- Product Dimensions: 20 x 19.5 x 11.2 inches
- Shipping Weight: 29 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
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- ASIN: B01JBEF3T8
- Item model number: 115711
- Average Customer Review: 583 customer reviews
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Monoprice Maker Select Plus 3D Printer
|Price:||$399.99 & FREE Shipping. Details|
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- Support for All Filament Types: The heated build plate and wide range of extruder temperatures allow this printer to work with any type of filament, from basic filaments, such as ABS and PLA, to more advanced materials, such as conductive PLA, wood and metal composites, or dissolvable PVA.
- Quality Assurance/Technical Assistance: Live chat at Monoprice.com Mon through Fri 6am – 6pm PST | Email at email@example.com | Phone at 877-271-2592 Mon through Fri 6am – 5pm PST.
- Compact Desktop Design: Featuring a small footprint and basic, open frame design, this 3D printer is compact enough for any desk.
- Ready to Print: Unlike most other low-cost 3D printers, this printer ships fully assembled and has already been calibrated at the factory. We even include sample PLA filament and a MicroSD card with preinstalled models, so you can start printing right out of the box!
- Heated aluminum build plate nozzle cooling fan for printing all filament types. Complete kit with sample PLA filament, bed scraper, and MicroSD card with preloaded model files. Micro USB and MicroSD card connectivity. PC and Mac compatible. Compatible with Cura, Repetier, and other software.
|Specification Met||certified frustration-free|
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From the manufacturer
- Print Resolution: 100 microns (0.1 mm)
- Printing Speed: 70 mm/sec
- Build Area: 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" (200 x 200 x 180mm)
What's in the Box
Maker Select Plus 3D Printer, Spool holder, Spool stand, AC power cord, USB cable, SD card, Scraper, PTFE tube, Hex key set, 6 Hex bolts, 2 Cable ties, 10m PLA filament, Print bed mat, User's manual.
Built upon the design of the Maker Select 3D Printer, the Maker Select Plus 3D Printer now features a unified design with an integrated control box and a smaller footprint. Like the previous models, the Maker Select Plus 3D Printer features a large 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area, but with a 50% faster print speed. The LCD menu system has been upgraded to a large 3.25" touch screen system, with a simpler and easier to use design with on-the-fly print tuning options. The improved Anti-Jam MK10 extruder features a 0.4mm nozzle diameter and 100 micron layer resolution, allowing you to create smooth, high quality prints.
Easy to Use Touch Screen
Space Saving Design
Ready to Print in 10 Minutes!
Unlike DIY kits, this printer comes almost fully assembled, requiring just 4 screws to secure the frame to the base and 2 screws to attach the filament holder. Additionally, the printer comes with everything you need, including sample PLA filament and a microSD card with sample 3D model files, ready to print!
With the ability to use both open-source and commercial software, such as Cura, Repetier, or Simplify 3D, the Maker Select Plus 3D Printer is compatible with Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux.
The large 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area allows you to create larger, more complex, and more detailed models.
If you're ready to take your ideas and designs from paper or CAD file to the next level, the Monoprice MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is the perfect starter solution for your needs! Unlike kit-based printers, which require a certain level of knowledge, experience, and time to assemble, the MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is assembled using only 6 screws and includes everything you need to begin printing right out of the box. It has the ability to print any type of 3D filament and has a price point lower than most DIY kits, making it the best in class choice for your 3D printing needs.
Style: Select Plus
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Top customer reviews
From all the upgrades I've done, I would say having a dedicated Raspberry Pi server running Octoprint was the most useful and borosilicate glass bed really helped on first layer problems. After that, go crazy with Z-braces, microswiss hotend, aluminum carriage etc.
After everything is installed you have about $500 machine that prints @ a much higher quality than most things 3x it's price.
This printer is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3, which you need to know because there is loads of helpful info and modifications on the net for the Wanhao i3. Search for both when you have questions and issues.
The printer has an all metal build, an 8"x8"x7" build capacity, a heated bed, and an LCD display. It's based on the Prussa i3, which is a rep rap design. That means that replacement parts can be printed or easily sourced. This is important because there will likely be upgrades you'll want to make in the future and parts can fail.
