CHOKING HAZARD -- Small parts. Not for children under 3 yrs.
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Ranger Inkssentials Glossy Accents Precision Tip, 2-Ounce
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- An acid free, 3-D, clear gloss medium
- Use to brighten, add dimensions, and magnify
- Contains 2 ounces in a bottle with a precision tip
- Made in USA
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An acid free, 3-D, clear gloss medium. Use to brighten, add dimensions, and magnify. Place under embellishments to make them stick. Also place on top of embellishments to protect and add a glossy overlay. This package contains 2 ounces in a bottle with a precision tip. Made in USA.
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Takes about 24 hours to dry really well. As it dries, it does shrink down. So remember that if you are filling anything with it (like a bottle cap).
UPDATE: Amazon, where are the photos I posted? Many people have thanked me for those photos. They showed how this product looked on a finished project. It is a shame because they helped people know exactly what they could expect from this product. I won't be wasting my time posting any more pics for my reviews if you are just going to delete them. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words!
Some details about how I use it:
1) Clogging: To prevent the tip from clogging (which has never happened yet), I wipe the nozzle with a cleansing wipe (I use cleanwell wipes), then squeeze all the air out of the bottle before I tighten the cap over the nozzle and I try to store it upright, but even on its side I haven't had any issues yet.
2) Yellowing: I don't leave my bottles of GA out in front of a sunny window (they are stored in a dark cabinet), and I do the same for my jewelry when it's not being worn as a precaution. Nothing has yellowed in a year, will update if anything changes.
3) Bubbles and thick coats, doming, etc: Thin, glassy coats, medium, lacquery coats, and thick, domey-resin finishes all look lovely, and I've done all of them with GA. Squeeze the air out of the bottle before applying the GA to minimize bubbles, and if there are still some, they can be popped with a steel pin. For really deep bezels with high domed tops, I have found that multiple layers of GA (drying each in between) works. Applying a lot at once is faster but can cause multiple bubbles. Pouring it all at once without bubbles can be achieved if you pull out the fine tip nozzle and just pour straight from the open bottleneck. It'll have to dry overnight, but it'll be clear. Make sure drying jewelry is semi-covered in a dry, non-linty, non-windy corner.
4) Hardness: Yes, real epoxy finishes will be much harder, but this is non-toxic and has no fumes so I'm fine with that trade. Also, epoxy melts watercolor paper, and GA doesn't and so can be applied directly to paper without sealing. I've found that it gets harder the longer it's on something as it seems to "cure." Super thin layers or blobs on knots dry in minutes, thin to medium layers dry in a few hours, and super thick puddles in a bezel dry overnight. I don't stack my GA faux resin pieces in a scratchy pile in my jewelry box, but otherwise I treat them like other jewelry and have noticed no dents and few scratches. I also have wiped down jewelry with dried GA used in or on it with a cleanwell wipe (I like to clean my jewelry of lotion residue and germs before putting it away) without any issues. Have not used alcohol or lysol wipes on GA or other jewelry, and wouldn't recommend it.
5) Bleeding paint: Sometimes water-soluble inks or watercolors can reactivate when a glue or finish with water is applied over them. To prevent this, I apply a very thin layer of mod podge paper matte over the paper piece inside the bezel before pouring GA over it if I am worried about bleeding. A really thin layer of ranger matte multi-medium can also be used. Most times I skip this (mostly due to laziness) and just put a super thin layer of GA over the piece and let sit for 15 min before pouring a lot more of GA over a piece to create a resin look. For staining inks and watercolors, I skip even that, and have had no bleeding issues.
6) Removal: Real epoxy is pretty damn permanent, which is a good thing in some cases, but I've found if I don't like a piece of jewelry that I've made in a faux resin/epoxy style with GA, I can soak it in water for 2 days and then pry out the GA in a solid glob from the metal bezel with a pin and try again. Of course, the paper painting or other soft material is also lost when soaking in water, but you have your bezel and gems, stones, or crystals back for a fresh start. I could never do this with real epoxy--the metal bezels and stones would have to tossed out if a project was a failure. While GA is wet, you can also wipe off a spillover with a wet wipe on jewelry pieces or your desk.
7) Apart from faux resin or dimensional gloss looks, I have also used GA as a strong jewelry glue as well as for embedding stones and gems and crystals and silver wire, and again it holds really well and gives a great "floating in glass" look. See attached for some images!