|Item Weight||3.2 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||4.2 x 4.2 x 5 inches|
|California residents||Click here for Proposition 65 warning|
|Item model number||206540|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
Rust-Oleum 206540 Chalkboard Brush-On, Black, 30-Ounce
- Enter your model number to make sure this fits.
- Actual writable, erasable finish inspires creativity
- Converts wood, metal, plastic, glass, paperboard & hardboard into usable chalkboard
- The part number of the product is 206540
- Soap & water clean up
- Indoor use only
- Scratch resistant
- Use on wood, metal, plaster, paper-board, hardboard
- Superior hardness
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From the manufacturer
Indoor Specialty Chalkboard Paint
Produces an ultra hard, scratch resistant surface with superior durability. Roll or spray on for easy application.
Create, Organize, Personalize
Available in Green, Black and Clear. Express your creativity with colored or white chalk for all your coated objects.
Simply Erase to Start New Messages or Pictures
Clean with mild soap & water with a soft sponge or rag.
- Unglazed Ceramics
- Terra Cotta
Make a Chalkboard Without Changing Color!
Tips for a Perfect Chalkboard Finish
Properly Prepare the Surface
Remove any loose paint or rust, lightly sand glossy surfaces, rinse clean with soap/water and let surface fully dry.
Sanding surface before application allows for a smooth finish. Primer is recommended, especially for use on bare wood or metal. For best brush-on results, use a foam roller.
After 3 days, rub the side of a piece of chalk over the entire surface to increase erasability and then erase clean.
Wait for 7 Days Before Wiping Down
In order to achieve the best chalkboard surface, wait 7 days after conditioning with chalk before cleaning with soap and water. Repeat conditioning step after wiping down.
Fun Places for Chalkboard:
- Flower Pots
- Ping Pong Tables
- Picture Frames
- And More....
Make a Chalkboard on Almost Anything!
Create Erasable Spice Jars
Label Party Favors
Design a Weekly Calendar
Leave Love Notes
|# of Coats||2+||3+ Light Coats|
|Coverage||95-120 sq ft||7 sq ft|
|Application||Brush, Nap Roller, Foam Roller||Aerosol Spray|
|Dry to the Touch||30 Mins||20 Mins|
|Recoat Time||4 Hours||1 Hour|
|Ready for Use||After 3 Days||24 Hours|
Actual writable, erasable finish inspires creativity. Converts wood, metal, plastic, glass, paperboard & hardboard into usable chalkboard. Formulated with extremely hard pigments--won't leave scratch marks where chalk was used. Great for kids' projects, functional uses--even resurfacing ping-pong tables!.
From the Manufacturer
Rust-Oleum Specialty Chalk Board converts surfaces into a usable chalkboard. Apply to metal, wood, masonry, drywall, plaster, glass, concrete, unglazed ceramics and hardboard. Erases cleanly.
Top customer reviews
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So I recently had the super bright idea to paint an entire wall in my kitchen with this stuff. Wait, don't judge me yet- it wasn't like I'd planned to let my kids at it with a bucket full of sidewalk chalk. No, I'd envisioned a stylish wall filled with beautifully scripted holiday menus, cheeky quotes, inspiring verses, and other adorable things. I wholly blame Pinterest for this temporary lapse in sanity.
Armed with the creative vision of Martha Stewart and the home improvement skill level of my German Shepherd, I purchased two cans of Rustoleum brand chalkboard paint and some allegedly smooth(hahahahaha) paint rollers. I taped off the edges and got to work smearing this stuff all over my wall. Two coats and a few hours later, I stood back and admired my shiny new chalkboard surface. I let it "cure" for a few days as per the package directions, and then decided to take it for a test drive.
I found a cute chalkboard drawing of a pumpkin via Google image search, and tried to replicate it on my wall. Given that I'm about as much an artist as I am a pterodactyl (which is to say, not at all, just in case there's any confusion), my pumpkin looked more like a sad, partially deflated beach ball wearing a toupee. Oops, guess I needed to practice a little more. No biggie! With the determination of a newborn foal, I grabbed my kids' chalkboard eraser and cheerily wiped at my drawing. EXCEPT IT WOULDN'T.COME.OFF. The surface was rough and difficult to erase. There was now a permanent, poorly drawn, sad-looking squash emblazoned on my kitchen wall.
