Nikon 7294 Monarch ATB 8x42 Binocular
|Price:||$267.26 & FREE Shipping|
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- Dielectric High-Reflective Multilayer Prism Coating
- Fully Multicoated lenses & Phase-Correction Coated Prisms
- Multi-Setting Click Stop Eyecups
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|Exit Pupil Diameter||5.3 mm|
|Item Weight||1.5 pounds|
|Objective Lens Diameter||42|
|Package Height||3.5 x 6.3 x 8 inches|
|Shipping Weight||2.2 pounds|
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This item Nikon 7294 Monarch ATB 8x42 Binocular
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|Sold By||Adorama Camera||Online King||The Professional Depot||Online King||BuckSniper||Adorama Camera|
|Item Dimensions||—||5.1 x 5.7 x 2.4 in||5.1 x 5.7 x 3 in||5.1 x 5.7 x 1.65 in||5.1 x 5.7 x 1.65 in||5.1 x 5.7 x 0.1 in|
|Item Weight||1.5 lbs||1.34 lbs||1.3 lbs||1.3 lbs||1.32 lbs||1.5 lbs|
|Objective Lens Diameter||42||42 millimeters||42||42||42||42|
The Monarch ATB 42mm with Dielectric High-Reflective Multilayer Prism Coating binocular features brighter, sharper colors, crisp and drastically improved low-light performance. A new body style provides unparalleled strength and ruggedness in a package that is comfortable to carry all day. With rugged rubber armor for added durability and a firm grip even in the worst conditions, Nikon guarantees every ATB to be 100% waterproof and fogproof, each is backed by Nikon's 25 Year Limited Warranty and No-Fault Repair/Replacement Policy. Technical Specs Focusing System – Center Focus Magnification – 8x Objective Diameter – 42mm Angular FOV – Real – 6.3° Angular FOV – Apparent – 47.5° FOV @ 1000 yds – 330 ft Close Focus Distance – 8.2 ft Exit Pupil – 5.3mm Relative Brightness – 28.1 Eye Relief – 19.6 Size (L&W) – 5.7 x 5.1 Weight – 21.5 Waterproof/Fogproof – Yes Prism coating – Dielectric Warranty Information Nikon is dedicated to quality, performance and total customer satisfaction. If your Nikon binocular, Spotting Scope or Fieldscope requires service or repair not covered by our 25 Year Limited Warranty, Nikon will repair or replace it (even it was your fault) for just $10, plus return shipping and handling. Excludes – StabilEyes, Laser Rangefinders and Spotting Scope/Fieldscope eyepieces.
From the Manufacturer
The Monarch ATB 42mm with Dielectric High-Reflective Multilayer Prism Coating binocular features brighter, sharper colors, crisp and drastically improved low-light performance. A new body style provides unparalleled strength and ruggedness in a package that is comfortable to carry all day. With rugged rubber armor for added durability and a firm grip even in the worst conditions, Nikon guarantees every ATB to be 100% waterproof and fogproof, each is backed by Nikon's 25 Year Limited Warranty and No-Fault Repair/Replacement Policy. The new Monarch ATB 42mm with Dielectric High-Reflective Multilayer Prism Coating binocular is available in 8x42, 10x42 and 12x42. It is also available in Team REALTREE models with the REALTREE APG HD camouflage pattern.
- Focusing System – Center Focus
- Magnification – 8x
- Objective Diameter – 42mm
- Angular FOV – Real – 6.3°
- Angular FOV – Apparent – 47.5°
- FOV @ 1000 yds – 330 ft
- Close Focus Distance – 8.2 ft
- Exit Pupil – 5.3mm
- Relative Brightness – 28.1
- Eye Relief – 19.6
- Size (L&W) – 5.7 x 5.1
- Weight – 21.5
- Waterproof/Fogproof – Yes
- Prism coating – Dielectric
|Model ||Focusing |
|Magnification ||Objective |
|FOV @ |
|Weight ||Waterproof ||Prism |
|7294 & 7297 ||CF||8 ||42 ||6.3 ||330 ||8.2 ||5.3 ||28.1 ||19.6 ||5.7x5.1 ||21.5 ||Y ||Dielectric |
|7295 & 7298 ||10 ||5.5 ||288 ||4.2 ||17.6 ||18.4 |
|7296 & 7299 ||12 ||5 ||262 ||3.5 ||12.3 ||15.4 |
Dielectric High-Reflective Coating – This technique provides almost the same brightness as that perceived by the naked eye
|Multi-Setting Click Stop Eyecups – provides fast, effective eye relief |
|Fully Multicoated Lenses |
|Rugged Rubber Armor for Added Durability |
Nikon is dedicated to quality, performance and total customer satisfaction. If your Nikon binocular, Spotting Scope or Fieldscope requires service or repair not covered by our 25 Year Limited Warranty, Nikon will repair or replace it (even it was your fault) for just $10, plus return shipping and handling.
Excludes – StabilEyes, Laser Rangefinders and Spotting Scope/Fieldscope eyepieces.
