|Item Weight||2.35 pounds|
|Package Dimensions||9 x 7.1 x 2.1 inches|
|Item model number||20656A|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Included Components||Blow Mold Case, Brake Line Tubing Tool|
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Neiko 20656A Auto Double Flaring Copper with Aluminum Steel Brake Line and Brass Tubing Tool Kit | Includes Blow-Molded Case
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- Designed to use when flaring double or single flare in a variety of material: copper, aluminum, brass, magnesium, and soft steel brake line tubing
- Heavy duty design is forged from heat treated steel to ensure durability and strength
- Alloy steel and chrome plated material is used to construct the swivel to assist in reducing friction
- Set includes wide range of sizes: 5 adaptors- 4. 8mm through 12. 7mm (3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2")
- Blow molded hard plastic storage case provides a convenient handle for easy travel and portability
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7 Pc Neiko Auto Flaring Double Tool Kit *5 Adaptors- 4. 8mm Through 12. 7mm (3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2") *For Double/ Single Flare(s) in Cooper, Alum, Soft Steel Brake Line, and Brass Tubing (to 45 Degree)
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Tools from the factory should not require you to re-tool them before they are functional. It would probably work if you turned things hard enough but some parts would be self-destructing every use, that is a tragedy.
Watch my video and I show exactly how to modify the tool and make it work perfectly.
I thought i could caption the photos but can't find how, so i'll describe the photos.
1. chubby bubble; too tall using the factory designed depth gauge.
2. cross section of the chubby bubble.
3. not smooth pressing surface of the thumb nut
4. filed down smoother pressure surface of the thumb nut.
5. cross section of MY proper flare vs. factory flare.
6. my nicopp flare vs. my flare on oem steel line
7. my nicopp flare vs factory flare on OEM steel line (compressed from being installed)
8. cross section of the chubby bubble with arrows showing:
red arrows = internal pressure from fluid
blue arrows = seal seat pressure against outside of flare bubble
green arrows = force from flare nut
(Take note how the internal pressure from the fluid actually presses harder on the sealing surface, this is what makes the 'bubble flare' an ideal flare for high pressure like brake lines. All the other flares the internal pressure pushes the seal apart not together.)
10. picture of my modified blow mold box; the unused hole I cut out big enough to fit my mini tubing cutter!
11. picture of the first 'live' flare that will be installed into my car.
I am always super particular about making sure the lines are cut with a tube cutter and filed flat. To file them flat I put the tube in the clamp block just peaking above the surface and use a file to flatten the end flush with the clamp block. Then I ever so slightly chamfer and sand the ends. It takes a long time but I want it done perfect. Also I use brake fluid to lubricate the contact surfaces on the tool. After I did two practice flares, every single flare came out perfect, and most of the flares were done on the car, which is by no means easy, but doable.
Can you find a better tool than this one? I'd sure hope so. But does it do the job at a fair price, for the infrequent user? Yes. I have no regrets in purchasing it. If you're not making a lot of flares, I'm guessing you won't regret it either.