- Northern Industrial Utility Trailer - 40in. x 48in.
Specifications for this item
|Brand Name||Northern Industrial|
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This utility trailer is a perfect transport solution for hauling mulch, dirt or machinery. Complete road-ready kit includes fenders! Red powder-coated steel frame houses orange side markers and rear tail lights. Black fenders prevent rocks and debris from damaging your cargo. Safety chains and lighting with wiring harness connect to your vehicle to ensure your trailer is safe on the road, even in the rain or at night. Easy assembly with basic tools. Includes 1 7/8in. coupler assembly with safety chains, approved lighting, wiring and connector, tail and turn signals, side running lights, high-speed wheels and tires, and slipper springs. You add plywood. Assembly required.
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Top Customer Reviews
It is easy to put together and great quality.
Comment for Amazon: The description of this product originally stated free shipping but the shipping was not free and the seller worked with Amazon to correct the issue with the product description but I still had to pay the shipping fee.
Once the trailer is assembled you will find that in order to use it, depending on your state, you may need to spend a significant amount of time and money in addition to the cost of a trailer to put it on the road.
I live in Pennsylvania and this is what I discovered:
* All kit trailers in Pennsylvania must under go an enhanced inspection at a special service station. I called several stations and this costs between $120 - $240+ and some of the inspection stations have long waiting lists. The cost according to one mechanic was mostly due to the complexity and time it takes to fill out the paperwork.
* The inspection station is required to fill out a 6 page form, take pictures of the trailer and submit these to PENNDOT. The process is more geared to inspecting motor vehicles but somehow also applies to kit trailers.
* The inspection station informed me that the fenders were not up to par in Pennsylvania and that I would need to purchase mudflaps for the wheels or find another way to extend the fenders by 7 inches. I am unable to find a reference to tell me exactly how to know this ahead of time. This was not difficult but it did take extra time and I had to purtrchase and modify mudflaps for the trailer.
* I will had to pay another $90 in fees to get the plate, title and registration for it.
* It took about 60 days for a Pennsylvania State VIN plate and license plate to arrive.
My experience is that if you live in Pennsylvania, you need to consider whether or not you are willing to wait a few months to be able to use the trailer and if you are willing to pay more for shipping, inspections and regulatory fees than the trailer actually costs.
Frame is 48" long (excluding the tongue and hitch)& 40" from inside fender to fender. Went from a truck to a SUV and needed a trailer to serve as a truck bed to haul things that were too big or dirty for the SUV's interior. After looking at hitch mounted baskets and bike racks I stumbled on this and realized how much more versatile this trailer would be FOR THE SAME PRICE! My experience has validated this assumption.
I assembled it on the grass in my front yard. Use masking tape to label the sides of the rails and which end was forward. I only got confused by the side rails determining which side was FWD. the marker lights and spring attach locations cleared it up. I kept all bolts (came with self-locking nuts nylon insert type) loose until I checked to see if the frame was square, and it was! Tail lights are not attached on the back of the frame which allows it to be tilted and stored vertically.
I went above and beyond with the wiring and used, butt splices, then coated the connections I made with silicone grease, then used heat shrink tube to make the connections waterproof. Used white ground wire to each light fixture and crimped a ring terminal and attached to fixture's ground fastener. Used gorilla glue to hold wires in place rather than metal clips. Be sure to route wire where future accessories will not rub/pinch harness. Decked top with ¾" plywood secured with 3/8 eye bolts with fender washers. The plywood took the flex out of the frame and made it nicely ridged. I will probably add a longer tongue that is foldable and adjust the fenders so they are flush with the top of the frame. I use a 2" ball so I switch to a 2" hitch. Holes were drilled in the tongue for the 2" hitch.
I pull this trailer in town at low speed, but also take occasional 140 mile legs down the roughest roads in Arkansas at 60mph. No loose fasteners have been yet to be found. 4'x8' sheets can be hauled if the sheets are stacked laterally (side long) on the trailer. See holes in the front and back of the frame rails that allow material to be added for stops. Steak pockets are sized correctly for 1x4 steaks for side boards. Tires have held up well to my amazement. If the trailer makes a sound, it's because I hit a pothole or I didn't secure its cargo completely.
This trailer filled the need for hauling bikes, sacks of sand and concrete, loose mulch, & furniture with a SUV.
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