it within 1/16". Since then I don't have that problem with the print head striking the leveling pad.
I've only had one other problem with the printer so far and it was entirely self-generated. When downloading Cura profiles for your filament, be SURE to download the Taz 6 profiles and not the Taz 5 profiles. Things don't work well with the wrong profiles (DUH). Among other things, the Taz files don't contain code for bed leveling.
One other thing I've noticed... The bed temperature seems to drop off from the center to the edge of the bed. When I've printed an object close to the edge I've had adhesion problems. So now I'm printing centered on the bed each time.
I have also found the OctoPrint software running on a Raspberry pi really helpful. I'm running a job right now in the basement and watching live video of the run as I type this at my desk. I use Cura on the desktop to create a gcode file and then use Octoprint to upload it to the pi from which it runs. I don't need to mess around with a SD card or a dedicated PC.
Finally, my one contribution to the greater world of 3d printing. My wife's cake icing offset spatula turned out to be a fantastic tool for removing items from the bed. She wanted hers back so I bought my own. The Ateco spatula has a great thin blade. ( Ateco 4.25 by 0.75-Inch Small Sized Blade Ultra Spatula )Use another tool to gently loosen a corner and then begin to slide the spatula beneath the print. Works like a charm!