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Riding the Iron Rooster: By Train Through China Paperback – December 8, 2006
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Paul Theroux, the author of the train travel classics The Great Railway Bazaar and The Old Patagonian Express, takes to the rails once again in this account of his epic journey through China. He hops aboard as part of a tour group in London and sets out for China's border. He then spends a year traversing the country, where he pieces together a fascinating snapshot of a unique moment in history. From the barren deserts of Xinjiang to the ice forests of Manchuria, from the dense metropolises of Shanghai, Beijing, and Canton to the dry hills of Tibet, Theroux offers an unforgettable portrait of a magnificent land and an extraordinary people.
- Print length480 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherMariner Books
- Publication dateDecember 8, 2006
- Dimensions5.5 x 1.19 x 8.25 inches
- ISBN-100618658971
- ISBN-13978-0618658978
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Editorial Reviews
Review
"[Theroux's] books have enriched the travel literature of this century...China, with its guard down, its buttons undone, and its fingers greasy, looks even more magical with a little of its mystery revealed." USA Today
"[A] very funny, beautifully written, wonderfully observant, and deeply insightful description of the vagaries of life and politics in China." -- Conde Nast Traveler
"Fascinating...the portrait that emerges is a luminous, almost uncanny, and situationally accurate one. Theroux is particularly good at catching the surreal quality of China." The Miami Herald
"Theroux's genius is in his clear-eyed rendition of a fresh world and the deeper observations he attaches to it." The Chicago Tribune —
About the Author
PAUL THEROUX is the author of many highly acclaimed books. His novels include The Bad Angel Brothers, The Lower River, Jungle Lovers, and The Mosquito Coast, and his renowned travel books include Ghost Train to the Eastern Star and Dark Star Safari. He lives in Hawaii and on Cape Cod.
Product details
- Publisher : Mariner Books; First Edition (December 8, 2006)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 480 pages
- ISBN-10 : 0618658971
- ISBN-13 : 978-0618658978
- Item Weight : 1.06 pounds
- Dimensions : 5.5 x 1.19 x 8.25 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #932,649 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #483 in General Asia Travel Books
- #1,497 in Travel Writing Reference
- #3,004 in Travelogues & Travel Essays
- Customer Reviews:
About the author

Paul Theroux was born and educated in the United States. After graduating from university in 1963, he travelled first to Italy and then to Africa, where he worked as a Peace Corps teacher at a bush school in Malawi, and as a lecturer at Makerere University in Uganda. In 1968 he joined the University of Singapore and taught in the Department of English for three years. Throughout this time he was publishing short stories and journalism, and wrote a number of novels. Among these were Fong and the Indians, Girls at Play and Jungle Lovers, all of which appear in one volume, On the Edge of the Great Rift (Penguin, 1996).
In the early 1970s Paul Theroux moved with his wife and two children to Dorset, where he wrote Saint Jack, and then on to London. He was a resident in Britain for a total of seventeen years. In this time he wrote a dozen volumes of highly praised fiction and a number of successful travel books, from which a selection of writings were taken to compile his book Travelling the World (Penguin, 1992). Paul Theroux has now returned to the United States, but he continues to travel widely.
Paul Theroux's many books include Picture Palace, which won the 1978 Whitbread Literary Award; The Mosquito Coast, which was the 1981 Yorkshire Post Novel of the Year and joint winner of the James Tait Black Memorial Prize, and was also made into a feature film; Riding the Iron Rooster, which won the 1988 Thomas Cook Travel Book Award; The Pillars of Hercules, shortlisted for the 1996 Thomas Cook Travel Book Award; My Other Life: A Novel, Kowloon Tong, Sir Vidia's Shadow, Fresh-air Fiend and Hotel Honolulu. Blindness is his latest novel. Most of his books are published by Penguin.
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However, as the title indicates, these oases of fascinating accounts are often littered with somewhat dull accounts that made the book feel too long (in fact at nearly 500 pages for the paperback version, I might argue it WAS too long). Some parts dragged and at that point I would check what percentage I was finished (read it on Kindle) and couldn't believe how long it took to progress even 1%. I found myself doing a skimming/skipping combo at these parts. Particularly from about halfway through the book until the concluding Tibet part it seemed to take a long time. On that, the concluding part on getting to Tibet and Tibet itself was one of the more interesting parts, and probably saved this from being a two-star review.
Also, maps should have been added to the book. It became very confusing to understand where he was journeying which may have defused the ability to imagine yourself riding and experiencing 1980s China with him. Perhaps there is a map in the paper copy, but in the Kindle version, no such map is readily accessible. This could be one of the reasons that it seemed to drag at parts; you start to get the "why should I care?" feeling about the writing.
People particularly interested in China - particularly a close-up, qualitative, at times very humorous look at Chinese society during the transition period of agricultural collective to the economic powerhouse - will perhaps enjoy this more relaxed account of a foreigner traveling in China as it is. But there are other books you should probably read first if you want something a little more serious (for example "My First Trip to China: Scholars, Diplomats and Journalists Reflect on their First Encounters with China").
For people with just a mere passing interest in China, it is too bad there is not an edited-down 200-300 page version. That would be more enjoyable. In its current state, I would say skip it or be prepared to skip parts.
The NY Times said: "Riding the Iron Rooster'' is Mr. Theroux's account of a journey that would drive most people insane." Glad he took and I can read about it.
Theroux passes through the most significant regions of China; his descriptions, particularly of his fellow passengers will delight some and almost anger others. As any readers to Theroux's books know he does not query his verbiage when describing the people in whose country he is passing through. He is at his best when describing the passengers with whom he must share his cabin or his dining room car.
The reader cannot but realise that Theroux is confronted frequently by references to the Cultural Revolution and Mao's death throughout the journey in China; both of these tumultuous events had occurred in resent Chinese history. He makes no apologies for his distaste of both; they form a stage curtin for his entire journey.
Consequently I found his descriptions of his final destination, Tibet, to be sweet, dare I say when dealing with Teroux's written language virtually beautiful to the extent you might need to return to the passages for a re-read. This Theroux book is worth putting aside, leaving for some years anthem returning; it is that good
My only beef is that in the Kindle edition I am reading, there are so many spelling errors!! It’s quite distracting.
Top reviews from other countries
The book is very well written. The descriptions of places and people are excellent. The conversations he has with fellow passengers, and with others such as officials assigned to 'help him', give the book real depth.
Sometimes he is a bit repetitive but rarely boring and very amusing at times. In this day of photos, selfies etc etc it is refreshing to read a book which is so descriptive that it was only near the end that I realised I could 'see' China and didn't need any photographs. I highly recommend it. But maybe I will have to edit these comments after having been there myself.
The book is about Mr Theroux’s long trip through China by train in the 1980s.
As ever, Paul Theroux really delivers in this book. His dry, witty style makes even mundane events entertaining. It is a real ‘page-turner’ and I very much enjoyed reading it. I also feel that in spite of the fact that China is a totally different country today compared to the 1980s, the traveller can still take a lot from this book. It surely still ranks up there as one of the best travel books on China.
I would recommend this to anybody who likes travel writing, especially those people who have or are planning to visit China.