See, what no one tells you when you buy this amazing, fancy paint is that unless you've used a really thick primer, your walls need to be sanded before you apply it in order to get a smooth drawing surface. And that you should probably then apply it with a foam roller rather than one of those fuzzy ones.
Since I couldn't just leave my wall looking like the side of an overpass, I realized my options were either to paint over it with the wall color I'd used elsewhere in my kitchen, or try to sand it. Because I definitely didn't have enough on my plate with three kids, a small business to run, and a ton of housework, and because I'm clearly not firing on all synapses, I chose the latter. I returned to my beloved home improvement store and purchased several packs of sandpaper and some more paint. (Not a mask though, because that would have been just plain logical, and ain't none of that happenin under my roof!)
I returned home with a vengeance and attacked the stupid chalkboard wall with this sandpaper. Now, if you've never had to sand a tall, vertical surface, let me just tell you that it's probably right up there with being waterboarded on my list of "Awesome Life Experiences". Actually, being waterboarded is probably more interesting.
After ingesting enough black dust to develop Coalworker's Pneumoconiosis and looking like I'd just crawled out of someone's chimney, my wall was nice and smooth. I wiped it down with a damp sponge to remove any residual dust, and then broke out a new can of chalkboard paint.
I began applying the paint with a renewed sense of joy, back to imagining how great my chalkboard wall was going to be once it was finished. Oh man, it was going to be AWESOME! And then I accidentally knocked over the can of paint and spilled half of it down the side of my kitchen table and onto my floor. Looking back, I think this was probably the point at which I totally broke from reality, but who knows.
After cleaning up this giant puddle of thick black paint (dish soap and water, for all you fellow clumsy people), I had pretty much lost all interest in finishing this stupid bleeping wall. Actually, I hated it. I began flinging paint onto the wall much the way an animal rights protester might fling blood red paint at old ladies in fur coats. That said, eventually, I did finish painting it.
I'm pleased to report that after allowing it to cure again, then rubbing a piece of chalk allllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll over it, then erasing all that chalk, then cleaning the entire wall with a damp sponge, it's working great! I mean I wasted hours of my life and probably sacrificed any chance at pulmonary longevity, but hey, I can write on my wall with CHALK now. So there's that.
(In all seriousness, the product itself works great. Just make sure you sand your walls and maybe even use a primer first.)
Consequently I wipe the board down at the end of each day, so it looks clean. Another thing, I was told that one coat of this product is all that is needed. However I applied one coat onto the prepainted drywall and following the recommended drying period, the eraseability was even less satisfactory than it is currently. I ended up applying 5 layers of coat to get the finish I was happy with.
It's a good product. but if I could get a custom chalkboard made, that would be better. Obviously that exercise and cost would far outweigh the ease of painting the wall with this stuff, so while this paint may be more convenient, be aware of the limitations of this product.
Oh some tips!
Save your own jars vs buying new ones. Buy some utility buckets from automotive NOT the cleaning aisle. At Dollar General for ex. a " 3 gal utility bucket" was $3.75 the "automotive 3 gal car washing bucket" $1.25. 1st run them thru the dish washer (label on.) Then soak those babies with some borax & HOT WATER & dish soap. If you don't have borax just dish soap is ok. After a day see if they're starting to peel. The ones that aren't throw them back in a fresh batch of HOT water & dish soap. The ones that seem peelie grab dish brush with a scraper edge, a sharper edge spatula or even a garage item that'll scrape (without breaking the glass.) Now for the super sucky part...the adhesive. Buy some cheapyyyy cheap like $1 cooking oil or baby oil. Soemthing CHEAP. A wool pad or something abrasive that won't ruin your glass & some rubbing alcohol & some of the borax (or some cheap salt mixed equally with baking soda like 1Tbsp salt & 1Tbsp baking soda for example) will work (just something for abrasion & absorption .) Mix it all up about say 1/4 cup (or 1 part) oil, 1/4 cup (or 1 part) baking soda & salt mixture (or borax), & 1/8 cup (or 1/2 parts) alcohol (just depending on how many you have to do, I usually use the same about of oil & powders & 1/2 that amount in rubbing alcohol) & start scrubbing. To clean it u wash with dish soap & rubbing alcohol, if still too greasy try vinegar... I know this part is kinds crazy & hit or miss (for me at least.) There's a ton of recipes for homemade "too gone" online I am still trying to find the right one. Some totally work on one jwr & some O