|Item Weight||8.7 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||9.8 x 9.8 x 5.3 inches|
|Item model number||P3SD48|
|Batteries||1 12V batteries required.|
|Depth (inches)||2.66 inches|
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Rockford P3SD48 P3 Punch Shallow mount 8-Inch DVC 4-Ohm Subwoofer
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This item Rockford P3SD48 P3 Punch Shallow mount 8-Inch DVC 4-Ohm Subwoofer
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|Vehicle Speaker Size||8_inch||8_inch||8_inch||10_inch||10_inch||10_inch|
Rockford PUNCH 8" SHALLOW MOUNT DVC SUBWOOFE
Top customer reviews
It's pretty easy to get at the OE subwoofer in this particular car. The problem was finding a 2 ohm subwoofer that'll fit in the OE enclosure, which is actually a good box (made of that really dense polymer that a lot of pro audio speakers are made of, bolted really tight into the left rear cargo area) ... probably better than anything I could make on my own. This subwoofer is "4 ohm," but you can make it 2 ohm by wiring the two terminal blocks together. (See the suggested wiring schematics that come packaged with the sub.)
I tried a cheaper Planet Audio model first, but it was too long/deep for the OE box. I'm actually glad it didn't work, because that forced me to look at some higher quality "shallow mount" models, and it was down to the Pioneer, or this one. The mounting ring/plate on the Pioneer didn't look like it would fit in the box without a LOT of extra work (I saw a YouTube video of a guy that spent hours carving material out of the mounting cavity on his OE box to make it fit ... bad idea), so I opted for this one. Another happy accident.
The mounting plate/flange on the Rockford Fosgate didn't fit the box either, but I was able to make it fit by cutting away some of the extraneous loops/material in the outer ring, leaving only the typical four "ears." The material looks really thick in the pictures, but most of it is plastic, and I was relieved to realize that I was able to make all the cuts I needed to with a Dremel tool/cutter in about 20-30 minutes. The outer diameter of the mounting plate/flange is a little smaller than that of the OE subwoofer, so the holes for the RF "ears" didn't quite reach the holes for the OE, but they were close enough to drill new holes in the meaty part of the OE box material that supported the OE screws. Far more important, enough of the neoprene gasket on the back side of the mounting plate contacted the mating surface on the OE box to make a good seal.
Once I got the mounting issues solved, the rest was easy. The terminals are the push type ... no clips or soldering required. I just needed to mate some new wire with the OE clips, connect them to the speaker and OE harness, and voila ... I was thumpin. I'm sure this sub is woefully underpowered by the factory head unit/secondary amp in this vehicle, but compared to what I had before (basically nothing), it still sounds amazing.
As you can probably tell from the fact that I lived with a totally blown/disintegrated OE subwoofer for YEARS without bothering to replace it, I don't need massive, thumping bass that rattles my whole car to be satisfied from my position in the driver's seat. I just want better speakers for the OE system than the paper cone junk that Chevy put in the car 16 years ago. This vehicle has a total of six different speakers in addition to the subwoofer (front doors, rear doors, rear pillars), and finally having a quality sub really fills out the whole system in a way I've never heard in all the 12 or so years I've owned the car.
So far I'm VERY pleased. This is a solid, pro audio sub. Very well constructed ... nice rigid cone, thick seal/surround, heavy magnet/housing, relatively easy to modify/customize to fit any application requiring shallow depth, works at 2 or 4 ohms ... love it.
Obviously doesn't hit as low as the 12" in my truck, but in the tight airspace of a Miata this thing kicks!!!