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9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes Paperback – November 25, 2009

by Dave MacLeod (Author), Claire MacLeod (Editor)

31 customer reviews

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9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons. Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber. This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference. Dave Macleod has crystallised 16 years experience as a world class climber, sport scientist and renowned coach into an accessible and thought provoking guide to improving at rock climbing.

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Product details

Paperback: 176 pages
Publisher: Rare Breed Productions (November 25, 2009)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 095642810X
ISBN-13: 978-0956428103
Product Dimensions: 6 x 0.4 x 9 inches
Shipping Weight: 9.1 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review: 31 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #115,426 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #16 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Rock Climbing
- #151 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Mountain Climbing
- #1742 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Outdoor Recreation

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David J Wells

Practical guide to falling not climbing.

September 30, 2014

Format: PaperbackVerified Purchase

A good little read with the emphasis on 'little'. It didn't teach me much that I hadn't already learnt from 'How to climb 5.12', but the emphasis on practising falling was worth the read. Already my family climbing group have all shown improvement by falling better and more often.

I agree with the other reviewers that this is very much written in a 'concious streaming' style and more an essay than a book. I also agree that the absence of pictures or glossary of terms is wound wanting. What is a crimp vs. open handed? You shouldn't have to Google terms while reading a book.

Summarise the book:

Practise falling lots.
Don't think you can be a weekend warrior.
Let that demotivate you.
Get even more upset that your efforts in a climbing gym are a waste of time.
Get jealous you don't live next to the crag.
Wish you hadn't read the book and move on, or FAIL.

Comment 3 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?

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Anna

Great read and big help with climbing

October 15, 2012

Format: PaperbackVerified Purchase

I am not quite finished the book but already it has helped me a ton. A lot of the things seem common sense but having them put in words helped me realize the importance and see what I was doing wrong clearly. The examples are great and its super easy to follow. There are also some more technical aspects that have helped me improve. I wouldn't have known them and now I do. This book is helping me understand some things better and is building up my confidence more. I'm using a lot of the information and seeing improvement. It is gradual and slow as he points out but it is there. Some things are also quickly improving. The way he writes is wonderful. I highly recommend it.

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Paco

Very informative, poorly written

June 24, 2014

Format: PaperbackVerified Purchase

I really liked the book, but it doesn't read right. I don't blame the author, he is very knowledgeable on the subject and gives great advice, but the editors didn't do a great job with making it an enjoyable read.

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Zachary Rubin

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

March 5, 2010

Format: PaperbackVerified Purchase

This book is not your step-by-step training guide. If you want to learn how to climb 5.12's then there are other books for that. What this book offers is a guide to shifting the way you think about climbing. Take a step back, analyze what you're doing and then consider how it can be improved or optimized. I recommend this book for anyone who is serious about advancing their climbing to it's peak level and is struggling to find coherent information on the various aspects of climbing training.

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Kiri Namtvedt

Terribly useful resource!

April 13, 2012

Format: PaperbackVerified Purchase

Dave McLeod is first and foremost a climber, and secondarily a coach, teacher, writer. These facts make him uniquely qualified to write a book of this sort, sharing the knowledge he has gleaned from his years of climbing expertise. Not all climbers can be as analytical and self-aware as this, and it takes a certain kind of thoughtfulness to pick apart what holds some back from achieving their potential.

Even a weekend warrior like me can gain valuable lessons from Dave's fine book!

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jcs9999

Great book to help you climb better

October 8, 2012

Format: PaperbackVerified Purchase

This is a very well written book including training, eating, and how to climb better, from a master. Highly recommended.

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Marcus

A disappointment

August 11, 2017

Format: PaperbackVerified Purchase

This book was pretty disappointing. Paid about $25 for 165 pages of not-very-much useful information. The author thinks most climbers are afraid of falling, and therefore need to practice falling. He also think most climbers should boulder more, climb more than once a week if they want to get better, and lose weight. It almost seems like the author is working through his own insecurities.
For the price, the book is of poor value. You are better off getting something else like The Self-Coached Climber.

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Vasken 17

Gets right to the point.

August 29, 2013

Format: PaperbackVerified Purchase

This book confronted the root problem with my climbing. Fear of falling snd fear of failure in front of others. It also gave options when dealing with hard leads.

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Most recent customer reviews

M. Swenson

One of these things was not like the other...

Warning: when I received this book, the cover and back were accurate, but the text inside was a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT BOOK: "Enterprise Architecture: A Practitioner's...Read more

Published 1 year ago

Uttuck

A Book Every Climber Should Read

Really good book. It was is the second best rock climbing book I've ever read (behind Rock Climber's Training Manual), but it had a lot of good information to offer and it really...Read more

Published 1 year ago

PipPip_Hooray

Good for any level of climber

Awesome book, I will say if you aren't the tough love kind of person it will be somewhat depressing, especially if you are new to climbing, or trying to stay blind to the fact...Read more

Published 1 year ago

Tiber

Five Stars

Great book for anyone ready to challenge their climbing habits.

Published on March 4, 2015

Jesse

Good, but needs some editorial help.

This book has a lot going for it, there's some great info that would be useful to both beginner and advanced climbers, particularly about the mental aspects of climbing.Read more

Published on January 31, 2015

Andrzej Moyseowicz

Buy for your climber friends: A book to get your head into upgrading your climbing (especially after a climbing "break")

I have the tendency to over engineer my approach to climbing due to my limited free time around my start up, family, and everything else that gets in the way of climbing.Read more

Published on December 27, 2014

Seruko

Mostly Useless

Mostly useless. A lengthy rant on what the author imagines they dislike in others, the first actionable piece of real advice doesn't come till page 36.Read more

Published on April 22, 2014

Fernando Araujo

great!

I really enjoyed this book, it's very different from the other ones of the kind in its approach to teach the lessons.

Published on February 13, 2014

Guy who buys stuff

Too vague and wordy to learn from

I expected it to be good advice about how to be a better climber. Here's what you get:

1. No pictures
2. Little concrete advice
3.Read more

Published on December 4, 2013

David Kendall

Good book in need of better layout.

9 out of 10 climbers is a really book for moving to the next level of climbing with clear instructions and guidance. However, the layout looks like a free tract more than a book.Read more

Published on November 27, 2013

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