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9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes Paperback – November 25, 2009
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- Publisher : Rare Breed Productions (November 25, 2009)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 176 pages
- ISBN-10 : 095642810X
- ISBN-13 : 978-0956428103
- Item Weight : 8.6 ounces
- Dimensions : 6 x 0.38 x 9 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #307,266 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- Customer Reviews:
Top reviews from the United States
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I just read it again after 5 more years of climbing. In those 5 years, my improvements from “just climbing” plateaued. I’d flirted half-heartedly with the various training programs. In the last year I seriously began to ponder what I wanted my climbing to be, and how I wanted to organize my life for the long run to best incorporate climbing at a high level.
On this second reading, nearly every paragraph resonated. The old sleep inducing tome had transformed into a page turner. The insights stuck because, unlike in 2013, I’d now survived some of the battles Dave writes about. More important than just stating training tips, Dave lays out the approaches to a climbing life. And while I’d already pondered many aspects of this life, due to uncertainly and lack of direction, I previously had been afraid to fully embrace the patient, structured life and training philosophy Dave articulates.
As for the reviews which complain this book doesn't teach technique like body position, etc., no...this isn't that kind of book. If you have climbed only a year or so, this book might not click for you either. Not yet.
Thank you Dave for the great book and, more recently, the great YouTube videos. While I feel like I’d been slowly stumbling vaguely in the right direction, you handed me the detailed map I didn’t fully realize, until now, I needed.
I agree with the other reviewers that this is very much written in a 'concious streaming' style and more an essay than a book. I also agree that the absence of pictures or glossary of terms is wound wanting. What is a crimp vs. open handed? You shouldn't have to Google terms while reading a book.
Summarise the book:
Practise falling lots.
Don't think you can be a weekend warrior.
Let that demotivate you.
Get even more upset that your efforts in a climbing gym are a waste of time.
Get jealous you don't live next to the crag.
Wish you hadn't read the book and move on, or FAIL.
The downside to the book is that it's lacking an efficient ordering of sections and concepts. It comes off at times like a manuscript that he wrote in one or two sittings and then printed it without any editorial help. This, combined with the lack of any images to help reinforce some of the training concepts makes it kind of hard to use to find actionable techniques to incorporate into your training. If you're willing to put in the work there are some great things to use to improve your climbing, but unfortunately I think most people will quickly lose interest in this style and won't get the full benefit of his ideas.
I think it would be great if he could get an editor to run through this and give him some notes as to how and organize chapters and sub-chapters to make using the book more efficient. If that happened this would get at least 4 if not 5 stars in my opinion.
Top reviews from other countries
I really like Dave and his Youtube videos but this is a big let down. If I hadn't folded corners of pages I'd be returning
Dave MacLeod is a straight talking no nonsense writer and I love that he helps you identify your weaknesses and feel positive about tackling them.