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Showing 1-10 of 487 reviews(Verified Purchases). See all 528 reviews
on November 4, 2016
I've had this printer for about 4 months and this was my first entry into the hobby. If you want something that works perfectly every time and needs little maintenance, this is probably not for you. That said, if you're willing to put the effort in this is a great tool and good way to understand all the little odds and ins involved. I've had ~190 hours of print time so far; about 70% of that was successful. After the initial honeymoon you'll probably start looking into upgrades, which there are a lot of. Considering the competition in the $300 price range, this is going to be the best bet.

From all the upgrades I've done, I would say having a dedicated Raspberry Pi server running Octoprint was the most useful and borosilicate glass bed really helped on first layer problems. After that, go crazy with Z-braces, microswiss hotend, aluminum carriage etc.

After everything is installed you have about $500 machine that prints @ a much higher quality than most things 3x it's price.
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on October 31, 2016
I was planning on giving a 4 or 5 star review but was unlucky and had an issue 6 weeks into using the printer and will probably bump up the rating once my issue is resolved. The printer was printing really well with PLA. I then set the bed temperature from the default 60C to 75C and it stopped working. The printer will now start prints but reboots mid print. I think there may be an issue with the power supply because it also tripped the breaker in the house.

I have contacted Monoprice to see if they will honor the 1 year warranty. If you get this printer the first thing you should do is manually set the hot end and printer bed up to the max settings to verify you do not have a faulty power supply. I wish I would have done this because you can send back the printer to Amazon if the power supply or any other part is faulty as long as you are in the 30 day window, but after that you will need to working with Monoprice directly.

Nov 1, 2016 Update: Monoprice sent me an email regarding the issue and asked me for the Amazon invoice so I am hoping they can resolve the issue. Nov 4th: Monoprice issued a RMA number so that I can return my unit. Nov 7th: Printer is on the way back to Monoprice. Nov 14th: Printer delivered to Monoprice. Nov 16th:Replacement printer has been shipped, things are proceeding well. Nov 20th: Got new replacement printer and it is working great. Once I run this printer some more I will probably give it another star.

I had a filament jam due to my own fault but was able to clear it by removing 2 screws. The filament had wrapped around the extruder gear but it was easy to take out. The one thing that is a huge factor with this printer is that there are a ton of videos for this model so when something goes wrong it is easy to search the internet for solutions. There are extra items included -- keep these in a safe place because they will make life easier if you have a filament jam. In particular, the drill bit and long wire (piano wire). I liked that these were included because sooner or later you are bound to have a filament jam if you try printing with different materials since they all have different heating properties.

In doing research, I found out that heated air chambers are patented by one company so that is why many vendors may have an enclosure, but it is not heated. I found a large clear tupperware storage container that I now pace over the printer with a space heater that has a thermostat set so the air temperature is at 90F. Don't let the air temp. go higher than 100F because it will make the filament to soft and cause it to wrap around the extruder gear. If you are printing filament other than PLA then you may be able to go up to 114F.

In order to get everything under the tupperware container, I had to print a filament spool holder. The spool holder that I have found to work best uses a 608 bearings, also know as a skate board bearing. One the photos has the spool holder with the 608 bearings. I tried a spool holder that had a short base and sometimes the spool for get pulled off the holder. Take care to keep the filament tight because if it becomes too loose on the spool it will tangle will can cause your print to fail after your print job has been running for a few hours. Also, keep your filament spools in a zip lock bag so that they don't go bad, the filament will absorb moisture which will cause defects in the printed object. If this happens you will need to dry your the spool by placing it in the oven for 140 minutes. Looks up the exact temp. for the type of filament you are using. You need to pre-heat the oven and let it sit at that temperature for 10 minutes because most ovens will overshoot the target temp and gradually drop down but this may melt the actual spool that holds the filament.

