|Item Weight||8 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||4 x 0.5 x 4 inches|
|Item model number||SP-2-TK|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Included Components||(4) MJ SPLITTER SteelPros, (3) Kerf Keepers, (1) Drill Guide, (1) Drill Bit|
|Warranty Description||Extended 3-Year Manufacturer's Warranty from Authorized Dealers Only|
MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- America's most popular aftermarket table saw splitter for preventing kickback (for thin kerf saw blades only)
- Installs directly to wood or plastic Zero Clearance Inserts (Throatplates)
- Mini-featherboard technology keeps the workpiece against the fence and prevents burning
- Automatic Kerf Keeper prevents reactive wood from binding on the saw blade
- Simple instructions and installation drill guide included
- For use with Plastic or Wood-based Throatplates Only
- Made in the USA. A true MICROJIG Innovation.
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From the manufacturer
Finally, a table saw splitter that works!
A table saw splitter is one of the best ways to prevent kickback. But most splitters are bulky, cumbersome, and difficult to align.
With MJ Splitter SteelPro, you have a sleek easy-to-install splitter system that fits most aftermarket Zero Clearance Inserts.
We even provide the drill guide and drill bit to make installation a breeze.
Double the Splitter. Double the Safety.
Use a double MJ Splitter setup while cutting softwoods, plywood, and MDF.
Each MJ Splitter is precision engineered with a slight off-set.
Offset splitters will keep your keeper piece against the fence with the 'mini-featherboard' effect and the off-cut piece slightly away from the blade. This helps you prevent binding, burning, and kickback.
Automatic Kerf Keeper for Reactive Wood
Use your MJ Splitter with a Kerf Keeper while cutting hardwoods.
When binding occurs, the Kerf Keeper will be pulled out retaining the kerf to prevent binding and kickback. This is your signal to stop and rethink your cut.
Automatic protection built in.
Tough To The Core
The MJ Splitter SteelPro has an ABS polymer shell reinforced with a solid stainless steel core. It’s able to take on the stress caused by many solid woods, greatly reduce the chance of kickback on your table saw, and virtually eliminate burning.
Tough To The Core
Single and Double Setup
Keep Your Kerf
What's In The Package?
(4) SteelPro Thin Kerf Splitters.
(4) Kerf Keeper Inserts.
(3) Kerf Keeper Sleeves.
(1) Installation Drill Guide and Mounting Hardware.
(1) Drill Bit.
(1) Installation Manual.
Compare with similar items
The ML SPLITTER SteelPro TK is our toughest table saw splitter yet. Virtually eliminate kickback and prevent wood burning on your table saw. Consider a core made of stainless steel and then coated with smooth high density ABS plastic--that is the SteelPro. MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK is designed for Thin Kerf saw blades range: (0. 090" – 0. 118"). Each package comes with 4 SteelPro Splitters, 4 Kerf Keepers, installation guide, drill guide, and drill bit for easy installation. The Dual Splitter approach will utilize our mini-feather board effect to off-set both sides of the work piece, keeper piece and off-cut piece. Each SteelPro Splitter is fine-tuned to several thousands of an inch to keep pressure off the keeper piece against the fence. Once installed, you'll be able to plug and play with the SteelPro because each Splitter comes with a different offset marked on each with a ""+. "" And each ""+"" represents 0. 003'' up to ""+++"" which is 0. 009''. We have also included our Kerf Keepers which are designed to prevent binding from warping reactive solid wood. Always use the correct MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK in correspondence to your kerf range. Only for 90 degree cuts. Made in the USA. A true MICROJIG Innovation. Watch the Action Video and Add to Your Cart Today! 100% Satisfaction. Work Safer. Work Smarter.
Top reviews from the United States
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Instructions for installation on phenolic ZCIs are not on the manual, but they do mention it on their site. On their site they mention using the guide to make some indents, and then to bring it to a drill press. As I do not have a drill press, I had to make due.
So, in order to tackle this I took my sweet sweet time drilling the holes the second time. I would spend about 3 seconds lightly plunging the bit, then remove to clear out the channels. After that, I would move on to the next hole. Eventually rotating from each hole multiple times in order to let the bit and the material cool down and prevent chipping of the insert and breaking of the bit.
All in all it worked out better the second time. But MicroJig really needs to update the instructions that come with the splitter!
