Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer With Large Heated (200 x 200 x 175mm ) Build Plate, MK11 DirectDrive Extruder + Free Sample PLA Filament & 4GB MicroSD Card Preloaded With Printable 3D Models
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- Ultra High Precision: This 3D printer supports layer resolutions as fine as 20 microns (0.02 mm), allowing you to make high-quality prints with smooth surfaces and ultra-fine details
- Quality Assurance/Technical Assistance: Live chat at Monoprice.com Mon through Fri 6am – 6pm PST | Email at firstname.lastname@example.org | Phone at 877-271-2592 Mon through Fri 6am – 5pm PST.
- Professional Features: The all-metal extruder and heated print bed means that this printer can handle almost any filament type, from the common ABS and PLA plastics, to more exotic materials, such as PVA, HIPS, flexible TPE/TPU, and even metal and wood.
- Anti-Jam: The geared, anti-jam feeder is designed to reliably feed filament, so you won't have a long print job ruined by a failure to feed the extruder with filament.
- OPTIMIZE AIRFLOW, Greater Consistency : The open frame design improves airflow, ensuring that all parts of your model cool at the same rate, resulting in greater print consistency.Ambient Operating Temperature: +59 ~ +89°F (+15 ~ +32°C)
- Power Consumption : 221 watts.Electrical Outlet Plug Type:3D Printer
Specifications for this item
|Is Assembly Required||false|
|Item Weight||40.2 pounds|
|Number of Items||1|
|Warranty Description||1 year repair warranty for any manufacture defects|
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From the manufacturer
- Ultra high 20 micron layer resolution
- Can print from USB connection or SD card
- Up to 300 mm/sec print speed
- Extruder nozzle temperatures from 180 ~ 260 Degrees Celsius
- Build plate temperatures from 50~ 100 Degrees Celsius
- 200 x 200 x 175 mm build volume
- Compatible with Windows, Mac OS X, and Ubuntu Linux
Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer
The Ultimate 3D Printer is capable of professional quality 3D printing with a fine layer resolution as low as 20 microns (0.02 mm). The rigid all-metal frame design results in a stable print platform, which allows for print speeds up to 150 mm/sec. The printer has a heated build plate and can therefore print PLA, ABS, PVA, HIPS, and other popular filament types.
It can print gcode files from a computer using a USB connection or from an SD card. It is compatible with computers running Microsoft Windows, Macs running OS X, and Ubuntu Linux. The low operating noise of less than 49dBA allows it to be used in the home or in a business or office environment.
Ultra High Precision
This 3D printer supports layer resolutions as fine as 20 microns (0.02 mm), allowing you to make high-quality prints with smooth surfaces and ultra-fine details.
The all-metal extruder and heated print bed means that this printer can handle almost any filament type, from the common ABS and PLA plastics, to more exotic materials, such as PVA, HIPS, flexible TPE/TPU, and even metal and wood.
The geared, anti-jam feeder is designed to reliably feed filament, so you won't have a long print job ruined by a failure to feed the extruder with filament.
|MP Mini Delta||MP Select Mini||MP Select Mini PRO||Maker Plus 10 Mini||Maker Plus 10||Voxel Adventurer|
|Resolution||50-200 micron||100-300 micron||100-300 micron||50-300 microns||50-300 microns||100-400 micron|
|Printing Speed||up to 150 mm/s||up to 55 mm/s||up to 100 mm/s||up to 100 mm/s||up to 100 mm/s||up to 100mm/s|
|Max Extruder Temp||260℃||250℃||280℃||280℃||280℃||240℃|
|Heated Build Plate||✓||✓||✓||✓||✓||✓|
|Calibration||Manual leveling||Manual leveling||Assisted leveling||Assisted leveling||Assisted leveling||Assisted leveling|
|Connectivity||Color LCD Screen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi||Color LCD Screen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi||Color TouchScreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi||Touchscreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi||Touchscreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi||color touchscreen, USB Disk/ WIFI|
|Supported Slicing Software||Cura, Repetier-Host||Cura, Repetier-Host||Cura, Repetier-Host||Cura, Repetier-Host, KISSlicer||Cura, Repetier-Host, KISSlicer||MP Flashprint, Slic3r, Skeinforge, Cura|
The Ultimate 3D Printer is capable of professional quality 3D printing with a fine layer resolution as low as 20 microns (0.02 mm). The rigid all-metal frame design results in a stable print platform, which allows for print speeds up to 150 mm/sec. The printer has a heated build plate and can therefore print PLA, ABS, PVA, HIPS, and other popular filament types. It can print gcode files from a computer using a USB connection or from an SD card. It is compatible with computers running Microsoft Windows, Macs running OS X, and Ubuntu Linux. The low operating noise of less than 49dBA allows it to be used in the home or in a business or office environment. Input Power 120 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 4A
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One other thing, I added a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint for control, the remote control aspect is awesome. I also have been using Printoid Premium on Android to interact with Octoprint, I can't recommend Printoid (or Octoprint) enough.
