NovaMass Black LCD Display Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly With Frame for Samsung Galaxy S4 DMA Models - Verizon I545 - Sprint L720 - US Cellular R970 - Cricket R970C
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- Genuine Samsung CDMA Galaxy S4 LCD Assembly with Frame BLACK
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Original Samsung Galaxy S IV AMOLED OLED Screen & Top Glass Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly BLUE CDMA Version direct from the manufacturer. This is real thing and not a cheap copy or reproduction of the part.
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By the way, you'll notice the the black tape strip over the "Samsung" logo when you receive the screen. This is due to U.S. Customs laws prohibiting import of multiple counterfeit items for sale into the U.S.. It passes a "visual inspection" this way so it can get passed through.
-This is most definitely not an OEM Samsung product, as Samsung does not sell a replacement part for this phone at all. The differences in the appearance are pretty obvious.
-The "Samsung" logo is bolder font and not set on a black background/shadow like the original.
-The texture dots behind the glass are not texture material like the original, they are printed.
-The screen is not Samsung's AMOLED, the picture quality is not as bright or sharp.
-The glass is not Gorilla Glass, you can tell by how easily your finger smudges the surface and how quickly heat affects it.
-Due to the oils of your finger smudging the cheaper glass, the proximity sensor (little sensor to the right of the ear speaker that turns off the screen during calls) function is flawed. It will turn the screen off, but seldom reactivate it unless you press the home button or the glass over the sensor is very clean. Hit and miss on this feature.
-The phone runs warm/hot. Possibly due to cheaper circuitry components, it is a very noticeable difference from the original display assembly.
-Despite the above, it works
-For the price, it is running my S4 flawlessly as of now (2 Days)
-It's only the screen and digitizer, so your IMEI #, cameras, speakers, processors, charging port, volume/power buttons, 3.5 mm jack and sensors are still original from you old phone.
-The screen is responsive and all front facing buttons are working
-The average person would not know the difference
So If you can't afford a $700 phone because you don't have an upgrade yet, and are in a tight spot, the $100 is pretty much worth it. Just be careful with the screen as it is going to be more fragile than an original S4 screen. I don't know how long this replacement will keep running the phone as well as it does for me currently, but so far so good. I do fear how warm it runs will become a problem after a while, but maybe not. Don't get me wrong it's not really hot to the touch, it's just warmer than I remember compared to my original screen. The bottom line is, if you carefully install your OEM components into the phone and double check your connections; this should work out well as a temporary fix until you get that upgrade from your carrier. Oh, and I would've given 4 stars if the seller didn't try to pass it off as "Original Samsung", technically a misdemeanor (CA PC 532) but hey, who's counting? Oh wait, I am.........
And so begins the odyssey to replace the broken glass of my Samsung Galaxy S4. l have also be posted this as a review of the glass-only replacement that turned out not to be the best answer to my problem. The screen was damaged only 17 days after I bought the phone - it was in my pocket in an Otterbox Commuter Series case (which does not protect the screen), and when I pulled it out I was very unhappy to see a badly crushed section of the screen surrounded by radiating cracks. I have no idea what did it - perhaps I leaned against something. I researched various options and was told that I could have it professionally replaced for somewhere between $300 - $350 because they would replace the entire screen assembly, not just the glass. However the touchscreen was still functional, meaning the digitizer/LED display was undamaged, and therefore I should be able to replace just the glass. I watched Youtube videos demonstrating the glass-only replacement option, and bought a kit that only cost $15. I also bought a Wagner HT 1000 heat gun for about $20 since it was clear from the videos that a hair dryer did not get hot enough to liquefy the glue holding down the glass. The replacement was quite successful. Using the heat gun and some tools I was able to remove the broken glass in about 10 minutes. Incidentally, it's very difficult to get the glass removal started with the plastic tools - I was not able to wedge any of them between the glass and the frame. I used the edge of a thin metal knife blade at the very edge to get the glass started, then the plastic guitar picks and other tools to complete prying the glass up. I recommend watching several of the available Youtube videos in order to get a good idea of what you're up against. The most difficult part of the repair was cleaning the digitizer surface of all the glue and small fragments of glass. I used isopropyl alcohol, but for the most part it was a matter of rubbing with my fingers to ball up the glue. Once the digitizer surface is immaculately clean, the new glass is attached with a very thin strip of two-sided tape that is mounted on blue plastic. The tape is placed around the edges of the screen and is pre-cut to fit around the speaker and other obstructions . When it arrived the tape on mine had been pulled off the plastic a little but I was able to fudge it around so that it matched up with the edges of the digitizer. (Note: the tape stretches out of shape easily). The new glass is then placed on the phone and pressed down, and it's a good idea to heat it up a little so that the everything settles and is nice and stuck down. The new glass looked great. I turned on the phone and everything worked . . . HOWEVER - the touchscreen did not function as well as it had before. I can only describe it's behavior as "wonky". Examples of wonky behavior included the "pinch-to-zoom" sometimes either not working at all, or working backward (i.e. pinching in would zoom out), multiple letters coming up when I tried to type a text message (like 3 or 4 of the same letter from one tap), and occasionally no response from the screen at all, particularly with the menu and back buttons. Someone else might have been okay with this since the repair only cost about $35 including the heat gun, but I use my phone for everything, and I was looking at another 2 years before I could buy a replacement for less than $600. In short, it would have driven me crazy. Based on other information I had acquired during my research I realized that the problem now was that there was no longer any direct contact between the glass and digitizer underneath because it had been necessary to remove the layer of glue that had once bound them together. While UV glue is available, it seemed that very few people had managed to use it effectively. I had read about results ranging from a huge sticky mess to complete ruining of the phone. With these considerations in mind I decided to dump $195 on a complete OEM glass/digitizer/LED screen assembly. There are excellent videos available for this type of repair - I kept one open on my computer and followed along with the expert. This type of repair does not involve heat, however it does involve working with screws, coaxial cables, strip connectors and other components that are practically microscopic. It was precisely like doing a computer upgrade if you can imagine the size of a laptop computer that Barbie would use. This sort of thing wouldn't be for everyone, however I have some experience with computers and electronics in general and felt reasonably confident. The screwdrivers that had come with the glass replacement kit were perfect for this repair (although I have no idea why they were included with the glass replacement kit - they aren't needed for that). I had some difficulty making sure the flex cables from the new screen to the motherboard were connected properly - it took a couple of tries - however the end result is a phone that looks brand new and more importantly acts brand new.
What you can do:
Buy this pre-assembled replacement kit and replace the entire screen. Yes, it's more expensive than just replacing the glass but you'll end up with a much better result. After replacing my screen, I was able to sell my old screen with the cracked glass on craigslist for 125 bucks.
Before you start:
Watch these videos, they were step by step for my Verizon SCH-I545 except for the design of the charging port cover mine had a little plastic arm that went vertical the length of the phone these videos didn't (you remove them the same way).
Video 1: ["[...]"]
I suggest following Video 1 while replacing your screen but watch Video 2 at 1:00m and beyond for instructions on how to properly remove the plastic back cover from the screen of your phone. Video 1 leaves out instruction on how to remove the back cover and skips right over it.
Great product with a warranty, it arrived quickly (I paid 5$ for expedited shipping and it arrived in 2 days) and was packed properly so that the screen wouldn't be damaged during shipping.