Placing everything under the large tupperware container has made a huge difference on not having to have the bed leveled to a high degree because the filament (I use Hatchbox PLA) sticks super well. In fact it sticks so well that I use blue tape to make getting the print of the bed. I have the control unit placed outside of the tupperware so it does not overheat. Some say that the Maker select Plus is nicer because the controller and power supply is mounted on the frame, but if you want to use a heated chamber this is a disadvantage because the controller board and power supply will over heat-- so get this model. The Maker Select Plus does not use the standard Melzi board most likely due to the touch screen code. That means the code has not had as much testing coverage vs. using the stock open source code. My coworker got the maker select mini which uses a modified code base running on a different chip architecture and when trying to print a more complex 3D model the print stopped at 80% mark when printing from the SD card, but he was able to make the print work when printing from the USB cable. We think that this is related to the controller board not using stock open source firmware. We investigated if we could update the firmware but could not find adequate documentation to proceed.

You can also print a base frame so you can carry the controller and x-y-z frame as one piece. My unit has adjustable the Z endstop which you need if you decide to print on glass. I control this printer with OctoPrint (OctoPI) and AstroPrint. OctoPI lets me see the gcode that is get executed on the printer. If need to monitor the print while away from home, I run AstroPrint because I don't have to open up any firewalls. OctoPrint and AstroPrint are free and work well with this printer.

Also, it seems like I have the latest version with the large metal thumbscrews about the size a a nickel used to adjust the bed which I have only done once so far. My version also came with the fiber washers between the build plate and springs pushing against the thumbscrews. I also noticed that my version has z-motor dampeners which helps with print quality.

Another feature that has become a big deal for me is how big the build volume is. If you place the part diagonally you can have parts that are 11 inches long. Once you start print things for your household (brackets, mounts, frames, power tool holders, organizers) you will be glad. My office worker got the mini select and i had to print a bracket so he could mount his router to the wall. The only thing he can print are small toy like objects or smaller screw clips.

Speaking of printing large objects on this printer, the build surface is the 3M PEI also known as Buildtak. It really works well but the bigger objects are hard to remove from the build plate. Heating the bed is no help - I have read other people hitting the object with a hammer but that will throw off the level of the bed. I have found a much better solution with is to build the object using the raft option that is available in the slicer software included on the SD card. As last resort I have used a heat gun to soften the PLA on a corner of the print object to get the paint scraper under the print. Do not use the include paint scraper that comes with the printer because it has a 90 degree edge that will scrape the surface, find a print removal tool that has rounded edges. I got a set of 5 tools all with rounded edges for around $9 online but you get pick these up at any hobby store under the paint supply area - ask for a painters steel palette knife.

The other day I turned on the printer and the fan motor on the controller box started to make a loud noise but would go away after about 3 minutes. I searched the web for solutions and it involves putting a drop of oil the fan bearings which is located in the middle of the fan covered by a sticker by the manufacturer. When doing this it is important not to use WD-40 because that is a degreaser, instead use light sewing machine oil or PFTE oil. To get to the fan you have to remove 4 screws on the back on the control unit and 2 screws keeping the DC fan in place. It was simple and only took 5 minutes. I also noticed that the fan on the controller box appears to be the same one used on the filament fan and hot end fan. This is good because you basically have a spare dc fan. I will eventually replace the fan on the controller fan with a larger one that does not produce as much noise. The fan adapter plates can be found online for free. Also, if you move the fan to the outside of the controller box it does not make as much noise, make sure the not to reverse the air flow, it should blow air out of the controller box.

Make sure you watch and re-watch videos on how to adjust the bed because you can damage and possible bend the build plate if the nozzle press down on the plate to hard. Use the paper / dollar bill method to verify the bed is at the right height, other methods may cause problems.
Once your build plate is bent, your larger prints will no longer stick and which is very frustrating. If the build plate gets bent you have a few options. 1) Replace the build plate. 2) try printing with a heated build chamber 3) print on glass 4) use a KISSlicer which has a feature to compensate for print beds that have a crown( are no longer flat - typically the middle is lower and corners are higher) 5) where the bed is lower that the rest of the plate, put a few strips of blue tape in the valleys which kinda like filling in potholes..