ORIGINAL REVIEW TEXT
I didn't get this from Amazon, my wife purchased it for me directly from Monoprice but given the other bad reviews I thought I would post my observations.
FWIW I am extremely techy but this is my first 3D printer. I know a decent amount of 3D printing and my background is nuclear engineering and IT. I state that because this printer is beefy, like a power plant. I hate that one of the other reviewers ("RT") experienced a short, that's never good. The printer I received hasn't had any of those issues and I'm pretty sure I could drop it on the ground, re-calibrate it, and it would still run well.
I've had it up and running for about three weeks with probably ~30 hours of usage using the provided customized Monoprice Cura version, the newer Cura 2.3 beta, and OctoPrint. One big thing to note, I was able to start printing a reasonably intricate part ([...]) WITHIN 30 MINUTES and honestly the majority of that time was trying to locate something I could use to level the bed (FYI - a hotel room key is 1mm). That to me is surprising enough, I don't think I've ever had a tool/gadget that was as simple to set up. The out-of-box configuration is OK and I did some additional tweaking (increased the extruder and bed temps for one) over the first few days and I could not be happier with the prints I am getting.
When purchased directly from Monoprice, the printer comes with a spool of white PLA, extruder tube, needle-nose pliers, SD card and reader, USB cable, power cable, putty knife, an extra bed pad, and some hooks (no idea what they are for yet).
Yes this is a clone of the Wanhao Duplicator 6. I don't really care. Not sure why anyone else would, it will make parts easier to get (the ones that can't be printed). It's using somewhat standard Marlin firmware so that's a plus for me too.
I do think that the navigation knob is touchy but that could be my fault when I installed it. The bed and extruder temps seem to jump around a bit, in my case +/- 4 degrees. These two things plus the next comment lead me to only make it four stars.
I haven't dealt with Monoprice's support yet but I'm not convinced that they know what they are selling. This feeling is primarily based on the lack of any support information on their website. This to me isn't that big of a deal, I can troubleshoot most if not all issues but less technical people will probably have issues with the lack of information.
FINAL THOUGHTS -
I'll be blunt, this is the printer for me. I would not hesitate to purchase it again and I will recommend this printer to my friends. I've looked at building a RepRap from scratch for about 5 years, bought some of the parts, but ultimately I have a wonderful wife and awesome kids, which equal a life. I don't have the time to spend messing with projects like I used to, too many soccer matches, basketball games, and, well, work. If you want something easy then this may be the printer for you.
UPDATE April 11 2018. Finally ran into an issue with this printer. Started a 6 hour print job and four hours in the printer stopped. The error message read
Error Temp Sensor
That site has no support so I did some trouble shooting. The cable on top of the extruder carriage came completely loose and it only took a second to resolve the problem. So, I'm putting check cable connections on my monthly maintenance routine along with checking screws and leveling table.
UPDATE March 25th 2018: Still running and well over 600 hours of printing. I have noticed problems with using Monoprice's Premium gray filament. It pretty much sucks because it does not flow well. I'm going back to Hatchbox which produced the best prints I've had so far. I still haven't changed my printing pad or used tape or any other accessory to insure proper adhession to the bed. I haven't needed it as long as the model is designed properly. If I could give this printer 6 stars, I would gladly do it.
UPDATE December 14 2017: I've been running this printer for 151 hours and four minutes.
I'm happy to say, I have not once found a need to use painters tape or glass on my bed, in fact, the pad on my platform is pretty jacked up because the stop screw for the bed needed adjustment and it took me a few prints to figure that out. But, after fixing the problem, there are still no problems with the model or supports coming loose that are related to the bed or the printer.
Here is what I found to be a common problem for things coming loose.
- Poor contact area. Meaning that your model is sitting on too narrow or small of a point to firmly secure itself to the bed. The solution is too redesign your model or add more supports. This also happens to support structures. If try to save time on printing by using less support structures and take advantage of bridging, then the support structure will likely topple over if it is too high from the stress of the material changing dimensionally as it cools. The solution to that is add more supports in that area.
