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PANASONIC LUMIX G II LENS, 20MM, F1.7 ASPH, MIRRORLESS MICRO FOUR THIRDS, H-H020AK (USA BLACK)
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- 20mm focal length, equivalent to 40mm on a 35mm film camera
- Closest Focusing Distance : 0.2m / 0.66ft, Maximum magnification Approx. 0.13x / 0.25x (35mm camera equivalent)
- F1.7 brightness for beautiful, soft focus, Comprised of seven lenses in five groups
- Used with Lumix G Micro System Cameras, allows for use of the advanced contrast Auto Focus (AF) system
- Lens not Zoomable
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|Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping|
|Compatible Camera Mount||Micro Four Thirds||Olympus/Panasonic Micro 4/3||Micro Four Thirds||Micro Four Thirds||—||Micro Four Thirds|
|Focus Type||Micromotor||auto-focus||Micromotor||Micromotor||—||Stepper motor|
|Item Dimensions||1.02 x 2.48 x 2.48 in||3.23 x 3.23 x 4.41 in||1.42 x 2.28 x 2.28 in||2.17 x 2.48 x 2.48 in||—||1.42 x 2.28 x 2.28 in|
|Item Weight||3.07 ounces||7.84 ounces||—||7.05 ounces||0.67 lb||4.06 ounces|
|Lens Type||Prime lens||all-in-one-zoom||Prime lens||Prime lens||Zoom||Prime lens|
|Maximum Focal Length||20 millimeters||25 millimeters||17 millimeters||25 millimeters||35 millimeters||15 millimeters|
|Minimum Focal Length||20 millimeters||25 millimeters||17 millimeters||25 millimeters||12 millimeters||15 millimeters|
|Photo Filter Thread Size||46 millimeters||—||46 millimeters||46 millimeters||58 millimeters||46 millimeters|
20mm focal length, equivalent to 40mm on a 35mm film camera F1.7 brightness for beautiful, soft focus Comprised of seven lenses in five groups Used with Lumix G Micro System Cameras, allows for use of the advanced contrast Auto Focus (AF) system
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I've been using this lens for about a year now and have absolutelyy fallen in love with it’s image quality and size.
And if you haven’t seen it yet guys, make sure to check out my top 5 best value micro fours thirds lenses list. I’ll put a link in the description box below so go and check it out.
Let’s first take a look at the build quality of this lens.
When you first pick up the panasonic 20mm 1.7, you’ll definitely notice just how small it is. Even though the lens does have a very wide 1.7 aperture, Panasonic has been able to keep it down to a tiny size.
There’s not a whole lot of plastic on this lens either, with a metallic body and metal mount on the rear, it does feel like it’s going to hold up well to years of use.
On the front we have a beautiful focus ring which is incredibly smooth to turn. I really love it. There's no image stabilisation on the lens or a manual focus switch, but that's because it's actually got full time manual focus, which is a nice touch.
Before I used the 20mm 1.7, my favorite focal lensht was a 50mm on a full frame body. But that's all changed now and it’s now 20mm. That equates to about 40mm on these bodies and it's a great field of view for most shots.
Just so you can get an idea of what that focal length is. Here what 20mm looks like. And just for comparison, this is what 12mm looks like on a micro four thirds body and here is what 32mm looks like.
So for me, it's a very happy medium at 20.
Let's now talk about bokeh, or the background blur behind your subject.
Before I found this lens, I never thoguht that you could get such shallow depths of field with a) such a small lens, b) a wide-ish angle of 20mm and c) on a small micro four thirds camera. But as you can see, I was wrong.
I've had such a blast shooting with this lens, as it produces some stunning bokeh. It's creamy, it's smooth and it's not distracting.
Not only that, even at wide apertures the shots are still tack sharp and you're still getting some lovely bokeh. I've very impressed
The 20mm 1.7 has a minimum focusing distance of around 20cm, which isn't the closest focusing lens you'll find.
That's not to say you can't get some nice detailed shots with it, as you can see here, as we zoom in to 100%.
But it's definitely not a dedicated macro lens.
Now one of the biggest issues people have had with this lens is it's autofocus speed, and you know what, I havent had any issues with it.