I have include a photo done with wood PLA. I also printed a watch charger and stand.

If you are not going to spend over $500 for a more advance printer then get this exact model -- it simply does not get any better at this price point. I am going put the printer through it paces for the next few months and if all goes well another star will be added to this review. Hope this helps others, happy printing.
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on July 2, 2017
It's built with some solid metal and building initially is just connecting two parts together with 4 screws, setting up a spool of filament and you're ready to print some small samples.

This printer is rated twice as fast (100mm/sec) as the MP Select Mini (50mm/sec) I've used. However if you want decent looking prints, you have to print no faster than 50mm/sec. You will get horrible looking prints if you run anywhere near full speed. Small little figurines will be possible in an hour or two. But if you want to do big prints that fill the 8" X 8" X 7" print area, you will be printing as long as a hundred hours for large high quality prints. The bed uses Build-Tac which I love but some might want to switch it to glass.

Also note that this printer can not actually print above 155mm (about 6 inches) tall. When the hotend goes higher, cables and parts will scrape on the top of the gantry. There is a mod to fix this but also requires other mods to keep it stable.

This printer has tons of mods already created for you to print. Its a very well tested and popular printer. But you will need to tinker with it. You won't just be printing like a 2D printer does on paper. There's a lot of things to learn including dialing settings that are perfect for you and the printer. You should be prepared to work on it and relevel the bed. Because this is the V2 printer version it has a few of the mods already done. But there's a lot left for you to do if you want to improve it. Of course that means spending more money. I've done a few and passed on some spending about $200 more for some parts that can't be printed. I'm still not done with mine. Most mods are to improve the quality of prints or to facilitate the ease of operation of the printer and are not actually a requirement to using this printer. But I'll guarantee you'll want some of them.

If you do get this from Amazon, you can get it a lot faster than ordering directly from Monoprice. But Monoprice will not do warranty guarantees for those who buy through Amazon. You're stuck doing warranty through Amazon. To be honest, even when I did get the other two models I owned directly from MP, they were still very difficult to deal with. (See the added comment below this review.) This printer is really the popular Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 just rebranded so finding compatible parts isn't tough at all. I've owned 2 other MP select printers and I like this one the best. It's open architecture makes it easy to mod or work on.

So if you don't mind tinkering ,you'll find this a very good printer. I love it. But I have been tinkering it. If you just want to print and never have to repair or mod it, don't buy this printer. If you don't want to tinker, you will need to be looking at $1000 and up printers designed for commercial use. You will likely have to tinker with all under $1000 printers. 3D printing is not easy but is very rewarding when it all comes together.

Your first few prints will likely include several failures till you learn the settings you and your printer work best with. So order at least two reels of filament as you'll waste a lot of plastic in the beginning. And be sure to start with PLA filament. ABS and some of the other types will add more to your learning curve and what you'll need to print other materials. I am still learning my near perfect PETG filament settings needed. Each type and manufacturer of filament has their own specifications you will need to modify to fit your needs and printer.

You will need to relevel the build plate every two or three prints done. Installing a glass plate or adding a more stable base plate and/or a few other mods can make this less necessary. There are even a few automatic bed leveling mods that require extra parts.

Don't buy for any child unless you plan to supervise them. 3D FDM printers like this one can start fires and burn you if you are not careful. The print bed will often be at scalding temperatures and the hot end will generally be even more at up to 260 degrees C (500 degrees F). It will be emitting plastic at those temps. Some of the control units have been known to smoke or catch fire. So use caution if you leave it unattended. As it comes you will be able to accidentally get your fingers into spinning fans because they are not covered. This can be a dangerous tool and should be treated as such.

In summation I like it very much. Just be prepared for some of the pitfalls of 3D printing.

