Other Sellers on Amazon
+ Free Shipping
+ Free Shipping
+ Free Shipping
Nostalgia KRS2100 5.1 Cubic-Foot Full Size Kegorator Draft Beer Dispenser
|You Save:||$111.53 (22%)|
- Enter your model number to make sure this fits.
- 5.1 cubic foot capacity
- Spring-loaded tap for easy pull and release dispensing
- Includes one American Sankey "D" Double Tap System
- Double meter regulator
- 2.5-ounce CO2 tank (unfilled)
- 13-inch chrome beer tap tower ad guardrail
- Stainless steel removable drip tray
Frequently bought together
Customers who bought this item also bought
From the manufacturer
Kegorator is topped with a 13-inch beer tap tower, along with a drip tray and chrome guardrail. Drip tray removes easily for quick cleanup.
CO2 Tank and Double Regulator
Double regulator works with 2.5 lb. CO2 tank to measure output and tank pressure, making it effortless to produce the perfect pour.
High quality keg coupler attaches easily, allowing you to get the beer flowing quickly.
Four rolling casters provide easy Kegorator mobility. Once rolled into position, the front two casters lock to keep the unit firmly in place.
The Nostalgia KRS2100 5.1-Cubic Foot Full Size Kegorator Draft Beer Dispenser is to serve the thirstiest of crowds. Featuring a full size 5.1-cubic foot capacity and a spring-loaded tap that makes dispensing easy. The included American Sankey "D" double tap system and double meter regulator makes the beer flow with easy. Add the unique element to any backyard barbecues, rec rooms or in the man cave.
Top Customer Reviews
The instructions have been completely revamped and are very easy to follow. All the spare parts provided have been labeled in the manual, no mysteries there either. Before this arrived I downloaded a PDF copy of the old instructions, and it's true the early buyers were basically left in the dark.
I followed the instructions, charged my tank, threw in a 1/4 barrel, and no problems at all. The beer has a perfect head on it, and my monitoring of temps have been hovering around 34-35f. That's with the thermostat set to maximum, so I'll be watching that closely. I don't want my beer to freeze!
A few things to note:
1) The keg tower rubber washer (#5) was not already installed, and is not really mentioned in the manual. Be sure to install it otherwise there's not a tight seal between the tower and fridge and cool air will escape. You'll know if it's not on because the tower installs too easy and doesn't feel tight. The nice side effect of this design is that the tower is basically cooled, so less stale beer in the line.
2) A 5 pound CO2 tank will fit with a full 1/2 barrel, and can be bought at a local gas supply or welding shop filled for about 50 bucks. Refills on the tank are around $9. The 2.5 pound tank shipped is fine, and I'll be filling it so I have a full tank at all times. The 2.5 pound tank should be able to dispense 2-4 1/2 barrel kegs, the 5 pound tank 4-8 1/2 barrel kegs. Tighter fittings, lower CO2 settings, more kegs...
3) The casters are optional, and there are already self leveling feet installed if (like me) you prefer the unit to be shorter and stationary. Height to the top of the fridge door is exactly 31 inches without the caster installed.
Anyway, given all the features and the insane price of $380 shipped I can't see how anyone could be unhappy at this point. All the negative reviews made me really ponder this purchase, but I'm happy to report they're all talking about a different product. I'll post a follow up at 12 months, or before if I experience any problems.
And thanks to the early buyers who posted reviews! Nostalgia listened and thanks to you I have a really nice unit.
Keeps the beer COLD. If you're having problems, either you need to turn up the dial on the compressor, or you probably need to move it away from the wall. Go look at how far your regular fridge is from the wall. That far.
Easy. Anything that was difficult about setting this thing up is just necessary knowledge that you're going to need to have to safely operate a kegerator of any type. No kegerator will be or should be plug and play, but this thing gets it as close as it you want it to.
IF YOU GET FOAM:
The most important thing to remember is that it's (almost) never the kegerator's fault. That's good, because it means you can fix it!
Did you get your keg cold and just take it out of the car? Let it rest, you agitated the CO2 like shaking a can of soda.
