|Item Weight||8 ounces|
|Package Dimensions||12.2 x 5.6 x 1.7 inches|
|Item model number||FCMS|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Warranty Description||Limited Lifetime|
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Malco FCMS 5-Inch to 8-Inch Exposure Facing Gauge and Overlap Gauge Set
|Price:||$30.70 & FREE Shipping. Details|
- Enter your model number to make sure this fits.
- Allows for easy and accurate 1-person siding installations
- The gauge acts like an extra pair of hands to prop up one end of the plank
- Set includes 1 facing gauge and 1 overlap gauge
- Durable nylon facing gauge adjusts to 5, 6, 7, and 8-inch exposures without tools
- No adjustments to vary and nothing to mark
- Will not mar finish of pre-painted siding
- Made in the USA
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MALCO PRODUCTS Fiber Cement Overlap
The Malco FCMS Facing Gauge and Overlap Gauge Set offers two popular tools for fiber cement siding -- a facing gauge and an overlap gauge. The fiber cement facing gauge is used to accurately measure the exposure of the siding and guard against sagging, it can be set to exposures of 5, 6, 7, and 8 inches. This facing gauge is easily adjusted without the need of tools or fasteners, and it can be held with one hand when steadying a new plank for nailing. The facing gauge is made of tough, long-lasting, weather-resistant nylon. The metal overlap gauge is used to support one end of a plank and give it the proper overlap, a pair of overlap gauges can be used to support the entire plank if desired. This overlap gauge can be removed without damage to the siding. When used in combination, the facing gauge and overlap gauge allow you to prop up one end of the plank for easy and accurate 1-person installation of fiber cement siding.See all Product description
Top Customer Reviews
So what are their flaws? Well...
The metal gauge 'measures' from the top of a board while the red plastic one 'measures' from the bottom. To get perfect alignment you need to have both gauges AND the siding aligned perfect for each piece. That cannot ever happen for the reasons below.
· The siding is not consistent in size/width; close, but not perfect. Variations do exist.
· Since the metal gauge measures from the top, it is measuring the overlap between pieces, not the reveal which is the most crital measurement for aesthetics.
· The metal gauge relies on consistent operator placement of the siding in the same position (in/out from the wall) each time. In/out position changes here result in differences in the siding's height. Not the gauges fault, but perfect alignment doesn't happen every time either.
· The metal gauge flexes/bends and moves slightly resulting in inconsistent placement as well.
· The vertical placement (attachment) of the metal gauge on top of the previous siding course may not always be the same do to operator variance.
· The plastic gauge is the most reliable/consistent, but it does bend slightly under the weight or pressure of holding the siding as you jockey it into position. Unless you look for and correct any bending, the alignment can be off slightly.
· My plastic gauge's reveal was slightly under 7-1/16" instead of exactly 7" like it should have been. While not too big of a deal, adding this error up over 20-30 courses can change your layout slightly; particularly as you notch the siding around windows. Leaving too small a strip either above or below your windows and doors can look bad. Measure its exact reveal BEFORE beginning your install and lay things out accordingly.
OK, all that aside, how do you best use these things to get as consistent an alignment as possible? Basically, only use the metal Gauge as a 3rd hand to hold the siding in place in its 'approximate' position, but use the plastic one to do your actual 'fine tuning'.
First, install the metal one on the far end of where you will install your next siding piece. Place the plastic gauge at the new vertical seam (1/2 under the previously installed piece of the new row and half under the bottom of the new piece). This will ensure that the bottoms of the seams align - aesthetically important! Put in one nail at this edge. Now move to the middle of the new siding piece and again gauge the reveal with the red gauge (move the siding up/down as needed). Put in another single nail. Next remove the metal gauge on the far end, but still support the siding slightly with your hand until you position the red gauge on the far end. Add another single nail. Now, go back and put in your nails (w/o gauges) between the 3 nails according to your nailing schedule. This should leave you a consistent, if not exact, reveal across your siding.
Once you get the hang of this technique you should be able to speed this up by nailing between the 2nd and 1st nail before moving to the far end and finishing. Of course if you are using a ladder(s) instead of a scaffold or pump jack system you will want to master this technique quickly.
One other tip on using the red gauge. This works well as a layout tool for measuring the lengths of mitered gable pieces. Slide the gauge on your last course to the side until the gauge butts up against your gable eave or frieze board. Use a pencil to make a light line on your siding using the flat surface on the TOP of the gauge. Now you can see where the siding's mitered point will meet the gable for your measurements.
Also, if you need to make miter cuts on both ends of a piece and have a partner to help, make a line on the siding as mentioned above on one end, then give the red gauge to your partner. Have them hold it in place on the other end and hook the edge of your tape measure over the top of the red gauge to get your measurement from tip-to-tip on your double mitered piece.
This product works great. If you set the first line properly the entire wall should fall into place. Check it every 5 rows or so and sneak it back in if you have to. If you were careful then it should be consistent regardless of the tolerance of the planks!