Real field of view
Real field of view is the angle of the visible field, seen without moving the binoculars, measured from the central point of the objective lens. The larger the value is, the wider the viewfield available. For example, binoculars with a wider field of view are advantageous for locating fast-moving wild birds within the viewfield. This also applies for finding small nebulas or a cluster of stars in astronomical observations.
Apparent field of view
Apparent field of view is the angle of the magnified field when you look through binoculars.
The larger the apparent field of view is, the wider the field of view you can see even at high magnifications.
With the conventional method used previously, the apparent field of view was calculated by multiplying the real field of view by the binocular magnification. (With this formula, apparent field of view wider than 65˚ is called wide field of view.)
After revision, Nikon's figures are now based on the ISO 14132-1:2002 standard, and obtained by the following formula:
tan ω' = τ x tan ω
Apparent field of view: 2ω'
Real field of view: 2ω
(With this formula, apparent field of view wider than 60° is called wide field of view.)
For example, the apparent field of view of 8x binoculars with an 7.0°real field of view is as follows:
2ω' = 2 x tan-1 (r x tan ω)
Relative brightness value is obtained by squaring the diameter of the exit pupil. The greater the relative brightness is, the brighter the image will be. With 8x42 binoculars, the brightness is (42÷8)2= 28.1. This means that if the magnification is the same, the larger the effective diameter of the objective lens, the brighter the image will be.
Do binoculars with the same exit pupil offer the same brightness?
Multilayer coating is also applied to prisms to raise transmittance. A roof prism system has one surface that does not feature total internal reflection, so vapor deposition with metals, etc. must be used to raise the reflectivity of this surface. Also, phase-correction coating on roof surface ensures high-contrast images.
*Binoculars' brightness and contrast are affected by not only prism coatings, but also the number of objective lens and eyepiece lens, and types of coatings.
|Metal-vaporized, high-reflectivity prism coating |
Using vacuum-vaporization technology, metallic material such as aluminum or silver is applied to the reverse side of a prism surface that is not totally reflective. This raises the reflectivity of the prism mirror surface.
Dielectric high-reflective multilayer prism coating
This coating features reflectance that exceeds 99%. By utilizing light interference, this coating assures high reflectivity across the full visible range, and ensures high color reproducibility.
|Reflectance characteristics of prism coatings on mirror surface |
The horizontal axis indicates the wavelength of light. The vertical axis indicates the reflectance of light.
Binoculars' brightness is determined not only by the reflective mirror, but also by the total optical system such as the number of lenses and quality of coatings.
A roof (Dach) surface can cause phase shift of light that affects image resolution. This phenomenon is caused by phase differences arising from total light reflection on a roof (Dach) surface and it can occur with even a perfectly processed prism. Phase-correction coating is applied to the surface to minimize loss of resolution, ensuring high-contrast images.
The factor that has the greatest impact on resolution or image detail, will be dependent upon the amount of light available during the time of observation. During daylight hours, when your eye pupil size will be only about 2 to 3mm, magnification will be the principal factor in image resolution. At night, with the eye pupil dilated to 6 to 8mm, aperture size is the controlling factor. In twilight conditions both of these factors control resolution effectiveness and the twilight factor is the term that compares binocular performance under these conditions.
The twilight factor is calculated by taking the square root of the product of the magnification and the aperture. The higher the twilight factor, the better the resolution of the binocular when observing under dim light conditions. For example, a 10 X 40 (twilight factor 20) would effectively resolve better under these conditions than a 7 X 35 (twilight factor 15.4) even though the 10 X 40 has a smaller exit pupil. Remember, however, that the twilight factor does not take into account the transmittance or quality of the optical system.
Top customer reviews
Since this is one of the most common binoculars bought by beginners (for good reason), I thought it would be helpful to have a breakdown of the uses of the different magnifications as many buyers have probably not used binoculars extensively. I am mostly into birding and wildlife watching, so beware of that bias if your needs are different.
Don't know what size binoculars to get? Probably just get the biggest ones you can afford, I mean, more magnification is better because you see more, right? Not really. There are a number of trade-offs associated with high magnification. This will help you decide what size is best for you (hint, if you are reading this, 8x42 is almost certainly the best choice for you).
Binoculars have two numbers such as 8x42 or 10x50. The first number refers to magnification, typically 8 or 10, but others also exist (6, 7, 12...). The second number refers to the size of the objective lens (that is the big piece of glass farther from your eye) which in turn determines light gathering potential. These nikon monarchs are offered in 8x42, 10x42, and 12x42 sizes. I don't know that I've ever seen 12x binoculars, but 8x and 10x binoculars with the same objective lens (42mm in this case) will be nearly identical in size (and, counterintuitively, the 10x will often be very slightly smaller). The higher the magnification, the more light you need, so a 10x binocular will need a larger objective lens than an 8x binocular to have similar brightness.
