- Can be used with our Kapton Tape, purple glue or Blue Painters Tape for a professional print surface.
- Advanced users of Afinia and UP! printers really appreciate the ability to print models without raft and with a base that has a very smooth mirror-like finish.
- Has an extremely flat surface. Used instead of perf board on Afinia and UP! printers.
- Borosilicate is a very high temperature glass. It has a melt temperature of about 800° C. It has a very low thermal expansion coefficient.
- Prepare a second plate and quickly switch plates when a model finishes printing. This significantly reduces printer idle time between prints.
Octave Borosilicate glass platform for Afinia and UP! 3D Printers
|Price:||$16.00 + $6.25 shipping|
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Can be used with our Kapton Tape, purple glue or Blue Painters Tape for a professional print surface.
Advanced users of Afinia and UP! printers really appreciate the ability to print models without raft and with a base that has a very smooth mirror-like finish.
* Borosilicate is a very high temperature glass. It has a melt temperature of about 800° C.
* It has a very low thermal expansion coefficient.
* Resistant to thermal shock compared to regular glass.
* Has an extremely flat surface.
* Used instead of perf board on Afinia and UP! printers.
* Can be used with purple glue, Kapton tape or Blue Painters Tape (available separately).
* Prepare a second plate and quickly switch plates when a model finishes printing. This significantly reduces printer idle time between prints.
* Reduces warping, however platform has to be properly leveled as is the case with any platform on a 3D printer.
* 5.5” x 5.5” x 0.08” (140mm x 140mm x 2mm).
Octave’s Borosilicate glass plates are specially manufactured for use as print platforms on Afinia and UP! 3D Printers. The plates have smooth ground edges for safer use and ease of handling.
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With this piece of glass, though, I have managed perfect, flat-bottomed prints without the raft. I simply pour some acetone in a small mason jar and dissolve scrap ABS in in until its consistency is similar to school glue. Then I "paint" the slurry on the glass. The acetone evaporates and leaves an extremely thin layer of plastic behind on the glass, and this results in superior adhesion and stability. Ever since, I have had excellent results with no raft.
Using a mix of acetone and ABS scraps works like magic. Use a weight scale. Put an empty glass jar (which has a sealable screw-on lid) on the scale and zero out the scale. Then pour in some acetone. Just a half-inch to test this. Note the weight. Now cut up one-tenth of that weight in white ABS scraps into fine bits. (I found strongly colored ABS did not mix as well) pour in the bits, seal the jar and stir. Let it sit for some time. Use a vinyl paint brush (1") to apply this slurry in a thin film on the glass and let dry. Print.
If you got the ratio right, the print will hold down better than any surface I have tried.
Let the print cool. Here is where the second bit of magic happens: as it cools, the raft begins to unstick from the glass. You can hear it clicking as bits release themselves ftom the glass.
Later recoat the glass and continue.
When you do a lot of prints you will find the coating bubbling and getting rough. When you are ready to clean it for a good new coating simply soak the glass by spraying Windex on it and letting it sink in. The layer slips right off like a discarded skin.
I'm telling you: there is no magic in the world but this comes very close to convincing me otherwise.