Out of the box, it printed PLA beautifully. I was genuinely surprised at the quality of my prints before I did any tweaking or mods. I find that I print PLA most of the time because it prints so easily with very few issues and the resulting prints look great consistently. However, there are quite a few, well-documented mods that are easy to perform and will improve print quality and ease of printing even more. I suggest Googling 3dprinterbrain and look at the info for the Duplicator i3 (same printer as this one.) They have a list of mods that are exceptional plus instructions for PID autotuning, etc. I've done all of the recommended mods and most of the extra mods suggested on that site. The two guys who own that site, Jetguy and James Armstrong, work closely with Wanhao (who builds these printers) and they are experts on this machine. They have tutorials that walk you through initial set up and beyond. I would consider their site required reading.
When you order, go to the Monoprice website and print out the owner's manual. It's not included in the box and it's a helpful, good reference. Also, I suggest watching a few of the many, good videos on YouTube for setting up and printing with this (or the Wanhao i3) printer, especially if you are completely new to 3D printing.
You'll also want to order some PLA to get started since only a small sample comes with the printer. I've found Hatchbox to be a good brand you can find here on Amazon. I also like the PLA found on the Printrbot website because it's of good quality and very inexpensive.
As recommended by Monoprice and Wanhao, I'm using Cura as my slicer and it's great (and free.) Although Monoprice recommends printing from an SD card, I don't. I've had no problem printing from my Surface Pro via USB (although be certain to turn off any power management because if your computer goes to sleep during a long print, you're screwed.)
Since this is a value-priced printer, you should probably understand that there are a few areas where that shows. For example, bed leveling is done manually. Since a bed that is parallel to the print nozzle is crucial to a successful print, you have to get good at this. There are quite a few video tutorials on this and all it takes is a sheet of paper and some patience to get it just right. It takes a good bit of practice to be able to do this quickly. It's definitely worth the trouble to get a perfectly level bed. The printer comes with wing nuts for leveling, which are a little awkward. The first thing I printed was 4 adjustment wheels (which can be found on Thingiverse) to make this task easier. Note that the bed seems to require re-leveling every few days and whenever the printer is moved.
Update 2/18/2016: I purchased 4 M3 Lock nuts and put them on the underside of the heated bed leveling screws (Google M3 lock nut mod for Wanhao i3) and then printed 4 Wanhao Duplicator i3 Bed Spring Guides found on Thingiverse. This has stabilized the bed leveling springs so well that I no longer have to level the bed every couple of days. I highly recommend this mod.
I also highly recommend the Z braces for Wanhao Duplicator i3 modeled by AzzA, which are also found on Thingiverse. This mod takes a while to print all of the parts but only requires a few purchased parts that are readily available at any hardware store and cost way less than $10. It gets rid of the slight wobble in the frame and virtually eliminates the need to re-level the X-axis guide rods every time you move the printer even slightly.
Also, speaking of moving, the printer and the power supply/control box are connected via cabling that cannot be unplugged. They must be moved together. This can be awkward for one person - much easier for two people. There is now a newer version that has the power supply/control panel integrated into the printer so no separate box.
Another reviewer mentioned the included micro SD card is of poor quality and I've read this numerous places on the net. It's definitely an no-name card so I never used it. Instead I copied the data to a larger capacity Samsung brand card and tossed the one included. You do want to copy the data because it contains the recommended settings for Cura for this particular printer, as well as a couple of models to print.
Also, although this printer is capable of printing a wide range of materials, it doesn't right out of the box. To print nylon, I had to buy and install an all-metal hot end kit. To print flexible TPU, I have had to order an extruder gear that can manage the wet noodle consistency of the TPU. Because my house is old and drafty and cold in the winter, I have to use an enclosure (a large cardboard box) to print ABS with good success. I also added a piece of borosilicate glass as my print bed because IMO, that and Aquanet extra hold hairspray makes printing PLA a breeze with no adhesion issues.
I also printed a piece (again, found on Thingiverse) that angles the LCD screen up so that it's easier to see and use. I definitely recommend this modification for the original version of this printer. A later version already has the angled screen so this mod isn't necessary.
If you're completely new to 3D printing, remember that much of the time, it's an exercise in trial and error. There are so many variables that go into getting a good print - filament, extruder temperature, a level bed, extruder calibration, bed adhesion, belt tension, cooling, room temperature, etc. This is about as DIY as you can get and you should expect to learn new things every day when 3d printing, including how to upgrade, repair and/or replace parts. Stick with it, Google a lot and enjoy the learning curve. For me, this printer has a lot of features at a very reasonable price and I'm super happy with it.
I'm happy to answer any questions, if I can, or help you find a good resource on the net if you need help beyond my skill set.