Update 02-2018:
I have heavily used this printer and done many mods to it. It is quite a workhorse. But I have several printers now and it is a bit outdated. I primarily now only use printers with touch screens and all the electronics enclosed in a base. But this printer was by far the easiest to work on or mod because it's mechanics are all out in the open so you can get to them. I have acquired too many printers in my farm and decided to cull some. This was my only non-touchscreen one I had left. I sold it to a friend who is just starting 3D printing. He is now very much working with it and is also doing mods to make it his own. While outdated as far as modern features go, it's still a working viable printer that is great for beginners. If you need to have a printer you can learn on, but still have a decent sized print bed, this is the one. I've got hundreds of prints out of it and now it will likely serve it's new owner well too. You can't go wrong learning on one of these printers.
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on December 8, 2016
Once i got it set-up it's great. it took a little time to debug why i was getting a rats nest on some of the test prints. I'd recommend not using what's shipped with the SD card, instead get something simple from Thingiverse, run it through Cura with slower settings, copy the gcode to the SD card and run it. If it's not sticking to the bed, check for a clogged nozzle or your bed height.

Update Jan 17, 2017 -- Had the heated bed fail. Inspected the board and it burnt. Turns out I need to contact, since they can't help at directly.

Updated Jan 18, 2017 -- Unable to contact Monoprice. They've not gotten back to me despite many emails, chats and phone calls. I decided to just go it alone on upgrades. Warranty isn't worth anything as of right now.

Updated Jan 18, 2017 -- Amazon rocks. They are sending me a new one. This has exceeded my expectations. I'm also going to make sure I apply the MOSFET fix to the new one.
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on January 2, 2017
If you are willing to put in the time to learn about 3D printing, and will follow the recommendations by Terry (top review), then you will be thrilled with this inexpensive printer!!! This was a Christmas present for my 12 year old son. Frustration level was high in the beginning since we are totally new to this. I was determined to figure it out so I printed out Terry's review, researched different websites, looked on Thingiverse and Cura and had some trial runs with the printer. I can see how any 3D printer gets bad reviews. If you are new to this and don't put in the time and effort and do your research, a bad review will probably be written on a perfectly good printer.
Thank you Terry for your awesome review. After reading it multiple times, I knew this had to be a good printer. My son and I (and my husband, my two other sons and all their friends) are now printing item after item with no problems in design.
A few things I have learned: a glue stick on the print bed works amazing (I didn't have strong hold hairspray). PLA filament shouldn't be exposed to air when not in use (it is susceptible to moisture and will become brittle). Bed leveling is a pain in the butt, but definitely take the time to learn how to do it. Cura gives you the option of a "raft", "brim" or "skirt" in custom settings. A skirt is awesome because it gets the PLA flowing before it starts on your design. The raft is great for designs that need more support and a brim is simply like the brim of a hat...the bottom of your design just stretches out a bit, to help with surface adhesion. And "supports" are different from the above. Supports will hold your structure in place while being made so that it doesn't flop! You need supports when your design has overhangs. My prints have done better in Cura under custom settings rather than recommended. You will need to research what the terms mean in custom settings (if you're new to this). But once you know the terms you can adjust your settings better. Also, when looking at designs on Thingiverse, look at the recommended settings that the designer gives (the ones nice enough to give you that info). If that doesn't give you enough info, go to "made" and look at each person's design that they have made and see if they give you the settings they used. Sometimes the comment section will give you settings info. I gather all that and then make my settings decision based on all that.
Being 100% new to this, I have to say that so far I am extremely impressed. I don't know the difference in our $300 printer vs. a $1200 one. I'm sure there have to be differences, but frankly I can't imagine what they are (besides the size of your design). The detail is amazing (on the right Cura settings). And for items that detail doesn't matter, you can change the settings and reduce printing time.
Just 1 week into this and it is so easy to use (NOW) that we are all fighting over who gets to print the next design! 12 year old can operate this by himself after I researched and taught him.
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on February 18, 2017
Great printer for a tinkerer. Not for everyone.

I love this printer however, owning one is a project by itself. You'll need to upgrade, repair, tweak, etc. Do not buy this item if you want a low maintenance 3d Printer. Do buy this if you enjoy working with electronics (and can safely work with electronics).