- Bed not level or calibrated. As the printer runs, parts are moving and wearing. Add to that the act of prying a part from the bed and these all factor into your bed needing to be leveled.
I've discovered 3 distinctly separate leveling parameters not covered in the owners manual. The first and most important is the stop screw for the Z axis. This restricts the bed travel going up. This can become a problem if you follow the bed leveling guide in the manual and you level your bed in between each build (not a good idea). Eventually you will find you're out of thread for the leveling screws (as I did). This is because the guided procedure doesn't tell you to recalibrate the whole bed at least once for every five times you level the bed. Nor does it tell you that each time you level the bed you have to adjust that stop screw to keep the extruder nozzle from grinding against the printing pad, which causes the pad to wear.
You won't eve realize this is happening till you notice that your extruder isn't laying down any material till the 2nd or 3rd layer. So, each time you level, you need to adjust that screw so you don't end up with an ugly pad like mine.
You also need to tighten up the leveling knobs after leveling the bed five times. Then, you can proceed safely with leveling the bed. What I do is tighten each knob on full turn at a time being careful not to crush the springs and making sure I am turning them as evenly as possible. Then I proceed leveling and after that I test a 2mm thick 25mm x 25mm square with a test skirt around it. keep an eye on the skirt as it moves to make sure it is laying down an even bead of material. If it looks too bumpy, your platform is too far away and you will need to adjust the Z axis stop screw by tightening it about 1/8 turn. If the bed looks very thin or is not extruding at all, you will need to adjust the z axis stop screw by loosening it about 1/8 of turn. Either way, you have to work with that adjustment till you get an even flow that is smooth and not bumpy.
I'm Giving this a five despite a few minor issues because this machine is well worth the price. First, while I have been building 3D models since 1986 I have only been sending them out to print since 2009. That is when I became aware that 3D printing had finally become affordable.
Besides my interest in 3D I am a retired IT person with a background in Software development and Systems architecture and management. So, I'm no stranger to tech.
I had considered building my own, but I have to many other projects to undertake such a task. One of the main selling points of this machine is that it was open source turned commercial and it is so well built.
Heck, even the package was top notch. It arrived (unlike some more expensive devices I've purchased) in a very sturdy cardboard boxed. The box was bound by two plastic packing straps that were taped all the way around to the box. Inside the foam was that nice stuff, not that cheap styrofoam that falls apart and clings to everything.
I've also discovered that it is perfectly fine to adjust the bed on the fly. That is if you are printing a skirt around your model. I take that opportunity to make minor adjustments to the bed instead of going through the step by step leveling guide. You have to be careful of the extruder and the heated bed but with a little caution you can level your bed perfectly by making sure your skirt is printing evenly.
Not all my prints have been perfect, but I've found that in all cases this was directly linked to my design or improper supports or poor maintenance. I see that Amazon has pulled this printer. That is too bad, I think it is a really good printer and I am enjoying it, even the small mishaps. I do wish that a lot of this stuff was covered in the manual, but at least there are plenty of forums out there to help novices like me.
--- original review --
The machine is as hefty as the packaging. 1/8" thick aluminum frame is welded and powder coated. There is no shroud or door provide for this machine, but the holes for the are already drilled and tapped so it should be too hard to make a set yourself. I don't really want them because it is easier to adjust and clean without them.
My printer came with one of the two print pads already installed and big butter fly printed on it. That and a couple of other things make me a little suspicious that I might have gotten an open box model, but hopefully that is not the case since it was not advertised as open box.
This 3D printer was easier to set up than My cannon ink jet printer. It is also quieter, which is a good thing since a small print takes a couple of hours. I ran it in my office and watched T.V. while I waited for the print to finish. It is rated at 49db the same as the vent fans in my bathroom, but the 3D printer is even quieter than those vents!
My head was two feet away from the printer so I had to turn the set up a little.
It also came with a full 1 KG of PLA filament which was translucent. Most of the other machines with similar resolution and price only provide .3 -.4 KG of filament. That is a 17 dollar value judging by the prices of Monoprice filament on their site. I ordered a spool Hatchbox gray because this translucent stuff is to hard for my old eyes to see. It reflects so much light the detail is invisible. The second photo included shows 4 coach threshold plates I printed. I had to paint them gray before I could see the detail, so gray filament for me from now on. I'll use the translucent stuff to clear out my nozzles between printing ABS and PLA.
