Oh my goodness, how I love onions, and I'm so happy I discovered this book. A huge Thank-You to the authors who have put my favorite root vegetable in the spotlight: in the authors' words, "the surest kitchen partner we know." Best of all, despite the dozens of cookbooks in my kitchen library and a separate recipe folder for "Onions," I put a record-setting number of 14 Post-Its on my hard-cover's 336 pages.
First, the writing is exceptional, and the food memories irresistible: for example, how their 84-year-old Aunt Aggie taught them to make "fried water" (onion, egg, bread): "growing up poor but eating well."
Almost every recipe has a stunning color photo taken by co-author Ambrosino, and there are technique photo sequences sprinkled throughout. For example, how to finely chop an onion or fold pierogies.
The authors thoroughly explain every different type of allium--red, white, sweet, pearl, cipollini, and spring onions as well scallions, chives, shallots, leeks, ramps, and several garlic varieties. They tell us where to find, and how to store and preserve them. In addition, the "Our Allium Pantry" chapter is a complete guide to many of the ingredients that accompany the alliums: the authors occasionally suggest brand names and provide recipes for some of their favored spice mixes. In many recipes, the authors make an effort to suggest substitutions--or not (do not substitute "elephant" garlic for garlic). Do you wonder what to do with some of the precious alliums that show up at your Farmers' Market only for a week or two, such as ramps, garlic scapes, and green garlic? It's all here: in addition to 14 pages devoted to garlic scapes and green garlic, garlic gets its own chapter with 27 recipes! Ingredients are, for the most part, accessible and affordable.
Onions play the starring role in most dishes, while in others--for example, Red Beans and Rice and Lentil Salad 101--the alliums are quietly supporting the dish's essential flavors. This is true to the authors' premise, which is that almost anything good to cook begins with an onion. The recipes include many classics such as French onion soup, latkes, Marcella's classic tomato sauce, onion and rosemary focaccia, cipollini agrodolce, and garlic bread, but also some new ones: how come I never thought of making chive pasta? There is not only a recipe for scallion sesame pancakes, but also 9 photos demonstrating the technique of rolling out the pancakes.
Some recipes are time-consuming, calling for preparation of a yeasted dough, including several pizzas--such mouth-watering dishes as Pissaladiere, Onion Stromboli, and Aunt Emma's Pierogi--surely worthy of a bit of extra effort. However, the vast majority of recipes are simple, with plentiful salads and sides, as well as numerous sauces, salsas, butters, dips, spice mixes, confits, and pickles (yes, even pickled pearl onions for your Gibson martinis). Not only that, but so many of the recipes are perfect for making right from your pantry on a weeknight--provided, of course, that your pantry includes onions.
Tips are abundant throughout the book: for example, how to avoid tears while chopping onions, how to peel pesky pearl onions, and what to do with sprouted garlic.
There are a lot of recipes in this book--more than 150--and, if you love onions, I highly recommend the hard-cover (which was actually less expensive than the Kindle edition) for ease of use. I'm going to get cracking on my 14 Post-It'd recipes and will post updates and photos as I go.
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From the Publisher
Grits With Scallions and Bacon
Serves 4 to 6
Sunday morning, a fresh foot of snow on the walk-this recipe, inspired by one from chef Edna Lewis, is exactly what you want to eat when you come inside from shoveling. And who would say no to a poached egg on top?
Directions
Bring the water to a boil in a heavy saucepan then reduce the heat to moderate, so that it simmers gently. Add the grits in a slow stream, whisking constantly to keep lumps from forming.
Continue whisking for about 3 minutes after all the grits have been added, then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring regularly to keep from scorching, until the grits are creamy and fully tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Cover and keep warm over very low heat until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a heavy skillet over moderately high heat until crisp, 7 to 8 minutes. While the bacon cooks, trim the scallions and slice them into ½-inch pieces. When the bacon is ready, transfer it to a paper towel-lined plate to cool. Add the scallions and garlic to the bacon fat in the skillet and cook over moderately high heat until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.
Add the cream, reduce the heat, and simmer until slightly thickened, 4 to 5 minutes. Grate a little nutmeg over the scallion mixture. To serve, spoon the grits into warm bowls and top with plenty of the creamed scallions. Crumble the bacon over each bowl and serve at once.
Ingredients:
- 5 cups water
- 1 cup stoneground grits
- Kosher salt
- 4 ounces smoked bacon
- 5 bunches scallions
- 1 plump garlic clove, finely chopped
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1 cup heavy cream
- Whole nutmeg
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The book contents are great, thats why I bought it to add to my collection. However, I wasn’t expecting the lower binder to be ripped. Had hoped for a new, perfect condition product. You can do better Amazon in quality checking products before shipping to customers.
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on September 2, 2018
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on January 8, 2023
The book contents are great, thats why I bought it to add to my collection. However, I wasn’t expecting the lower binder to be ripped. Had hoped for a new, perfect condition product. You can do better Amazon in quality checking products before shipping to customers.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on April 3, 2017
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David Park
Appreciate your onions
Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on October 8, 2018
Nellia33
Bad shape!
Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on November 2, 2020
Nellia33
Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on November 2, 2020
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Thomas M. Iddison
Wonderful
Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on September 25, 2018