Here is a brief list of the repairs and tweaks that I needed since buying this:
1. Fix to Power and Hot Bed connectors - the stock socket connectors tend to burn up and cause hot bed failures.
2. Upgraded the power supply to 30A. The stock 20A one seems a little on the edge of what is needed.
3. Printed Z braces and vibration suppressors for the feet
4. Bought an upgrade kit from Amazon to swap out the Melzi mainboard to Ramps with touch screen display.
5. Created an enclosure and adapter for the RAMPS Mainboard and Touch display.
6. Added a glass plate to the bed.

These were fun upgrades/projects for me. I've also gotten some really great prints out of this little workhorse.
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on December 19, 2016
(update 3-23-18) After a year and a half the primary power connector on the mainboard got hot which caused a bad smell, the display went out and the printer stopped working... This has been a known weak point on this and many other 3d printers which use a 12v power supply. There simply is too much current running through the small connectors to the mainboard when they are supplying power to a heated bed. The cure in my case was to throw away the bad connector and solder the supply wires directly to the prongs that the connector had been attatched to. I then added a "Heat Bed Power Module Expansion board" to the circuit that supplies power to the bed to avoid any future problems. It sounds complicated and expensive but it is not. There are numerous videos and tutorials with step by step directions. Just search for "maker select v2 mosfet". I purchased the "BIQU Heat Bed Power Module" for about $8 on Amazon. There is no soldering required if you make the mod before the connector fails which would have saved some time. There are many people who claim that this problem is "dangerous" but all of the components are contained in a metal enclosure so it is mostly a threat only to your mainboard.

Despite the problem mentioned in the edit above... I still believe that the Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2.1 is one of the very best values for an entry level 3D Printer. You can read and research for months, but you are not really going to learn much until you take the plunge and start working with a 3D Printer. This is a fantastic printer that gets better with every mod that is made to it.

As others have noted this is a "rebadged" Wanhao Duplicator I3. The same printer is rebadged by several other companies as well, so it is known by several names. Largely as a result of input received from the community of users that has come together on internet forums this printer has evolved since it was first released. Many of the improvements that people started making early on are now already incorporated into the printers now being sold. Over the past year counting all of the output under the various names it has quietly become one of the most popular entry level 3D Printers in the world. This is because it simply is a great value when you compare its features and potential with other offerings.

There are many very good reviews both here on Amazon and in many other places on the internet. Many of the issues mentioned in reviews even just from a few months ago have been corrected. I would like to comment just on my experiences with it so far and my thoughts as someone who has much experience with computers starting from the early 1980s and also with the manufacturing process who worked as millwright for about a decade many years ago.

This printer comes very well packaged, but you need to be very careful when removing it from the packing because there are cable assemblies and small parts which can be easily damaged. This is a deceptively complex device despite its uncomplicated looking appearance. It basically comes with all the pieces that are provided in kits that can take many hours, days or even weeks to complete... only already assembled.

Many of the highly critical reviews actually reflect as much about the person writing the review as they do about the printer itself. Specifically, reviews from people who claim to have sent multiple printers back are generally from people who should not have purchased this type of printer to start with. Despite my great enthusiasm for this printer. There are many people who will never be happy with this printer and should not buy one. This printer has incredible potential and gives the user many options. The many options mean that it is easy to inadvertently screw things up. It will print the examples that come with it right out of the box, but to master it will take some time and patience.

Our Monoprice 13860 came with a broken limit switch behind the moving platform. The printer uses mostly off the shelf parts that are easy to find replacements for. I went to Radio Shack for a couple of dollars and bought a replacement that was similar to get the printer working. I then emailed Monoprice and they sent me the correct replacement part which arrived a few days later. I am still using the Radio Shack part however. The Monoprice support people were helpful, but the real help is on the online forums which have a huge following mostly under the Wanhao name.

