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- All-Natural Waxes & Oils
- Made in USA
- All-Natural Fabric Wax to Waterproof & Protect Canvas, Tincloth, Denim, & More
- Environmentally Friendly & Safe Ingredients -Handmade in Portland, Oregon, USA-
- Original Formula : Long-Lasting Water Repellent Seal
- 100% Natural Ingredients: Non-Toxic, No Silicone, No Petroleum
- Great for use on Canvas Shoes, Hats, Jackets, Rucksacks, Backpacks, & More!
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The Original Otter Wax Heavy Duty Fabric Wax Water Repellent was born from the need to stay dry, and the desire to do it naturally. Our wax offers long-lasting protection from the elements and contains only ALL-NATURAL ingredients from renewable sources. Otter Wax is the first and only water repellent wax that doesn’t utilize paraffin, silicone, or other synthetic ingredients. Otter Wax is formulated to be both highly effective and environmentally friendly. Our No-Mess application means you can easily apply directly onto fabrics at home or on the go. After the first application, keep Otter Wax in your car or ski bag for quick, on-the-go touch-ups. Otter Wax : Heavy Duty Water Repellent Canvas Wax featuring Long-Lasting Protection, Easy Application (No Messy Tins), All-Natural Ingredients (No Silicone, No Petroleum), Non-Toxic Formula (Apply Anywhere, Anytime : No Obnoxious Odors or Dangerous Chemicals), Versatility (Use on Canvas Shoes, Hats, Jackets, Rucksacks, Backpacks, Tents, & Much More)
- Product Dimensions: 3 x 2 x 1 inches
- Shipping Weight: 2.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
- Origin: USA
- ASIN: B005MV99L8
- Item model number: 0001
- Date first available at Amazon.com: September 14, 2011
- Average Customer Review:
Top Customer Reviews
APPLICATION: My first attempt with with a hair dryer and a 2.25 oz bar of Otter Wax on a new pair of Carhartt duck pants took a lot of time and left the fabric with a white crust of wax that didn't absorb into the fabric and after a morning in the brush my pants were wringing wet. So I bought two 5.0 oz bars and a heat gun and did a second application. Using a heat gun is the way to go! It's much faster and the wax penetrated well into and sometimes completely through the fabric and the finished product was beautiful. Unfortunately, my beautiful waxed pants again got soaked.
WASHING: I haven't washed these, but used a stiff brush to remove dry mud. Don't let mud dry on your waxed pants! The drying mud will suck the wax right out of the fabric. If you get mud on them, hose them off.
CONCLUSION: So, after $106.67 of wax and equipment, I have a really cool looking pair of pants that are not up to forestry work. It was never my intention of wear these pants in the woods in the rain, that's asking a lot. However, I expected them to hold up on a dry day in wet brush. They didn't. I'll try another product.
PHOTOS: There are two pictures taken in the woods, one showing how wet the outside of the pants got and the other of the inside of a pants leg to show that the water soaked through the wax. The other picture of of the pants after waxing, they looked great.
Using a hairdryer or heat gun heat up a section of the item you are going to wax and heat up the wax a bit until just soft. Then rub it on in long, even, non-overlapping strokes. Then while it's still warm even it out with by rubbing it in with your fingers pretty hard. Reapply heat if it gets cold and sticky. Once the entire item has been coated make another pass with the hairdryer or heat gun to heat up the wax again to set it (get it good and hot). Then put it up on a rack to dry for a couple days (mine took about 4 days). You'll know when it's dry when it is mostly not waxy feeling anymore and any excess wax will turn white (check around buttons and seams for this). Next take a clean shoeshine brush or stiff bristled brush and brush the crap out of it until the fabric feels a little stiff but not waxy at all and all the excess white wax is gone. You may get dark spots where there was a little extra wax but I liked that distressed look which is why I chose this wax.
Second issue: if you want an invisible water seal don't use this as it darkens the fabric and does so unevenly. If you want a waxed jean and enjoy being really flammable and or on fire use parrafin wax instead.
The directions on the box do not give the best results. I found the reviews here to be very helpful with regard to getting the better results.
At first I followed Otterwax's directions. The product was waxed, but the wax did not penetrate despite manually working it in. In addition, the manual application changed the canvas bag's color, but not in a good way.
Enter the heat gun-- melting the applied wax improved everything. Heating-up the bag caused the wax to penetrate into the canvas and restored the exterior of the bag to the its original color. When heated, the wax just wicked into the canvas. I had to make several passes to melt every bit of wax into the fabric. Take your time, and use low heat to avoid damaging the fabric.
It goes on like a waxy paste, sitting up on top of the fabric. You heat it with a hair dryer and it melts into the fabric. I waited overnight for it to cure. (Note. when it first goes on it is the constancy of shoe polish --paste. It does not disappear. The cloth is coated and greasy. You have to heat it. Don't overdue it on the brim of the hat since its hard to make it disappear on harder surfaces.)
I'm glad I experimented on a hat I didn't wear first. Once on and cured --it does water proof very well. 3 days later and the smell is practically gone.