|Item Weight||18.96 pounds|
|Package Dimensions||36.8 x 13.4 x 11.4 inches|
|Item model number||11909ABMI|
|Manufacturer Part Number||11909ABMI|
RhinoGear 11909ABMI RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp - Set of 2 (12,000lb. GVW Capacity)
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- Portable automotive ramps with a rugged and structural design
- Provides reliable and convenient access to the underside of your vehicle as well as nestability for maximum storage space
- CoreTRAC non-skid base and tread pattern helps reduce slippage
- 17 degree incline provides easy use for low clearance vehicles
- 12,000 pound GVW (gross vehicle weight) capacity and for use with tires 9" in width
|What you need to know – This product has a serial number that uniquely identifies the item. When your order ships, Amazon will scan the serial number and add it to the history of the order. Should the item go missing before it arrives, Amazon may register the serial number with loss and theft databases to prevent fraudulent use or resale of the item. There is no action required from you and the serial number will only be used to prevent fraudulent activity associated with the missing item.|
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RhinoGear's sturdy, durable RhinoRamps allow for reliable and convenient access to the underside of your vehicle. Patented polymer internal support system and wide stance offer excellent weight distribution and unbeatable strength. The innovative CoreTRAC non-skid base helps reduce slippage while the 17 degree incline provides easy use for low clearance vehicles. These portable automotive ramps are great for cars, trucks, pickups, sport utility vehicles, and vans. 12K RhinoRamps patented structural design combined with heavy duty resin material makes them "strong as steel".
From the manufacturer
FLOTOOL RHINORAMPS - 11912ABMI - 16,000 lb. GVW
Lifting DIY oil change to the highest standard.
- Strong as steel: the only ‘P.A.L.D.’ certiﬁed resin ramps.
- Extra-wide tire width for supreme conﬁdence.
- 17 degree angle for low clearance vehicles.
- Proper use guidelines must be followed (see ‘warning statement’ among images above).
Core-Trac non-skid feet reduce sliding during use while an improved tread pattern and wide design make these the most secure ramps on the market.
The only resin ramp that meets and exceeds P.A.L.D. (Portable Automotive Lifting Device) standards.
Space saving design for efficient storage.
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I know people say, "just use jack stands too," but that is not always practical. On a driveway with a slight incline, jack stands are not safe, but ramps are fine.
Wood ramps are heavy and you really can't build them for $2, but you can build them for $30. 6" (4 levels) is sufficient. I used a combination of 2" x 8" and 2" x 4". If I redid them I would use three parallel sets of 2" x 4" boards since 2" x 4" are usually the cheapest. I also beveled the edges 45 degrees though this was unnecessary.
The pebble gravel at my house might not provide a stable base for some devices. I put the Rhino Ramps on the gravel, backed my car onto them, set the brake, and shoved the back of the car sideways. The only movement was from the flexing of the tires. That satisfied me. Under that load, I didn’t need plywood to support Rhino Ramps.
Kissing the stops
At the back of one ramp, the base had dug into the gravel slightly. The other end of the ramp was now about 1/2” off the ground. There’s a stop 2-1/2” high at the back of the ramp. My tire must have hit it hard enough to cause the ramp to rock back. That kind of thing might be the usual cause of collapses.
I’d overlooked the instruction to press the ramps against the tires. They’d been slightly uneven so that one ramp had borne the brunt of stopping the vehicle.
There’s a 1/4” lip at the top of the slope. From there, it’s 12” farther to the stop. Now I saw that Rhino Ramps didn’t allow 12” to stop. The stops are high enough that my tires hit them 6” after the lip.
Raising a truck on steel ramps, stopping in 6” had been easy because the truck would creep up the ramp in low range. My car has no low range. Precisely controlling its speed by feel was a challenge. If I reached the top at 1 mph, I’d hit the stop 1/3 second later. That wasn’t enough time to move my foot from the gas to the brake.
I put a strip of masking tape across the sill of the driver’s doorway and another strip across the lid of a coffee can. With the ramps positioned, I measured 26” from the center of the wheel to the top of the slope. I put the coffee can beside the car with the tape 26” behind the tape on the door sill. Backing up the ramps, I let the car come almost to a stop as the strips met. I didn’t use the brake to stop because it could do more harm than good. Afterward, there was no mark on the gravel where the ramps had been.
Most of those who demonstrated Rhino Ramps on youtube were excellent drivers. One, however, hit the stops hard enough to skid the ramps on concrete. He rocked them when he demonstrated them on asphalt. “There, but for the Grace of God, go I.”
I’ll be using these ramps more for my riding mower than my car. By backing it onto the ramps and raising the front with a floor jack, I can quickly have the skirt of the deck 10” off the ground. That’s high enough to remove all caked grass in a jiffy with a Wonder Bar. With most of the weight on the back wheels, it’s stable (as long as I set the brake).
This also makes it easy to check blades, remove them for sharpening, and grease spindles. I can lower the deck farther than is possible on the ground. That makes it easy to remove debris and lubricate.
#1 When getting under an elevated vehicle, never trust the elevating mechanism alone. Never get under the car with just ramps or especially a hydraulic jack. If you do that, you are asking to get crushed. Always use jack stands in addition to the elevating mechanism.
#2, always chock the rear wheels