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Always be very very very careful with powered buffers! I used the SZFIXEZ Electric Spin Scrubber that I reviewed here but you will need the REPLACEMENT BRUSH SET TO GET THE EDGELESS BUFFING PAD! See my review for more info and ask Amazon about getting some of those buffing pads to buy individually. The rotation speed seems great for this application--very little chance of hurting a surface especially a modern automotive clear coated finish. (It's not practical for whole cars though--at least I don't think it would be it's just not made for that much and the battery...)
What matters is that you have PURE stuff here. That's likely why you couldn't find it in any of the auto stores--they just sell the diluted stuff.
The "Ease of" five stars come from experience. This product is indeed easy to remove and use but you have to prepare properly first. And preparing means cleaning. Lots and lots of cleaning. That's why this is STEP 3 in a process. I'm not sure of their particular process steps but they're ALL ABOUT CLEANING and prepping the surface for this PURE NATURAL HARD WAX.
Unlike cars--well certainly most of them--the piano has a satin finish. That's not easy for lacquer and you'll notice it's certainly still there underneath that luster. It was literally sanded by drum devices as part of the finishing process. The lines are still there in the right light but they mainly just break up the gloss. That's why you'll see me finish the wax application with straight instead of swirling strokes. In later coat(s) I do swirl--everywhere to the right music--waltz ;) but this one is getting in the grooves and a perhaps touch heavier than the later ones as well
Be certain your surface is UTTERLY CLEAN before applying! The finish in this case was effectively "like new" as it had been completely stripped of old wax, fully cleaned, camouflaged and very lightly polished using the lightest diminishing abrasives. The application pad I'm using is stained--not dirty. Your application pad should never get dirty. Ever. Keep it in the can where it belongs. But if it gets dirty they don't last through too many cleanings.
This wax is applied VERY LIGHTLY. It dries quite rapidly but you have a generous window of time to remove. Properly applied--and this is not difficult if you keep the application pad similar to what you see--you won't have "white line" problems--that only happens if you're using WAY, WAY too much wax or if you're using something full of cheap synthetic waxes, abrasives, solvents and, perhaps, a bit of carnauba. In the video you'll notice that at the end of the application step that I wipe in lines instead of the normal swirls. This is because I wanted this coat to get into those old sanded grooves. The next coat(s) are swirled on. Waltzing along...
The pad in the video is slightly blackened due to the reversible nature of my camouflage and earlier use. It's permanent unless I wash out all the wax with pure turpentine as that's the only thing that will touch that "stain" and it stains anything--seemingly permanently--to come right off with turps. Some weird stuff they used to use back then when other things were pure as well--amazing how well it keeps all those years--very same stuff an errant servant (or guilty master with a touch of conscience) would use. It even came from the "Amazon" of the day--in a way--Monkey Ward as I used to call it as a little boy.
Note how I apply bits of wax to the pad and then rub it in with my hands--essentially melting it into the pad. The working pad is ever so slightly "dampened" with wax and ordinarily you use very light pressure to apply as you are spreading such a thin coat. It takes quite a lot of time to get a pad ready for working so that also explains why that bit of black staining didn't bother me. When the pad is used on a car it should be spotless. And stay that way. If you get a hint of dirt on that pad, STOP. Go back step(s). You have not prepared properly! Keep cleaning! AFTER IT GETS DIRTY THE APPLICATION PAD MUST BE FULLY CLEANED OR DISCARDED.