First major consideration: trade-off of magnification vs. brightness. Higher magnification means things appear closer, but higher magnification also means less brightness. Brightness is very important to see markings and to have a pleasant image to look at (try watching a movie with the monitor brightness turned way down, not as much fun, is it?) Obviously you can counter this trade-off with larger objective lenses, but that gets expensive and heavy.
Second major consideration is shake. 10x binoculars are hard to hold steady (and I am young and not particularly shaky). If you are leaning against a tree with a low heart rate, no problem, if you just ran up a hill to see something, much harder. As you up the magnification you also increase the problem of shakiness. If you can't hold the binoculars steady, your eyes can't focus on what is in them. This one is really, really, really important. If you haven't used binoculars much before, you probably don't realize how much of a problem hand shake can be. 8x is pretty easy to hold steady. 10x isn't so bad. 12x is more or less out of the question without a very steady support.
Third major consideration: Field of view/ease of finding things in your binoculars. Try this: take your digital camera, put it to full zoom and try to aim at a distant object that takes up much of the screen. Kind of hard, isn't it? Now zoom out all the way and try to find that same object. Much easier. Binoculars are very similar, the larger the magnification, the more zoom you are working with, the the more difficulty you will have getting an object in sight. This is particularly true with moving objects. Lower magnifications make it easier to scan because the give you more peripheral vision.
Fourth (somewhat less major) consideration: depth of field. This is the range of distance from you that is in focus without moving the focus wheel. Larger depths of field are better. Smaller magnifications tend to have wider depth of field. Wider depth of field is more pleasant to look at and makes finding things easier. Mostly a wide depth of field just looks a lot nicer.
So, what size to get? Of the available sizes: 8x42, 10x42, and 12x42. 8x42 is definitely the most versatile. 8x magnification is quite a lot, but shake isn't too bad, depth of field is pretty good, field of view ("peripheral vision") is pretty good. These are ideal for watching moving birds as they are easy to track with. I prefer 8x binoculars and most of what it comes down to for me is that the image that comes through them is much more pleasant to look at: brighter, crisper, more depth of field. Learning to aim your binoculars at something takes practice, and 8x will definitely be easier to learn with. 8x really shines in lower light conditions, in tracking fast moving birds, and whenever your hands might be shaking a bit (which is pretty much always). While 8x is definitely the choice for a beginner, it does not mean that it is only for beginners and many, probably most experienced birders use 8x as their primary binocular.
10x can definitely help show some markings on birds. For still and slow birds in good light, or when it is easy to track birds (think hawks) 10x can be an excellent choice. They are a little bit less versatile, they are a little bit harder to use, require a bit more technique and steadiness. Still a really good choice for birding. 10x make IDing birds a bit easier (in good light and with good technique) but the overall image is a bit less pleasant to look at, and that is really important to me, less so to other people. 10x is a very popular choice among birders (probably slightly less popular than 8x, but not by much). If you are interested in watching how birds behave, get 8x, if you really want to see those faint markings to make a positive ID, 10x may work better for you.
12x is not for birding. I've heard of some birders using them in some situations, but I have yet to actually meet one. 12x is better suited for astronomy or looking at targets or any time you know you can be sitting still and resting your binoculars on a large static object. 12x is a very specialized tool, it should not be the only pair of binoculars you own.
I hope this helps.
Low light performance seems very good for a 12x42 bino. At dusk I can train these on a black hole in the woods 200' distant and see a surprising amount of detail in the trees. Sharpness of the image is impressive across the field of view, except for a small area of softness at the top and at the left and right edges of the fov that do not, however, distract from the overall viewing experience (not noticeable unless you specifically look for it).
Contrast in these binos is inherently high, and there is some false color in contrasty lighting situations. Construction of the Nikons seems sturdy enough. Achieving best focus requires some care, as the binos can seem to be slightly out of collimation if focus is off.
Regarding complaints about the loosely fitting eyepiece cover falling off, instructions in the owner's manual (fig. 1, page 13) show the neckstrap threaded thru both sides of the eyepiece cover. If these instructions are followed correctly, the cover will not fall off, and will always be in position to protect the eyepieces until viewing an object; then, all one need do is lift the cover off the ep and pull it back toward the viewer. I think it's a great solution that resolves the lost eyepiece cover problem while keeping the optics protected until ready for viewing.
A nice padded black belt case and a wide black canvas neckstrap with the gold Nikon logo are included.
Since these binos are so contrasty and bright,they are great for stargazing. Comparing them to an older pair of porro 7x35s and a roof 10X42, the Nikon was the clear winner. My suburban skies are not that dark, but globular cluster M13 in Hercules was found immediately, as were the brighter galaxies M81 and M82. Under darker skies the 12X42s provide a major "wow" factor, with the night sky becoming alive with glittering celestial objects.
There's a common term about "eye fatigue"... and while I can appreciate the crisp optics of these binoculars, the attention required to maintain a cohesive circular view (distance the set is "opened" as well as the proper distance of the eye-cups) has limited my enjoyment in using them.
The latest generation Monarchs have gone up significantly in price as well. The best advice I can give is that you might want to check these out in person, or even buy them in person, before ordering from any online store.