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Merax Finiss 26" Aluminum 21 Speed Mountain Bike with Disc Brakes
|Price:||$249.00 & FREE Shipping|
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- 🚲 Lightweight Heat Treated Aluminum 19" Mountain Frame
- 🚲 26" Double Wall Aluminum Rims Wheels for Smooth Rolling
- 🚲 Shimano 21-speed Derailleurs and Shifters for Fast and Reliable Shifting
- 🚲 Front and Rear Mechanical Disc Brakes
- 🚲 Suspension Fork 80mm Travel provides smooth rides on bumpy surfaces and increases control Rotate the fork a full 180-degree before assembling the front wheel (after proper rotation, the brake will be at the front of the bike)
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Rotate the fork a full 180-degree before assembling the front wheel (after proper rotation, the brake will be at the front of the bike)
1. Assemble the front wheel with quick-release pin, no tools needed.
2. The left and right side pedal threads are not the same and should be assembled on its corresponding side. L/R signs are marked on the spindle of the each pedal. Make sure they are assembled on the correct side (when you ride the bike, left pedal should be on your left hand side, right pedal on your right hand side). The right side pedal has a right-hand thread (installed clockwise, removed counterclockwise). The left side pedal has a left-hand thread (installed counterclockwise, removed clockwise).
Thread both pedals into the crank arms as far as you can by hand, and then fully tighten them with the wrench. If the pedals are not fully tightened, they may become loose and damage the threads. We will NOT be responsible for such damages.
3. Assembly and Tuning Required
This bicycle arrives 85% assembled. You will need to install the pedals, front wheel, handlebar and fill the tires with air.
4. Please MAKE SURE to refer to the link below before purchasing the bike: http://www.merax.com/helpcenter.html
Weight Capacity: 330 lbs
For safety reasons, tires are not fully inflated before shipping. It's suggested that you inflate the tires properly before your first ride.
Frame: 6061 Heat Treated Aluminum
Fork: Suspension Fork Alloy 80mm Travel
Shifters: Shimano EF51 21 Speed
Wheels: Double Wall Aluminum Rims
Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ50
Front Derailleur: Shimano FD-TZ30
Crank: Aluminum Triple 42/34/24
Brakes: Mechanical Disc
Brake Levers: Shimano Aluminum
Seatpost: Aluminum w/ clamp 31.8 M8*60MM
Pedals: Aluminum 9/16"
Number of Speeds: 21 Product weight: 33 lbs
Frame size: 19"
Color: Classic Black&Red
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1. Tire size. This comes with 26" x 1.95" tires, better than you might think, but the front needs to be upgraded for real dirt trails. The back can stay as is for a while. Get something between 2.35 inches and 2.5 inches (Maxxis, Kenda, etc.). Make sure it's knobby. I got the CST Rock Hawk and it was a dramatic increase in performance. It also helped smooth out bumps (see fork below). I put Slime self-sealing tubes in because I don't run tubeless and I'm sure these wheels are not up to that anyway. You can also upgrade to a 27.5" or even 29" tire if you buy the appropriate-sized front fork.
2. Drivetrain. Contrary to popular belief, freewheels are not quite as bad as everyone says. The two bad things about them are that they put extra pressure on the rear axle (see broken axle above), and they don't climb hills very good. This one is 14-28t (teeth); 14 teeth for the smallest cog is slow on the road, and 28 teeth for the largest cog can't climb anything over a 20% incline. The solution? DNP sells an 11-32t 7-speed freewheel for $33 (took me a LONG time to find it on here). There are also 14-34t freewheels but the 11-32t is the best overall range. Wait until your chain and/or crappy front derailleur wears out (also upgrade the front derailleur with a $15 Shimano FD-TX50 Tourney Front Derailleur (34.9-28.6-mm 3x6/7 Speed Low-Clamp; there is at least one other better derailleur out there for cheap as well). You will notice that when starting up inclines, the front chainring will often not go from middle gear to low gear. It's because this stock front derailleur is weak. Upgrading is cheap, the local bike shop will charge around $40 labor to do that and the chain and freewheel. This will cost roughly $100 total, so again this bike is OK if you cannot afford $400+ at first, but a $400-600 bike will not have these problems to begin with; they will have a cassette-based system and a better front derailleur.