Currently we have had the printer for a little less than a month. I downloaded and printed many upgrades for it from Thingiverse. I printed out a lot of fun stuff that other people designed. I also have designed and printed several original designs that I put together myself using software that is free to home users. My two favorites are 123D Design from Autodesk and their more advanced program Fusion 360. Both are extremely good programs and the full versions are both provided totally free to home users. And there are great tutorials available for both programs. I would suggest that you do start with 123D Design.

A couple notable projects... I designed and printed out a gear box with a 36 to 1 increase to hand crank a 12v 6w bicycle for powering lights and charging batteries and cell phones. It is much more powerful than the little ones you can buy. I printed out a flange that attaches an aluminum adapter to run our home generator on natural gas. I have also printed out hard to find replacement gears for a couple different tools. These gears and parts are best printed with special filaments that are designed for the type of service the parts are intended for.

Many of the printers that were designed for the plug and play crowd will not handle any filament other than the type that the manufacturers sell for them. To get good results someone else has figured out all the optimum settings for the preselected filament which by strange coincidence costs multiple times what bulk filament from other sources cost. Interestingly enough filaments that are sold on Amazon and are made from the same basic material PLA, ABS, Nylon, etc. etc. often behave differently. For instance in PLA black seems to stick to the printing bed better than white.

Nylon needs a different type of bed adhesive than PLA and you need to turn off the fan that cools the filament as it is being printed. ABS must have the printing bed heated to a high temperature and it works best if you cover the printer with a tub to keep the heat in. There are many variables that you can easily control with this printer that will make things work better or worse depending especially on the filament that you are using. In a little less than a month I have discovered through research on the forums etc. and experience a lot that is helping me get great results. I have learned a lot.

This printer has literally been running night and day since we got it. I have already put hundreds of hours on it and gone through full spools and miles of filament. The bearings under the print bed get the most abuse and are a little problematic and I have ordered replacement bushings. They haven't gone out yet, but if you do not keep them properly lubed they start feeling pretty stiff and I do not trust them. I have done a number of other mods that have helped me to get amazing results. There are many videos on YouTube especially that show the types of mods that people like to do.

At this point in time, I think that a 3D Printer is a valuable tool for a home shop. Learning 3D modeling with professional quality software that hobbyists can get free licensing for has been exciting. In just a little less than a month I am able to design and print out my own useful parts, creations and replacement parts in various materials. This is something that can augment a wood working shop, machine shop, home shop, or just a tinkerer with printer sitting in the kitchen. For me this has been a great new endeavor. I have had failed prints when trying new filament, and I have had some that have turned out incredible just downloading and printing from Thingiverse or some other source and printing them out. It is not for everyone and it will take a little patience but there can be a lot of reward as well. I have learned a lot and will update this review in another couple months.

(Update 01-19-2017) We have had the printer for approximately 2 months now. The first month we literally had it printing night and day. At this point we are still using it frequently, but have become much more proficient at designing our own parts using the software mentioned previously. It is very gratifying to come up with an idea, crate a 3D model and then print it out. We have a shop with a lot of tools and I am proficient in both metal and woodworking, but this adds a new dimension. While I took drafting in college decades ago, I seldom used this skill when making metal and wooden objects. Now this new software makes it easier to create not only drawings with precise specifications, but be able to create the parts with little effort afterwards, and they are repeatable.

There is much more to 3D Printing than one realizes initially. You can learn a lot by reading the forums for this and similar printers. We have no regrets that we started with this printer and it should meet our needs for quite a while down the road. Because a big job can take so long, having more than one 3D Printer is very common among enthusiasts. Personally, I am more inclined to use the new skills I have learned designing 3D objects by eventually adding a CNC router or milling machine to our shop.
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on May 17, 2017
Received the printer, the setup instructions were a little difficult for me to follow, so I watched a youtube video. Got the printer working and online first day. Everything works like a charm, print quality is amazing. Sad, I thought the sample filament would be a little more, oh well I ordered more. In the process of building stuff with it while the filament arrives.