Even though the first print (the threshold on the top) printed all but the letter the rest of the plate turned out fine. The failure was mine though, and not the printer and I suspected it might not print. So I loaded up my model into Meshmixer and worked on the lettering so that it would meet the minimum engraving dimensions (which were unknown to me because they aren't in the manual). I ran the plate one more time in the flat with marginal success (accent on suck). Not so much my fault as the orientation of the piece and my actual inexperience with 3D printers and the software. I'm sure there much be some parameter somewhere that allows me to refine the resolution in the xy axis, I just haven't found it yet. My solution was a work around. Noticing that the sides were perfectly smooth even at .04mm layer thickness, I turned the plate on the front edge and ran the third plate with better results (second from the bottom). Again my fault more than the printers, I modified the lettering again and the fourth attempt (also printed on it's front edge) was even better. You can almost read the lettering without a magnifying glass. Also missing is the fine strands of filament that got dragged over the detail when I printed the piece lying flat.
I primarily bought this printer for model parts. The third photo is of a little Baldwin engine I built completely using 3D prints I created in Hexagon 2.0. The lettering was created in GIMP and printed on to some white decal paper. Even the figure is a 3D print I sculpted. But that whole thing in 1:20.32 scale was very expensive and time consuming to print. Most of the time was in waiting for an average of two weeks for a print to arrive from the printers. I don't have to worry about that turn around time any more, or the added expense I absorb when a print fails and I have to reordered and pay for shipping as well. All and all this a great deal for me at $700. I spent more than that printing out little engine below, if I count my failures.
Now for the annoying little issues that do not affect my overall rating.
1- The manual is very poorly written and not up to date.
2- The nut that holds the spool holder on did not have a little wrench in the corner as suggested by the manual. That meant I had to experiment with the nut to locate the proper orientation to insure the spool half tube was facing up.
3- My turn knob does not fit properly because the print board is too high in the case and the dial the knob fits on is off center causing the knob to hang up after you push it in. I will resolve that easily by chucking the knob up in my lath and shaving a rabbet around the inside edge so it clears the housing.
4- Photo 4 shows some extra parts not shown in the manuals list of included items. I am assuming this some sort of tube to run the filament through so it doesn't catch. I am also suspicious that my printer was already owned once and that concerns me.
5- Despite what the manual says, you can't download their copy of Cura from the Monoprice site any more, least wise not that I could figure out and I tried all the ways I know how. Luckily it is in the SD card.
6- It's not usual but most of the items included were not as portrayed by images in the manual or on Amazon. The card reader was small, black and not in a package. The tweezers were in a plastic bag, not a box. There is a strange metal rod that is hooked at the end with no explanation where it goes. (As shown in photo 4).
Some very pleasant surprises. After reading some of the negative comments I had a few concerns and things I was determined to check. First was loose fittings. There were none. Second was un-lubricated surfaces, they were all well lubricated and prints that would not stick to the pad.
I've printed 4 times so far with no prints coming up from my pad, one single corner or bit (cross my fingers). I even printed my third print without cleaning the pad with alcohol before beginning. No problem. I can only assume that maybe, just maybe those folks tried to print without the raft. I was skeptical at first to print with a raft. But after taking the butterfly print off I realized how easy the raft was to remove I just went ahead and included it. We'll see.
Now, I have only had this machine for a day. Approximately 10 hours of print time. So, my opinion may change, especially if I find out they sold me an open package without telling me. That will definitely lower the rating, unless they want to make it worth my while.
I'm updating this review to add a few images of some of my prints. I've been printing for about 45 hours now. I've had some surprising successes and some disasters. I'd like to take credit for the successes, but can only claim credit for the disasters. It takes a while to learn all the various parameters necessary to produce a high quality print in a reasonable amount of time. I grew weary of CURA and since I got such a good deal on my printer I bought a copy of Simplify3D. The CURA software was good for freeware, but Simplify3D is hands down better. You get so much more control over the printer, that you don't have in CURA. If you are going to order Simplify though I have one little tip; copy the end script from Cura and replace the end script in Simplify3d. S3D end script does not home the head or the table, which means you have to use the included jog tools to home them yourself instead of having it done at the end of the script. Also be aware that by default, Simplify3D things you are printing ABS. Make sure you change the material setting immediately if you are using PLA. Anyway here are few of my prints as an example. The seated figure was done in CURA and I did not expect it to print. It was 1:24 scale and the mesh still needed a lot of work, but it printed just fine,,, well at least better than I expected at .04 mm.
