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PORTER-CABLE PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin Nailer

4.5 out of 5 stars 145 customer reviews
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Price: $99.99 & FREE Shipping. Details
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  • The product is Pin Nailer Kit
  • Easy to use
  • The product is manufactured in China
  • Uses 23 ga. micro pin nails from 1/2-inch to 1-inch long similar to Senco models
  • Tool automatically adjusts for different fastener lengths for esier loading
  • Convenient bottom-load magazine holds 170 micro pin nails
  • Dual trigger feature
  • Low nail reload indicator; Rubber comfort grip on tool handle
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Frequently Bought Together

  • PORTER-CABLE PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin Nailer
  • +
  • PORTER-CABLE PN23Pp 23 Gauge Pin Nail Project Pack
Total price: $109.00
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Product Description

Product Description

The product is Pin Nailer Kit. Easy to use. The product is manufactured in China.

Amazon.com

The Porter-Cable PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin Nailer takes care of all of your finishing projects, such as crown molding and other molding, and does it quickly and efficiently. It uses a dual trigger feature to fire the 23-gauge micro pin nails from the 170 pin bottom load magazine. This smart pin nailer even recognizes the length of the nail and automatically adjusts accordingly. The rubber comfort grip ensures hours of easy operation.

Product Information

Technical Details

Part Number PIN100
Item Weight 4.2 pounds
Product Dimensions 10.4 x 12.9 x 2.9 inches
California residents Click here for Proposition 65 warning
Item model number PIN100
Power Source air-powered
Item Package Quantity 1
Included Components bare-tool
Warranty Description 1 Year Limited

Additional Information

ASIN B00006411F
Customer Reviews
4.5 out of 5 stars 145 customer reviews

4.5 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank #124,082 in Home Improvements (See top 100)
#14 in Home Improvement > Power & Hand Tools > Power Tools > Nailers & Staplers > Nailers > Pinners
Shipping Weight 4.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Domestic Shipping This item is also available for shipping to select countries outside the U.S.
International Shipping This item is not eligible for international shipping. Learn More
Date First Available June 22, 2008

Warranty & Support

Manufacturer’s warranty can be requested from customer service. Click here to make a request to customer service.

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Customer Questions & Answers

Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

By Bob Feeser TOP 1000 REVIEWERVINE VOICE on February 11, 2004
At first I was hesitant to buy the PC PIN100. The reviews were the core of my concern. Does it leave a dent in the work? Will it quickly malfunction? Is the pin visible? Is it a quality tool, or a piece of junk?
I took it out of the carrying case, and the clear plastic wrap, and immediately put 5 drops of the oil that comes in the kit, in the air nozzle. I wanted to ward off any jamming problems.
Upon loading the nails, I noticed that there were multiple arrows printed on the side of the nail strip. That way you would load them in the right direction. If you ignored the arrows, and loaded them upside down, which is possible considering the small size of the pins, the sharp, fine, thin tip would be up, to do battle with the hammer coming down. Certainly, it would veer off to one side, thereby freezing the hammer and pin. In addition that kind of action could score the shaft, and that would lead to other possible misfires. People reporting problems with jams could have done just that.

The top of the pin has a blunt-flat end on it, and the business end is sharp. Since they are so tiny, if you don't notice the arrows on the side, it is easy to load them upside down.
These pins are not serrated, or ring shanked, but rather smooth on the sides. That way they don't receive resistance on the way down. Important considering their fine size.
I was able to take the 3/4" pins, that come with the kit, and drive several into a 3/4" piece of oak, without any problems whatsoever. I first tested it out on a piece of scrap pine. Since I loaded the nailer with oil, it came out of the nose quite readily, which made a slight black mark where the pin went into the wood. Since the pine is very light, it showed. It was worth it, I wanted to break it in properly.
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On commercially made frame and panel doors you will notice two tiny little holes (that have been filled) on the back side of each joint. Even old dogs like me can learn a new trick once and awhile, and this struck me as a brilliant way of NOT being forced to wait for glue to set during the assembly process of frame and panel doors. My last project had 82 frame and panel doors and finished panels, and even gluing up two at a time in one set of clamps, I ran out of clamps pretty quick and then had to wait at least an hour prior to the assembly of more. My current project has 56 framed panels in 3/4" thick Western Red Cedar, Pine and Iroko so I decided to try a new way of assembly rather than play the waiting game. My PC pinner was purchased for just this purpose and I'm happy to report that this technique works like a charm and the glue joints remain tight while the glue sets AND the pin holes are truly "pin holes". On my current project the back-side of the panels is not visible so therefore I don't need to fill these holes, but on "good two side" projects these holes will not be an issue to fill.
The longer the panel sits in clamps the better chance the glue has to "grab". To facilitate this I used two sets of clamps. I glued and assembled one panel in the first set of clamps, fired 5/8" pins into the joints and let that sit while I assembled a second panel in the second set of clamps. The clamps pull the joint together and the 5/8" long pins perfectly "pin" the tenon in the joint and hold the frame together once released from the clamps.
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By accident, I managed to have an opportunity to compare both this abd the Senco pin nailer in close combat. Actually, the accident was one too many jams with the Senco when I was in an irritable mood, which became the occasion for returning the one and buying the Porter-Cable. The second time through, I knew I had done the right thing.

The project at hand required a lot of crawling around and under, and using several different lengths of pins. The PIN100 never jammed. In retrospect the only small irritations occurred before I got used to the trigger safety. Which insisted on doing what it was supposed to do - keeping me from pinning myself. This is a very light-weight, easy to work tool - perfect for hobbyists and for professionals.

The nail size adjustment is automatic, if you follow the instructions. One thing to keep in mind is that the pins get driven below the surface only erratically. But they never stopped above the surface either. But remember to work with the air at about 100 psi. I wound up taking a nail and grinding the tip a bit to sink the pins, and this worked fine. On dark wood or with some carefil placement, they pretty much disappear.

The best recommendation I can give is that I find myself reaching for the PIN100 a lot when I'm gluing up small joinery. It has saved me a lot of time and added an extra element of security. I think that if you try it, you will see what I mean.
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I just couldn't seem to get the thing to reliably set pins below the surface of the wood. At best, it would set them even with

the surface, leaving a nicely visible small shiny dot. At least 50% of the pins would stick up above the surface How much work is it to fix that sort of thing.

I tried it on walnut, pine, poplar, and white oak with only marginal differences between species. I ran the air pressure way up at the nailer with no success. Pin length did not seem to make a difference either (I shot quite a few 1" and 3/4" pins).

The only way I could get the thing to set the pins below the surface was to push the nose firmly into the wood. You guessed it, a noticable dimple from the pressure was the result.

So am I crazy to expect that I can gently place the nose of the nailer against the workpiece, shoot a pin that sets 1/32"+ below the surface, wipe some putty in, and then stand back to admire the work? Such a nailer must exist, but it isn't this one.
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