|Item Weight||4.2 ounces|
|Package Dimensions||7.2 x 4.1 x 1.6 inches|
Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA Add-on Hot Bed Power Expansion Board MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer
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- APPLICATION: This high power module is a general add-on heated bed power expansion module for 3D printer. It can work with the Anet A8.
- MOTHERBOARD: The heat bed power module can be used in both Chitu motherboard and other open 3D printer motherboards.
- 25A MAXIMUM CURRENT: This high power module helps your 3D printer equipped with the Chitu controller board (capable of max 15A) become even more powerful. With this add-on module to board lead the maximum current up to 25A.
- GOOD PROTECTION: When using heated bed 3D printer for 12V power supply which may cause excessive current during times, with this module, it can well protect the connectors on the controller board from burning.
- PACKAGE INCLUDES: 2 x Heated bed power module (motherboard is not included) and 2 x Connection cable for input signal.
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Size: 6 x 5 x 3.1cm / 2.36 x 1.97 x 1.22"
Mounting holes: 3.2mm diameter, for M3 screws.
Max Current: 25A (Enhance heat dissipation) safe for prolonged times. ensure active cooling of the heatsink.
This module is based on power MOSFET and will allow PID control of the heated bed (DC-DC Relays usually do not allow this)
This module under the premise of normal cooling, found at I (Max) = 25A stable work situation, the process of using the current not exceed 25A.
2 x Heated Bed Power Expansion Module
2 x Connection cable for input signal
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The reason this loses one star is that it has a nifty little feature that allows you to wire the 12V bed signal in any polarity, meaning that if you swap signal wires, you won't burn anything up. While this seems like a really great design choice, it actually creates a bit of a problem. When you start dealing with rectifiers, what you are ACTUALLY doing is adding diodes to the mix. Each diode will knock a chunk of the voltage off. With two diodes and an optocoupler, you need around 1.6V+1.6V+3.2V=6.4V in order to trigger the mosfet. In short, this means that you can't just route a PWM pin directly from your microcontroller to add an extra fan or hotend.
I would go as far to say that if you have purchased one of these, you are comfortable enough with wiring that you should be able to match "+" to "+" and "-" to "-" (aka ground or 0V). The rectifier was a move on their part to prevent folks from blowing up the unit and returning it through Amazon.
The included wire and terminal connectors are a nice touch. This module generally rests on top of the control box or next to the control board. I found there to be plenty of wire to splice and solder the wires to those coming out of my control box. It rests on top of the control box now in another box printed from Thingiverse and has been working away through days of printing.
They use a bridge rectifier for the signal input (polarity of the signal wire doesn't matter), the control signal input is optically isolated from the mosfet so it should be safe to use a separate power supply, but I haven't tested this.
These mosfet's run very cool.
Mine didn't come with documentation and the on line instructions were for a different model but the screen printing on the circuit board make it obvious how to wire them.
I recommend running separate power wires from the power supply to the heated bed mosfet and then jumping from the heated bed mosfet to the the hot end mosfet.
Phenomenal Customer Service too!!! They Deserve 10 Stars. Perfect!!!
I highly recommend them to every 3D Printer owner.