UPDATE: I recently ordered quite a bit of PLA from Printrbot and sadly, there are some issues with brittleness. To their credit, they emailed saying they were aware that some recent spools were brittle and offered to replace them if returned within a week or two. For that reason, I wouldn't suggest ordering more than one or two spools at a time from them so that you can test them before the return period is over. I'll probably just stick to ordering Hatchbox filaments from now on.
UPDATE: 11/17/2016 Almost a year after getting this printer, it's still printing beautifully! Because everyone in my house is into 3D printing now, it's in use every single day. Other than the occasional stubborn jam in the nozzle, I've had no issues at all. (BTW, one of those little kitchen blow torches made for caramelizing sugar on top of creme brulee is perfect for burning out a clogged nozzle. Remove the nozzle and place it on a brick and hit it with the blowtorch. The clog will liquefy and then turn to powder.)
The other thing I highly recommend is buying an 18" x 18" piece of ceramic floor tile to place under the printer. Apparently it is very common for a tabletop to be less than flat and mine definitely was not flat. Since I did this, I rarely have to re-level the X-axis guide rods.
UPDATE 4/24/2017: Suddenly, after printing via a USB cable (rather than a micro SD card), I could no longer communicate with the printer over a USB cable. Of course, I tried a different cable but no joy. After Googling, I found others having this problem and the fix was to remove a jumper on the pins labeled AUTO RESET on the main board inside the power box. This was literally a 5 second fix, not counting opening the power box. It solved the problem instantly. I suspect that the issue has to do with updates to Cura, the slicer software I use. If you encounter this issue, Google and you will find step by step directions to solve the problem. I would include a link but Amazon doesn't allow it.
For the price and the build capacity, I think it's still one of the best deals around in 3D printers. So much so that I just bought a second one for another son for Christmas. The print quality is just so good and the price, especially when you catch a sale as I did, is still great compared to other printers with comparable features and build volume.
I have contacted Monoprice to see if they will honor the 1 year warranty. If you get this printer the first thing you should do is manually set the hot end and printer bed up to the max settings to verify you do not have a faulty power supply. I wish I would have done this because you can send back the printer to Amazon if the power supply or any other part is faulty as long as you are in the 30 day window, but after that you will need to working with Monoprice directly.
Nov 1, 2016 Update: Monoprice sent me an email regarding the issue and asked me for the Amazon invoice so I am hoping they can resolve the issue. Nov 4th: Monoprice issued a RMA number so that I can return my unit. Nov 7th: Printer is on the way back to Monoprice. Nov 14th: Printer delivered to Monoprice. Nov 16th:Replacement printer has been shipped, things are proceeding well. Nov 20th: Got new replacement printer and it is working great. Once I run this printer some more I will probably give it another star.
I had a filament jam due to my own fault but was able to clear it by removing 2 screws. The filament had wrapped around the extruder gear but it was easy to take out. The one thing that is a huge factor with this printer is that there are a ton of videos for this model so when something goes wrong it is easy to search the internet for solutions. There are extra items included -- keep these in a safe place because they will make life easier if you have a filament jam. In particular, the drill bit and long wire (piano wire). I liked that these were included because sooner or later you are bound to have a filament jam if you try printing with different materials since they all have different heating properties.
In doing research, I found out that heated air chambers are patented by one company so that is why many vendors may have an enclosure, but it is not heated. I found a large clear tupperware storage container that I now pace over the printer with a space heater that has a thermostat set so the air temperature is at 90F. Don't let the air temp. go higher than 100F because it will make the filament to soft and cause it to wrap around the extruder gear. If you are printing filament other than PLA then you may be able to go up to 114F.
In order to get everything under the tupperware container, I had to print a filament spool holder. The spool holder that I have found to work best uses a 608 bearings, also know as a skate board bearing. One the photos has the spool holder with the 608 bearings. I tried a spool holder that had a short base and sometimes the spool for get pulled off the holder. Take care to keep the filament tight because if it becomes too loose on the spool it will tangle will can cause your print to fail after your print job has been running for a few hours. Also, keep your filament spools in a zip lock bag so that they don't go bad, the filament will absorb moisture which will cause defects in the printed object. If this happens you will need to dry your the spool by placing it in the oven for 140 minutes. Looks up the exact temp. for the type of filament you are using. You need to pre-heat the oven and let it sit at that temperature for 10 minutes because most ovens will overshoot the target temp and gradually drop down but this may melt the actual spool that holds the filament.
