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Arno Ilgner

The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers Paperback – September 1, 2006

by Arno Ilgner (Author), Jeff Achey (Editor), Tracy Martin (Illustrator)

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Mental training is scarcely covered in the climbing literature, yet it is as important to performance as strength, flexibility, and technique. In his unique approach to mental training, Arno Ilgner draws essential elements from the rich 'warrior' literature, as well as from sports psychology, and combines these with his extensive climbing experience to create The Rock Warrior`s Way. Here is a comprehensive program for learning how to focus your mental resources during a challenging climb. It includes step-by-step guidance on motivation analysis, information gathering, risk assessment, mental focus, and deliberate transition into action. Poor use of attention creates fear, which can manifest itself as anything from performance anxiety to sheer terror. By using attention more purposefully we can understand how fear is created, deal with it effectively, and free ourselves to get back in touch with a far more powerful motivating force--our love of climbing. We can then create the kind of unbending intention that leads to outstanding performance. The Rock Warrior`s Way is a revolutionary program for climbers who want to improve both their performance and their enjoyment of climbing.

Print length

176 pages
Language

English
Publisher

Desiderata Institute
Publication date

September 1, 2006
Dimensions

6 x 0.5 x 9 inches
ISBN-10

0974011215
ISBN-13

978-0974011219
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Editorial Reviews

About the Author

Arno Ilgner distinguished himself as a pioneering rock climber in the 1970s and 80s, when the top climbs were bold and dangerous first ascents. These personal exploits are the foundation for Ilgner s unique physical and mental training program--The Warrior`s Way. In 1995, after a thorough search of the literature and practice of mental training and the great warrior traditions, Ilgner formalized his methods, founded the Desiderata Institute, and began teaching his program full time. Since then, he has helped hundreds of student sharpen their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. Ilgner considers the joy and satisfaction in the effort the journey intimately linked to successful attainment of goals, the destination. Alumni of his courses now include some of the nation s most prominent climbers. Ilgner has run clinics in the north- and southeastern U.S, to California, Canada, and the U.K. He has worked with young competition climbers and written national magazine articles based on his methods. He holds a BA in geology, spent several years operating his own geological consulting firm in the Wyoming oil fields, acted as Chief Financial Officer for an industrial tool distribution company, attended the Army Ranger School, and served a non-combat tour of duty in Korea. He currently resides with his family near Nashville, Tennessee.

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Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ Desiderata Institute; 2nd edition (September 1, 2006)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Paperback ‏ : ‎ 176 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0974011215
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0974011219
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 11.8 ounces
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 6 x 0.5 x 9 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #53,481 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #86 in Sports Psychology (Books)
- #110 in Sports Training (Books)

Customer Reviews:
280 ratings

Customer reviews

5 star		89%
4 star		8%
3 star		1%
2 star 0% (0%)		0%
1 star		2%

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Top reviews from the United States

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Philip Wire

Transformative. Changed not just my climbing, but my way of thinking

Reviewed in the United States on September 21, 2019

Verified Purchase

After an unsuccessful attempt on the Grand Teton in 2018, this book was recommended to me by a helpful guide. I had a a series of panic attacks shortly after the exposed climbing began and aborted my climb. While most of the book focuses on sport and trad climbing instead of mountaineering, this book is FANTASTIC for any climbing discipline from bouldering to alpine mountaineering. This book taught me to embrace the inner journey, stop using the comparing mind to pad my ego and take a hard look at how I could grow as a climber. My comfort with exposure and heights is still a work in progress, but after reading this book and getting some practice, I returned to the Tetons and summited the Grand in 2019. This book deserves a lot of the credit. If you climb at all in any discipline, I can't recommend it enough. If you struggle with fear of falling or fear of exposure, it is a must-read.

8 people found this helpful

Helpful

Eric F

Best climbing book I know of.

Reviewed in the United States on April 1, 2019

Verified Purchase

My desk has a pile of mountaineering books, guide books, climbing technique books, fitness books, and other things of the sort. Rock Warrior's Way though was like a needle straight to the vein, hitting the things that were really keeping me from progressing. Fear, wasting your limited mental power, and crap self-talk as an example. A "self help" book for climbing but sound like full on new-agey bs but really, this has as much practicality as a hammer and wrench. You can take lessons from here and use them the next day and you'll improve. It's really remarkable.

I got to the top of a route yesterday that was super overhang-y and athletic. There was a top move that required every ounce of the physical me, and required dead-on mental focus. I got to it and howled. I also learned the whole way up, including the 5+ times I got thrown off. This lessons in this book give me the mental attitude to manage all the crap in my head. Can't recommend it enough.

7 people found this helpful

Helpful

S. Girard

Great Read. Highly Recommend!

