- Headlock System: Allows quick change of print head; automatic head recognition; auto-leveling system; future upgrade compatible interface
- Quick Fill Dual Nozzle Technology: Detailed perimeter nozzle (0.3mm); Fast infill nozzle (0.8mm); Needle-valve flow control
- Smart Reel System: Automatic material recognition; Rewriteable EEPROM stores material data; wide range of materials and colors available
- Smart Extruder System: Supports single or dual extruders; Fully automatic material loading/unloading; Closed Feedback error detection
- Automaker Software: East to use interface; real-time printing status; supports pause and resume printing; support for multiple printers/projects
Robox 3D Printer, Dual Extruder, High Definition
|Price:||$999.00 & FREE Shipping. Details|
|You Save:||$500.00 (33%)|
Specifications for this item
|Number of Items||1|
|Specification Met||certified frustration-free|
|Material||PLA , ABS , HIPS , Nylon , PC , PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)|
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From the manufacturer
Robox is much more than just a 3D printer.
The Robox is not just a 3D Printer.
Featuring the HeadLock system, the Robox is capable of operating with multiple heads. Users will have the opportunity to upgrade their Robox to become a dual material printer, stylus cutter, milling head or 3D scanner.
- Dual color print head and scanning head to be available soon
Robox 3D Printer
Desktop Manufacturing Platform
We’re special and we’re going to stay special.
We design products to help make jobs easier and a bit more fun. If you can think it, you can print it.
Need support or have questions? Call our helpline.
- Automatic Build Platform Levelling
- Separate Build Chamber and Electronics Enclosure
- Pause and Resume
- Nozzle Valve System to eliminate oozing
- Speed – Dual Nozzle System
- Large High Torque Stepper Motors with High Resolution Axes
- High quality Frame and Case Design
Robox Key Features
Dual Nozzle System
Robox includes a proprietary dual-nozzle system which can improve print speeds by up to 300% when set against our competitors. A single material feed can be directed out of one of two nozzles - with a 0.3 or 0.8 millimeter extrusion diameter. This means Robox can produce highly detailed exterior surfaces for the surfaces you can see, and then quickly fill the object using the larger nozzle multiple layers at a time without affecting part strength or detail.
Automatic Build Platform Levelling
One of the major problems with almost all available 3D printers is that the bed must be manually leveled to ensure the first layer adheres correctly. This is be a fiddly process which has to be regularly repeated – a source of frustration for other 3D printer owners. Well, we’ve solved that. Robox uses a proprietary bed probing mechanism which can measures the location of the bed before every print. As both Z motors are driven independently they can be adjusted to ensure the X axis is always parallel to the print bed.
AutoMaker is the software used to layout your models, view the status of Robox and adjust the settings used during a printing or other operations. AutoMaker is available to download and can be installed in most languages on many operating systems including Windows, MacOS and Linux. Our default settings are tried and tested using our filament and allow even a complete novice user to get a repeatable and consistent result every time.
Robox materials are supplied on a SmartReel which holds data about temperature settings, print speed, diameter and even the amount of filament which has been used on that reel. Users can print in PLA, ABS, HIPS, Nylon, PC and PVA but we are constantly testing more materials.