Placing everything under the large tupperware container has made a huge difference on not having to have the bed leveled to a high degree because the filament (I use Hatchbox PLA) sticks super well. In fact it sticks so well that I use blue tape to make getting the print of the bed. I have the control unit placed outside of the tupperware so it does not overheat. Some say that the Maker select Plus is nicer because the controller and power supply is mounted on the frame, but if you want to use a heated chamber this is a disadvantage because the controller board and power supply will over heat-- so get this model. The Maker Select Plus does not use the standard Melzi board most likely due to the touch screen code. That means the code has not had as much testing coverage vs. using the stock open source code. My coworker got the maker select mini which uses a modified code base running on a different chip architecture and when trying to print a more complex 3D model the print stopped at 80% mark when printing from the SD card, but he was able to make the print work when printing from the USB cable. We think that this is related to the controller board not using stock open source firmware. We investigated if we could update the firmware but could not find adequate documentation to proceed.
You can also print a base frame so you can carry the controller and x-y-z frame as one piece. My unit has adjustable the Z endstop which you need if you decide to print on glass. I control this printer with OctoPrint (OctoPI) and AstroPrint. OctoPI lets me see the gcode that is get executed on the printer. If need to monitor the print while away from home, I run AstroPrint because I don't have to open up any firewalls. OctoPrint and AstroPrint are free and work well with this printer.
Also, it seems like I have the latest version with the large metal thumbscrews about the size a a nickel used to adjust the bed which I have only done once so far. My version also came with the fiber washers between the build plate and springs pushing against the thumbscrews. I also noticed that my version has z-motor dampeners which helps with print quality.
Another feature that has become a big deal for me is how big the build volume is. If you place the part diagonally you can have parts that are 11 inches long. Once you start print things for your household (brackets, mounts, frames, power tool holders, organizers) you will be glad. My office worker got the mini select and i had to print a bracket so he could mount his router to the wall. The only thing he can print are small toy like objects or smaller screw clips.
Speaking of printing large objects on this printer, the build surface is the 3M PEI also known as Buildtak. It really works well but the bigger objects are hard to remove from the build plate. Heating the bed is no help - I have read other people hitting the object with a hammer but that will throw off the level of the bed. I have found a much better solution with is to build the object using the raft option that is available in the slicer software included on the SD card. As last resort I have used a heat gun to soften the PLA on a corner of the print object to get the paint scraper under the print. Do not use the include paint scraper that comes with the printer because it has a 90 degree edge that will scrape the surface, find a print removal tool that has rounded edges. I got a set of 5 tools all with rounded edges for around $9 online but you get pick these up at any hobby store under the paint supply area - ask for a painters steel palette knife.
The other day I turned on the printer and the fan motor on the controller box started to make a loud noise but would go away after about 3 minutes. I searched the web for solutions and it involves putting a drop of oil the fan bearings which is located in the middle of the fan covered by a sticker by the manufacturer. When doing this it is important not to use WD-40 because that is a degreaser, instead use light sewing machine oil or PFTE oil. To get to the fan you have to remove 4 screws on the back on the control unit and 2 screws keeping the DC fan in place. It was simple and only took 5 minutes. I also noticed that the fan on the controller box appears to be the same one used on the filament fan and hot end fan. This is good because you basically have a spare dc fan. I will eventually replace the fan on the controller fan with a larger one that does not produce as much noise. The fan adapter plates can be found online for free. Also, if you move the fan to the outside of the controller box it does not make as much noise, make sure the not to reverse the air flow, it should blow air out of the controller box.
Make sure you watch and re-watch videos on how to adjust the bed because you can damage and possible bend the build plate if the nozzle press down on the plate to hard. Use the paper / dollar bill method to verify the bed is at the right height, other methods may cause problems.
Once your build plate is bent, your larger prints will no longer stick and which is very frustrating. If the build plate gets bent you have a few options. 1) Replace the build plate. 2) try printing with a heated build chamber 3) print on glass 4) use a KISSlicer which has a feature to compensate for print beds that have a crown( are no longer flat - typically the middle is lower and corners are higher) 5) where the bed is lower that the rest of the plate, put a few strips of blue tape in the valleys which kinda like filling in potholes..
I have include a photo done with wood PLA. I also printed a watch charger and stand.
If you are not going to spend over $500 for a more advance printer then get this exact model -- it simply does not get any better at this price point. I am going put the printer through it paces for the next few months and if all goes well another star will be added to this review. Hope this helps others, happy printing.