|Item Weight||19.18 pounds|
|Package Dimensions||37 x 13.4 x 11.2 inches|
|Item model number||11909ABMI|
|Manufacturer Part Number||11909ABMI|
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RhinoGear 11909ABMI RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp - Set of 2 (12,000lb. GVW Capacity)
|You Save:||$2.00 (6%)|
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- Portable automotive ramps with a rugged and structural design
- Provides reliable and convenient access to the underside of your vehicle as well as nestability for maximum storage space
- CoreTRAC non-skid base and tread pattern helps reduce slippage
- 17 degree incline provides easy use for low clearance vehicles
- 12,000 pound GVW (gross vehicle weight) capacity and for use with tires 9" in width
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RhinoGear's sturdy, durable RhinoRamps allow for reliable and convenient access to the underside of your vehicle. Patented polymer internal support system and wide stance offer excellent weight distribution and unbeatable strength. The innovative CoreTRAC non-skid base helps reduce slippage while the 17 degree incline provides easy use for low clearance vehicles. These portable automotive ramps are great for cars, trucks, pickups, sport utility vehicles, and vans. 12K RhinoRamps patented structural design combined with heavy duty resin material makes them "strong as steel".
From the manufacturer
FLOTOOL RHINORAMPS - 11912ABMI - 16,000 lb. GVW
Lifting DIY oil change to the highest standard.
- Strong as steel: the only ‘P.A.L.D.’ certiﬁed resin ramps.
- Extra-wide tire width for supreme conﬁdence.
- 17 degree angle for low clearance vehicles.
- Proper use guidelines must be followed (see ‘warning statement’ among images above).
Core-Trac non-skid feet reduce sliding during use while an improved tread pattern and wide design make these the most secure ramps on the market.
The only resin ramp that meets and exceeds P.A.L.D. (Portable Automotive Lifting Device) standards.
Space saving design for efficient storage.
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I know people say, "just use jack stands too," but that is not always practical. On a driveway with a slight incline, jack stands are not safe, but ramps are fine.
Wood ramps are heavy and you really can't build them for $2, but you can build them for $30. 6" (4 levels) is sufficient. I used a combination of 2" x 8" and 2" x 4". If I redid them I would use three parallel sets of 2" x 4" boards since 2" x 4" are usually the cheapest. I also beveled the edges 45 degrees though this was unnecessary.
#1 When getting under an elevated vehicle, never trust the elevating mechanism alone. Never get under the car with just ramps or especially a hydraulic jack. If you do that, you are asking to get crushed. Always use jack stands in addition to the elevating mechanism.
#2, always chock the rear wheels
1. Always use on a flat stable surface! No gravel or dirt. If you attempt to use these on a non-stable surface they will break. This is also included on the warning label.
2. Have someone else spot you as you drive up. This will ensure you are driving straight up and the tires are fully on, and you won't drive off.
3. If used properly these will hold on their own, but it's always good practice to use jack stands as a backup just in case.
I have had my Lexus CT on the ramp, Ford Explorer, and Saturn Sky all different tire sizes and weights. No cracks.
PLEASE: Always have wheel chocks on the set of tires not on the ramp. To prevent any rolling of any sort.
Lots of folks seem to have good luck with this product. But don't trust your life to them. ALWAYS make sure to put a jack stand underneath too.
At most lumber stores, they have an area for lumber that is not usable for building purposes due to damage, checking, twisting, etc. At my local big Orange store, I found a 14 foot 2X8 that was warped but otherwise in good condition. Price: $2.00. I had them cut it into two pieces each of the following lengths: 33", 27", 21" and 2.5". Back at home I got myself a cold beverage, then I laid out one 33" piece, then laid a 27" piece on top of it and butted the near ends flush. Using some 2.5 inch exterior grade screws in each corner of the 27" piece I screwed them together. I then laid a 21" piece on top of the 27" piece and again butted the near ends flush and screwed them together, being careful to drive the screws so they didn't hit the screws underneath. I then laid the 2.5 inch piece on the 21" piece and butted the near ends flush. I drilled holes in these prior to attaching with screws to prevent them from cracking. Grab another cold beverage, and repeat the procedure for the second ramp and viola - solid, dependable ramps that won't ever collapse for two dollars! Celebrate with a cold beverage! If you want to go all out and spend four dollars, you could add another level (mine are 5.25" high) and/or lengthen the bottom piece by six inches, and then move the 27" piece back six inches from being flush, which would make a more stable base should you ever accidentally drive too far forward on them. You could also experiment with different lengths so that they would nest together when one is flipped on top of the other. I just put eye hooks in the end of each of them and hung them from a nail for storage.