Reviewed in the United States on January 18, 2019

Verified Purchase

I've been struggling with taking on sport climbing due to fear of injury/fear of falling. I've only been climbing for a year, so the world of all things climbing is still relatively new to me. I ordered this book after a few climbing trips when I noticed that fear was holding me back from expanding my climbing knowledge. I won't lie -- I am still afraid after reading this book, however, it has provided me with some excellent mental training tactics to use while climbing, especially on climbs outside of my comfort zone. This book will serve as a great reference to look back on for years to come. I've already lent it out to a friend to borrow and can't wait to get it back to read it again. It provides lessons for climbing, but also things that can be applicable to life in general. It's a very inspirational book that teaches you how important it is to explore outside of your comfort zone. 5 stars! Highly recommend. Thank you, The Rock Warrior's Way!

2 people found this helpful

Helpful

A G

Wanna grow as a climber? Read this book.

Reviewed in the United States on October 31, 2017

Verified Purchase

Great book! Kinda new-agey but if you can get past it and focus on the true message of the book then it will help your climbing. It helps to be honest with yourself and let yourself take a real, good, hard look in the mirror when you're reading otherwise, you may not take anything away from it. It really helped me get my head right when it comes to taking risks. Since reading this book, i have found myself to be more gritty, more willing to persevere, and more likely to throw for a hold I normally wouldn't have. The author points out different kinds of ways we self-sabotage our "success" on a climb. He tackles the ego and presents various ideas in a simple, direct, and impactful way. After reading this book, my climbing has changed and the lessons i have learned have transferred into other areas of my life. Give it a shot, it'll be worth it.

3 people found this helpful

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Madhav

Phenomenal.

Reviewed in the United States on July 17, 2017

Verified Purchase

What a completely amazing book. I wasn't sure how Arno would fill an entire book worth of "what to think about when you climb", but i now realize that the book is about so much more than that... It has opened my eyes and my mind to so much... i'm recommending this book equally to climbers and nonclimbers alike, anyone who is interested in becoming sharper, more aware, and simply better at ANYTHING it is they do.

Oh and by the way, my climbing has significantly improved since reading this book.

One person found this helpful

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Kelsey

Extremely Recommended

Reviewed in the United States on December 11, 2011

Verified Purchase

I've been buying off of Amazon for a few years now, and this is the first time I've ever been compelled to write a review about a book or product. I recommend this book to any one that rock climbs regularly or wants to get serious about their climbing. This book addresses so many mental aspects of climbing that I face (and still work on improving) since the first day I ever climbed. I'm only halfway through the book and it's already helped me so much. As I read, I've been highlighting ideas/passages that really hit home for me.. I've been remembering them while on the wall, and they've actually helped me on those walls or cruxes where your mind is holding you back. This is a really interesting read and I suggest it to any one that needs help with the mental aspect of climbing. Especially if you are new to climbing. I've only been climbing about 8 months, so this book has really helped me transform my thinking. I've wanted to lend this book to my climbing partner but I don't want to let go of it, I may just buy her one for herself =)

One person found this helpful

Helpful

Daniel Martinez

Changed My Life

Reviewed in the United States on January 10, 2020

Verified Purchase

What an amazing read. As a non-climber I purchased this book based on available information regarding its quality. The material is the most clear and accessible language I have read, I'm an avid reader, regarding learning to be present, focusing, and overcoming challenges. I've since read "Espresso Lessons" and thoroughly enjoyed the follow-up as well. Arno is brilliant and I will review this book for the rest of my life.

Helpful

Top reviews from other countries

Samuel

There is so much in it not only useful for climbing but transferable to daily life in general as well.

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on March 14, 2018

Verified Purchase

This book is absolutely great. Not a lot of books written on the mental aspect of climbing and yet it is a rather important aspect as climbing does come with risk and mental awareness when doing something with risk is mighty important. There is so much in it not only useful for climbing but transferable to daily life in general as well.
I found this book after my confidence got knocked about a bit after coming off during a slightly more intense lead climb, I dropped quite a few metres and due to the shape of the climb (a slab with overhangs) I ended up twisting during the fall and bang my head and back. After that my confidence doing leads was absolutely knocked out of me, I would clamp up and shake like a leaf in the wind.This book has lots of advice on dealing with your personal self when climbing and has a whole section in the back as well with exercises you can do, anything from breathing while climbing (of course we all breath while climbing but then there is more helpful breathing ways than others), to tips like filming yourself and review your own climbing afterwards and compare with how you were doing at certain sections - I found that tip particularly helpful.
Anyway, I could ramble on for hours about how great this book is.

One person found this helpful

Mike

Generic self help book

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on January 28, 2019

Verified Purchase

This book is no different to the dozens of other self help books out there. It's long winded and meandering, often even quite boring. I think there are some useful lessons in it, but certainly nothing special.

3 people found this helpful

Richard

Very informative book

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on March 9, 2020

Verified Purchase

Very intresting book with lots of techniques to use in everyday life and most importantly on the rock. Needs reading a few times to sink in.

Will J

So much more than a headgame book

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on June 7, 2018

Verified Purchase

Great read. Lots of truisms, but they only seem obvious once you’ve read them! Bought it to deal with a fear of falling, but I think it’s a must-read for any climber. Lots of handy exercises to try at the back.

ExploreMore

Very good read

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on April 26, 2019

Verified Purchase

Recommended for all sport climbers looking to improve their head-game.

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