|External Dimensions||370 x 340 x 240mm (14.5 x 13.4 x 9.4")||258 x 258 x 440mm (10.1 x 10.1 x 17.3")||440 x 279 x 330mm (16 x 11 x 13")||260 x 260 x 340mm (10 x 10 x 13") + Reel||490 x 420 x 531mm (19.1 x 16.5 x 20.9")|
|Build Volume||210 x 150 x 100mm (8.3 x 5.9 x 3.9")||150 x 100 x 120mm (5.9 x 3.9 x 5.9")||150 x 150 x 150mm (5.9 x 5.9 x 5.9")||140 x 140 x 140mm (5.5 x 5.5 x 5.5")||246 x 152 x 155mm (9.7 x 6.0 x 6.1")|
|Best Layer Resolution||20 microns||100 microns||50 microns||200 microns||100 microns|
|Extruder Support||Single / Dual||Single||Single / Dual||Single||Dual|
|Nozzle Diameter(s)||0.3mm and 0.8mm (0.012" and 0.031")||0.4mm (0.015")||0.35mm (0.014")||0.4mm (0.015")||0.4mm (0.015")|
|Automatic Bed Levelling||✔||✔|
|Pause / Resume Prints||✔||✔|
|Replaceable Print Head||✔|
|Material Compatibility||PLA, ABS, HIPS, Nylon, PC, PVA||PLA||PLA, ABS, PVA||PLA, ABS||PLA, ABS|
|Software||Robox AutoMaker||Based on Octoprint||Based on Meshlab/Slic3r||Cube Software||MakerWare|
See what people are creating with the best 3D printer on the market - Robox
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3D T-Rex Shower Head
Who doesn't want to wake up to a Rawr-ing shower? The possibilities with Robox are endless! Printed in polar white ABS.
3D Modio Lamp
A modular lamp that can be assembled in multiple configurations. Printed in polar white ABS and highway orange PLA.
3D Warrior Figure
A warrior figure that is perfect for a family project with the kids. Printed in dynamite red and polar white ABS.
CEL Robox 3D Printer Robox is a 3D printer that combines the best next-generation features at a fraction of the cost. Designed totally from scratch with performance in mind, it's an exciting and much-anticipated model. But it's not just hype - CEL has delivered a truly stunning product at an equally attractive price point. Precision Creating objects that are accurate to the software model requires extremely precise motion and the highest resolution possible. All Robox motors and axes are attached to a single stainless steel frame which is a reference surface for all motion; this is rigidly attached to injection molded parts which form the body of the printer to create a super-stable platform. Additionally, the Robox boasts a surreal 20 micron maximum layer resolution, allowing for the smallest details to be created flawlessly. The nozzle valve system created by CEL cuts off filament completely, eliminating ooze and contributing to a much smoother surface finish - meaning less time spent on finishing work. Forward-Focused CEL uses powerful custom-designed stepper motors in the Robox, meaning that your printer won't become obsolete just because there's an updated head available - the motors are equipped to handle it. SPECIFICATIONS: Print Technology; Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF); Build Volume: 210x150x100mm/8.3x5.9x3.9in; Best Layer Resolution; 20 microns; Filament Diameter; 1.75mm+/-0.05mm; Nozzle Diameters; 0.3mm (0.012") and 0.8mm (0.031"); Material Compatibility; PLA, ABS, HIPS, Nylon, PC, PVA; Internal Lighting; Full RGB; Print Bed: Tapeless Heated Polyetherimide; Power Requirements; 100-240VAC, 50-60Hz; connectivity USB 2.0.
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Legal DisclaimerMust be 18 or older to purchase. Product carries a manufacturer warranty of one year that is facilitated through the manufacturer. Only genuine CEL accessories may be used with this product. Any use outside of manufacturers specification, or use of accessories that are not CEL approved will void manufacturer warranty.
Top customer reviews
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I am a mechanical engineer, I have been using this technology for ten years, or since its infancy. The CEL Robox printer does produce nice parts and it's realitively easy to use. But and it's a big but, the print heads are overly sensitive complicated and expensive. The heads are prone to failure and is a well known and documented issue. I've had my machine 6 months and only have 39 hours of print time as the machine is always down. I'm on my second head and am waiting on my third. The customer service in AZ is combative and always looking for a way to void the warranty at every turn. It is only because of my background and experience voiding of the warranty has not yet occurred.
The filaments made by the company are problematic and CEL will not admit any issues of moisture contamination which in turn cause damage to the heads.
For the cost of this machine you can purchase a much less expensive and much less temperamental and still achieve the same quality prints.
Just stay away!