I've consistenly found the 20 1.7 to have very good autofocus speed at all apertures, comparable to my dslr with a similar lens.
The only time I'd ever have any problems withe autofocus is in very low light conditions, and then i'd simply switch to manual focus, no biggie for me.
So if you’re worried about all of the autofocus probelms you read online, I'd forget it, it's a great focusing lens especially for its size.
Yes, actually. Camera bodies got better, with better interfaces, better focusing systems, better touch screens, etc. So even though this lens is the same lens as it always was, now it's a better lens because it's part of a better system, and I feel pretty comfortable saying it's now a 5-star lens for 90% of situations, whereas maybe before, I did not feel it deserved 5 stars.
This lens is still what it always was, and that's what's so wonderful about it. It's a very compact, inexpensive prime with SUPERB image quality. I think just about everyone agrees that this lens takes a better quality picture than any wide to normal MFT lens under a grand. Not only that, 20mm is a superb one-size-fits-all focal length, useful for street shooting, environmental portraits, group shots, even selfies (where the light weight is useful). It might be the most versatile focal length for someone who is primarily a night time shooter like myself.
And this lens, it just oozes vibe, it just has mojo. There's real soul to this lens. I can't explain it, but the first time you nail that street night shot with this lens, you'll know what I'm talking about. It's sharp, yet flattering to people. It makes dull pictures look just a bit more interesting, and it makes good pictures look great. The Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 also does that, of course, but this lens has that vibe for less money in a smaller lens with a wider field of view.
But you have to use it properly. You have to give it something to focus on. You can't let it hunt because it will never finish hunting. But with a modern MFT body (esp. a Panasonic with DFD), that's not hard. You can use the touchscreen or use buttons to make sure you're giving a good AF point. If you're the kind of person who lets the camera pick a focusing point all the time, don't get this lens. But then again, I would argue that one should be carefully focusing every shot at f/1.7.
So, if you are ready to give your camera something to focus for every picture you take, then try this lens. Notice I said nothing about still life vs. action. You can take action shots with this lens. But you have to select a good AF box for every single shot, and if you slightly miss it and the lens starts hunting, pick a better AF point and try again. Yes, you might miss a couple of shots with this lens that you might not have missed with a faster focusing lens. But aside from a black cat running back and forth in a dark room, you should be fine if you're picking a good AF point for every single picture. Practice with it. The first time you shoot a concert with it, expect to miss some shots. But you'll get better, and the bouncer who turns away other "professional cameras" will probably not even realize what a monster you have with the 20mm.
There are situations where this lens will not be so great, but you'll quickly learn what they are:
1) Video where you need the on-camera audio to be clean, because yes, this lens talks a bit. Of course, in a loud setting like a rock concert, AF noises are pretty minimal compared to other sounds.
2) C-AF. It can't do it. But on the other hand, what exactly would you have been doing with C-AF at 20mm anyway? Shooting basketball? You can fire off a burst in S-AF just fine at 20mm, where you're so far from the action that the depth of field is so deep, so a series of photos is highly unlikely to require refocusing. For video, C-AF in MFT is awful anyway, so just go manual or S-AF.
3) Trying to shoot scenes with minimal contrast. Thing is, though, unless it's an action scene, you can wait for the picture to get taken. But I guess some toddlers don't really wait around.
4) Handing off the camera to someone who is bad at cameras. But lately, this is less of an issue. Set it to touchscreen shutter, and tell them to touch the face on the LCD. Almost anyone can do that these days.
5) You want reasonably fast focus on an older MFT camera.
If any of these points are deal breakers, just skip this lens and go to the Olympus 17mm f/1.8. However, I think a better idea is to spend the same money on a cheap used body + this 20mm f/1.7 because I think the picture is better. Plus, with all these other lenses out there where you can go crazy, I think this tiny, cheap, and superb lens is more important than ever to the Micro Four Thirds system. It's cheap enough that it doesn't have to be your only lens, so you can have other lenses that cover its weaknesses. This by itself makes a pretty decent kit. This + a kit zoom can make a good kit. This + any of the great MFT lenses out there (zoom or prime) can make a great kit.
To summarize, don't get this lens if you have no desire to develop good habits for photography. But take care of your 20mm, and it will take care of you.