Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear Paperback – November 15, 1988
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About the Author
JOHN MARSHALL, who studied traditional dyeing and garment construction in Japan for five years, is a textile artist and fashion designer.
- Publisher : Kodansha USA; 1st edition (November 15, 1988)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 136 pages
- ISBN-10 : 087011865X
- ISBN-13 : 978-0870118654
- Item Weight : 1.05 pounds
- Dimensions : 9.9 x 0.5 x 7 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #1,043,099 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- Customer Reviews:
Top reviews from the United States
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Keep in mind this is NOT a pattern for Kimono, but a book that instills technique.
If the reader is one who wants to proceed from A through Z in the expected order...forget it. It's more like D through P, back to A with a crossreference to Q along the way. Assembly notes will have you jump pages back to a series of procedures illustrated (if illustrated) by a graphic found on yet another page. You then must jump forward to the original description, which also will be pages away from its accompanying illustration.
There is little advice on western fabric types to use, what the lining weight could be or how thick the padding etc.
So, think of this as a shoot-from-the-hip project where she provides you with a multitude of options, anything goes and it's all up to you. You need to visualize in 3D and forget (or attenuate) your reflexive European clothing construction assembly methods. THIS BOOK WILL NOT LEAD YOU. YOU are the designer. YOU must make the decisions regarding sewing method/fabric compatability, drape and function. YOU must put the tabs or clip marks on the pattern etc.
IT IS A PLEASURE to find a book that relates body measurements to pattern sections. Most Euro patterns are based on "standard" body-types. The simple yukata that I am making will be much easier the second time around because the pattern will be shorn of all the customizing extras that fill this book. The decisions will have been made and the pattern will be set to my liking.
Be warned that you need LOTS of room for this. The yukata pattern for my 5'2" girlfriend is over 10ft long! Also, BIG drafting equipment is handy and a newspaper roll end provides plenty of inexpensive paper. The grid paper the author mentions is next to impossible to find, is too expensive, quite inaccurate and too small. You will thank yourself many times over if you buy a break-apart straight edge used for marking drywall at over 8ft long. Find it at Home Depot, Lowes or Amazon (Johnson Level and Tool 98" cutting guide). A 12" French Curve would be nice too.
Get ready to be a designer, because that is what it takes.
UPDATE: After following and testing the author's procedures in some of the construction phases, I have this conclusion. Her intent seems to be (once again, no pun intended) oriented toward silk or silk-like fabric. It also may follow that the garments are not meant to be everyday durable, hence, not washed often and/or are to be disassembled on rare occasions to be cleaned. MY intent is the opposite.
COTTON is the fabric of choice for my yukatas and the construction must be durable. They are to be worn daily and washed like any other clothes. SO, think ahead as you follow instructions, most may not apply to you. Fancy basting, yards of blind stitching and fussy time-wasting puckers on curves are simply unnecessary. French seams and maybe a facing or two will solve most of the raw edge problems as will edge finishing with a serger. Nice Japanese-made yukatas meant to be worn (not to be seen in once or twice) have serged raw edges. It's quick and durable (though it is hard to beat a good French seam).
Also, her start/stop, change of sewing direction advice (probably meant to prevent distortion) is not necessary on stable fabric. After using her method on one sleeve and my standard method (no direction change, just sew through) on the other, there was no difference. With my standard method considerable time and flopping of fabric was saved. So, don't slavishly follow procedure if it seems excessive. It probably is.
Top reviews from other countries
The patterns and sewing instructions are easy to follow, I have made four Yukata for the females of my family for Christmas and I look forward to trying out other garments from this book.
The Kimono is a beautiful and elegant garment. With this book to help, it is my hope to make something really special.
This book has been well worth the purchase.
It's clear and easy to use! Would recommend