3. Brakes. This is the most important upgrade. The stock mechanical disks...well at least they are not V-brakes. But they are weak and annoyingly squeaky. This is also something to upgrade for sure when you have the money. Hayes Dyno Comps or lower-end Shimano or Tektro hydraulic brakes, along with $35 stand-alone Shimano 7-speed shifters can be done for around $120-180 without bike shop labor. Make sure they are pre-bled if you do it yourself. This is not cheap to do but it's very important for real trails. It's by far the best upgrade you can do on the bike. If you have not experienced hydraulic brakes you do not know what you are missing. I cannot stand non-hydraulic brakes anymore. If you are still on a strict budget (a recurring theme in this review), Shimano sells a $20 BR-M375 Disc Brake Caliper, FT or RR, it's better than the stock setup and not hard to install.
4. Fork. This 80mm coil fork is...kind of like the brakes, it's better than a 60mm fork but that's not saying much. With a skinny 1.95 inch tire it's going to be a bumpy ride. Get a wider tire, run at around 35 psi, and the tire will magically work with the fork not only to smooth out the ride but will also bring out the best in this fork. Why do I say that? I timed a downhill trail on the upgraded fatter tire with and without the fork on rigid lockout. The bike was 11% faster down the hill with the fork on the softest setting than on rigid. There was no significant difference between rigid and softest settings with the 1.95 inch tire. A fatter tire will work with the fork together for performance. Just don't ask me how. If you want you can upgrade to a 100mm air fork for around $180-370 more. 120mm too but that may be pushing it for this bike's frame (you will also need a better head tube, the bike shop will give you advice on this stuff).
5. Seat and handlebars. Buy a nice wide, cushy seat (something like Zacro Gel Bike Saddle - BS053 Dual Spring Designed Suspension Artificial Leather Bike Seat Bicycle Saddle with 1 Mounting Wrench for around $20). Between the cushier seat and fatter front tire this hardtail with an 80mm fork will be much more tolerable over the bumps. You can also raise the handlebars to a more enjoyable and ergonomic level: Trenztek Aluminum Alloy Adjustable Bike Stem Riser MTB Bicycle Handlebar Raiser Road Bike Extender Fixed 31.8mm, roughly $20.
Bottom line: strict budget = buy this bike (it's the best buy under $300 period). If you are doing real trails out there you will need to spend as much on upgrades (front tire, freewheel, front derailleur, hydraulic brakes/stand-alone shifters, seat, etc.) for as much or more money as this bike was worth to begin with. If you have that money to begin with, there are a few different bikes out there for $400-600 that will need minimal upgrading because they already have the components you should look for: hydraulic brakes, a 24-27 speed cassette-based system (with a better front derailleur), 100 mm fork, and 27.5" or 29" inch tire sizes (I prefer 27.5").
I think this is a great starter bike for a e-bike project. The bike is a little heavier then nicer more expensive bikes but that doesn't really matter with an e-bike. The bike has lower end Shimano hardware but that also doesn't really matter as I rarely need to switch gears. The breaks work great and the front fork provides a comfy ride.
I put almost 200 miles on the bike my first summer. I replaced the tires not because they were completely worn but I needed something that could handle deep mud. My goal is 500 miles this summer. This bike has been a delight.
To sum up;
Easy to put together
Fair chance of minor brake issues (either light rubbing or squeal when braking)
I'd highly recommend getting a tune up after assembly if you're not experienced, which is about another $50-$60
Front reflector doesn't fit anywhere on the handle bar or stem (I tried for an hour before I nixed it)
Overall I believe its bridges the gap between cheap and expensive. You get what you pay for and although there may be one or two things about the bike you're not crazy about, you won't be disappointed. This bike is perfect for the intermediate rider. You'll get your money's worth pretty quickly. Just think of all the Ubers you won't have to pay for.