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Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built by [Federman, Mark Russ]
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Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built Kindle Edition

4.5 out of 5 stars 94 customer reviews

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Length: 226 pages Word Wise: Enabled Enhanced Typesetting: Enabled
Page Flip: Enabled
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Editorial Reviews

Review

“If you've ever lived in New York or have any affection for a bagel and lox, you’ll appreciate this look at one of New York’s most iconic food stores. Federman’s history of his family and his store will give you a crazy feeling of nostalgia, even if you weren't yet born during the times he describes.”
—Huffington Post, Best Food Books of 2013

“The only thing better than this forshpayz of memories, photographs, and recipes would be a trip to East Houston Street to ‘the house that herring built.’ ”
—Dawn Drzal, The New York Times Book Review

“Federman’s voice pops from the page. . . . Russ & Daughters is a good story well told, packed with zinging Yiddishisms and better-than-average jokes that bubble up organically. You soak in it, like brine, until you’re pleasantly pickled.”
—Dwight Garner, The New York Times
 
“For centuries on end philosophers have tried and failed to define the good life. Federman’s life as revealed here can hardly be reduced to a set of impersonal abstractions, but if philosophers are willing to settle for a case in point rather than a developed theory, let them read his marvelous book.”
—Jason Epstein, The Wall Street Journal
 
“With crisp and evocative details worthy of a Malamud short story, Federman conveys an avuncular ardor for the feisty characters on both sides of the Russ & Daughters counter. . . . He has turned over a bounty of fish tales, immigrant lore, family photos, and recipes, assembling them into a memoir as abundant in charm as the Russ inventory is in gastronomic seductions.”
—Jan Stuart, The Boston Globe
 
“Much like its author, the Russ & Daughters book is blunt and breezy. Along with family history and Russ & Daughters lore, Federman shares recipes from the haute (lox chowder) to the humble (classic egg cream). There’s also a glossary of fish that’s as much social history as culinary reference—who knew sturgeon once figured in a federal bribery investigation?”
—Michael Kaminer, New York Daily News
 
“A charming tale of  a Jewish immigrant family whose business grew from humble pushcart origins to the internationally known powerhouse it is today. [The book] bottles Federman’s talent as a master schmoozer and offers a nibble at the Russ & Daughters experience for those who can’t make it to New York’s Lower East Side on a regular basis.”
—Gothamist
 
“Federman is an engaging narrator, and his consideration of his grandfather’s rise in the world of herring is both honest and charming. . . . He traced his family history by visiting rabbis and aged aunts, talking with longtime customers, and calling on his memory of a childhood spent in the shop. Now that his daughter and nephew run the store, Federman has enough distance to talk about his years behind the counter and write this thoughtful history of both a family and a neighborhood.”
—The Brooklyn Rail

“When I was a child, my father and I would often stop at Russ & Daughters on Sundays, on our way to Brooklyn to visit cousins.  It was there, in that friendly, wonderful store, that I learned the difference between nova and lox, poppy seed and plain, cream cheese and farmer cheese, sable and sturgeon.  And now I am continuing the family tradition.  Jude, my two-year-old granddaughter, just visited the store and started learning about the many types of herring, which she loves.  I will start reading this book to her just as soon as she can enjoy a bagel with Baltic salmon and cream cheese.”
—Martha Stewart

“The grandson of the founder of J. Russ Cut Rate Appetizing (the name changed to Russ & Daughters in 1935) tells a remarkable story of family foresight and resiliency, and gives fascinating details of early life among the teeming streets of New York’s Lower East Side in the first decades of the century. . . . Including precious pictures and recipes, this work offers a savory wealth of social history, told humorously and endearingly.”
Kirkus Reviews

“The best thing in the world is to go to Russ & Daughters. The next-best thing in the world is to read Russ & Daughters.”
—Oliver Sacks

“Forget the Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty . . . New York City’s  greatest living institution is very likely Russ & Daughters: a temple of uniquely New York deliciousness, Zen-like perfection, and a repository of generations of wisdom and experience.  Mark Russ Federman’s book is a story not just about the food that made New York great, but a deeply felt personal history. When visiting a new city for the first time, I’ve always asked the question: ‘What do they do here better than anywhere else?’ When visiting New York City for the first time, the answer is always ‘Russ & Daughters.’ ”
—Anthony Bourdain

About the Author

Mark Russ Federman, grandson of founder Joel Russ, took over the running of Russ & Daughters from his parents in 1978 and turned it over to the fourth generation, his daughter, Niki, and nephew Josh, in 2009. He has appeared individually and on panels at the Smithsonian Institution, the Museum of the City of New York, the New York Public Library, and the conference of the Association of Food Journalists, among other venues. Mark and Russ & Daughters were most recently featured on the PBS documentary The Sturgeon Queens; on Lidia Bastianich’s PBS series Lidia Celebrates America; and on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations.