A couple of observations -
I use a Lee Craft zero insert, which a couple of other people here had some difficulty with due to its extreme hardness. Use a high quality sharp bit. I used a brand new brad point bit. And, it still took a lot of force to drill the holes.
If there is not enough space between the rear of the blade and the edge of the insert then lower your blade to 2.5 inches or 2.0 inches high and that may give you the room for two inserts. If not, just use the one - it will still work. I have a DeWalt E748 and was able to keep my Forrest blade stabilizer by setting the blade to the 2.5 inch mark and that left room for two inserts easily. If I need to rip something higher than 2.5 inches I will simply put my DeWalt insert back in. I use the saw for furniture and I have never needed to rip anything higher than probably 2 inches.
I opted for the splitter and the kerf keeper setup as I decided to have the extra measure of safety the kerf keeper allows.
Be sure the wood platform is really clamped down onto the saw when you are ready to drill your holes. Mine platform (setup board) slipped when I started on my second set of holes and I had to realign by inserting a bit into one of the first set of holes and re-clamping. Fortunately, there was no harm done.
And lastly, GO SLOW.
I am looking at these two little things sticking out of my insert and I am thinking, "Wow, I paid forty dollars for those little gizmos?" Well, if I had a kickback and I was in the way it would be worth it. I'm 75 and not nearly as nimble as you youngsters that can hop out the way (maybe).
I have a stock riving knife which came with my table saw, but it was designed for 1/8 full kerf blade. When I put on my newly acquired 0.91 thin kerf rip cut blade, the stock riving knife was too thick for this new baby. After having purchased and installed MJ splitter, I am very happy because I can now use this thin kerf blade to rip all kinds of lumber safely. It works perfectly with a zero clearance insert (ZCI) dedicated to this new blade. BTW, my new thin kerf blade cuts much better than my old full kerf blade.
I also love the mini feather board feature of MJ splitter. Properly installed, the double splitters would push wood pieces slightly away from the blade after cutting, making safer and more accurate cut. I am thinking about buying another set of MJ splitters (1/8 kerf version) to replace the stock riving knife for my full kerf cross cut blade (even though I will have to buy another new ZCI), because I think MJ splitters works better than riving knifes. I personally know how scary and dangerous it could be when kick back happens on a table saw. Splitters (or riving knifes) is the single most important safety caution you can take to prevent kick backs.
BTW, for those who considers this product but have read about complaints of having difficulty drilling into plastic ZCI, make sure you use a 3/16 plastic drill bit to drill into plastic ZCI, instead of the general purpose drill bit comes with the package (which is good to drill into wood insert). You need to make sure the holes to be clean and tight. A $5 3/16 plastic drill bit is critical for a proper installation of MJ splitters, if you plan to use a plastic ZCI.
I think MJ splitter should be installed on every woodworker's table saw. Highly recommended!!
Some reviewers have complained that they were unable to set the splitters precisely, or that their tablesaw insert was too small to use these, but I have had no such trouble. There are several different splitters included in the package, and each will give you a different amount of pressure on the workpiece. While this pressure on workpiece helps to control the board as it's being pushed through the blade, it also makes pushing the board more difficult. I also have the GRipper push-block, which is almost a must if you're using this system because of the friction that is applied on the board you are cutting.
That being said, I like the system. It is much better than push block alone, the plastic splitters are rugged and and slick. The jig for setting of your insert is easy to make, and the directions are clear and easy to read and understand.
Top reviews from other countries
However, the only thing I am concerning now is about the plastic coats on the splliters. THEY ARE NOT DURABLE AT ALL. I got my first spillter package then 4 of them are all have LARGE cracks on it. I thought it should be normal but after I checked the comments on AMAZON.COM I found a couple of person complained about the coats too. Once I realized the crack should be the quality problem, I submitted an replacement.
The second one arrived very quick. However, It still have cracks on ALL of them, despite the cracks are much lesser than the previous one. I am not kinda picky person, so I choose to keep it, but I am really worry about if the cracks gonna cause any safety problem in future.
I wish I really could give it 5 star because I am really stratified how the idea come up with, and the great service of AMAZON. but due to the quality control of the coats on the splliter, I can only give it four stars. And I will keep watching it; if one day the cracks became large, I probably would come back and lower the rating.