The photos I'm including with this review are of a tiny Texas emblem that took about 7 minutes in draft mode and is slightly larger than a quarter - easy peasy. The Mayan style pyramid was a bit bigger, lots more detailed and took about 40 minutes in the normal mode. I have included a photo of the inside of the pyramid mid-print to show the honeycomb construction as the layers were laid down. The big boy though is the detail model of Angkor Wat. This was quite a large file and took over 12 hours from start to finish in normal mode - fine mode would have rendered much more detail in several areas, but would also have doubled the print time. I have also included a photo of the construction process on the Angkor Wat model with the Robox print head in action and it's light on - this was about 5 hours into the project. And a close up of the final result. You can see the little curved tops of the walls and the tiny curved openings in the entry gate. (all of these templates came from Thingiverse by the way - that place is awesome)
The Robox machine itself...well it's got a reasonable size footprint for home use. About the size of a counter top microwave oven or a an all in one printer. But you do need some space around it for a couple of reasons. First you need to get in and out of it to change or load your filament rolls easily and the door raises up and back over the top of the machine, so you need a bit of top clearance there. Secondly this machine does generate heat and it needs free airflow. It never got hot to the touch or underneath on my table - not even during the marathon 12 hours for the Angkor Wat print. The power cord and the USB cord are both located in the back and have more than enough length to reach both a wall outlet and your laptop - my laptop is about four foot from the Robox. You don't need to keep the computer connected to the printer once your project is transferred to the Robox, but I find that if I have trouble with a print (clogging or not sticking etc) then I want to immediately have access to the software. There is no way to stop or pause a print directly from the machine unless you power it off entirely.
The tips others have given about preheating the print bed and the nozzles, purging the nozzles before and after each project and doing the alignments are dead on accurate. Don't skip these steps or your projects will be garbage. The software is pretty thorough and it allows you to customize your prints, designs and detail level - I have learned that I need to learn A LOT more about design etc before I start fiddling with some of the settings. (instead of a nice horse statue, I got a big blob of filament with a lovely horse backside) However, for the beginner, this is pretty much a plug and play machine. Stop and read that line again and let it sink in. ***** The average person with a bit of techie inclination can plug in the Robox, connect it to a good laptop, download a design for free and literally make a thing in their living room that did not physically exist the day before. ****
Now for the bad. My reason for the rage and ultimately, the one star deduction. I am on my second unit in exactly thirty days. My first one arrived with an un-level gantry, an X axis that wouldn't move, the fine nozzle would spit out filament randomly all over the print bed and the printer head would lock up and scrape over the print bed repeatedly until it etched grooves into the metal base. That was all in the first two days. I did all the trouble shooting things I could find online and in the book and reached out to CEL directly for help. I would get one problem fixed and a new one would literally pop up minutes later. Additionally, the software rebooted three times trying to update itself when it was actually current - not a big deal, but it sent my older laptop into a fit ( five year old laptop running Windows 7). Once that was settled, I have had no more drama with the software at all. CEL has a problem with communication in a timely fashion with customer service (as noted by other reviewers already) and it took ten days to come to a solution. However, they DID respond and they did replace the malfunctioning machine with one that works correctly. That may just be a result of growing pains - this company is based in Great Britain and production is in Asia and they are new to sales in the US, so distribution etc may still need time to settle in. I really waffled between the four and five star rating, but decided the four was fair since I'm not the only who has had these same problems. I do think this is a very good 3D printer and one that I don't feel bad letting friends test out when they visit so they can see it in action, nor will I hesitate to recommend it to other folks.
************* UPDATE DECEMBER 19, 2015 *****************
I have been using this printer on a regular basis, perhaps 2 or 3 times a week on average and I still love it. I printed Christmas ornaments for all our friends and a ton of sci-fi objects as gifts as well. (The Tardis, a tiny Millennium Falcon, Serenity from Firefly of course) I haven't had a repeat of the problems mentioned in the beginning with the first machine. Additionally, I have gotten a new laptop running Windows 10 and the software works exactly as it should.
