CHOKING HAZARD -- Small parts. Not for children under 3 yrs.
Printrbot Assembled Metal Simple 3D Printer, Black, PLA Filament, 1.75mm Ubis Hot End, 6" x 6" x 6" Build Volume
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
There is a newer version of this item:
Specifications for this item
|Part Number||Assembled Printrbot Simple|
|Number of Items||1|
|Model Number||Printrbot Metal Simple ASM|
Customers who viewed this item also viewed
Customers also shopped for
Have a question?
Find answers in product info, Q&As, reviews
Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question.
The Printrbot Metal Simple fully assembled 3D fused-filament-fabrication printer has a black powder-coated all-metal construction with open platform for fabricating parts up to 6 x 6 x 6 inches (H x W x D) using 1.75-mm PLA thermoplastic filament (sold separately). The frame is made from steel and aluminum for durability, and it has a black powder-coated finish to protect against wear. The printer head moves on the Y (backward and forward) and Z (up and down) axes, while the print bed moves on the x (left to right) axis. The steel and aluminum print bed is warp resistant and includes an auto-leveling probe that works with the user-chosen computer software to provide a level print surface. The hot end has a maximum resolution of 100 microns and includes a fan to help solidify the molten filament as it is extruded onto the print bed. The printer uses open source software and connects to the computer using the included mini-USB cable. Using an SD card (sold separately), the printer can be disconnected from the computer after initialization for untethered printing during long print jobs.
The guide rails have a 12-mm diameter for stability and have linear bearings for smooth vertical movement of the print head. The GT2 belt and aluminum pulley system facilitates precise movement of the print head. The NEMA 17 stepper motor meets the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) standard ICS 16-2001. The printer includes a sample spool of PLA (polylactic acid) filament.
|Compatible filament material||PLA|
|Filament size||1.75 mm|
|Maximum hot-end temperature||270 degrees C (518 degrees F)|
|Maximum resolution||100 microns|
|Maximum build volume||216 cubic inches|
|Maximum build dimensions||6 x 6 x 6 inches (H x W x D)*|
|Heated or ambient bed||Ambient|
|Connection||Micro-USB (included), SD card (sold separately)|
|Untethered printing||Yes. Requires SD card and computer hookup to start print job before untethering.|
|Supported operating system(s)||Windows, Mac, Linux|
|Software||Open Source. Repetier-host and Slic3r recommended.|
|Input format||Stl, G-code|
|Nozzle diameter||0.4 mm|
|Power requirements||12V (60 watt) laptop power supply|
|Overall dimensions||15 x 11 x 12.5 inches (H x W x D)*|
*H is height, the vertical distance from the lowest to highest point; W is width, the horizontal distance from left to right; D is depth, the horizontal distance from front to back.
Fused filament fabrication printers build prototypes and parts directly from computer-aided-design (CAD) data sources by stacking layers upon layers of molten material. The print material is provided in filament or wire form and is fed through an extruder within the print head, similar to how ink is used in a standard printer. A printer with a single extruder can print using one filament at a time; a printer with dual extruders can print with two different materials or colors at the same time. The thickness of the printed layers can be customized for each print, but the thinnest layer that a printer can lay is called its maximum resolution. Choosing to print using very thin layers will create parts with more detail, but will typically take longer to print. To lay the material in the correct way, the print head and bed typically move in a combination of X-axis (left and right), Y-axis (forward and backward), and Z-axis (up and down) movement.
Printrbot manufactures desktop 3D printers and accessories. The company is headquartered in Lincoln, CA.
What's in the Box?
- Printrbot Metal Simple 3D printer (assembled)
- 12V (60 watt) 5 amp laptop power supply
- Power cord (3-ft. length)
- Micro-USB cable (34-in. length)
- Sample spool of 1.75-mm PLA plastic filament
- (2) wood wrenches
- Auto-leveling spacer
Would you like to tell us about a lower price?
Top customer reviews
There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later.
Perhaps I'm lucky, but this thing has been working near perfectly from the moment I took it out of the box, with no additional calibration whatsoever. I simply plugged it in, followed the setup guide from the printrbot website, and started printing.
There are a few minor things to note: My printer was quite accurate right out of the box, but the calibration objects I print are off by about 0.5mm in various dimensions. At the moment I'm not printing anything that requires precision, but as I get more into it, I'll need to figure out how to fix this. Second, many of the online setup guides were written for the wooden printrbot that has a 100mm x 100mm bed. You'll need to change the settings in your software to 150mm x 150mm so that it fully uses the print bed. Third, just as a sidenote, the bottom of the printer has some rough metal on it and it can scrape your desk/table if you don't put something underneath it. Printrbot might consider putting rubber feet on the bottom in the future.
As a more general comment to those who have never used a 3D printer before: Know that they are more involved and require more babysitting than a "regular" printer (inkjet / laser). It will take some time to learn how to set this up, configure and calibrate it, and use it. However, once you're comfortable with it, printing is easy. (Also: Be sure to buy some blue painter's tape and cover the bed with it.)
Probably the most carefree consumer 3D printer on the market currently is the Ultimaker 2. But the price of $2500+ and long shipping times from Europe, as well as the closed (proprietary) nature of the extruder system made me decide to look for something else.
Printrbot Metal Simple satisfied all my criteria:
- Open Source design: Printrbot is part of the RepRap movement for open source printers. Which means there is a vibrant community with great support available. Also tons of upgrades available and ensured long term support. Replacement parts tend to be very affordable and readily available. The same parts are shared among multiple printers from different manufacturers for instance.