Product Details

  • File Size: 11163 KB
  • Print Length: 226 pages
  • Publisher: Schocken (March 5, 2013)
  • Publication Date: March 5, 2013
  • Sold by: Random House LLC
  • Language: English
  • ASIN: B00985DYJ2
  • Text-to-Speech: Enabled
  • X-Ray:
  • Word Wise: Enabled
  • Lending: Not Enabled
  • Enhanced Typesetting: Enabled
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #740,092 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
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Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

By Author/Reviewer Geri Ahearn TOP 500 REVIEWERVINE VOICE on March 6, 2013
Format: Hardcover Verified Purchase
After living in New York forty-five years, born in Brooklyn, and spending most of my life there, there are special memories one can never forget. As a child growing-up with my cousins and my relatives all living in different sections of Brooklyn, everyone knew the famous name of 'Russ & Daughters.' When I think of one of New York's finest stores, this name has its amazing history. This incredible book tells the triumphant story of an immigrant beginning a family business that became the talk of the century, and a respected, famous name that anyone from New York could relate to. The heartwarming story delivers a colorful portrait of where it all began to good times, and bad times as well. The generations of family, the devotion, and the fight to keep it going through times of struggle and the Great Depression is an unforgettable story of remarkable family tradition. My Dad, and my aunts and uncles always raved about the service it provided to the community, even during changing times within the neighborhoods. You didn't have to be Jewish to appreciate this appetizer store, known to many as a farmer's market for smoked and pickled fish. The journey for the family tradition was as exciting and delightful as much as all the regular customers enjoyed visiting this store, and Sundays it became a conversational social event for many. One hard-working family began the business, and through all the years of tough times, it kept going as it continued to grow more-and-more admiration. The older folks today, who grew up in Brooklyn, remember very well how enchanting and inspiring this tradition became to millions of people over the years. The reminiscences of family history is motivating as it brings a smile to many who understand its symbolic background.Read more ›
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Format: Kindle Edition Verified Purchase
Although, i myself, did not live on the L E S ( as the t shirts down there read!) . My grandparents did. My dad and his siblings were raised in many of those tenements. My dad used to tell me he slept in the tub, which was covered by aboard during the day and used as a counter, as it was in the kitchen! In the 1950's he and my uncle bought one of the Katz's delies from the katz's! My aunts worked the registers and the tables.
My own son was born in florida, but ended up living across the street from katz' on Ludlow in a brand new building perhaps during the same time as that young couple from Boston, who reviewed Russ and Daughters!
It was so mind bending to walk around his neighborhood and revisit sights and smells of my grandparents!

This book gave me back memories, i had long forgotten and never had!
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Format: Hardcover
Before I review this book, let's talk about me - just as if we are schmoozing in a line at the counter of an appetizing store on the Lower East Side. I am not a Litvak... well, perhaps I am a half-Litvak, but still, I never ate whitefish or lox until I was at least twenty. And I still have never eaten herring. And yet, I loved this book.

In this book, the author, Mark Russ Federman, the grandson of the founder of Russ & Daughters, Joel Russ, recounts his family's stories from Manhattan's Lower East Side; the founding of his family's cut-rate herring and appetizing store; life in a four-generation family business; and glimpses into the Jewish or Russ family style of retail customer service. And for good measure, he throws in a few recipes (more on this below).

The book opens with a foreword by Calvin Trillin, the famed essayist, author, and humorist. One of Trillin's novels, "Tepper Isn't Going Out" was partially set in a parking space in front of Russ & Daughters' store on East Houston Street. Trillin's foreword alone was worth the book's purchase price to me. He recounts how he would shop for bagels and smoked fish with his daughters as they were growing up. Sure, perhaps he could find fish for a lower price, but where else would one of the Russ daughters drop everything to kvell over the beauty of his kids? Like eating at the now defunct Ratner's or a dairy restaurant, you came as much for the experience as for the food.

Joel Russ (pronounced Rooos originally but who's going to argue with a customer; just say Russ) arrived on Manhattan's Lower East Side from the Austro Hungarian area of Southeastern Poland and started to peddle herring from a barrel.
Read more ›
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Format: Hardcover Verified Purchase
For any Jew growing up in New York after WWII a weekly visit to the appetizer store was a necessary ritual. There you could find all varieties of smoked fish and where the cream cheese was cut to order from a large slab. A few doors down you could buy your bagels and bialys for the week. In today's supermarket world the smoked sturgeon doesn't exist, the lox comes only in one or two varieties, the cream cheese is sold in small containers, and no one ever heard of a bialy. This memoir is the story of a family tradition and business that survived through persistence and innovation in a time of changing populations and neighborhoods. Fortunately, the author tells his story with engaging prose and great humor. The recipes are an added bonus.
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