My criteria and how they panned out with Cel Robox after receiving it 5 days ago:
* Ease of use:
Plug and play - print right away after installing Robox Automaker software (the white card is a usb drive accessible by flipping it to pop out and install software), but do the following first before printing (you knew the "but" was coming) :
a) This is optional but Robox community suggests that you always run a Purge (there seems to be test filament in the print head upon unboxing so do the Purge before anything else) OR print the "Robox/3D Models/pyramid.stl" on Draft (you can always pause then cancel once the first few layers of the pyramid is confirmed sticking to the bed if not it takes 9 mins to print pyramid). I did find that preheating the bed, warming the ambient temperature inside the printer, and preheating extruder gives you successful first layers after especially with ABS filament.
b) Let the bed cool down a bit so when you clean up the purged material or remove the printed pyramid, the alcohol from the IPA wipes doesn't evaporate right away and it'll be easier to remove the filament material when the bed is cooled down. It doesn't contradict the first step of preheating since the bed is still warm after and ambient temperature inside the printer is relatively warmer as well.
c) Clean the bed with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) wipes.
d) Add your model for printing. Before you press the Print button though, set the "Brim" parameter to either 2 or 3. It will add an extra thin first layer around the perimeter of your model. This will ensure that the first layer sticks and stays down instead of lifting up or bending up that sometimes happen on ABS prints. If you can't see the print button that looks like a play button, make sure the filament has been fed properly by pushing it in a bit, make sure you hear a motor whir after, and feel the filament getting pulled in.
e) Now print whatever you like. Remember to let the bed cool down a bit before removing your print. Remove the Brim layer. Then clean up the bed again once you are done.
Note 1: If you find that the filament is not sticking on the first Purge, AutoMaker software has a "Calibrate Nozzle Height" on the "Status" tab > Click 3 dots on panel divider to open advanced settings > "Maintenance" sub tab. This will make sure that the extruder nozzle isn't too high from the bed when printing the first layer. IMPORTANT!!! Before you run it, you will have to remove the PEI plate (the brownish plate with the Robox logo) on the bed. Slide the front black tab with a metal clip to the left, push up the plate a bit from the front finger slot, and slide it carefully out. Follow instructions to determine if the nozzle height is set just right.
Note 2: You'll find that printing in "Draft" instead of "Normal" or "Fine" may be enough resolution for your needs. With Draft, it will exclusively use the larger extruder. Normal and Fine uses both extruders. Go with "Draft" first if you're printing the design model for the very first time. It will save you lots of time. It won't be as pretty but it will get the job done.
I found that the Automaker PDF User Guide is outdated and this confused me a bit. Skip the documentation about the auto registration part since it is no longer in AutoMaker software. Also remember that you can click on the 3 dots on the panel divider to show Advance Settings. There you will find a panel to send GCode commands to the printer as well. If you can't open the printer door for any reason (make sure print is not paused and has cancelled/finished printing), just send the command "G37" to open the case door. I current do not know how to reopen "*.robox" project files that has my model scaling and rotation saved settings since the documentation doesn't match the latest version of AutoMaker. It's not big issue for me but Cel I request that you update your documentation for every AutoMaker version release.
Finally, Robox is plug and play because you don't have to assemble the printer. You also don't need to level the bed and don't need to configure your filament/material settings every time before printing. But unlike inkjet/laser printers, there are some things you still need to do to ensure a successful print. A successful print right now can still have blobs and stringy parts. As far as I've researched, all consumer/commercial 3D printers have issues and they are not at the stage where 3D printers are truly plug and play like paper printers. You will still occasionally get bad and inconsistent prints. Even with the amazing technology Cel implemented on Robox, I still would not say 3D printing is now mainstream. But of all the 3D Printers, Cel Robox I think has addressed more issues than the competition (auto-leveling gantry, heated plates, microclimate ambient temperature, material detection and number of supported types, filament retract resolution, pause-resume, print-speed, extensibility, safety, etc). I wish I could say how it compares print quality wise since this is my first 3D Printer.