My biggest thing, unlike others who have posted their fans banging on the inner cage of the power supply, power supply failing, or burning out within the first print - my printer's on/off switch broke overnight. Its not a HUGE issue, and I could probably open the PSU and easily replace the switch by desoldering the component and replacing it, just a little sketchy that the switch would break in the first day of use. Currently in the process of asking Monoprice if I should return the unit, or just get help if the issue escalates.
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on August 31, 2017
I did a lot of research before ordering the Maker Select, and I knew it had its quirks. It is unsafe to use for any material besides PLA right out of the box due to poor engineering of the heated bed power chain, specifically a connector is used that is woefully under-rated for the current involved, creating a fire hazard. It also needs a gantry brace, which you can print yourself, the cooling shroud is comically ineffective, but again, you can print your own replacement. The carriage plate is too thin, but a replacement is cheap and easy to install. I knew all of this going in, and I was OK with buying a project.

Instead of a project, I got some parts which I can use to *start* a project. Motors, a frame, a heated bed, and I get to build my own 3D printer with it. Let's go over some of the problems that were caused by straight up crap materials and engineering.

The MOSFET board kit to fix the heated bed power connector problem is cheap and easy to install. Usually. In my case, the solder joints on the under-rated connector were also insufficiently heated when soldering. On attempting to fix this, I discovered that the board was physically damaged, one of the pads had pulled off the underside of the PCB. I'm sure getting into the guts of the thing voided the warranty anyway, so I removed the connector entirely and soldered wires directly to the board to drive the MOSFET board. Ugly kludge, but problem solved.

**ALL** of the bearing rods are bent. Ru-nout on one of the rods for the bed is >0.3mm. That's 3 layers. Both of the bearing rods for the extruder were out by >0.2mm. Leveling the bed is literally impossible, even after adding a glass bed. I eventually managed to mostly fix this by rotating the bearing rods so that the bends were parallel to the build surface rather than perpendicular, but now it has runout on the horizontal axis close to 1 nozzle diameter near the edges of the bed. Replacing all 4 bearing rods costs $40.

Because of the run-out caused by the bearing rods and the flex of the original carriage plate, the springs included are too tall on 2 corners and the bed can't be lowered enough to clear the nozzle, and on the other 2 corners, they're helpfully much too short, meaning they can't maintain tension on the nuts, which then back off as you print and as the bed temperature cycles. One fell off mid print. Adding spacer washers to the short ones was the only fix I've come up with so far, but you could also print some spring cups for them. Fixing the tall ones requires moving the home limit switch so the entire bed can sit higher. The new carriage plate did not fix this problem.

The H-bridge for the extruder motor failed for no discernible reason after about 40 hours of total print time. The filament was moving freely and extruding properly, the gear was clean, and the cooling fan for the motor was working properly at the time of failure. The only option to fix this is either replacing the SMD FET on the main board, or gutting the thing and starting from scratch with a Ramps conversion. Given that the warranty is completely void at this point, I'm going to do that rather than rebuild the entire thing one component at a time. The Ramps kit is around $40, but given that the power supply in the Maker Select is not known for being particularly robust, the total conversion will cost around $80.

TL;DR If you want a printer with a large build area that will print PLA well, this isn't a bad option. If you want to work with any other materials, and you aren't comfortable with completely gutting it and rebuilding it, stay away. Expect to spend a minimum of $200 bringing it up to snuff, which makes it a $500 printer, not a $300 printer, and then it isn't nearly such a good deal. For another $200 you can have a real Prusa that will work the first time, and last for years, not hours.
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on October 2, 2017
DO NOT BUY, it did work for a month but it’s doomed to fail it’s not properly wired the handle the amount of voltage it’s taking in. the power supply connector the circuit/motherboard of the printer literally fried (see pictures) could have burnt down my house and posed a serious threat to my family and I not happy, would’ve liked to know that it was going to only work for a month then not be able to be returned because it is past the amazon return period and monoprice customer support wasn’t helpful because the printer was from a year ago as well and I had already thrown away the packaging (assuming after a week of successful printing that this was a good machine to keep) so I didn’t wanna pour more money into packaging and shipping to send back to monoprice for another machine that will spontaneously combust on me
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