Did you let your keg chill for at least 8 hours (preferably 12-18)? DON'T SKIP THIS STEP! I know it's really tough, but it's unavoidable. If you don't pay attention to this, you will (a) incorrectly set your pressure, (b) get very flat, but paradoxically foamy beer. What happens at warm temperatures is that the CO2 and your beer separate in the keg (like oil and vinegar in dressing). When you open up the tap, they explosively mix like a warm bottle of soda. You will lose a ton of beer, and trust me, you don't want to drink the beer that comes out when it's warm and flat. If you've never done this before, you're going to ignore this advice and try it. That's good, now you'll know why it tastes terrible and what to do to fix it.
Okay, your keg is chilled. Still foamy? The first beer of the day will always be a little foamy. This is because the plastic lines that travel from the top of the fridge to the faucet are warm. After you pour one or two beers, the cold beer will chill the lines. Until then, the lines will be warming the beer. Warm beer = foam, remember? If you keep your kegerator in a very warm room, or a warm spot of the room, this problem will reoccur every hour or so of disuse.
Alright, you've chilled your keg, poured a few beers, and it's still foamy. Well, the lines in this kegerator are short. That means that the ideal pressure can be finicky. Now that the keg is cold, your regulator should read an accurate pressure. Try starting at 9. If there's no foam, you can take it all the way up to 12 or even 15 if you're adventurous. If there is foam, you can take it down to 5 without too many problems. Between 2 and 4, you should definitely not have any foam if you followed the directions above. Just know that if you take more than a week to drink your beer and you're keeping the pressure at 2 - 4, you might end up with flat beer in the keg. That's okay, just up the pressure back to 9 while you're not using it. If you let it get flat you can try leaving it at 20psi for a while to force carbonate it again. Turn it back down before you start drinking it again, though. Also, when you're turning the pressure down, you'll need to pull the little ring (on the regulator not the coupler) for a second to let the regulator relax and get an accurate reading.
The keg will hang off the edge of the fridge. The door is a half moon shape that closes over it. Some people hate this design. I personally think it's cool. It really says, "HEY, There's a keg in me!"
Comes with a 2.5# (pronounced "pound") tank. Mine was actually really nice, high quality. Probably would last 7-10 kegs. If you can find somewhere that fills this, great! I couldn't. I ended up just buying a 5# tank from my supply shop. $60 filled, lasts twice as long. Only downside is that it needs to be balanced a bit on the ledge to fit inside, but it DOES fit. I recommend you keep it inside and ignore anyone that tells you to mod the kegerator to put it outside. Cold CO2 means less foam.
Doesn't hold Coors kegs. Solution: don't drink Coors. Why do you have a kegerator, again? In all seriousness, the reason is that Coors kegs use a beveled keg style that is several inches wider around its belly, and it just doesn't fit.
Beverage line is about 5'. I'd prefer about 6'. Before I replaced the lines, sometimes I'd have to turn the pressure down to 5 or 6 psi, normally you'd prefer 9 to 12 psi. Don't fret about that. After about 6 months you'll figure out how to do the calculations and make all the lines exactly the length you want. Or not, you could be completely happy with this without ever messing with it. Pours a little slow at 5 psi, but it's worth it to avoid foam.
Originally, assembly was a bit perplexing for me as I didn't know which washers were for what or where, and I had leftover parts. The ended up actually being spare, but that wasn't documented. All you really need to know is that the really hard, thick washer connects directly between your CO2 tank and the regulator. As for the rest, you might get a little wet, but you'll be okay.
Use teflon tape. Especially on the air hoses, but why not everywhere? I don't know if this kit comes with any (I wouldn't expect it to) but do yourself a favor and get your hands on some. It's cheap and easy to use; just wrap clockwise!
Included keg coupler only fits American beers. This isn't particular to this kegerator; they all only have Sankey D couplers. You should just know before you try to hook up a keg of Stella. Your local beverage shop might lie to you. You can get other couplers if you like foreign beers. The other major kinds are Sankey S (European) and Sankey A (German). Don't mess with these unless you have a good supplier. Quality of imports in kegs is finicky.
The tower mount is non-standard. When I replaced my tower I had to drill new holes. Be careful if you do this. It's easy to accidentally drill too far and hit the chill plate. Trust me. I was lucky enough that even though I drilled through the chill plate that I didn't hit any cooling lines. Be more careful than I was if you attempt this.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
Only negative is that the CO2 bottle is in the refrigeration compartment making it difficult to adjust PSI, and the...Read more
1) knowledge of how Kegerators are put together, because when you want to take it apart...Read more