On my first ever print, the first layer filament didn't stick to the bed. Don't panic if this happens to you. This is why doing the above steps is very important and they avoid this from occasionally happening. I figured out how to resolve my issue by reading the manual and going to the community forums. I'm impressed that I didn't have to open a support ticket to solve it. I lurked into the forums by the way and haven't introduced myself to the community yet. The community is smaller compared to other forums because the printer is relatively new and you won't find a lot of youtube videos yet.
Instead of throwing specs around like 20 microns resolution (which I probably won't even configure/use since it will take forever to complete a print), I'll just say that I like the idea of upgrading the print heads. I can actually buy (backordered) a different print head RBX01-DM Kit Dual Material Head + 2nd Extruder. Even with that added to the cost, it is still cheaper than MakerBot Replicator 2X, MakerGear M2, Ultimaker 2 and LulzBot Taz 4. The Robox already has dual extruders but it is for the same material only. It has dual extruders with different sizes to speed up print time (uses bigger extruder to fill in material and smaller extruder for finer details outside). RBX01-DM has dual extruders for different color materials or different material types (probably same size extruder though). Robox is like the Dremel of 3D printers. It has the potential to attach 3d scanners, print circuit boards, and probably even do traditional subtractive manufacturing like cutting and routing.
Note 1: You can print with different colors using the regular print head by pausing print, eject material, feed in new color material, and then resume print.
Note 2: You're not stuck with buying Cel Robox branded filaments with EEPROM chips. You can buy and use filaments from other manufacturers/providers. It just won't have the pause/resume capability. There's a thingiverse Robox Reel Spooler: www.thingiverse.com/thing:576324 that allows you to rewind other brand filaments back into the Robox EEPROM SmartReel and even setup a custom material profile (temp, speed, etc. settings) for it so I guess you can still get pause/resume capability with other brands. Think "Cartridge World". I have not confirmed whether this works or not.
I have kids and while I encourage them to learn 3D printing with me, the bed and nozzle can get extremely hot. It will automatically lock the case door while printing. I like that I can lock the case door before turning it off as well.
It's been a month and things are actually better. With the recent software update AutoMaker 1.01.01 (now uses Cura slicer same developed by Ultimaker), I was able to print this seemingly impossible ring of ball bearings:
Something I thought was not possible to print on the Robox. I was also able to complete my 3D Printer Smoke Alarm project just recently.
Experience so far:
Overall, I'm satisfied and I do understand why other reviews haven't been great. I do acknowledge reviewers are very technical and knowledgeable about the subject. The experience they share is very valuable. A lot of things I printed also didn't work out and got stumped for awhile too. For example: Some models cannot be printed as is. I wish it is what-you-see-is-what-you-print, but humbly learned it's not.
On the hardware side I've had the same problems some have mentioned here so I don't think it's a lottery of good Robox printers. When nothing sticks on the bed I recalibrate. When nothing is coming out of the nozzle, I preheat nozzle, eject the material, re-cut filament, and try again. When it doesn't print right, I rethink and iterate. The community has been great and has helped me a lot.
I guess what I'm trying to say is for this price point it's really good (I have no affiliation with CEL Robox). I encourage you to keep at it and it'll work out. To me, having a Robox is like having an Automatic(P) mode on your digital camera. It's not only because it can set material, auto-leveling, and profile settings automatically but it has amazing tools to resolve issues with features like Eject Material, XY Offset, Nozzle Opening, and Nozzle Height calibrations. It's really good. This is recognition that is well deserved.
But just like with photography, the camera is not good alone. You need good lenses, a sturdy tripod, studio lighting, composition, and a good workflow. The workflow I learned is to always do planning and preprocessing: solidify models 1st with Rhino3D/MeshMixer, split the models if needed, plan orientation, and alternatively use MeshMixer to generate the support layer. So far, I've only used the default print settings on the Robox and have not played yet with all the different manual settings. Honestly, the Print quality is not yet on par with the $2500 and over printers. I think with future software improvements (Robox software has only been in development for a year) and learning how to use manual settings will help improve the quality even further.
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