|Item Weight||13.35 pounds|
|Package Dimensions||10.8 x 8.5 x 7.8 inches|
|California residents||Click here for Proposition 65 warning|
|Item model number||203005|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
Rust-Oleum 203005 Garage Floor Kit, Gray
|Price:||$99.50 & FREE Shipping|
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Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield, Gray Garage Floor Kit, 2 Part Waterborne Epoxy Resin Garage Floor Surface System, Resists Chemicals & Hot Tire Pick Up, Doesn't Require Primers Or Acid Etching, Kit Covers 250 Square Feet, Contains 1 Gallon Paint, 1 QT Activator, Concentrated Surface Cleaner, Decorative Chips & How To Video.
From the Manufacturer
Rust-Oleum EPOXY shield garage floor coating creates showroom-quality surfaces. Protects against gasoline, antifreeze, motor oil, salt and hot tire pick-up. Kit includes 2-part water-based epoxy coating, concentrated cleaner, decorative chips, stir stick, detailed instructions and an instructional video.
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Disclosure: I am a professional, non-union painter for over 10 years. I currently paint for hospitals and clinics in the Twin Cities metro area.
I work with Epoxy paint frequently painting bathroom and operating rooms from various manufacturers (Sherwin Williams, Dutch Boy, etc.)
Largely I have found Epoxy paints to be consistent across all brands, no better, no worse. 99% of the time when I see epoxy products fail it has little if anything to do with the product itself, but rather the surface preparation.
Things to understand:
Drying Time is not the same a Cure time. This is true for latex paints as well as Epoxy, Enamels, etc.
Epoxy products can be dry in as few as 30 minutes to the touch. This has nothing to do with the product curing. Epoxy paints on floors can take as many as 30 days to full cure. Yes 30 days. I just finished last evening doing my own floor with this product (Ice Blue was the tint I went with). While it is dry to the touch after 6 hours for foot traffic It needs at least 8 hours. Based on the humidity in the house (I have the air running) it will be ready for furniture in another 12 hours roughly PROVIDED you have pads underneath (felt is common). For direct hard surface contact this product, like most epoxy products will need 4-7 days depending on humidity. Peeling is normally the result of dust residue or a weak, existing, surface treatment or contaminate.
DO NOT RELY ON MOPPING ALONE. You need to wash any surface (wall or otherwise) before applying paints, even epoxy. I suggest using your carpet shampooer if it has a hard floor attachment. If not, mop one with a solution of Simple Green and water then mop 2 more times with plain water changing out the water frequently. Another option is to rinse with a wet-vac and a pitcher of warm water, Use an attachment with bristles. Vertical surfaces do not have as much residue and a simple bucket of warm water and a sponge will do just fine. LET IT DRY OVERNIGHT. It may look dry, and even feel dry but that is at the surface only. Concrete is like a sponge with water and it takes longer to dry then you may realize.
When applying the product and rolling to reduce the lap mark appearances criss cross and be a bit chaotic with your rolling pattern. The flecks distract the eye by adding 'noise' to the visual. The same technique is used when rolling paint on walls and floors. Your eye picks up on consistent edges and lines. A common term is to feather your edges but in reality you want to feather the whole thing in that sense. That way the lap marks are chaotic enough that, combined with the flecks, are lost in the noise. As a painter you will always notice the lines but in about a week you'll forget where they are and never notice them, your guests will likely never notice them at all. A second coat may reduce\eliminate lap marks but you'll need to wait at least 72 hours between coats. The first product needs to be cured (not just dry) before apply a second coat or you risk peeling. Again mop the surface if you plan on a second coat.
Not all the flecks will adhere to the surface. Remember to sweep then vacuum or your socks will be decorated.
If you need to place furniture sooner then later I would suggest using cardboard coasters for the first few days (4 minimum) then remove them from the lighter objects on day 5, heavy objects on day 7. Often I suggest people use area rugs under heavy objects not only for decorative purposes but also to act as a coaster for heavy objects. Cork board bought at a store can be cut with a scissors many times for custom coasters.
In summary while not all Epoxy products are created equally most have similar performance. This one is excellent not so much from a performance standpoint (they all work great) but the color options, fleck colors, price point, and low odor is very nice. I've worked with some brands of Epoxy that even in an OR (Operating Room) with forced air was so nauseating that I had to wear a respirator (which is a must in just about every circumstance except for large areas) and this product in a 250'ish square foot family room was hardly noticeable, even compared to normal latex products.
It's a safe buy BUT you must be diligent in your preparation and understand DRY is not the same as CURED.
As far as I can tell the surface cures first then progresses down to the point of contact. Even if the top surface is cured the bottom may not be and thus may peel (like pudding with that leathery surface but gooey underneath.)
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