The printer itself is decent after $200 in upgrades but honestly my $150 chinese knock off printer is a lot better value.
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Cons: There are many things on this printer that can go wrong. The bed has a tendency to become loose and can spring up and destroy the nozzle during the start of a print. The Bed leveling procedure also clears the current Z height settings as soon as it is started. If you simply initiated the bed leveling procedure by mistake and cancel it, the printer will likely jam the nozzle into the print bed.
Edit: January 2018
With some tweaks, such as loctite/ nyloc nuts the mechanical reliability of the printer can be improved. The stock cooling system needs improvements and benefits from a new cooling duct and even a more powerful fan. The Z limit switch is intended to make contact with a loose screw that sticks up from the build plate, however this screw has a tendency to loosen itself which causes inconsistent Z heights. This can be fixed by using two nyloc nuts or a drop of purple loctite. With some careful tuning of the settings the printer can achieve excellent prints.
Las mejoras y correcciones no son opcionales como el enfriamiento por que no sirve para nada el de fabrica, el firmware esa amigable pero limitado para mi gusto, cosa que se arregla también fácil.
Por que la mala calificación?
-La cama era un desastre aparentemente pegaron pésimamente mal la superficie hasta con pasar la mano se sentían las deformidades.
-La boquilla bloqueada, nueva? bloqueada? de verdad era nueva?
-Prácticamente los tornillos estaban flojos por todos lados.
Hasta aquí queda dentro del rango de lo "aceptable" para mi por que suele ser así con las impresoras 3d pero...
-Tornilleria barrida en los baleros lineales mas otros ruidos que no pude localizar que resultaba en errores de impresión que no son aceptables ni para un kit económico.
Al no poderse asegurar sobe todo el eje X había demasiadas variaciones y lo que se supone esta maquina debería de poder hacer por la forma en la que esta construida "precisión" era imposible sin meterse en problemas mayores. Ni siquiera intente hablar con monoprice no vale la pena tienen fama de ser malos en servicio y sueles tener mejor respuesta de danhao aunque no este marcada por ellos.
Y aquí es cuando la regrese. Es cara para la área de impresión pero lo que puede llegar a hacer es lo que me llamo la atención. Desde mi punto de vista me mandaron una maquina usada y o que ya había sido devuelta antes. Es clase de bloqueos en una boquilla no son de un solo uso (las prueban antes de mandarlas según esto).
After replacing the fans with sleeveless ball-bearing fans, it became a lot quieter. The difficulty of adding mods or making repairs (changing fans, adding inductive sensor, etc.) was increased slightly due to the connectors being sealed with a glue gun -- not hard to remove; just annoying
problems ive encountered:
1) out of the box the connector for the Z screw motor had fallen out of the main logic board, missed the hot glue placement, and one of the limit switches was wildly miss aligned; miracle it even made a test print. After manually pressing the limit switch to home it then printing 1/8 inch bushings with new hardware to realign the limit switch.
2) it likes to throw "Heater - Error" when I am too rough with it, aka printing high temperature materials then cancelling prints over and over because I am still figuring out how to combat warp for abs.
Edit: "Heater - Error" work around and potential solution. The cause appears to be from the heater having to work too much to maintain temperature. If their is too much ambient air flow occurring the printer will error out. In my experience printing in PETG has been the best case scenario for this printer (after replacing the teflon throat with a metal one), the Mk11 does not have a problem hitting high temperatures, it has a problem maintaining them, so the low fan speed associated with PETG helps out a lot in reliability and allows the printer to produce some nice parts. For those that want higher fan speeds, I would suggest making the thickest heater block sock out of head gasket maker, research your own guide for that as their are a lot of guides on that.
3) its a noisy printer, but its really cheap and easy to install designs are available on thingiverse already that provide mounts for larger quieter fans. Stepper dampers are a must, the motors make a lot of noise against the chassis. once the power supply is replaced with a quieter one, this machine is whisper quiet.
Solid machine but feature wise is pretty outdated for the price your paying for this machine, I would buy another one for around $500. Other $800 printers will have features like dual nozzles, auto bed leveling, or wifi, this printer doesn't have any of that.
Pros: Decent print quality, Direct extruder, Decent design
Cons: Expensive, Outdated UI, Small print bed, Non removeable bed, did I mention outdated menu and navigation scroll wheel.
8 Days later it was just dead.
But when it worked the printouts looked great. Hopefully the return process is easy but so far its been slow.
Ended up returning it for a full refund. It would be around 14+ days to get it repaired. That longer then i had it in my hands.