- Solid and simple design. Printrbot Simple Metal feels solid, there is no wiggle, the thing is built like a tank.
- Unbelievable Value. There aren't many printers that can compete with quality of the product and end results in this price range. It's just a perfect 3D printer to start your forae into 3D printing with.
- Easy calibration. Even when you change the brand of painters tape you're using to protect the bed the thickness might change and you need to calibrate your 3D printer again. Printrbot calibration is easy and quick. Thanks to the inclusion of the auto leveling probe. I am able to calibrate my printer accurately each time for consistent results. One of the other printers I was considering LulzBot TAZ could use this system. In the end it's another reason I decided to go with Printrbot instead.
- Available upgrades. Within the first hour of owning the printer I was printing its upgrades. It felt great! Visited thingiverse and printed a filament spool holder.
Printrbot isn't without its issues however. Missing features like a power switch, or a better placement of the connect cables, also an LED strip or a light on top of the extruder arm would have been nice. However these are all nice to haves and can easily be added on as part of the upgrade process. The important part is that Printrbot didn't skimp on essentials. The extruder, and the construction of the printer feels incredibly solid. And despite these shortcomings one still comes away with a feeling of getting an incredible bargain when using this 3D printer.
The printer has a heating bed upgrade available for $99. The bed upgrade also requires an upgraded power supply. But for me personally I only print PLA, and I really have no need for ABS or different types of materials. PLA is the easiest to work with and it just requires you find the right tape. I have great results with ProTapes Pro Scenic 714 Crepe Paper 2".
EDIT: Review after a few months of use.
I have been using the printer for the past 2 months, pretty much every day. Now that I have things "dialed in" it prints better than ever. I did run into a few issues along the way, so I will comment on these.
- Power supply. The power supply it ships with is a bit on the weak side. Mine actually failed, so I picked up a Supernight 12A 10A power supply to replace it with, which seems to be working great. Recommended upgrade for $15 bucks.
- I did have one partial clough, due to using low quality filament. To clear it I just upped the temp to about 210 C and ran the extruder through software to clear the hot end. Like with anything you have to use good filament, I have great results and no issues with Hatchbox filament sold here on Amazon so I am sticking to it for now.
- Octoprint. Highly recommend using Octoprint. Basically you just need a Raspberry Pi (any will do), a wifi dongle or ethernet connection to your network, and to install a web app called Octoprint. Octoprint acts as a 3D print server, it's easy to setup and very easy to use. Highly recommend it since it provides nice stats, and it allows you to manage your prints remotely via wireless connection. It also isn't dependant on your computer in case you have to reboot in a middle of a print.
Still think this is the best purchase one can make to get into 3D printing. I love my Printrbot Metal Simple! I have been so addicted to 3D printing that I am actually now building my own 2nd 3D printer. When it comes to price / performance / ease of operation, it's the best you can get.
Solid Construction. **Minus the Z Axis threaded rod. See Below.
Prints PLA like a flipping champ.
Relatively easy to troubleshoot issues
Good print resolution. **Over time decreases due to Z Axis Threaded rod. See below.
Can print at decent speeds
Not Enclosed - Allows you to easily access your prints while they are in the process of being printed.
Heat sock around the hot end FELL OFF during a print. That was a freaking mess and should not have happened. Fire hazard!
While 6x6x6 is a decent print size, I still feel like its not big enough especially for the cost. You can pick up a prusa i3 (knockoff) that has 1.5X the printable area for half the cost.
Repetitive sounds will annoy you or whom ever is in the room with you. Like your wife.
Not Enclosed - Prints would benefit from the increased temperature of an enclosed environment
You need to cover the print bed in painters tape. I understand this is a hobby and its gonna cost money to operate, but it would be nice to not have to buy an 8 dollar roll of tape every month. (Update 7/29/2016) A glass print bed and hairspray fixed this! Shoot for a 3mm (1/8") glass plate if you can! You'll need to modify your stuff a little bit, but the glass plate is worth it! Makes PLA stick like a flipping champ.
(Update 7/29/16) Over time the threaded rod starts to wobble and will cause Z-Bands in your print. Its especially noticeable at lower layer heights since there is nothing in place to hold the threaded rod still at the top of the threaded rod. Printing at higher resolutions, like .4 mm layer height and less, you'll end up running your print head right into the lower layers 'over flow'.When the Y-Axis Arm moves up, the z bands disappear because the Z threaded rod stabilizes due to the z nut moving up, holding the threaded rod in a more stable manner. You can print out a z axis stabilizer on Thingiverse as a 'solution'. Really though this could and should be fixed through a different coupler. Like a ridged or a spider coupler. Maybe even an all metal Z threaded rod stabilizer. Or both?
- Would be cool if Printrbot offered a Rasberry Pi print server with OctoPrint, but it'll be a cool project for me!
- Use caution when leaving this thing unattended, especially in the beginning. I left this to printer unattended and the Insulation sock for the ubis hot end fell off mid print and it coated the hot end in plastic. I was lucky and was able to get most of it off with a Dremel and save the hot end mostly.
- G-code has a learning curve.
Useful tools that you should have:
Sand paper - to clean up some of the prints
Some type of putty knife or razor blade to get prints off the table
Blue painters tape
Overall: Happy with the print size, speed and quality. Happy that I purchased it!